Questions on Ingredients

Well just posting has gotten me to the point of ordering ingredients. Now
I'm stuck on which ones. Can anyone tell my why one over the other? Is
the more expensive necessarily the better buy (or visa versa)?

whiting Snocal 40
whiting Vicron 2511

Wollastonite W10 200M
Wollastonite W20 352M

Rutile Light Ceramic
Rutile Dark Milled
Rutile Grandular

Neph Syn 270M Minex3
Neph Syn 400M Minex4

Potash Custer
Potash G-200

Bentonite Western 200M
Bentonite Western 325M
Bentonite B
Betonite 149

*Flint SIL-CO-SIL 75 (200M)
Flint SIL-CO-SIL 52 (325M)
Flint SIL-CO-SIL 40 (400M)


* is this what I'm to use for Silica in the MC6G book?

On Fri, 16 Jul 2004 06:21:07 GMT, "dkat" wrote:

Well just posting has gotten me to the point of ordering ingredients. Now
I'm stuck on which ones. Can anyone tell my why one over the other? Is
the more expensive necessarily the better buy (or visa versa)?

whiting Snocal 40
whiting Vicron 2511

Wollastonite W10 200M
Wollastonite W20 352M

Rutile Light Ceramic
Rutile Dark Milled
Rutile Grandular

Neph Syn 270M Minex3
Neph Syn 400M Minex4

Potash Custer
Potash G-200

Bentonite Western 200M
Bentonite Western 325M
Bentonite B
Betonite 149

*Flint SIL-CO-SIL 75 (200M)
Flint SIL-CO-SIL 52 (325M)
Flint SIL-CO-SIL 40 (400M)


* is this what I'm to use for Silica in the MC6G book?


First, flint is indeed the form of silica most folks use.
Higher mesh numbers (xxxM) indicate finer powders;
they have been passed through a mesh with that
many threads or wires per inch. Finer powders make
glazes that will melt together faster, but I don't really
have any experience comparing differences betweeen
(say) 325M and 400M... I'd guess this would make no
difference to most uses. I tend to mentally divide things
into "coarse" and "fine" at around 100M, and wouldn't
hesitate to use anything over 200M in a glaze. Prices
may differ, so I'd go with what gets the job done most
economically.

And you might want to get some Gillespie Borate (or
some other GB substitute) for those times when you
need to get a low-temperature melt and low expansion.
There are lots of recipes that call for this (or an "equivalent"
frit), so I wouldn't rule it out just yet.

Just my $0.02 worth...



Bob Masta
dqatechATdaqartaDOTcom

D A Q A R T A
Data AcQuisition And Real-Time Analysis
www.daqarta.com

Thank you. I was going to get 3195 and 3134 Frits - will those do? And
which is the Rutile you would use for glazes?

This is my current list that I'm trying to whittle it down if you care -

G200 Feldspar 12
Custer Feldspar 15
Ferro Frit 3134 50
Ferro Frit 3195 62
Wollastonite 12
Whiting 12
Nepheline Syenite12
OM-4 Ball Clay
EPK 12
Silica
Talc 9
Spanish Red Iron Oxide 30

Rutile
Green Chrome Ox
Tin Oxide
Titanium Dioxide




"Bob Masta" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 16 Jul 2004 06:21:07 GMT, "dkat" wrote:
First, flint is indeed the form of silica most folks use.
Higher mesh numbers (xxxM) indicate finer powders;
they have been passed through a mesh with that
many threads or wires per inch. Finer powders make
glazes that will melt together faster, but I don't really
have any experience comparing differences betweeen
(say) 325M and 400M... I'd guess this would make no
difference to most uses. I tend to mentally divide things
into "coarse" and "fine" at around 100M, and wouldn't
hesitate to use anything over 200M in a glaze. Prices
may differ, so I'd go with what gets the job done most
economically.

And you might want to get some Gillespie Borate (or
some other GB substitute) for those times when you
need to get a low-temperature melt and low expansion.
There are lots of recipes that call for this (or an "equivalent"
frit), so I wouldn't rule it out just yet.

Just my $0.02 worth...



Bob Masta
dqatechATdaqartaDOTcom

D A Q A R T A
Data AcQuisition And Real-Time Analysis
www.daqarta.com

Back to this question.... I will have to buy a sieve - I believe I was told
80 mesh.... Is that going to be fine enough?

