Subject: [Ganoksin] [October 2003] Tips From The Jeweler's Bench

The Ganoksin Project
S i n c e 1 9 9 6
Jewelry Manufacturing Methods and Techniques
http://www.ganoksin.com

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In This Edition:

1. The Hard Facts of Sapphire & Ruby.
2. Combining Enameling Techniques.
3. Tarnishing Of Gold Jewelry and Black Skin Smudging.
4. Chain Reaction - Tips on repairing broken chains.
5. Testing Precious Metals and Their Alloys.
6. A Lesson in Invisible Setting.
7. Lets Talk Gemstones - Zircon Group - A Nesosilicate.
8. Metals Suitable for Enameling.
9. Notes on Studio Lighting.
10. Have your studio separate from your home.

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http://www.creativegem.com

Make your gemstone shopping easier, safer and cheaper by buying
directly from the source at http://www.creativegem.com

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Put an Orchid on your Bench

Join the most popular online community for jewelers, The Orchid
forums at http://www.ganoksin.com/orchid
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In This Edition of Tips From The Jeweler's Bench

http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/tip_sear.htm

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1. The Hard Facts of Sapphire & Ruby

Ask any jeweler to list the gemstones with which they prefer to work,
and sapphires and rubies would undoubtedly rank near the top. With a
hardness of 9 on the Mohs scale, these popular varieties of corundum
have long been considered nearly impossible to damage, and they can
easily withstand the melting point of even high karat gold solders.
Not surprisingly, many jewelers feel a comforting sense of security
when faced with a ruby- or sapphire-set piece. Which may be a
problem....

Complete Story:
http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/nenam/ajm-corundum.htm

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2. Combining Enameling Techniques

Enamel technique has progressed in a logical and practical direction
through the ages, advancing when inspiration, need or new technology
permitted. Modern technology has indeed given us new approaches to
technique but only from the grounded foundation of knowledge that
existed before....

Complete Story:
http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/nenam/gom-combining.htm

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3. Tarnishing Of Gold Jewelry And Black Skin Smudging

Tarnishing is superficial corrosion of the carat gold surface and is
evident by a usually dark discolouration - the tarnish film. Pure
gold, of course, is not susceptible to tarnishing and this property
is generally not greatly reduced by alloying to carat golds as long
as the gold content is high enough....

Complete Story:
http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/nena...at-tarnish.htm

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4. Chain Reaction - Tips on repairing broken chains

The difficulty of chain repair lies in the fact that the chain is
made up of fine wires. These wires heat up quickly when trying to
melt the solder. Two problems develop. The first is if the wire link
gets too hot, it will quickly melt as you are trying to solder....

Complete Story:
http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/nena...pair-chain.htm

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5. Testing Precious Metals and Their Alloys

The purpose of precious metal testing is to determine, first, whether
a given sample is precious or base, and, second, to determine what
proportion of an alloy is precious. Sophisticated equipment is used
in a precious metal laboratory to determine content and purity values
with great precision, but our attention here is given to methods a
working goldsmith can use in the studio to determine metal content to
a practical degree of accuracy.....

Complete Story:
http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/nena...and-alloys.htm

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6. A Lesson in Invisible Setting

This column is from the At the Bench column that appears every month
in AJM. For this project, it is assumed that you have prepared the
mounting and acquired the grooved stones for invisible setting. The
use of a microscope or 10x eye loupe can be crucial when working with
the tight tolerances involved in the invisible setting process....

Complete Story:
http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/nena...ing-lesson.htm

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7. Lets Talk Gemstones - Zircon Group - A Nesosilicate

Zircon is the single member of the zircon group of the nesosilicates
that is suitable for use as a gemstone. In the nesosilicates,
independent SiO4 tetrahedra are connected only by ionic bonds.
Because the tetrahedra are not linked to form chains....

Complete Story:
http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/nena...gem-zircon.htm

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8. Metals Suitable for Enameling

The purpose of this article is two fold. First, we receive a number
of inquiries as to whether or not certain metals can be enameled.
This article will answer most of those questions. Second, we have all
read statements such as, 'Gilding metal can be fired no more than two
times,' or 'Platinum can not be enameled because it has a terrific
expansion.' Such statements were based on observations of a limited
range of materials. We will show why the statements are
misleading....

Complete Story:
http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/nena..._enameling.htm

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9. Notes on Studio Lighting

How you light your shop, illuminate your working area, experience the
reflection from surfaces and the paint you choose for the walls all
have an effect on your ability to work in your studio. Poor lighting
can strain the eyes, contribute to accidents and make working
uncomfortable.....

