Blue ceramics

No: not cobalt.

Some while ago, I saw a photograph of a porcelain vase with a blue
shadowgram image. I assumed that this was a cyanotype image (the father
of the engineers' blueprint), and was therefore unfired.

I read up about this antique photographic process, which pre-dated even
daguerreotypes, and did some tests. On thick paper or card, the results
were OK. But as soon as I tried it on a biscuited ceramic test tile, the
results were hopeless.

And, of course, such images couldn't be fired; they would need wax or
polyurethane varnish to protect them.

I wonder if anyone else in this group has tried to use photography, old
or new, to put images on pots?

--
Jake Loddington, POULTON-LE-FYLDE, Lancs, UK

not BLUE - but you might want to read this article about firing laser
jet
images on pottery

http://www.printandclay.net/printand...wpointtext.htm

maybe after firing - a light blue transparent glaze over it would
make an interesting effect?
Cheryl

Jake Loddington wrote:
No: not cobalt.

Some while ago, I saw a photograph of a porcelain vase with a blue
shadowgram image. I assumed that this was a cyanotype image (the father
of the engineers' blueprint), and was therefore unfired.

I read up about this antique photographic process, which pre-dated even
daguerreotypes, and did some tests. On thick paper or card, the results
were OK. But as soon as I tried it on a biscuited ceramic test tile, the
results were hopeless.

And, of course, such images couldn't be fired; they would need wax or
polyurethane varnish to protect them.

I wonder if anyone else in this group has tried to use photography, old
or new, to put images on pots?

--
Jake Loddington, POULTON-LE-FYLDE, Lancs, UK

In message . com,
Cheryl writes
not BLUE - but you might want to read this article about firing laser
jet
images on pottery

http://www.printandclay.net/printand...wpointtext.htm

maybe after firing - a light blue transparent glaze over it would
make an interesting effect?
Cheryl

Thanks, Cheryl.

This is a useful summary of the laser approach.

I tried this some time ago, in two ways: one, by interrupting the laser
process before the image was fused, and then transferring the toner
powder to damp clay, and the other, by printing a properly fused image
on decal paper, and making decals in the usual way.

Sadly, the toner in my laser printer did not have enough iron content,
and the results were lacking in density. But I've now got a Samsung
laser, and I wonder if their toner formulation has enough iron in it? A
case for still more experiments.

Your comment about a light blue glaze was interesting, because the
nearest I got to success with the laser decals was when I applied them
to surfaces having a light blue glaze . . .

Jake Loddington, POULTON-LE-FYLDE, Lancs, UK

JAke

the whole website (from which that was but a single
link) was very interesting - I spent about an hour
looking at the different techniques and artists.

Cool that you had tried the laser thing!

I have a pottery kiln - inherited from my
grandmother - and probably close to
$1000 worth of china paints and
porcelain blanks ---
and a pottery wheel I've never even
used -- I want to take a throwing class
someday.... G
gawd only knows I have enough
hobbies already!
Cheryl
www.dragonbeads.com

Jake Loddington wrote:
In message . com,
Cheryl writes
not BLUE - but you might want to read this article about firing laser
jet
images on pottery

http://www.printandclay.net/printand...wpointtext.htm

maybe after firing - a light blue transparent glaze over it would
make an interesting effect?
Cheryl

Thanks, Cheryl.

This is a useful summary of the laser approach.

I tried this some time ago, in two ways: one, by interrupting the laser
process before the image was fused, and then transferring the toner
powder to damp clay, and the other, by printing a properly fused image
on decal paper, and making decals in the usual way.

Sadly, the toner in my laser printer did not have enough iron content,
and the results were lacking in density. But I've now got a Samsung
laser, and I wonder if their toner formulation has enough iron in it? A
case for still more experiments.

Your comment about a light blue glaze was interesting, because the
nearest I got to success with the laser decals was when I applied them
to surfaces having a light blue glaze . . .

Jake Loddington, POULTON-LE-FYLDE, Lancs, UK