"Bob Masta" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 16 Jul 2004 06:21:07 GMT, "dkat" wrote:

Well just posting has gotten me to the point of ordering ingredients.
Now
I'm stuck on which ones. Can anyone tell my why one over the other?
Is
the more expensive necessarily the better buy (or visa versa)?

whiting Snocal 40
whiting Vicron 2511

Wollastonite W10 200M
Wollastonite W20 352M

Rutile Light Ceramic
Rutile Dark Milled
Rutile Grandular

Neph Syn 270M Minex3
Neph Syn 400M Minex4

Potash Custer
Potash G-200

Bentonite Western 200M
Bentonite Western 325M
Bentonite B
Betonite 149

*Flint SIL-CO-SIL 75 (200M)
Flint SIL-CO-SIL 52 (325M)
Flint SIL-CO-SIL 40 (400M)


* is this what I'm to use for Silica in the MC6G book?


First, flint is indeed the form of silica most folks use.
Higher mesh numbers (xxxM) indicate finer powders;
they have been passed through a mesh with that
many threads or wires per inch. Finer powders make
glazes that will melt together faster, but I don't really
have any experience comparing differences betweeen
(say) 325M and 400M... I'd guess this would make no
difference to most uses. I tend to mentally divide things
into "coarse" and "fine" at around 100M, and wouldn't
hesitate to use anything over 200M in a glaze. Prices
may differ, so I'd go with what gets the job done most
economically.

And you might want to get some Gillespie Borate (or
some other GB substitute) for those times when you
need to get a low-temperature melt and low expansion.
There are lots of recipes that call for this (or an "equivalent"
frit), so I wouldn't rule it out just yet.

Just my $0.02 worth...



Bob Masta
dqatechATdaqartaDOTcom

D A Q A R T A
Data AcQuisition And Real-Time Analysis
www.daqarta.com

"D Kat" wrote in message
...
Back to this question.... I will have to buy a sieve - I believe I was
told
80 mesh.... Is that going to be fine enough?

If you are going to buy only one sieve, buy that 80 mesh. If you are going
to buy two, get an 80 and a 120. For coarser than 80, you can always use a
piece of (metal) window screening, or a screen material kitchen strainer.
I've worked that way for years.

Funny, I've never rubbed off my fingerprints though :)

Wayne Seidl
Key West, Florida, USA
North America, Terra
Latitude 81.45W, Longitude 24.33N
Elevation 3.1 feet (1m)

On Mon, 19 Jul 2004 11:49:17 -0400, "wayneinkeywest"
wrote:


"D Kat" wrote in message
...
Back to this question.... I will have to buy a sieve - I believe I was
told
80 mesh.... Is that going to be fine enough?

If you are going to buy only one sieve, buy that 80 mesh. If you are going
to buy two, get an 80 and a 120. For coarser than 80, you can always use a
piece of (metal) window screening, or a screen material kitchen strainer.
I've worked that way for years.

Funny, I've never rubbed off my fingerprints though :)


If you are looking for an inexpensive source for sieve
material to make your own, the best place I've found
is McMaster-Carr. A 1ft square of most any mesh size
is in the 7-8 dollar range. I built a simple square fram
from 2x2 lumber and stapled the sieve screen to the
face of it, then gave the frame multiple coats of semi-gloss
interior latex to seal both the wood and the seam where
the screen meets the wood. Works great!

McMaster-Carr is at www.mcmaster.com. For an
80 mesh sieve I got part number 85385T869 "Type 304
Stainless Steel Woven Wire Cloth, 80 x 80 mesh, 0.0055 inch
wire diameter, 12" x 12" sheet". It was $7.24 one year ago.
No minimum order, no "handling" charge. I also got 4 other
sizes and the total shipping was only $4.25.

Hope this helps!




Bob Masta
dqatechATdaqartaDOTcom

D A Q A R T A
Data AcQuisition And Real-Time Analysis
www.daqarta.com

Back to this question.... I will have to buy a sieve - I believe I was
told
80 mesh.... Is that going to be fine enough?
If you are looking for an inexpensive source for sieve
material to make your own, the best place I've found
is McMaster-Carr. A 1ft square of most any mesh size
is in the 7-8 dollar range. I built a simple square fram
from 2x2 lumber and stapled the sieve screen to the
face of it, then gave the frame multiple coats of semi-gloss
interior latex to seal both the wood and the seam where
the screen meets the wood. Works great!

