several questions

I have a few questions I would like to ask, I hope someone will
answer me

1. do fat quarters have to be washed first or are they suppose to be
washed when you buy them? I picked up some at walmart yesterday and
am just wondering.

2. I bought a pair of, is it fiskars, rotary cutters, one is the one
size recommended I think it was 45 is that MM, but I just opened them
and noticed they both have oil on the blades, is this normal? Oh, the
reason I got two is one came with a cutting pad I wanted and the pad
was the same price with the rotary cutter as without. The other one
is interchangeable, can be either 60-65 or 40-45, if I could remember
my numbers it would help, it too has oil on it. As far as scissors, I
got a small pair by Fiskars to clip threads with and I inherited my
mother's good sewing scissors and pinking shears, no paper has ever
been cut with these, plus I have a decent pair of scissors and we have
one fairly good pair that we do use when cutting paper, but being my
mother sewed all the time, when we were growing up we learned at a
very early age you do not cut paper with her good scissors.

3. When ironing material that has just been washed and dried, I read
that you do not iron it like clothes (not that I iron clothes, shoot I
hate that job so if I buy something wear it and it turns out needing
ironing it goes in the yard sale bag for the church) that you press
the iron down, then pick it up and press it down again, is this true?
If so it appears do me you would never get a piece of cloth ironed.
Oh, gosh I have to learn to iron.

4. When you are ironing your seams together do you iron both seams to
the same side? I figured you ironed the one seam to one side the
other to the other side, then thinking of this I think that would
weaken the tread. Now I have been reading all the treads seems I can
respond to the off topic ones best. Esp, if it has to do with cooking
and c-pap. But when ironing seams do you not need steam? I have
noticed some of the travel irons you all have mentioned have steam and
some do not. I want to get me a small iron because I am not running
down to the basement every time I need to iron a seam. Which brings
up another question, I am sewing, well I am not, but let's pretend I
am, two squares together, do I iron after I get two together or can I
wait until I get the entire row sewn together to do the ironing?

5. I have yet to figure out how to cut a square, using the ruler, now
you all may laugh at this but I am wondering if it would work if I got
my dad to take some good wood like maybe black walnut and cut me a 4",
5", 6" square, sand it good, making sure he leaves enough that when he
is finished it is the right size, maybe putting some kind of protector
on it and using these to cut the squares. Would this work? If so I
will probably get him to make me a 1", 2", 2.5 and 3 inch one also.

6. I also read somewhere that you never cut more than 4 squares at a
time, is this also true?

I act like I am going to start cutting tomorrow, but I am first going
to try some pre-cut quilt tops before I get into any big time cutting,
because I just am not sure I can do it.

I have to start PT Friday, which is going to be 3 days a week and also
is a 60 mile round trip so I am not so sure I am going to get into any
sewing other than practicing for a while. This has caused my
excitement to dwindle just a little.

I also need a new pair of glasses so will get those, too before I
start any kind of project.

I am sorry I have so many questions at one time, but I actually have a
few more but these are just the ones that came to my mind tonight as I
was putting up my quilting purchases.

Thanks for all your time and effort in answering these questions, I am
sure you all are put out with me, but this is something I really,
really want to do.


Jacqueline
http://www.mountain-breeze.com
Recipes and other fun things

Jacqueline wrote:

1. do fat quarters have to be washed first or are they suppose to be
washed when you buy them? I picked up some at walmart yesterday and
am just wondering.

I wash them when I get them home.

2. I bought a pair of, is it fiskars, rotary cutters, one is the one
size recommended I think it was 45 is that MM, but I just opened them
and noticed they both have oil on the blades, is this normal?

I've never noticed oil, but that's probably
because I don't notice things like that.

3. When ironing material that has just been washed and dried, I read
that you do not iron it like clothes

I iron fabric that has been washed and dried.
I press fabric that I have pieced (sewn)
together.

4. When you are ironing your seams together do you iron both seams to
the same side?

I iron toward the darker side, unless it's
a scrappy top where just ironing toward the
darker side makes no sense because it's every
which way.

