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#1
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studio design ideas
Hi,
We are about to renovate the house and double garage will become my studio. Now is my chance to write a wish list for the studio and I am asking for advice - what would you recommend as a good or bad ideas? Particularly in areas of waste(clay & glaze) management,sink, glaze spray area...Studio will have plenty of natural light, separate glazing/sink area and big door to outside. I have searched www for sink designs (clay trap) but wasn't successful so far. Thanks in advance, Andrea |
#2
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I have searched www for sink designs (clay trap) but wasn't successful so
far. I found some notes on this in www.ceramicsmonthly.com under Tip 15: building a Sink Trap. Full description, but no diagram, unfortunately! -- Jake Loddington POULTON-LE-FYLDE Lancashire England |
#3
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Do a Google search on Gleco Trap
-- Wayne Seidl Key West, Florida, USA North America, Terra Latitude 81.45W, Longitude 24.33N Elevation 3.1 feet (1m) "Jake Loddington" wrote in message ... I have searched www for sink designs (clay trap) but wasn't successful so far. I found some notes on this in www.ceramicsmonthly.com under Tip 15: building a Sink Trap. Full description, but no diagram, unfortunately! -- Jake Loddington POULTON-LE-FYLDE Lancashire England |
#4
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Thank you!!!
Andrea "wayne" wrote in message . .. Do a Google search on Gleco Trap -- Wayne Seidl Key West, Florida, USA North America, Terra Latitude 81.45W, Longitude 24.33N Elevation 3.1 feet (1m) "Jake Loddington" wrote in message ... I have searched www for sink designs (clay trap) but wasn't successful so far. I found some notes on this in www.ceramicsmonthly.com under Tip 15: building a Sink Trap. Full description, but no diagram, unfortunately! -- Jake Loddington POULTON-LE-FYLDE Lancashire England |
#5
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I have made several sink traps over time and have the odd drawing I
could mail out (JPEGs) to anyone interested. Contact me privately at steve at bathpotters dot co dot uk Steve Bath UK In article , Jake Loddington writes I have searched www for sink designs (clay trap) but wasn't successful so far. I found some notes on this in www.ceramicsmonthly.com under Tip 15: building a Sink Trap. Full description, but no diagram, unfortunately! -- Steve Mills Bath UK |
#6
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We used an old tub that had a wood (I would use plastic if I were making it
now) divider down the middle. We would pore our dirty water buckets on the non-drain side of the tub. The partition was lower than the sides of the tub so that when the water was high enough it would overflow into the drain side but we never used it that way. When the clay was settled and the top water was clean we would simply bucket it over to the drain side. Real easy, quick and safe. If you could get a double sink made of steel from a salvage yard and then drill holes in the dividing section about 2/3rds the way up (assuming the type I have in mind that has a solid sheet of steel between what is essentially one sink with two drains). Close the drain on the side you will pore your dirty water (in fact have the drain from this side NOT go into your pipes but be able to go to a bucket under the sink when you want to clean the sink out). I used an old garage metal storage cupboard for my damp closet. I used silicon to 'glue' down some plastic on the bottom and sides to make it more air tight and to keep the cabinet from rusting out. Plastic closets from Target or the like would work but I don't think they hold as much weight. I also picked up some metal stand alone shelving at a garage sale. I moved the bottom shelf up to be above bucket height so I can just slide my buckets of glaze or clay recycling under the shelves. I know you said that you want things all nice and new but I think that it still works to have the under part of your shelves clear to easily pull heavy buckets in and out of. If you get a new cabinet for your damp closet, I would still recommend the medal ones since they do hold more weight and I would still suggest lining them with heavy plastic (the stuff you get for covering floors when you paint) both to keep the moisture in and to keep the cabinet from rusting. I have forgotten a piece I left in the closet for weeks, rediscovered it (hidden on top) and it was still workable. I read in Clayart to glue little bathroom cups upside down in you frame for a wedging board to make a kind of upside down egg carton that gives you a strong board but makes it lighter. I think you would need about an inch of plaster to be around each cup in all dimensions. I'm still using an old one I have but some day..... http://lsv.ceramics.org/scripts/wa.e...AYART&P=R52545 For my ware boards I cut up leftover pieces of sheetrock I still in my garage and basement because I could not stand to throw it out. I wrapped the edges in ducktape and have no worry about pieces of the board getting in my clay. I would not use these in a studio with beginning students but our University's studio does and there has not yet been a problem. http://sondahl.com/#pottery http://lakesidepottery.com/Pages/Tips.html http://lsv.ceramics.org/scripts/wa.exe?S1=clayart "Jake Loddington" wrote in message ... I have searched www for sink designs (clay trap) but wasn't successful so far. I found some notes on this in www.ceramicsmonthly.com under Tip 15: building a Sink Trap. Full description, but no diagram, unfortunately! -- Jake Loddington POULTON-LE-FYLDE Lancashire England |
#7
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Thank you so much for this!! As bathroom is being renovated too now I know
