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Single Fire Cone 6 Oxidation



 
 
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  #21  
Old November 14th 06, 01:38 AM posted to rec.crafts.pottery
Steve Mills
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 49
Default Attention Steve Mills (and other singel fire players) Single Fire Cone 6 Oxidation

Dear donna,

In article , DKat
writes

Do you think an electric mixer set at very low speed (folding or
breadmaking) would work?


Yes!


I thought I was being very clever and put my bentonite in water before
adding it to the glaze. I'm now de-lumping it by putting batches in my
blender (we are not going to tell spouse and kids this). It makes are
really wonderful goo!


A Blender is my most treasured pottery implement; I now never sieve
small glaze or slip batches when I use it.
What's better is I've now got one with a removable and/or replaceable
blade unit; I've trashed one already and I have 2 spare sets waiting in
the wings!!!!

Steve

--
Steve Mills
Bath
UK
Ads
  #22  
Old November 14th 06, 12:20 PM posted to rec.crafts.pottery
DKat
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 141
Default Attention Steve Mills (and other singel fire players) Single Fire Cone 6 Oxidation


"Steve Mills" wrote in message
...
Dear donna,

In article , DKat
writes
A Blender is my most treasured pottery implement; I now never sieve
small glaze or slip batches when I use it.
What's better is I've now got one with a removable and/or replaceable
blade unit; I've trashed one already and I have 2 spare sets waiting in
the wings!!!!

Steve


http://order.tupperware.com/pls/htpr...gory_code=2000

Don't know if you can see this link - if not go to www.tupperware.com and
search for quickshake. This little sucker actually works. I agree with you
that the blender is a must have tool for making life easier but for batches
of 500 ml or less this works as well AND it has ml measure marks. It was
one of those things that I bought because a friend was having a 'tupperware'
party and I felt required to get something. If they were less expensive I
would get a dozen of them.
Donna


  #23  
Old November 14th 06, 01:10 PM posted to rec.crafts.pottery
Steve Mills
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 49
Default Attention Steve Mills (and other singel fire players) Single Fire Cone 6 Oxidation

That certainly looks pretty useful.

I also have a hand-blender which I use in a small container, though I've
worn it out now; the bearings are screaming!! That was about the same
price as the Tupperware item is in the UK.

Steve


In article , DKat
writes
http://order.tupperware.com/pls/htpr..._detail?fv_ite
m_number=P10035353000&fv_item_category_code=200 0

Don't know if you can see this link - if not go to www.tupperware.com and
search for quickshake. This little sucker actually works. I agree with you
that the blender is a must have tool for making life easier but for batches
of 500 ml or less this works as well AND it has ml measure marks. It was
one of those things that I bought because a friend was having a 'tupperware'
party and I felt required to get something. If they were less expensive I
would get a dozen of them.
Donna



--
Steve Mills
Bath
UK
  #24  
Old November 14th 06, 02:38 PM posted to rec.crafts.pottery
DKat
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 141
Default Attention Steve Mills (and other singel fire players) Single Fire Cone 6 Oxidation

Yeah, the great thing about this little mixer is no moving parts to break
down and it cleans up real easily. It would not mill the larger particles
at all (though I'm not sure a blender does either). I just found it for
less money on Amazon.com.

Donna

"Steve Mills" wrote in message
...
That certainly looks pretty useful.

I also have a hand-blender which I use in a small container, though I've
worn it out now; the bearings are screaming!! That was about the same
price as the Tupperware item is in the UK.

Steve


In article , DKat
writes
http://order.tupperware.com/pls/htpr..._detail?fv_ite
m_number=P10035353000&fv_item_category_code=20 00

Don't know if you can see this link - if not go to www.tupperware.com and
search for quickshake. This little sucker actually works. I agree with
you
that the blender is a must have tool for making life easier but for
batches
of 500 ml or less this works as well AND it has ml measure marks. It was
one of those things that I bought because a friend was having a
'tupperware'
party and I felt required to get something. If they were less expensive I
would get a dozen of them.
Donna



--
Steve Mills
Bath
UK



  #25  
Old November 14th 06, 03:18 PM posted to rec.crafts.pottery
Bob Masta
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 96
Default Attention Steve Mills (and other singel fire players) Single Fire Cone 6 Oxidation

On Tue, 14 Nov 2006 08:38:35 -0500, "DKat"
wrote:

Yeah, the great thing about this little mixer is no moving parts to break
down and it cleans up real easily. It would not mill the larger particles
at all (though I'm not sure a blender does either). I just found it for
less money on Amazon.com.


I have saved old glass peanut butter jars for similar purposes.
They hold 2 cups and have 1/4 cup markings on one side and
1/3 cup on the other, with a metal lid having a rubbery sealer.
I use these in the kitchen all the time for measuring and
shaking things up.