5. I have yet to figure out how to cut a square, using the ruler, now
you all may laugh at this but I am wondering if it would work if I got
my dad to take some good wood like maybe black walnut and cut me a 4",
5", 6" square, sand it good, making sure he leaves enough that when he
is finished it is the right size, maybe putting some kind of protector
on it and using these to cut the squares. Would this work? If so I
will probably get him to make me a 1", 2", 2.5 and 3 inch one also.

This is EXACTLY why I have spent so much money
on rulers of every size square! If your dad can
make some for you, all the better. The advantage
of see-through rulers is that I can use my 6.5"
square ruler, for example, to make smaller cuts
of stuff or I can see what I'm cutting if I want
a picture centered (called "fussy cutting").

6. I also read somewhere that you never cut more than 4 squares at a
time, is this also true?

I never cut more than 2 because I am uncoordinated.

Keep the questions coming!

-- Anita --

On Wed, 16 Aug 2006 07:17:49 GMT, Irrational Number
wrote:

Anita,

What is the difference between ironing and pressing? Thanks for all
the answers.


3. When ironing material that has just been washed and dried, I read
that you do not iron it like clothes

I iron fabric that has been washed and dried.
I press fabric that I have pieced (sewn)
together.

Jacqueline
http://www.mountain-breeze.com
Recipes and other fun things

Jacqueline wrote:

On Wed, 16 Aug 2006 07:17:49 GMT, Irrational Number
wrote:

Anita,

What is the difference between ironing and pressing? Thanks for all
the answers.

Oh, you had described it exactly. When ironing,
you move the iron around. When pressing, you lift
the iron so that you do not stretch the fabric. You
don't have to lift very high, though. I don't know
if people press after washing/drying, but I know
you should press seams (instead of ironing them).

-- Anita --

See below - and good luck!


Cheryl & the Cats
_ _ _ _ _ _
( Y ) ( Y ) ( Y )
~ ~ ~
Enness Boofhead Donut
Now in hibernation with a wake-up call for Spring!
http://community.webshots.com/user/witchofthewest
catsatararatATyahooDOTcomDOTau



"Jacqueline" wrote in message
...
:I have a few questions I would like to ask, I hope someone
will
: answer me
:
: 1. do fat quarters have to be washed first or are they
suppose to be
: washed when you buy them? I picked up some at walmart
yesterday and
: am just wondering.

This is ausually a cause for great debate between quilters -
to pre-wash or not to pre-wash, that is the question.

I have got to the point where the feel and texture give me a
pretty good idea about the quality of manufacture (and
likely quality of dye) and I go by that. But if I was
making a red and white quilt I would wash everything - the
reds twice! Colours I find run the worst - red, brown,
purple (all have red component). If the quilt is high
contrast lights and darks I might consider it. If the
fabric is cheaper I probably would too.

As a beginner you are safer to wash everything. You will
learn what is safe (or you will get lazy like me LOL
and become prepared to take more risks). I wash pieces
sorted into similar colours in lingerie bags. If you have
some old pillocases they will do. They will also show if a
colour has run. The bags prevent the fabric fraying away to
pulp in the bottom of the machine.

:
: 2. I bought a pair of, is it fiskars, rotary cutters, one
is the one
: size recommended I think it was 45 is that MM, but I just
opened them
: and noticed they both have oil on the blades, is this
normal? Oh, the
: reason I got two is one came with a cutting pad I wanted
and the pad
: was the same price with the rotary cutter as without. The
other one
: is interchangeable, can be either 60-65 or 40-45, if I
could remember
: my numbers it would help, it too has oil on it. As far as
scissors, I
: got a small pair by Fiskars to clip threads with and I
inherited my
: mother's good sewing scissors and pinking shears, no paper
has ever
: been cut with these, plus I have a decent pair of scissors
and we have
: one fairly good pair that we do use when cutting paper,
but being my
: mother sewed all the time, when we were growing up we
learned at a
: very early age you do not cut paper with her good
scissors.

Standard size cutters are 18mm, 28mm, 45mm, and 60mm. The
oil is a protective lubricant. I usually wipe the new
blades with a tissue (watch those razor sharp edges!) to
avoid the possibility of staining fabric.

:
: 3. When ironing material that has just been washed and
dried, I read
: that you do not iron it like clothes (not that I iron
clothes, shoot I
: hate that job so if I buy something wear it and it turns
out needing
: ironing it goes in the yard sale bag for the church) that
you press
: the iron down, then pick it up and press it down again, is
this true?
: If so it appears do me you would never get a piece of
cloth ironed.
: Oh, gosh I have to learn to iron.