what to do with the old bath! I like reusing rather than throwing out ( I suspect most potters do). "W_D_Great_Divider" wrote in message ... We used an old tub that had a wood (I would use plastic if I were making it now) divider down the middle. We would pore our dirty water buckets on the non-drain side of the tub. The partition was lower than the sides of the tub so that when the water was high enough it would overflow into the drain side but we never used it that way. When the clay was settled and the top water was clean we would simply bucket it over to the drain side. Real easy, quick and safe. If you could get a double sink made of steel from a salvage yard and then drill holes in the dividing section about 2/3rds the way up (assuming the type I have in mind that has a solid sheet of steel between what is essentially one sink with two drains). Close the drain on the side you will pore your dirty water (in fact have the drain from this side NOT go into your pipes but be able to go to a bucket under the sink when you want to clean the sink out). I used an old garage metal storage cupboard for my damp closet. I used silicon to 'glue' down some plastic on the bottom and sides to make it more air tight and to keep the cabinet from rusting out. Plastic closets from Target or the like would work but I don't think they hold as much weight. I also picked up some metal stand alone shelving at a garage sale. I moved the bottom shelf up to be above bucket height so I can just slide my buckets of glaze or clay recycling under the shelves. I know you said that you want things all nice and new but I think that it still works to have the under part of your shelves clear to easily pull heavy buckets in and out of. If you get a new cabinet for your damp closet, I would still recommend the medal ones since they do hold more weight and I would still suggest lining them with heavy plastic (the stuff you get for covering floors when you paint) both to keep the moisture in and to keep the cabinet from rusting. I have forgotten a piece I left in the closet for weeks, rediscovered it (hidden on top) and it was still workable. I read in Clayart to glue little bathroom cups upside down in you frame for a wedging board to make a kind of upside down egg carton that gives you a strong board but makes it lighter. I think you would need about an inch of plaster to be around each cup in all dimensions. I'm still using an old one I have but some day..... http://lsv.ceramics.org/scripts/wa.e...AYART&P=R52545 For my ware boards I cut up leftover pieces of sheetrock I still in my garage and basement because I could not stand to throw it out. I wrapped the edges in ducktape and have no worry about pieces of the board getting in my clay. I would not use these in a studio with beginning students but our University's studio does and there has not yet been a problem. http://sondahl.com/#pottery http://lakesidepottery.com/Pages/Tips.html http://lsv.ceramics.org/scripts/wa.exe?S1=clayart "Jake Loddington" wrote in message ... I have searched www for sink designs (clay trap) but wasn't successful so far. I found some notes on this in www.ceramicsmonthly.com under Tip 15: building a Sink Trap. Full description, but no diagram, unfortunately! -- Jake Loddington POULTON-LE-FYLDE Lancashire England |
#8
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whatever size table you want, add 8 inches all around.
cover the table completely before using it with canvas-curtain non stretch material. try to keep everything off the floor to hose the shop out once in a while. use DEEP shelves! like 16 to 18 inches deep at least. use shelving that isn't permanent in the height settings ~ you'll want to adjust them from time to time. you might actually get by just well with no sink or running water. use the garden hose outside instead. see ya steve Subject: studio design ideas From: "A&V" Date: 10/12/2004 12:36 AM Pacific Daylight Time Message-id: Hi, We are about to renovate the house and double garage will become my studio. Now is my chance to write a wish list for the studio and I am asking for advice - what would you recommend as a good or bad ideas? Particularly in areas of waste(clay & glaze) management,sink, glaze spray area...Studio will have plenty of natural light, separate glazing/sink area and big door to outside. I have searched www for sink designs (clay trap) but wasn't successful so far. Thanks in advance, Andrea steve graber |
#9
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Hi Steve,
Thanks for your comments. Do you find that canvas tables collect dust? How do you clean them? My currant studio doesn't have running water now, and I am looking forward to the luxury of cold and hot water!!! ( my hands seem to be in the buckets forever ) Andrea "Slgraber" wrote in message ... whatever size table you want, add 8 inches all around. cover the table completely before using it with canvas-curtain non stretch material. try to keep everything off the floor to hose the shop out once in a while. use DEEP shelves! like 16 to 18 inches deep at least. use shelving that isn't permanent in the height settings ~ you'll want to adjust them from time to time. you might actually get by just well with no sink or running water. use the garden hose outside instead. see ya steve Subject: studio design ideas From: "A&V" Date: 10/12/2004 12:36 AM Pacific Daylight Time Message-id: Hi, We are about to renovate the house and double garage will become my studio. Now is my chance to write a wish list for the studio and I am asking for advice - what would you recommend as a good or bad ideas? Particularly in areas of waste(clay & glaze) management,sink, glaze spray area...Studio will have plenty of natural light, separate glazing/sink area and big door to outside. I have searched www for sink designs (clay trap) but wasn't successful so far. Thanks in advance, Andrea steve graber |
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