uneven knit and purl rows

Douglas Paulley wrote:
I asume that
"in the round" would only work for other projects with specific
patterns, not like I have been doing?


In the round, or circular knitting, is a method of producing things that
are tubular in a tubular fashion: you knit a tube for the sweater body,
knit two tubes for the arms, put them on a single needle and do the yoke
shaping. Presto a sweater - with no purling at all if you're
disinclined to purl.

One also knits socks in the round. It's a handy skill to have.

On Tue, 21 Aug 2007 20:48:50 GMT, "Aaron Lewis"
wrote:

Your change in tension is every third row,

hiya,

it's probably my poor picture taking, but from the actual item, it is
very definitely every second row, not every third

so it is not just knitting
differently than purling. With the two cables crossed 3 rows and 8 stitches
apart, I suspect is related to the cables pulling on loose background
fabric. If it is wool, block it and all will be well with the world.

Blocking works better for wool than for synthetics. For wool, blocking
really does make the knitting look more uniform, and can help with getting a
better fit.

thank you, I will give it a try!

Some people around here do not like "blocking" so I do not really block. I
wash finished objects because they got dirty while I was knitting them -
then I dry them carefully!

yes, so do I - I wash in soap flakes (comes several shades lighter!)
and then air-dry.

thanks very much

Doug

--
http://www.kingqueen.org.uk
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If it is every other row, it is surely a difference in tension between
knitting and purling. Almost everyone has different tensions for knitting
and purling. Usually, as I think someone said, the tension is looser on the
purl row. If you think this might be the case with your knitting, get
needles in a couple of adjacent sizes, and knit a swatch (about 4" x 4")
using the larger needle to knit onto (i.e. in your right hand, on the knit
rows, if you are right handed) and the smaller needle to purl onto (in your
right hand on the purl rows). If this alleviates the problem, hurray, and
you'll see how to tweak it if necessary. If it makes the problem worse, try
knitting onto the smaller needle and purling onto the larger needle.

Good luck, and let us know how it goes.

BTW, for future reference, "Continental" style refers to holding the working
yarn (the one connected to the ball or skein) in your left hand and using
one finger to wrap it around the working needle (the one in your right hand,
if you're right-handed). "English-American" style refers to wrapping the
yarn with the same hand that holds the working needle (the right hand...)
I used to knit English/American; it was much slower, my tension was way
looser, and my knit and purl were more different in tension than they are
when I knit Continental. Now I prefer to knit in the round so I don't have
to purl at all, except for decorative effects.

Georgia
http://www.georgiamorgan.net/html/knitting.htm

"Douglas Paulley" wrote in
message ...
On Tue, 21 Aug 2007 20:48:50 GMT, "Aaron Lewis"
wrote:

Your change in tension is every third row,

hiya,

it's probably my poor picture taking, but from the actual item, it is
very definitely every second row, not every third

so it is not just knitting
differently than purling. With the two cables crossed 3 rows and 8
stitches
apart, I suspect is related to the cables pulling on loose background
fabric. If it is wool, block it and all will be well with the world.

Blocking works better for wool than for synthetics. For wool, blocking
really does make the knitting look more uniform, and can help with
getting a
better fit.

thank you, I will give it a try!

Some people around here do not like "blocking" so I do not really block.
I
wash finished objects because they got dirty while I was knitting them -
then I dry them carefully!

yes, so do I - I wash in soap flakes (comes several shades lighter!)
and then air-dry.

thanks very much

Doug

--
http://www.kingqueen.org.uk
remove .lartsspammers to reply by email

I knit sweaters in the round , from the top down ,,,
i strat with the Neck opening and increase in several methods
[ depends on the style ] , than when i come to under arms divivde
into arm , body arm ,, and knit DOWNWARDS , in Sleeved i decrease in
body depends on pattern ,,,,
NO SEAMS is the THING !!!!
mirjam

Douglas Paulley wrote:
I asume that
"in the round" would only work for other projects with specific
patterns, not like I have been doing?


In the round, or circular knitting, is a method of producing things that
are tubular in a tubular fashion: you knit a tube for the sweater body,
knit two tubes for the arms, put them on a single needle and do the yoke
shaping. Presto a sweater - with no purling at all if you're
disinclined to purl.

One also knits socks in the round. It's a handy skill to have.

On Tue, 21 Aug 2007 17:52:39 -0500, "Georgia"
wrote:

If it is every other row, it is surely a difference in tension between
knitting and purling. Almost everyone has different tensions for knitting
and purling. Usually, as I think someone said, the tension is looser on the
purl row. If you think this might be the case with your knitting, get
needles in a couple of adjacent sizes, and knit a swatch (about 4" x 4")
using the larger needle to knit onto (i.e. in your right hand, on the knit
rows, if you are right handed) and the smaller needle to purl onto (in your
right hand on the purl rows). If this alleviates the problem, hurray, and
you'll see how to tweak it if necessary. If it makes the problem worse, try
knitting onto the smaller needle and purling onto the larger needle.

Good luck, and let us know how it goes.

Thank you. I shall buy knitting needles.

BTW, for future reference, "Continental" style refers to holding the working
yarn (the one connected to the ball or skein) in your left hand and using
one finger to wrap it around the working needle (the one in your right hand,
if you're right-handed).

Ah right, yes I have seen people doing that, I am always awed by their
dexterity grin

I am very much a beginner; so far, I have knitted two baby cardigans,
a baby hat and two sets of baby mittens. Previously (15 years ago) I
knitted half a T-shirt... and that's been it. I feel like I still have
a lot to learn!

Thanks again

Doug

--
http://www.kingqueen.org.uk
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I'm having problems with my knitting.

I've just finished a matinee jacket which is all very nice, but
there's a definite 2 row pattern going on. One row is definitely more
prominent than the other.

I've done a piccy:

http://www.kingqueen.org.uk/knitting.jpg

Hello-

That looks like what's called "rowing out" (unless I can't see the
picture clearly on my small screen). As the other posters mentioned,
it's usually caused by tension problems where your purl stitch and knit
stitches have different tension. The easier way to fix it (besides
purling with a smaller needle) is to knit Combination style. That's
what Annie Modesitt suggests. A quick info page can be found he

http://www.grumperina.com/comboknitbackground.htm

I find knitting with two different size needles to just end up
confusing me. Play with English or Continental style knitting, or
Combination (eastern un-crossed is what I believe the technical term
for how I knit is) and see what works best. Knit small swatches and see
what is best to start off -- and which feels easiest to work to improve.

Once you've been knitting for awhile you almost completely forget about
it until you go to do something really picky (like a Master Knitting
swatch) and suddenly it's all you can see! Or, of course, you knit an
entire project in reverse stockinette or garter -- that really makes it
stand out more.

Joseph