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#11
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uneven knit and purl rows
Douglas Paulley wrote:
I asume that "in the round" would only work for other projects with specific patterns, not like I have been doing? In the round, or circular knitting, is a method of producing things that are tubular in a tubular fashion: you knit a tube for the sweater body, knit two tubes for the arms, put them on a single needle and do the yoke shaping. Presto a sweater - with no purling at all if you're disinclined to purl. One also knits socks in the round. It's a handy skill to have. |
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#12
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uneven knit and purl rows
On Tue, 21 Aug 2007 20:48:50 GMT, "Aaron Lewis"
wrote: Your change in tension is every third row, hiya, it's probably my poor picture taking, but from the actual item, it is very definitely every second row, not every third so it is not just knitting differently than purling. With the two cables crossed 3 rows and 8 stitches apart, I suspect is related to the cables pulling on loose background fabric. If it is wool, block it and all will be well with the world. Blocking works better for wool than for synthetics. For wool, blocking really does make the knitting look more uniform, and can help with getting a better fit. thank you, I will give it a try! Some people around here do not like "blocking" so I do not really block. I wash finished objects because they got dirty while I was knitting them - then I dry them carefully! yes, so do I - I wash in soap flakes (comes several shades lighter!) and then air-dry. thanks very much Doug -- http://www.kingqueen.org.uk remove .lartsspammers to reply by email |
#13
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uneven knit and purl rows
If it is every other row, it is surely a difference in tension between
knitting and purling. Almost everyone has different tensions for knitting and purling. Usually, as I think someone said, the tension is looser on the purl row. If you think this might be the case with your knitting, get needles in a couple of adjacent sizes, and knit a swatch (about 4" x 4") using the larger needle to knit onto (i.e. in your right hand, on the knit rows, if you are right handed) and the smaller needle to purl onto (in your right hand on the purl rows). If this alleviates the problem, hurray, and you'll see how to tweak it if necessary. If it makes the problem worse, try knitting onto the smaller needle and purling onto the larger needle. Good luck, and let us know how it goes. BTW, for future reference, "Continental" style refers to holding the working yarn (the one connected to the ball or skein) in your left hand and using one finger to wrap it around the working needle (the one in your right hand, if you're right-handed). "English-American" style refers to wrapping the yarn with the same hand that holds the working needle (the right hand...) I used to knit English/American; it was much slower, my tension was way looser, and my knit and purl were more different in tension than they are when I knit Continental. Now I prefer to knit in the round so I don't have to purl at all, except for decorative effects. Georgia http://www.georgiamorgan.net/html/knitting.htm "Douglas Paulley" wrote in message ... On Tue, 21 Aug 2007 20:48:50 GMT, "Aaron Lewis" wrote: Your change in tension is every third row, hiya, it's probably my poor picture taking, but from the actual item, it is very definitely every second row, not every third so it is not just knitting differently than purling. With the two cables crossed 3 rows and 8 stitches apart, I suspect is related to the cables pulling on loose background fabric. If it is wool, block it and all will be well with the world. Blocking works better for wool than for synthetics. For wool, blocking really does make the knitting look more uniform, and can help with getting a better fit. thank you, I will give it a try! Some people around here do not like "blocking" so I do not really block. I wash finished objects because they got dirty while I was knitting them - then I dry them carefully! yes, so do I - I wash in soap flakes (comes several shades lighter!) and then air-dry. thanks very much Doug -- http://www.kingqueen.org.uk remove .lartsspammers to reply by email |
#14
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uneven knit and purl rows
I knit sweaters in the round , from the top down ,,,
i strat with the Neck opening and increase in several methods [ depends on the style ] , than when i come to under arms divivde into arm , body arm ,, and knit DOWNWARDS , in Sleeved i decrease in body depends on pattern ,,,, NO SEAMS is the THING !!!! mirjam Douglas Paulley wrote: I asume that "in the round" would only work for other projects with specific patterns, not like I have been doing? In the round, or circular knitting, is a method of producing things that are tubular in a tubular fashion: you knit a tube for the sweater body, knit two tubes for the arms, put them on a single needle and do the yoke shaping. Presto a sweater - with no purling at all if you're disinclined to purl. One also knits socks in the round. It's a handy skill to have. |
#15
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uneven knit and purl rows
On Tue, 21 Aug 2007 17:52:39 -0500, "Georgia"
wrote: If it is every other row, it is surely a difference in tension between knitting and purling. Almost everyone has different tensions for knitting and purling. Usually, as I think someone said, the tension is looser on the purl row. If you think this might be the case with your knitting, get needles in a couple of adjacent sizes, and knit a swatch (about 4" x 4") using the larger needle to knit onto (i.e. in your right hand, on the knit rows, if you are right handed) and the smaller needle to purl onto (in your right hand on the purl rows). If this alleviates the problem, hurray, and you'll see how to tweak it if necessary. If it makes the problem worse, try knitting onto the smaller needle and purling onto the larger needle. Good luck, and let us know how it goes. Thank you. I shall buy knitting needles. BTW, for future reference, "Continental" style refers to holding the working yarn (the one connected to the ball or skein) in your left hand and using one finger to wrap it around the working needle (the one in your right hand, if you're right-handed). Ah right, yes I have seen people doing that, I am always awed by their dexterity grin I am very much a beginner; so far, I have knitted two baby cardigans, a baby hat and two sets of baby mittens. Previously (15 years ago) I knitted half a T-shirt... and that's been it. I feel like I still have a lot to learn! Thanks again Doug -- http://www.kingqueen.org.uk remove .lartsspammers to reply by email |
#16
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uneven knit and purl rows
I'm having problems with my knitting.
I've just finished a matinee jacket which is all very nice, but there's a definite 2 row pattern going on. One row is definitely more prominent than the other. I've done a piccy: http://www.kingqueen.org.uk/knitting.jpg Hello- That looks like what's called "rowing out" (unless I can't see the picture clearly on my small screen). As the other posters mentioned, it's usually caused by tension problems where your purl stitch and knit stitches have different tension. The easier way to fix it (besides purling with a smaller needle) is to knit Combination style. That's what Annie Modesitt suggests. A quick info page can be found he http://www.grumperina.com/comboknitbackground.htm I find knitting with two different size needles to just end up confusing me. Play with English or Continental style knitting, or Combination (eastern un-crossed is what I believe the technical term for how I knit is) and see what works best. Knit small swatches and see what is best to start off -- and which feels easiest to work to improve. Once you've been knitting for awhile you almost completely forget about it until you go to do something really picky (like a Master Knitting swatch) and suddenly it's all you can see! Or, of course, you knit an entire project in reverse stockinette or garter -- that really makes it stand out more. Joseph |
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