Closing jump-rings effectively

On Tue, 01 Aug 2006 02:39:28 GMT, "Peter W.. Rowe,"
wrote:

On Mon, 31 Jul 2006 19:33:18 -0700, in rec.crafts.jewelry Daisy
wrote:

I appreciate all the help, but got a bit frustrated in the end, and
experimented with a tiny dot of clear craft glue (E-6000) - and, while
it is time-consuming and a bit of a drag to do - it is working.

The glue would work. You might find super glue easier and less visible, while
just as effective.

And using either, you should be in a well-ventilated area.

It's thinner, so it will "wick" into the joint in the jump
ring. Apply a goodly sized large drop or two to a scrap plastic box or plastic
drink bottle lid, or something. the glue will NOT set up quickly on that
surface, especially with a mass of several drops in the pool. Dip a pin, or the
tip of a sharp craft blade or scalpel, or something similarly slim and pointed,
in the glue to pick up just a little bit, which you then touch to the joint,
applying just enough in this way, to fill the gap in the joint, without getting
the glue all over the place. In the joint, it sets in it's normal time.
(quickly). I recommend the slower setting super glue types (normally sets in 30
to 45 seconds, rather than the five seconds or so of the quick setting types.).
If you're jump rings are closed as well as you say, then you don't need the
thicker gap filling glues, and in fact, don't want them, as they're harder to
apply to a joint like this. I think you'll find this method of glueing the
joints to block them up will go a LOT faster, easier, and cleaner, than with
that messy goopy E-6000 stuff.

Peter
--
Marilee J. Layman
http://mjlayman.livejournal.com/

Daisy wrote:
I have been asked to make some earrings using acrylic irridescent
comets and I have been provided with a model. I have all the
ingredients for these earrings but am experiencing tremendous
difficulty in closing the jump rings effectively enough to stop the
very thin plastic (or acrylic) comets from sliding through. I
haven't had any problems before as I use two pairs of jewellery pliers
to open and close the rings.

Should I perhaps be using some sort of soldering technique? I am not
using sterling silver rings, but perhaps I should? The model I am
working from is just plain old silver chain and they are closed
properly. I think, however, that the model is from a
machine-generated pair of earrings, which is an entirely different can
of fish!!!

Can someone please help/advise me?

Cheers

Daisy

Carthage demands an explanation for this insolence!


While I'm surprised at the number of approaches to the problem and the
lenght the discussion has continued, on review I see no reason not to
choose the oval jump rings as the best solution to the problem. It has
'elegance'.

Carl

--
to reply, change ( .not) to ( .net)

Peter W.. Rowe, wrote:
On Mon, 31 Jul 2006 19:33:18 -0700, in rec.crafts.jewelry Daisy
wrote:

Dip a pin, or the
tip of a sharp craft blade or scalpel, or something similarly slim and pointed,
in the glue to pick up just a little bit, which you then touch to the joint,
applying just enough in this way, to fill the gap in the joint, without getting
the glue all over the place.

I've always been partial to broken pieces of jewelers saw blade. They
seem to always hold just the right amount of glue.

On Tue, 01 Aug 2006 02:39:28 GMT, "Peter W.. Rowe,"
wrote:

On Mon, 31 Jul 2006 19:33:18 -0700, in rec.crafts.jewelry Daisy
wrote:

I appreciate all the help, but got a bit frustrated in the end, and
experimented with a tiny dot of clear craft glue (E-6000) - and, while
it is time-consuming and a bit of a drag to do - it is working.