Ironing (swiping the iron across) is for fabric pieces.
Pressing is for pieced blocks or sections of blocks, and
avoids the possibility of stretching / distorting the
pieces.

Warning - if you cut a lot of pieces and they get creased
before you get to assembling your blocks - DO NOT press them
unless you cannot avoid this, and then be very careful not
to distort the cut shape and size. Beginners are often
tempted to iron their patchwork to death.

:
: 4. When you are ironing your seams together do you iron
both seams to
: the same side? I figured you ironed the one seam to one
side the
: other to the other side, then thinking of this I think
that would
: weaken the tread. Now I have been reading all the treads
seems I can
: respond to the off topic ones best. Esp, if it has to do
with cooking
: and c-pap. But when ironing seams do you not need steam?
I have
: noticed some of the travel irons you all have mentioned
have steam and
: some do not. I want to get me a small iron because I am
not running
: down to the basement every time I need to iron a seam.
Which brings
: up another question, I am sewing, well I am not, but let's
pretend I
: am, two squares together, do I iron after I get two
together or can I
: wait until I get the entire row sewn together to do the
ironing?

Think pressing instead of ironing.

To press seam allowances to one side or open is another
debatable point. I generally prefer open seams but this is
not possible on some blocks. It is also not possible with
anything that is sewn onto a foundation. However, the
traditional "rule" is press to one side, usually to the
darker fabric. This started from the days of handsewn seams
when finger pressing seams to one side minimised the
pressure put on seams / threads. With modern quality
threads and sewing machines I do not find it necessary to do
this.

When I teach beginners I have them make one set of
four-patch blocks with seams pressed to one side, and
another set with seams pressed open. This shows them the
advantages and disadvantages of each method. Then they can
make an informed decision on which way to go. But normally
you would treat all seams in a quilt in a similar manner.

:
: 5. I have yet to figure out how to cut a square, using
the ruler, now
: you all may laugh at this but I am wondering if it would
work if I got
: my dad to take some good wood like maybe black walnut and
cut me a 4",
: 5", 6" square, sand it good, making sure he leaves enough
that when he
: is finished it is the right size, maybe putting some kind
of protector
: on it and using these to cut the squares. Would this
work? If so I
: will probably get him to make me a 1", 2", 2.5 and 3 inch
one also.

Trust me - a sharp cutter will slice bits of even hardwood
rulers, thereby ruining the ruler and the blade. Steel
rulers are also not suitable as they wear blades. And you
can't see thru wood or steel. The great advantage to the
perspex rulers you see in shops is that you can see through
them to line up edges correctly. You don't need a lot of
rulers to begin with. For years I had only one - 6 1/2" X
24". I now have a vast array of specialty rulers and
templates (all perspex) but the basic ruler is still the
most used item. A good second ruler is a 6 1/2" X 12"
ruler.

:
: 6. I also read somewhere that you never cut more than 4
squares at a
: time, is this also true?

I start beginners cutting folded fabric (two layers at a
time). You need to get used to handling your cutter and
ruler before you go stacking up layers of fabric. If I am
doing something basic (say - 4" squares) I have been known
to cut up to 8 layers at once. But the more layers the
greater the chance for fabric slippage and error, and each
error is multiplied by the number of layers of fabric.

Most cutting is done on fabric folded with the selvages
together. Your fabric is about 45" wide so the folded
fabric will be about 22-23" - hence the popularity of the
24" ruler for cutting. It is just wider then the folded
fabric.

Remember when cutting folded fabric to align your ruler
against the fold of fabric. If you don't cut perpendicular
(90deg) to the fold, when you open the strip you will have a
V shape instead of a long straight strip. You may need to
trim your fabric to get a straight perpendicular edge before
cutting your strips too.

Always put your ruler on the piece of fabric you want to
keep. So to get a straight edge, put the ruler on the big
piece you want to cut from, and have just the bit you want
to trim off extended out from the edge of the ruler. This
is so that if your blade "wanders" you are not cutting
further into your fabric.