Complete Story:
http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/nena...o-lighting.htm

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10. Have your studio separate from your home

Often craftspeople start out making craft objects in their living
space, a kitchen, a living room, and sometimes continue working in
them even when they have grown to the point that they need a separate
studio. It is not wise to share one's living and family space with
workshop space. Usually there are chemicals, tools, equipment,
processes, sounds, materials, wastes, dusts and so on that are
unhealthy to be exposed to that are produced in a work shop....

Complete Story:
http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/nena...o-and-home.htm

-------------------------------------------------------------------------
http://www.creativegem.com

Make your gemstone shopping easier, safer and cheaper by buying
directly from the source at http://www.creativegem.com

-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Put an Orchid on your Bench

Join the most popular online community for jewelers, The Orchid
forums at http://www.ganoksin.com/orchid

-----------------------------------------------------------------------

Enjoy
Hanuman


-----------------[ G a n o k s i n . C o m ]-------------------

We are here to build a strong pool of information for the benefit of
Web's jewelers and craftsmen - and those interested in jewelry and
gemstones.

"Ganoksin" wrote
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4. Chain Reaction - Tips on repairing broken chains

The difficulty of chain repair lies in the fact that the chain is
made up of fine wires. These wires heat up quickly when trying to
melt the solder. Two problems develop. The first is if the wire link
gets too hot, it will quickly melt as you are trying to solder....

Complete Story:
http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/nena...pair-chain.htm


Wasn't too impressed with the warning not to polish chains with a buffing motor.
Polishing motors
are perfectly safe if treated with the respect they deserve and the chains are
polished using
correct methods that minimise the risks considerably.

At one point in my career I worked at a chain manufacturers and did the bulk of
the polishing (many,
many kgs per day) on polishing motors. From small bench grinder types to massive
versions. Never a
problem was had.

Having said that I did know a girl who had her hair ripped out by the roots. But
then she was stupid
enough not to tie it back before going near the motor.

Whilst the method described in the above article is perfectly ok, I think it's a
little alarmist to
suggest that polishing motors are the root of all evil and are to be avoided at
all costs. Take
precautions and use correct methods and all will be fine.

Dale Porter

On Tue, 07 Oct 2003 00:00:27 -0700, in rec.crafts.jewelry "Dale Porter"
wrote:

Wasn't too impressed with the warning not to polish chains with a buffing motor.
Polishing motors
are perfectly safe if treated with the respect they deserve and the chains are
polished using
correct methods that minimise the risks considerably.

At one point in my career I worked at a chain manufacturers and did the bulk of
the polishing (many,
many kgs per day) on polishing motors. From small bench grinder types to massive
versions. Never a
problem was had.

In fairness, Dale,

One might also mention that you were polishing new chain, while at the repair
bench, one may be called on to repair and then polish a chain which is worn in
unpredictable ways, and may have been stretched, kinked, or otherwise stressed
in ways that considerably increase the chances of it breaking under stresses
which should have been safe. In those conditions, one needs to be even more
cautious about polishing chain. As well, in your former job, you were doing
little else, as a professional at polishing chain. In that situation, you'd
have been taught how to do it, and quickly learned the safe methods. For a
beginning repair jeweler, perhaps one learning on the job without someone to
show them how, the situation might be rather riskier.

While I agree with you that buffing motors can safely be used with chain, that
statement only holds true if the correct procedures are followed. A buffing
motor at full speed can be driving the outer surface of a reasonable sized buff
at highway speeds (a five inch buff, for example, is going a bit over 50 mph at
the outer surface). At those speeds, accidents can happen quickly, and
beginners or careless professionals can, and do, get hurt when things catch in
the buff. Most of the most serious accidents I've seen in jewelry shops in the
35 years or so I've been working in them, have been with buffing motors (except
for the one guy working a small stamping press who figured he could increase his
production rate if he defeated the safety switches, and as a result ended up
cutting off the ends of two fingers...) This includes several people (not just
women) who've caught their hair in a buff, and one, polishing a bangle bracelet,
who managed to actually pull an entire finger off, when the bracelet got caught
in the buff, and the cotton glove he was wearing to keep from scratching the
bracelet, got caught between the bracelet and the buff...

Chains can, and do break while being polished. Proper attention must be paid to
how you support and hold the chain while buffing, as well as care in keeping
track of where your hands and fingers are in relation to the work, so that if it
catches and gets away from you, you'll not be hurt.

Most pros polish most chains on the full sized buffing motor for it's speed and
superior results. But we all now and then see a chain, or other item of
jewelry, that we know shouldn't be buffed. Experience is a good teacher, but so
is just that gut feeling about a piece that says you are leery of trying to buff
it. If you're not comfortable buffing a piece, be it chain or something else,
then heed that feeling, and do what's needed at the bench with smaller and safer
flex shaft tools or fully hand tools.