The glue would work. You might find super glue easier and less visible, while
just as effective. It's thinner, so it will "wick" into the joint in the jump
ring. Apply a goodly sized large drop or two to a scrap plastic box or plastic
drink bottle lid, or something. the glue will NOT set up quickly on that
surface, especially with a mass of several drops in the pool. Dip a pin, or the
tip of a sharp craft blade or scalpel, or something similarly slim and pointed,
in the glue to pick up just a little bit, which you then touch to the joint,
applying just enough in this way, to fill the gap in the joint, without getting
the glue all over the place. In the joint, it sets in it's normal time.
(quickly). I recommend the slower setting super glue types (normally sets in 30
to 45 seconds, rather than the five seconds or so of the quick setting types.).
If you're jump rings are closed as well as you say, then you don't need the
thicker gap filling glues, and in fact, don't want them, as they're harder to
apply to a joint like this. I think you'll find this method of glueing the
joints to block them up will go a LOT faster, easier, and cleaner, than with
that messy goopy E-6000 stuff.

Peter

Hi Peter

Thank you so much for this. I haven't tried it yet, but mean to
within the next couple of days. I can see WHY a tiny dot of super
glue on a pin would work - it's amazing how other people see things
(or maybe you have had the same sort of experience as me?)

Whatever, I am so so grateful, and will repost when I have tried it.

BTW the E-600 was messy but it did work as far as it went. I don't
want to work too much with it in this fashion however, so am anxious
to try your method. I shall get the slower setting type and the
quick type and give them both a go - and report back.

With appreciation,

Cheers

Daisy

Carthage demands an explanation for this insolence!

On Tue, 01 Aug 2006 23:50:51 -0700, in rec.crafts.jewelry Daisy
wrote:



... I don't
want to work too much with it in this fashion however, so am anxious
to try your method. I shall get the slower setting type and the
quick type and give them both a go - and report back.


Um, Daisy? Why try the quick setting super glue? I suggested the slow setting
for several reasons. The quick setting types offer no advantage for you in this
application, and have several disadvantages.

The slow setting types will also set up more slowly in the multi-drop puddle you
put out on your bench to work with, so you will be able to do more jump rings
with that bit of glue before it needs to be replaced with a new bit to dip your
needle in. And the slow setting, in the event you accidentally get too much
glue on the ring, or it goes where you don't want, gives you the time to grab a
tissue and blot it off before it sets. With the quick set, you'd be getting
out the acetone and trying to remove the set up glue. The quick set stuff is
fine for times when you need to hold two parts in alignment until the glue sets,
and don't want to sit there holding the thing for a full minute or so. Your
jump rings don't require that. Put on the glue, then just set the assembly
down, being careful that the parts ON the ring are not in contact with the
joint. Simple.

By the way, a hint with super glues. (all types) let them set for at least an
hour or two in open air, or with decent air circulation, and don't get them wet
during that time.. Don't put the glued part in an airtight place, such as a
ziplock bag. Even after setting, the glues are a bit reactive, both giving off
some slight fumes for a while and being reactive to moisture (moisture is an
essential part of how they set up, but too much causes problems) , and in a
confined zip lock bag, or if exposed to moisture, the result is a white foggy
coating on your item all over the general area of the joint. That's a mess. So
just let the things sit out for a while before putting the parts away, and when
you package them, tissue paper or a paper envelope is used, not a ziplock, until
the parts have set for a couple hours or so.

Also, Ne333ro, who recommended a bit of broken jewelers sawblade to apply the
glue has a good idea there. I didn't suggest it on the assumption you're not
using a jewelers saw, and might not have such blades. But if you do, the teeth
nicely grab a little glue that's often just about right. Myself, I prefer a
scalpel blade, since it's tip grabs just a tad of glue just to each side of the
tip, and the sharp tip is easily placed and then leaned over to get the glue on
the side of the blade to contact the joint and flow in. Plus, I've got that
tool sitting on my bench anyway, easier to find quickly than a bit of broken
sawblades (I've got plenty of those too, they're just not what I'm in the habit
of using most of the time. The exception is gluing pearls on posts, where the
sawblade is perfect for getting the glue down in the drill hole...) A sharp
pin may actually be the more difficult to use of the various options, since the
glue will tend to ride up away from the point of the pin, making it a bit more
difficult to place the glue in an exact amount. With a knife or scalpel blade,
the grinding marks on the side of the sharpened edge serve to hold on to the
glue better...

nuff for now. Good luck

Peter