A binding question

Aaah, yes!! That makes sense!

Now, another question. I always trim my top, batting and backing at the
same time....when I've finished the quilting. I always need to "square up"
the top as well as the other layers. How could the top be trimmed in a
separate step from squaring up the batting and backing? I don't understand
how the top could have a quarter inch seam and the batting and backing have
a half inch seam when the binding is sewn on. Help....

--
Alice in PA
http://community.webshots.com/user/twosonsatpsu
"Pat S" wrote in message
...
Not Roberta, Alice; but, in answer to my original question, Roberta and
the others are helping me to make a half-inch binding.
Does that help?
.
In message , Alice in PA
writes
Roberta,
I'm trying to understand your method. It's clear until the trimming of
the backing and batting. I don't understand why they'd be 1/2 inch from
the stitching. I cut mine 1/4 inch, the same as the top, for a 1/4 inch
finished binding. Do you fold the backing and batting in half somehow?
I'm always open to new techniques, so would like to understand this. I
sometimes "trim" my corners a little too....makes a much less bulky miter.

Alice


--
Best Regards
Pat on the Green

On Aug 18, 3:35*pm, "Alice in PA" wrote:
Aaah, yes!! *That makes sense!

Now, another question. *I always trim my top, batting and backing at the
same time....when I've finished the quilting. *I always need to "square up"
the top as well as the other layers. *How could the top be trimmed in a
separate step from squaring up the batting and backing? *I don't understand
how the top could have a quarter inch seam and the batting and backing have
a half inch seam when the binding is sewn on. *Help....

--
Alice in PAhttp://community.webshots.com/user/twosonsatpsu"Pat S" wrote in message

...



Not Roberta, Alice; but, in answer to my original question, Roberta and
the others are helping me to make a half-inch binding.
Does that help?
.
In message , Alice in PA
writes
Roberta,
I'm trying to understand your method. *It's clear until the trimming of
the backing and batting. *I don't understand why they'd be 1/2 inch from
the stitching. *I cut mine 1/4 inch, the same as the top, for a 1/4 inch
finished binding. *Do you fold the backing and batting in half somehow?
I'm always open to new techniques, so would like to understand this. *I
sometimes "trim" my corners a little too....makes a much less bulky miter.

Alice

--
Best Regards
Pat on the Green- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I do the same for 1/2 inch binding. After the quilting is completed I
do a 'rough' trim of my excess batting/backing to make machine sewing
the binding to the top a little easier. When the binding is
completely sewn to the top with a 1/4 inch seam allowance from the
edge of the top (and through all the layers) I do a final trim of the
backing and binding another 1/4 inch from the edge of the top - thus
making a 1/2 inch binding.

Does that make it easier to follow??? Hope so.

Kim in NJ

Roberta, this is just what I do, also!
And when I turn it to the back, it is hand sewn. Sometimes, depending
on the size of the project, there is the hanging tube or corner
triangles sewn in.

Ginger in CA

On Aug 18, 3:05*am, Roberta Roberta@Home wrote:
You already have several answers, but here's mine without looking at
the others. I cut strips 2.5", join with a diagonal seam pressed open.
Fold the strip in half *and press. I also press the starting end with
a diagonal flap folded over, which is where the 2 ends will eventually
be sewn together.

After it's all attached, using a quarter-inch seam as measured from
the edge of the quilt top, I trim the backing and batting to 1/2" from
the stitching line. I also trim a little triangle off each corner.
This will give a nice plump and even bound edge with neat square
corners (provided you did your coner miters properly :-)
Roberta in D

IMO it just makes a nice fat bound edge, and the finished binding is
about 1/2" wide, front and back. For anything bigger than a wall
hanging, I really want a 1/2" binding. Anf a 2.5" strip, folded in
half to 1.25", then attached with a quarter-inch seam, does leave you
with an inch of binding to fold over and stitch down, a half inch per
side!
Roberta in D

On Thu, 18 Aug 2011 10:42:19 -0400, "Alice in PA"
wrote:

Roberta,
I'm trying to understand your method. It's clear until the trimming of the
backing and batting. I don't understand why they'd be 1/2 inch from the
stitching. I cut mine 1/4 inch, the same as the top, for a 1/4 inch
finished binding. Do you fold the backing and batting in half somehow? I'm
always open to new techniques, so would like to understand this. I
sometimes "trim" my corners a little too....makes a much less bulky miter.