For small glaze test batches (100-200 grams) my favorite is
the new plastic containers that frozen juice concentrates
come in. I go through a lot of Welch's Grape Juice, so there
are always plenty available. These are just the right size to
shake really hard with one hand, holding your thumb over
the lid. Since the containers are abundant and free, I just
mark the top with a felt-tip and store as-is. Later, when
you want to use that glaze, you just shake it up and you
are ready to go. Great for detail brushwork, where you don't
need a large batch in the first place.

There are a couple of caveats: When you initially use the
juice and wash out the container, snap the lid back on
right away. If you store the lid separate from the container,
the plastic apparently shrinks or something and it won't
go back on easily. (You can rejuvenate by running in hot
water for a bit.)

Also, the lid has a pretty fine groove that interlocks with the
lip of the container. Excellent seal when new, but the
groove tends to catch drips of glaze that you have to wipe
out (with difficulty) to insure a good seal. Sometimes when
I open a glaze that I haven't used in many months, the
contents have dried out (slightly or a lot) and need to have
water added. But that is pretty easy.

Hope this helps!


Bob Masta
dqatechATdaqartaDOTcom

D A Q A R T A
Data AcQuisition And Real-Time Analysis
www.daqarta.com
Home of DaqGen, the FREEWARE signal generator
  #26  
Old November 14th 06, 08:46 PM posted to rec.crafts.pottery
DKat
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 99
Default Attention Steve Mills (and other singel fire players) Single Fire Cone 6 Oxidation


"Bob Masta" wrote in message
...

I have saved old glass peanut butter jars for similar purposes.
They hold 2 cups and have 1/4 cup markings on one side and
1/3 cup on the other, with a metal lid having a rubbery sealer.
I use these in the kitchen all the time for measuring and
shaking things up.

For small glaze test batches (100-200 grams) my favorite is
the new plastic containers that frozen juice concentrates
come in. I go through a lot of Welch's Grape Juice, so there
are always plenty available. These are just the right size to
shake really hard with one hand, holding your thumb over
the lid. Since the containers are abundant and free, I just
mark the top with a felt-tip and store as-is. Later, when
you want to use that glaze, you just shake it up and you
are ready to go. Great for detail brushwork, where you don't
need a large batch in the first place.

There are a couple of caveats: When you initially use the
juice and wash out the container, snap the lid back on
right away. If you store the lid separate from the container,
the plastic apparently shrinks or something and it won't
go back on easily. (You can rejuvenate by running in hot
water for a bit.)

Also, the lid has a pretty fine groove that interlocks with the
lip of the container. Excellent seal when new, but the
groove tends to catch drips of glaze that you have to wipe
out (with difficulty) to insure a good seal. Sometimes when
I open a glaze that I haven't used in many months, the
contents have dried out (slightly or a lot) and need to have
water added. But that is pretty easy.

I cannot put a jar in recycling if it has measurement marks. I will buy a
brand I would normally pass by if it is in a glass container with
measurement marks. I have never seen a plastic frozen juice container. I
just know of these little cardboard ones. I'll have to go looking. Locally
I'm known as the odd container lady. I go around to deli's, grocers, bakers
asking for any plastic containers they may have that they are throwing out.
Pickle containers are 5 gallons and come in blue and green. I have
discovered that it is really good to color code your glaze containers for
newbies. The smell of pickles is with you for a really, really long time
but the glaze doesn't seem to mind. Bakers have these great 10 liter
containers for eggs. If you don't get the eggs entirely off it grows a
really nice black mold.

What really works about this litte 'shaker' is that it has 'blades' at the
top and then a dome lid. So if you could join two jars together with a
something between them that acts as blades, and then some way to seal it....
I wonder if just a bit of screen on the top of the jar with some rubber
rings on top of it so there is air space between the screen and the top of
the lid but you still get a tight seal? It really acts like a blender. I
can put dry powder in it that really doesn't want to go into liquid form and
this little sucker turns it into cream.

Donna

P.S. Are you in the U.S? (otherwise I think it will be a fruitless search).


  #27  
Old November 15th 06, 02:54 PM posted to rec.crafts.pottery
Bob Masta
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 96
Default Attention Steve Mills (and other singel fire players) Single Fire Cone 6 Oxidation

On Tue, 14 Nov 2006 14:46:08 -0500, "DKat"
wrote:


"Bob Masta" wrote in message
...

I have saved old glass peanut butter jars for similar purposes.
They hold 2 cups and have 1/4 cup markings on one side and
1/3 cup on the other, with a metal lid having a rubbery sealer.
I use these in the kitchen all the time for measuring and
shaking things up.

