question about cover hem, again

Thanks to your help I've sorted out the problem with skipping stitch
and breaking thread but the current problem I have is the cover hem
thread tension underneath the fabric. Each time I change my Elna 744
from overlock to cover hem it takes a while before I get the cover hem
stitch right. The problem occurs even when I just change one of the
threads. The thread is loose underneath (it's fine at the top) and no
matter how long I play with the tension dials I can't get the tension
of the thread right. Normally it simply takes sewing on crap fabric
until the problem fixed itself for no apparent reason. Now I've been
sewing and sewing, trying all different tension combinations,
re-threaded the machine a few times but nothing helps - the thread
underneath is still loose.

Any advice appreciated!
Vilna

Vilna wrote:

Thanks to your help I've sorted out the problem with skipping stitch
and breaking thread but the current problem I have is the cover hem
thread tension underneath the fabric. Each time I change my Elna 744
from overlock to cover hem it takes a while before I get the cover hem
stitch right. The problem occurs even when I just change one of the
threads. The thread is loose underneath (it's fine at the top) and no
matter how long I play with the tension dials I can't get the tension
of the thread right. Normally it simply takes sewing on crap fabric
until the problem fixed itself for no apparent reason. Now I've been
sewing and sewing, trying all different tension combinations,
re-threaded the machine a few times but nothing helps - the thread
underneath is still loose.

Any advice appreciated!
Vilna


Have you stripped the threads out and flossed the tension disks? If
you've used a bulk or fluffy thread, there might be a tiny bit
preventing the tension disks working properly.
--
Kate XXXXXX
Lady Catherine, Wardrobe Mistress of the Chocolate Buttons
http://www.diceyhome.free-online.co.uk
Click on Kate's Pages and explore!

Thanks, Kate! It looks like the thread wasn't in the right place
because when I now thread the looper I floss the tension disk and it
works!

I looked up your website and it seems you have plenty of experience
with sewing. I am quite a beginner and having to deal with constant
problems.. I'm making underwear (briefs and camisole) of cotton/lycra
blend. I'm having problems with binding. I want to have different
colour binding from the same material but I find it very difficult to
do a good quality job with my cover hem. The stitch itself is fine but
the binding just doesn't look good enough. I cut 3cm strips, fold the
strips in half (ironing over)and then put the rough edges into the
middle (ironing again) and fold again (and iron). The fabric is
stretchy and I just cannot get the binding look proper. It's a couple
of millimetres wider at places and it shows. Having trouble getting
the stitches straight too. I don't have a special foot for binding but
do you know of any tricks that might help me make nice looking binding
from a stretchy cotton/lycra fabric?

Many thanks!
Vilna



Kate Dicey wrote in message ...
Vilna wrote:

Thanks to your help I've sorted out the problem with skipping stitch
and breaking thread but the current problem I have is the cover hem
thread tension underneath the fabric. Each time I change my Elna 744
from overlock to cover hem it takes a while before I get the cover hem
stitch right. The problem occurs even when I just change one of the
threads. The thread is loose underneath (it's fine at the top) and no
matter how long I play with the tension dials I can't get the tension
of the thread right. Normally it simply takes sewing on crap fabric
until the problem fixed itself for no apparent reason. Now I've been
sewing and sewing, trying all different tension combinations,
re-threaded the machine a few times but nothing helps - the thread
underneath is still loose.

Any advice appreciated!
Vilna


Have you stripped the threads out and flossed the tension disks? If
you've used a bulk or fluffy thread, there might be a tiny bit
preventing the tension disks working properly.

The mock binding sounds like an option. I will try it and see how it
works on underwear.

Thanks again!
Vilna


Kate Dicey wrote in message ...
Vilna wrote:

Thanks, Kate! It looks like the thread wasn't in the right place
because when I now thread the looper I floss the tension disk and it
works!

I looked up your website and it seems you have plenty of experience
with sewing. I am quite a beginner and having to deal with constant
problems.. I'm making underwear (briefs and camisole) of cotton/lycra
blend. I'm having problems with binding. I want to have different
colour binding from the same material but I find it very difficult to
do a good quality job with my cover hem. The stitch itself is fine but
the binding just doesn't look good enough. I cut 3cm strips, fold the
strips in half (ironing over)and then put the rough edges into the
middle (ironing again) and fold again (and iron). The fabric is
stretchy and I just cannot get the binding look proper. It's a couple
of millimetres wider at places and it shows. Having trouble getting
the stitches straight too. I don't have a special foot for binding but
do you know of any tricks that might help me make nice looking binding
from a stretchy cotton/lycra fabric?

One thing you might like to try is using ball point or super stretch
needles in the machine (on both serger and sewing machine, for that
matter!), as Lycra fabrics REALLY need these needles.

Cut your binding from the WIDTH of the fabric to get maximum stretch,
and cut it just a bit shorter than the area you want to bind: stretch
the binding to fit.

It sounds like you are ending up with too many layers! One thing you
could try if a 'mock' binding: fold your strips in half down the length:
place BOTH cut edges to the cut edge of the garment on the right side.
Serge in place using a narrow seam. Turn the seam allowances to the
body of the garment and press in place GENTLY!

An excellent little book on sewing knits with and without the serger is
The Stretch & Sew Guide To Sewing On Knits by Anne Person. ISBN
0-8019-8593-5 (Chiltern Book Company 1994) $19.95. This, and several
other sewing books are given short reviews on my Book List.