When you want to cut strips, you put your ruler onto the
strip you want to keep and have the rest of your fabric
extending beyond the ruler. Then if your blade slips by
1/4" you still have your strip (say, 4" wide) intact, and
you only have to trim the 1/4" mistake off the rest of the
fabric to get another straight edge to cut from. If you
"slipped" into your strip of fabric, you would have to cut
another 4" strip.

Keep the ruler between you and the blade is also a good
"rule". Try cutting strips across (side to side) and away
from you to see which is more comfortable, and cut in long
steady stroke. DO NOT saw your fabric or push down so hard
that your knuckles glow white and you arms feel as if they
are being dislocated. If your wrist is straight, and you
apply moderate pressure with a sharp blade on a bench that
is the right height for you - you should not find cutting
hard work.

Cutting lots of layers will also wear your blade and make
you arms/shoulders ache so . . . . . . stick to single fold
/ two layers for now.

:
: I act like I am going to start cutting tomorrow, but I am
first going
: to try some pre-cut quilt tops before I get into any big
time cutting,
: because I just am not sure I can do it.

Get some high contrast cheap material and cut strips about
2-3" wide. Cross cut these into squares and practise sewing
small pieces together. This is NOT a waste of time. You
will learn how to handle your cutter and ruler as well.

Then sew two contrasting strips together and cross cut them
the same width as the original strips. Sew pairs together
to get four-patch blocks. This will teach you about
matching seams. Measure your finished four-patch blocks to
check the accuracy of your seams. This is also a good time
to compare pressing seams open or to one side.

:
: I have to start PT Friday, which is going to be 3 days a
week and also
: is a 60 mile round trip so I am not so sure I am going to
get into any
: sewing other than practicing for a while. This has caused
my
: excitement to dwindle just a little.
:
: I also need a new pair of glasses so will get those, too
before I
: start any kind of project.

Definitely get your glasses before starting LOL Much
safer for fingers, and definitely will give more accurate
results



Try to get hold of a little book called Rx for Quilters. It
is a paper back written by a doctor who happens to also be a
quilter. Easy to read in one sitting, it has lots of tips
for painless quilting.
http://tinyurl.com/rnfbn

:
: I am sorry I have so many questions at one time, but I
actually have a
: few more but these are just the ones that came to my mind
tonight as I
: was putting up my quilting purchases.
:
: Thanks for all your time and effort in answering these
questions, I am
: sure you all are put out with me, but this is something I
really,
: really want to do.
:
:
: Jacqueline
: http://www.mountain-breeze.com
: Recipes and other fun things

I'll give you some answers for numbers 3 and 4. Jacqueline g

When ironing a piece of cloth you have bought and washed/dried, I iron
that just like clothes, though I try to move the iron along the grain.
(Sounds like your father is a woodworker, you can ask him about planing
*with* the grain). You are trying all the time not to distort the
straightness of the grain. Iron along the selvage and then keep to that
direction as nearly as you can. If you have no selvage, then just go
with the grain as best you can see it. Use steam for the large pieces.

However, pressing your piecing - seams etc - does mean pressing: down
and then up with no sideways motion. If you take a straight piece of
scrap fabric and press and then move around and sideways, you will show
yourself what the iron can do. Steam will do it much more than a dry
iron, of course.

I press with a dry iron while I am piecing. If you make a mistake with
pressing, a dry iron press can be corrected more easily than a steam
iron press. When I have finished a section, I will go to my big iron
and board and press with steam. Still no moving around, but the steam
will finalise the pressing.

Before you press any seam, press the seam as you take it from the
machine , i.e. with the pieces still together. This reduces the bulk of
that seam, and sets the thread slightly more into the fabric.

General advice is to press seams to one side - to the dark side where
possible, so that you don't get shadowing. However this is not always
practicable. You can press to either side. You can also press the
seams open. You will be using a machine, so pressing open will be fine.
Eventually, I think you will find that there will be some situations
where side pressing is better, and some where 'open' suits better.
When you are pressing the seam open, start it off with your fingers.
When pressing to the side, you will get a better result if you press
from the right side. If you press from the back, it is very possible
that you will get a tiny 'pleat' alongside the seam - try it and see!
Pressing from the top avoids this.