For small glaze test batches (100-200 grams) my favorite is
the new plastic containers that frozen juice concentrates
come in. I go through a lot of Welch's Grape Juice, so there
are always plenty available. These are just the right size to
shake really hard with one hand, holding your thumb over
the lid. Since the containers are abundant and free, I just
mark the top with a felt-tip and store as-is. Later, when
you want to use that glaze, you just shake it up and you
are ready to go. Great for detail brushwork, where you don't
need a large batch in the first place.

There are a couple of caveats: When you initially use the
juice and wash out the container, snap the lid back on
right away. If you store the lid separate from the container,
the plastic apparently shrinks or something and it won't
go back on easily. (You can rejuvenate by running in hot
water for a bit.)

Also, the lid has a pretty fine groove that interlocks with the
lip of the container. Excellent seal when new, but the
groove tends to catch drips of glaze that you have to wipe
out (with difficulty) to insure a good seal. Sometimes when
I open a glaze that I haven't used in many months, the
contents have dried out (slightly or a lot) and need to have
water added. But that is pretty easy.

I cannot put a jar in recycling if it has measurement marks. I will buy a
brand I would normally pass by if it is in a glass container with
measurement marks. I have never seen a plastic frozen juice container. I
just know of these little cardboard ones. I'll have to go looking. Locally
I'm known as the odd container lady. I go around to deli's, grocers, bakers
asking for any plastic containers they may have that they are throwing out.
Pickle containers are 5 gallons and come in blue and green. I have
discovered that it is really good to color code your glaze containers for
newbies. The smell of pickles is with you for a really, really long time
but the glaze doesn't seem to mind. Bakers have these great 10 liter
containers for eggs. If you don't get the eggs entirely off it grows a
really nice black mold.

What really works about this litte 'shaker' is that it has 'blades' at the
top and then a dome lid. So if you could join two jars together with a
something between them that acts as blades, and then some way to seal it....
I wonder if just a bit of screen on the top of the jar with some rubber
rings on top of it so there is air space between the screen and the top of
the lid but you still get a tight seal? It really acts like a blender. I
can put dry powder in it that really doesn't want to go into liquid form and
this little sucker turns it into cream.

Donna

P.S. Are you in the U.S? (otherwise I think it will be a fruitless search).


Yep... Ann Arbor, Michigan. All Welch's frozen concentrates
are in plastic now, as far as I can tell, and a few other brands
are moving in that direction as well.

I also am an avid recycler and reuser. One thing you might
want to know about the Welch's containers is that they are
HDPE (number 2 in the little triangle). Now, many community
recycling programs state that only "bottle" shapes are
acceptable in HDPE, not wide-mouth containers. But what
they *really* mean is that they only accept blow-molded
HDPE, which is a slightly different formulation from the
usual wide-mouth. Welch's containers, however, are indeed
blow-molded... you can tell by the parting line. You may have
to prod the authorities a little bit to recognize this, but they now
accept the Welch's containers here. (Or at least they seem
to. They might have told me that to shut me up, and are
still quietly tossing them in the sorting facility.)

Best regards,



Bob Masta
dqatechATdaqartaDOTcom

D A Q A R T A
Data AcQuisition And Real-Time Analysis
www.daqarta.com
Home of DaqGen, the FREEWARE signal generator
  #28  
Old November 19th 06, 12:54 AM posted to rec.crafts.pottery
Elaine Stutt
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 20
Default Attention Steve Mills (and other singel fire players) Single Fire Cone 6 Oxidation

Elaine Stutt ) writes:
"DKat" ) writes:
So heres the deal - most of the glazes I tested worked just fine except for
the lips where at least half of them simply flaked off. I hate to put these
pots through any more stress so I'm going to try painting on the lips a very
thin coat. Do I do this by thinning down the glaze or what? Do I add corn
syrup to the glaze and if so in what ratio? Thanks, Donna


I've done some raw glazing and I took some notes on it from a book.
Naturally, the notes aren't here. I think I remember that for flaking
on the lip, you may need to reformulate the glaze. It may be a
simple change i.e. instead of kaolin use ball clay as it's more elastic.
If the recipe doesn't have kaolin...I'll try and pick up my notes.


Finally found the notes. For crawling on the lip, it suggests a thinner
glaze application. For flaking it doesn't mention lips but for minor
flaking: if the flaking happens when touched, add 3 percent binder;
if it flakes before it's touched add more. Binder I guess means gum,
possibly sugar.

That's from Dennis Parks book on raw glazing.

For myself, I find thickness of glaze a real challenge. I don't
fire that often and if the glaze has evaporated at all it's hard
to figure out how much water to add. I try to document it with
a hydrometer. Note that bisqueware usually wants a thinner glaze,
so you can't use the same vat of glaze for both.