Alice

I try really hard to end up with a reasonably square quilted top,
which of course has some backing and batting hanging on beyond the
edge of the top. I stitch the binding strip, quarter-inch seam, lined
up with the edge of the top. Then when I trim off the excess, I can
make it any width I want, usually a half inch from the stitching line.
So there's a quarter inch of batting/backing sticking out all the way
around, in addition to the quarter-inch seam allowance.
Roberta in D

On Thu, 18 Aug 2011 15:35:54 -0400, "Alice in PA"
wrote:

Aaah, yes!! That makes sense!

Now, another question. I always trim my top, batting and backing at the
same time....when I've finished the quilting. I always need to "square up"
the top as well as the other layers. How could the top be trimmed in a
separate step from squaring up the batting and backing? I don't understand
how the top could have a quarter inch seam and the batting and backing have
a half inch seam when the binding is sewn on. Help....

Thanks very much everyone. I have done a couple of tests so far, and am
just about to do a few more. I can't get it quite right yet; but I will
do eventually. It is our group quilt, so I can't make any mistakes.
The fabric is all batik, so is not as fine as I usually work with - my
mitred corners usually work like a dream; but these might be more
tricky, because of the 'sturdiness' of the fabric. I'm grateful for the
tips in this thread.
--
Best Regards
Pat on the Green

Glad you reported back, Pat. I'd wondered how it was going. Oh my yes, the
sturdiness of batik is surely a factor to be reckoned with. Batik is not
very yielding with appliqué either. Polly


"Pat S" wrote in message
...
Thanks very much everyone. I have done a couple of tests so far, and am
just about to do a few more. I can't get it quite right yet; but I will
do eventually. It is our group quilt, so I can't make any mistakes. The
fabric is all batik, so is not as fine as I usually work with - my mitred
corners usually work like a dream; but these might be more tricky, because
of the 'sturdiness' of the fabric. I'm grateful for the tips in this
thread.
--
Best Regards
Pat on the Green

When you're attachint the binding strip, and you come to the corner,
there's that maneuver where you turn, fold the strip back at 45
degrees, then fold down parallel to the new edge. Usually that last
fold is even with the previous edge. But if you give it just a smidgen
more so it sticks out about a 16th", there's more space for stiff
fabrics to form a nice miter.
Roberta in D

On Tue, 23 Aug 2011 12:15:35 +0100, Pat S
wrote:

Thanks very much everyone. I have done a couple of tests so far, and am
just about to do a few more. I can't get it quite right yet; but I will
do eventually. It is our group quilt, so I can't make any mistakes.
The fabric is all batik, so is not as fine as I usually work with - my
mitred corners usually work like a dream; but these might be more
tricky, because of the 'sturdiness' of the fabric. I'm grateful for the
tips in this thread.

Thanks so much for that Roberta. The 'tightness' of the corner was one
reason I rejected one of the tests! You must be psychic. The latest
one I did was passable! This might be just the touch it needs.
Terrific, thank you.
..
In message , Roberta
writes
When you're attachint the binding strip, and you come to the corner,
there's that maneuver where you turn, fold the strip back at 45
degrees, then fold down parallel to the new edge. Usually that last
fold is even with the previous edge. But if you give it just a smidgen
more so it sticks out about a 16th", there's more space for stiff
fabrics to form a nice miter.
Roberta in D

--
Best Regards
Pat on the Green