When you are sewing your squares together, sew pairs together first,
then those pairs to fours, and those fours to eights etc. It is better
not to go from one to two to three to four to five etc. Wouldn't matter
with your simple squares, but it will later on when you are making
blocks. When you are sewing your rows, press the seams of one row in
one direction and the seams of the next row in the opposite direction.
When you then come to put the rows together, you will find that the
seams 'nest' nicely together and help you match your corners.

I'm quite sure that's enough for now!!
..

In message , Jacqueline
writes
I have a few questions I would like to ask, I hope someone will
answer me

1. do fat quarters have to be washed first or are they suppose to be
washed when you buy them? I picked up some at walmart yesterday and
am just wondering.

2. I bought a pair of, is it fiskars, rotary cutters, one is the one
size recommended I think it was 45 is that MM, but I just opened them
and noticed they both have oil on the blades, is this normal? Oh, the
reason I got two is one came with a cutting pad I wanted and the pad
was the same price with the rotary cutter as without. The other one
is interchangeable, can be either 60-65 or 40-45, if I could remember
my numbers it would help, it too has oil on it. As far as scissors, I
got a small pair by Fiskars to clip threads with and I inherited my
mother's good sewing scissors and pinking shears, no paper has ever
been cut with these, plus I have a decent pair of scissors and we have
one fairly good pair that we do use when cutting paper, but being my
mother sewed all the time, when we were growing up we learned at a
very early age you do not cut paper with her good scissors.

3. When ironing material that has just been washed and dried, I read
that you do not iron it like clothes (not that I iron clothes, shoot I
hate that job so if I buy something wear it and it turns out needing
ironing it goes in the yard sale bag for the church) that you press
the iron down, then pick it up and press it down again, is this true?
If so it appears do me you would never get a piece of cloth ironed.
Oh, gosh I have to learn to iron.

4. When you are ironing your seams together do you iron both seams to
the same side? I figured you ironed the one seam to one side the
other to the other side, then thinking of this I think that would
weaken the tread. Now I have been reading all the treads seems I can
respond to the off topic ones best. Esp, if it has to do with cooking
and c-pap. But when ironing seams do you not need steam? I have
noticed some of the travel irons you all have mentioned have steam and
some do not. I want to get me a small iron because I am not running
down to the basement every time I need to iron a seam. Which brings
up another question, I am sewing, well I am not, but let's pretend I
am, two squares together, do I iron after I get two together or can I
wait until I get the entire row sewn together to do the ironing?

5. I have yet to figure out how to cut a square, using the ruler, now
you all may laugh at this but I am wondering if it would work if I got
my dad to take some good wood like maybe black walnut and cut me a 4",
5", 6" square, sand it good, making sure he leaves enough that when he
is finished it is the right size, maybe putting some kind of protector
on it and using these to cut the squares. Would this work? If so I
will probably get him to make me a 1", 2", 2.5 and 3 inch one also.

6. I also read somewhere that you never cut more than 4 squares at a
time, is this also true?

I act like I am going to start cutting tomorrow, but I am first going
to try some pre-cut quilt tops before I get into any big time cutting,
because I just am not sure I can do it.

I have to start PT Friday, which is going to be 3 days a week and also
is a 60 mile round trip so I am not so sure I am going to get into any
sewing other than practicing for a while. This has caused my
excitement to dwindle just a little.

I also need a new pair of glasses so will get those, too before I
start any kind of project.

I am sorry I have so many questions at one time, but I actually have a
few more but these are just the ones that came to my mind tonight as I
was putting up my quilting purchases.

Thanks for all your time and effort in answering these questions, I am
sure you all are put out with me, but this is something I really,
really want to do.


Jacqueline
http://www.mountain-breeze.com
Recipes and other fun things

--
Best Regards
pat on the hill

On Wed, 16 Aug 2006 03:06:04 -0400, Jacqueline
wrote:

...but I just opened them
and noticed they both have oil on the blades, is this normal?

Yes, the oil on the blades keeps them from rusting before
use. You might find that replacement blades have the same
thing. I just wipe mine, *carefully* with a damp cloth.

Nancy in NS
http://community.webshots.com/user/loves2quilt

Hello Jacqueline,


Jacqueline wrote:
I have a few questions I would like to ask, I hope someone will
answer me

1. do fat quarters have to be washed first or are they suppose to be
washed when you buy them? I picked up some at walmart yesterday and
am just wondering.