Peter

If you must machine polish( using a rotating mop or bristle brush)
chain, consider using a jig. this is quite simple, all you need to
devise is a flat piece of wood say 3in wide with a means of holding the
chain at the top of the wood. Depending on the chain gauge and or link
size a small nail or pin without a head will do so long as its at an
angle, the wood supports the chain , you support the wood. If youve alot
of chain to polish then secure the chain at the bottom of the wood as
well. To polish the reverse of the chain ,turn it over.
Anyone who takes up this craft needs to be somewhat inventive. If your
self employed the buck stops with you. I pass on this tip because I dont
want any accidents to anyone.
I also always use a tapered dowel for supporting finger rings against a
mop.As the dowel wears away just make up a new one, or grind it down
some more. I use old broom handles sometimes.

"Peter W. Rowe" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 07 Oct 2003 00:00:27 -0700, in rec.crafts.jewelry "Dale Porter"
wrote:

Wasn't too impressed with the warning not to polish chains with a buffing motor.
Polishing motors
are perfectly safe if treated with the respect they deserve and the chains are
polished using
correct methods that minimise the risks considerably.

At one point in my career I worked at a chain manufacturers and did the bulk of
the polishing (many,
many kgs per day) on polishing motors. From small bench grinder types to massive
versions. Never a
problem was had.

In fairness, Dale,

One might also mention that you were polishing new chain, while at the repair
bench, one may be called on to repair and then polish a chain which is worn in
unpredictable ways, and may have been stretched, kinked, or otherwise stressed
in ways that considerably increase the chances of it breaking under stresses
which should have been safe. In those conditions, one needs to be even more
cautious about polishing chain. As well, in your former job, you were doing
little else, as a professional at polishing chain. In that situation, you'd
have been taught how to do it, and quickly learned the safe methods.

Sadly not the case at that place. No training whatsoever by anyone. It was run
by people that knew
very little about jewellery (they were boot makers by trade). All too often they
would over-roll the
wire, and then simply roll the resulting fins back into the wire.......and then
wonder why the links
were producing sharp splinters. I eventually left in disgust when they refused
to learn.

I started work there well after completing my apprenticeship. I was trained as
an in-house jeweller
at a retail store, doing everything from manufacturing most types of jewellery
by hand in metals and
waxes, using the lost-wax cetrifugal casting process, repairing just about any
jewellery related
problem, plating, polishing, etc.

I was employed by the chain mob later down the track as I already had a clue,
compared with the
other guys there who were mostly hacks (with one or two exceptions).

For a
beginning repair jeweler, perhaps one learning on the job without someone to
show them how, the situation might be rather riskier.

While I agree with you that buffing motors can safely be used with chain, that
statement only holds true if the correct procedures are followed.

Yup. As I stated.

A buffing
motor at full speed can be driving the outer surface of a reasonable sized buff
at highway speeds (a five inch buff, for example, is going a bit over 50 mph at
the outer surface). At those speeds, accidents can happen quickly, and
beginners or careless professionals can, and do, get hurt when things catch in
the buff. Most of the most serious accidents I've seen in jewelry shops in the
35 years or so I've been working in them, have been with buffing motors (except
for the one guy working a small stamping press who figured he could increase his
production rate if he defeated the safety switches, and as a result ended up
cutting off the ends of two fingers...) This includes several people (not just
women) who've caught their hair in a buff, and one, polishing a bangle bracelet,
who managed to actually pull an entire finger off, when the bracelet got caught
in the buff, and the cotton glove he was wearing to keep from scratching the
bracelet, got caught between the bracelet and the buff...

Personally I refuse to wear anything on my fingers when polishing. Removes alot
of the feel. Tried
it a few times and each time ditched the idea. Felt too dangerous to me.


Chains can, and do break while being polished. Proper attention must be paid to
how you support and hold the chain while buffing, as well as care in keeping
track of where your hands and fingers are in relation to the work, so that if it
catches and gets away from you, you'll not be hurt.


Agree whole-heartedly

Most pros polish most chains on the full sized buffing motor for it's speed and
superior results. But we all now and then see a chain, or other item of
jewelry, that we know shouldn't be buffed. Experience is a good teacher, but so
is just that gut feeling about a piece that says you are leery of trying to buff
it. If you're not comfortable buffing a piece, be it chain or something else,
then heed that feeling, and do what's needed at the bench with smaller and safer
flex shaft tools or fully hand tools.


Always a wise move. But that's not what I had an issue with. It was more the "DO
NOT use......" tone
of the article.

Dale Porter