It might be easier to get a piece of PVC pipe about 200 mm diameter, and
cut off about an 80 mm length. (I scrounged a bit of yellow PVC: is that
for gas?) Lay the mesh on it, and run a biggish soldering iron (25 watts
is plenty) round the edge, to weld the mesh into the PVC. Then cut round
the outer edge, being careful not to leave any strands of the mesh
sticking out.

The big advantage of a circular frame is that there are no corners to
clean out after use.

--
Jake Loddington POULTON-LE-FYLDE, Lancashire, England

Such a wealth of info I don't know where to start. Thank you again. Donna

"Bob Masta" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 19 Jul 2004 11:49:17 -0400, "wayneinkeywest"
wrote:


"D Kat" wrote in message
...
Back to this question.... I will have to buy a sieve - I believe I was
told
80 mesh.... Is that going to be fine enough?

If you are going to buy only one sieve, buy that 80 mesh. If you are
going
to buy two, get an 80 and a 120. For coarser than 80, you can always use
a
piece of (metal) window screening, or a screen material kitchen strainer.
I've worked that way for years.

Funny, I've never rubbed off my fingerprints though :)


If you are looking for an inexpensive source for sieve
material to make your own, the best place I've found
is McMaster-Carr. A 1ft square of most any mesh size
is in the 7-8 dollar range. I built a simple square fram
from 2x2 lumber and stapled the sieve screen to the
face of it, then gave the frame multiple coats of semi-gloss
interior latex to seal both the wood and the seam where
the screen meets the wood. Works great!

McMaster-Carr is at www.mcmaster.com. For an
80 mesh sieve I got part number 85385T869 "Type 304
Stainless Steel Woven Wire Cloth, 80 x 80 mesh, 0.0055 inch
wire diameter, 12" x 12" sheet". It was $7.24 one year ago.
No minimum order, no "handling" charge. I also got 4 other
sizes and the total shipping was only $4.25.

Hope this helps!




Bob Masta
dqatechATdaqartaDOTcom

D A Q A R T A
Data AcQuisition And Real-Time Analysis
www.daqarta.com

"dkat" wrote in message
...
Well just posting has gotten me to the point of ordering ingredients. Now
I'm stuck on which ones. Can anyone tell my why one over the other? Is
the more expensive necessarily the better buy (or visa versa)?

whiting Snocal 40
whiting Vicron 2511

Wollastonite W10 200M
Wollastonite W20 352M

Rutile Light Ceramic
Rutile Dark Milled
Rutile Grandular

Neph Syn 270M Minex3
Neph Syn 400M Minex4

Potash Custer
Potash G-200

Bentonite Western 200M
Bentonite Western 325M
Bentonite B
Betonite 149

*Flint SIL-CO-SIL 75 (200M)
Flint SIL-CO-SIL 52 (325M)
Flint SIL-CO-SIL 40 (400M)


* is this what I'm to use for Silica in the MC6G book?


Dkat:
Bob has already replied on mesh sizes, so I would add that you will get
different results from the light rutile, and the rutile granular. You
should have both. If a "recipe" doesn't specify, use the light rutile. As
far as the feldspars, Custer and G-200. Again, you should have both, and
some K4 as well, since different glazes call for different types of 'spar.

Personally, I always go with the finest grain I can get. Easier to mix,
stays in suspension better. If the price is not that different, that is,
since I can always grind it down finer myself and re-sieve it.

Best,

Wayne Seidl
Key West, Florida, USA
North America, Terra
Latitude 81.45W, Longitude 24.33N
Elevation 3.1 feet (1m)

Thank you - scratch the rutile question just posted.... Beginning to feel a
bit more confident (I was fearless until I had kids....)

"wayneinkeywest" wrote in message
...



Dkat:
Bob has already replied on mesh sizes, so I would add that you will get
different results from the light rutile, and the rutile granular. You
should have both. If a "recipe" doesn't specify, use the light rutile.
As
far as the feldspars, Custer and G-200. Again, you should have both, and
some K4 as well, since different glazes call for different types of 'spar.

Personally, I always go with the finest grain I can get. Easier to mix,
stays in suspension better. If the price is not that different, that is,
since I can always grind it down finer myself and re-sieve it.

Best,

Wayne Seidl
Key West, Florida, USA
North America, Terra
Latitude 81.45W, Longitude 24.33N
Elevation 3.1 feet (1m)