I never wash fabrics first unless I buy them from a garage sale or
something like that.

2. I bought a pair of, is it fiskars, rotary cutters, one is the one
size recommended I think it was 45 is that MM, but I just opened them
and noticed they both have oil on the blades, is this normal? Oh, the
reason I got two is one came with a cutting pad I wanted and the pad
was the same price with the rotary cutter as without. The other one
is interchangeable, can be either 60-65 or 40-45, if I could remember
my numbers it would help, it too has oil on it. As far as scissors, I
got a small pair by Fiskars to clip threads with and I inherited my
mother's good sewing scissors and pinking shears, no paper has ever
been cut with these, plus I have a decent pair of scissors and we have
one fairly good pair that we do use when cutting paper, but being my
mother sewed all the time, when we were growing up we learned at a
very early age you do not cut paper with her good scissors.
The oil is normal to separate blades in the package


3. When ironing material that has just been washed and dried, I read
that you do not iron it like clothes (not that I iron clothes, shoot I
hate that job so if I buy something wear it and it turns out needing
ironing it goes in the yard sale bag for the church) that you press
the iron down, then pick it up and press it down again, is this true?
If so it appears do me you would never get a piece of cloth ironed.
Oh, gosh I have to learn to iron.
You may as well bring your ironing board and iron upstairs. Pressing
seams is one of the most important parts of making any quilt. You will
become best friends with your iron as you go along. Each part as it is
sewn together will need pressed then squared up using your ruler to be
as exact in measurement as possible to be sewn to the next pieces.

4. When you are ironing your seams together do you iron both seams to
the same side? I figured you ironed the one seam to one side the
other to the other side, then thinking of this I think that would
weaken the tread. Now I have been reading all the treads seems I can
respond to the off topic ones best. Esp, if it has to do with cooking
and c-pap. But when ironing seams do you not need steam? I have
noticed some of the travel irons you all have mentioned have steam and
some do not. I want to get me a small iron because I am not running
down to the basement every time I need to iron a seam. Which brings
up another question, I am sewing, well I am not, but let's pretend I
am, two squares together, do I iron after I get two together or can I
wait until I get the entire row sewn together to do the ironing?

In most instances your seams are pressed together. Seams are only 1/4"
so when they are put together against another seam one set will go one
way and the other the other way. Generally speaking you should always
press to the darker fabrics.

5. I have yet to figure out how to cut a square, using the ruler, now
you all may laugh at this but I am wondering if it would work if I got
my dad to take some good wood like maybe black walnut and cut me a 4",
5", 6" square, sand it good, making sure he leaves enough that when he
is finished it is the right size, maybe putting some kind of protector
on it and using these to cut the squares. Would this work? If so I
will probably get him to make me a 1", 2", 2.5 and 3 inch one also.

Making any type of template, especially what you are talking about
will defeat the purpose of you acrylic ruler. Your ruler is marked so
that you can get perfect alignment of your pieces then finished blocks.
Try not to over think this one.
6. I also read somewhere that you never cut more than 4 squares at a
time, is this also true?

If I only cut 4 squares at a time I would never get a quilt done. Strip
cutting is the only way to go and depending on how many layers of
fabric you have in your strip pile will determine just how many squares
you cut at a time.

Thanks for all your time and effort in answering these questions, I am
sure you all are put out with me, but this is something I really,
really want to do.
Quilting questions are always fun.
julia

On Wed, 16 Aug 2006 03:06:04 -0400, Jacqueline
wrote:

I have a few questions I would like to ask, I hope someone will
answer me

1. do fat quarters have to be washed first or are they suppose to be
washed when you buy them? I picked up some at walmart yesterday and
am just wondering.

I wash all new fabrics before using them. I quickly hand wash all the
fat quarters separately by putting them each into a container with a
tight fitting lid, add some water and a drop or two of soap, put on
lid and shake container. Repeat the process without soap for rinsing.
Drying them is quick too because they dry while I press them.

3. When ironing material that has just been washed and dried, I read
that you do not iron it like clothes (not that I iron clothes, shoot I
hate that job so if I buy something wear it and it turns out needing
ironing it goes in the yard sale bag for the church) that you press
the iron down, then pick it up and press it down again, is this true?
If so it appears do me you would never get a piece of cloth ironed.
Oh, gosh I have to learn to iron.

Yes, just press down lightly, lift the iron and move it to the next
spot. Moving the iron while applying downward pressure can stretch
the fabric out of shape and you don't want to distort your quilting
fabric that way because it will make your blocks all wonky.

4. When you are ironing your seams together do you iron both seams to
the same side? I figured you ironed the one seam to one side the
other to the other side, then thinking of this I think that would
weaken the thread.

Most of the time it is best to press your seams to one side only.

But when ironing seams do you not need steam? I have
noticed some of the travel irons you all have mentioned have steam and
some do not. I want to get me a small iron because I am not running
down to the basement every time I need to iron a seam.

Some people prefer steam, some do not. Some people even use a small
piece of wood dowel or a fingernail to finger press short seams down
quickly.

Which brings
up another question, I am sewing, well I am not, but let's pretend I
am, two squares together, do I iron after I get two together or can I
wait until I get the entire row sewn together to do the ironing?

If you are sewing squares in one long row you could wait until the end
of the row and press all seams at once, but if you are making pieced
blocks it is better to press each seam right after you sew it.

5. I have yet to figure out how to cut a square, using the ruler, now
you all may laugh at this but I am wondering if it would work if I got
my dad to take some good wood like maybe black walnut and cut me a 4",
5", 6" square, sand it good, making sure he leaves enough that when he
is finished it is the right size, maybe putting some kind of protector
on it and using these to cut the squares. Would this work? If so I
will probably get him to make me a 1", 2", 2.5 and 3 inch one also.

You can buy plastic template material and make square templates.

6. I also read somewhere that you never cut more than 4 squares at a
time, is this also true?

Cut through 4 thicknesses of fabric at one time only. The more
thickness of material you have, the more likely the stack will slip
while you are cutting resulting in pieces that are not square or not
the proper size.

I act like I am going to start cutting tomorrow, but I am first going
to try some pre-cut quilt tops before I get into any big time cutting,
because I just am not sure I can do it.

I have to start PT Friday, which is going to be 3 days a week and also
is a 60 mile round trip so I am not so sure I am going to get into any
sewing other than practicing for a while. This has caused my
excitement to dwindle just a little.

I also need a new pair of glasses so will get those, too before I
start any kind of project.

I am sorry I have so many questions at one time, but I actually have a
few more but these are just the ones that came to my mind tonight as I
was putting up my quilting purchases.

Thanks for all your time and effort in answering these questions, I am
sure you all are put out with me, but this is something I really,
really want to do.


Jacqueline
http://www.mountain-breeze.com
Recipes and other fun things
Debra in VA
See my quilts at
http://community.webshots.com/user/debplayshere

On Wed, 16 Aug 2006 03:06:04 -0400, Jacqueline
wrote:

5. I have yet to figure out how to cut a square, using the ruler, now
you all may laugh at this but I am wondering if it would work if I got
my dad to take some good wood like maybe black walnut and cut me a 4",
5", 6" square, sand it good, making sure he leaves enough that when he
is finished it is the right size, maybe putting some kind of protector
on it and using these to cut the squares. Would this work? If so I
will probably get him to make me a 1", 2", 2.5 and 3 inch one also.
Jacqueline

First square up the end of your fabric from one selvage to the other
one. Next measure the width of one block, let's say 6". Start at one
selvage, measure from the cut edge of the fabric 6" and mark it. Move
to another spot, about the middle of the fabric, and measure 6" from
the cut edge and mark again, repeat near the other selvage. (You may
have to make more than three markings depending on the length of your
ruler.) Now lay the ruler so the edge connects 2 or more markings and
rotary cut one very long 6" wide strip. (You may have to slide your
ruler to cut completely across the whole piece of fabric.) Now take
the 6" wide strip and measure 6" down the length and cut across the
strip to make one 6" square. Repeat measuring and cutting until you
get to the other end of the strip and you will have many 6" squares.
The same process works for all sizes of squares.

Note: I've tried to fold the fabric and rotary cut strips, but I just
end up with a bend at the middle no matter how careful I am, so I
prefer to cut through only one layer of fabric at a time.
Debra in VA
See my quilts at
http://community.webshots.com/user/debplayshere