The only time I tried syrup it was icky. But it was for a re-glazing
and I may have used too much.
Elaine


In the refiring, I got uneven areas almost blobs of new glaze on the
old glaze. I could have used to much syrup or it could be that the
two firings were in differant kilns. The second may not have been hot
enough to really melt the glaze smooth. Don't know.

I also have Fran Tristram's "Single Firing" but haven't done any
glazing since I got it. One question for UK posters or for anyone.
The local supplier here in western Canada won't/can't supply any
lead frits or bi-silicates. Every low-fire glaze in the above book
has lead. It seems to be a current book, c'96. Is lead use still
common in the UK? In the rest of North America?

Well, common for small functional potters, common for sculpture,
common in universities? I get the impression that other frits
have taken over.

Elaine
  #29  
Old November 19th 06, 02:14 AM posted to rec.crafts.pottery
DKat
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 141
Default Attention Steve Mills (and other singel fire players) Single Fire Cone 6 Oxidation


"Elaine Stutt" wrote in message
...
Elaine Stutt ) writes:
"DKat" ) writes:
So heres the deal - most of the glazes I tested worked just fine except
for
the lips where at least half of them simply flaked off. I hate to put
these
pots through any more stress so I'm going to try painting on the lips a
very
thin coat. Do I do this by thinning down the glaze or what? Do I add
corn
syrup to the glaze and if so in what ratio? Thanks, Donna


I've done some raw glazing and I took some notes on it from a book.
Naturally, the notes aren't here. I think I remember that for flaking
on the lip, you may need to reformulate the glaze. It may be a
simple change i.e. instead of kaolin use ball clay as it's more elastic.
If the recipe doesn't have kaolin...I'll try and pick up my notes.


Finally found the notes. For crawling on the lip, it suggests a thinner
glaze application. For flaking it doesn't mention lips but for minor
flaking: if the flaking happens when touched, add 3 percent binder;
if it flakes before it's touched add more. Binder I guess means gum,
possibly sugar.

That's from Dennis Parks book on raw glazing.

For myself, I find thickness of glaze a real challenge. I don't
fire that often and if the glaze has evaporated at all it's hard
to figure out how much water to add. I try to document it with
a hydrometer. Note that bisqueware usually wants a thinner glaze,
so you can't use the same vat of glaze for both.

The only time I tried syrup it was icky. But it was for a re-glazing
and I may have used too much.
Elaine


In the refiring, I got uneven areas almost blobs of new glaze on the
old glaze. I could have used to much syrup or it could be that the
two firings were in differant kilns. The second may not have been hot
enough to really melt the glaze smooth. Don't know.

I also have Fran Tristram's "Single Firing" but haven't done any
glazing since I got it. One question for UK posters or for anyone.
The local supplier here in western Canada won't/can't supply any
lead frits or bi-silicates. Every low-fire glaze in the above book
has lead. It seems to be a current book, c'96. Is lead use still
common in the UK? In the rest of North America?

Well, common for small functional potters, common for sculpture,
common in universities? I get the impression that other frits
have taken over.

Elaine


I had no idea that anyone still used lead glazes (though I have heard of
frits that supposedly encapsulate it and cadmium successfully).

Thank you for hunting that information down for me! I just got Dennis
Parks' book and have been reading it. It is useful of course but it has
conflicting information and doesn't seem to cover the issues that I'm
having. I have decided that I probably glazed too late in the leather hard
state because the glaze is very solid except for the lips. I have been
trying any number of things to recover those pots, which has been a learning
experience in itself. I really do like the feel of doing things this way.
I think it is going to take awhile to develop the glazes I want and to learn
the skills but it is definitely the way I want to go. The only problem with
learning this skill is that I can't chuck the pot back into recycling -
perhaps break them up and use them for mosaics?

I tried the syrup and I have one word for it - YUCK!! I still have it
dripping off the pot I tried it on even after re-glazing. I'm afraid to put
it in the kiln.

Thanks again. I'm really hoping to get this kiln fired soon so I can see if
there are any successes.

Donna


  #30  
Old November 19th 06, 10:45 AM posted to rec.crafts.pottery
Susie
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 26
Default Attention Steve Mills (and other singel fire players) Single Fire Cone 6 Oxidation

In message , DKat
writes
I had no idea that anyone still used lead glazes (though I have heard of
frits that supposedly encapsulate it and cadmium successfully).

I do use commercially prepared lead glazes. Years ago I had a
discussion about them with our local Trading Standards. The conclusion
was that no body is going to put food anywhere near anything I make.
Dragons' wings soup bowls - I don't think so ;-)) I don't make
anything that in any way can be called functional. However, at the time
some of the tableware being used in Chinese restaurants had glazes
containing lead, which failed the lead release tests. I'm just very
careful when and how I use the lead. My main reason for still using it
is the brilliance of colour responses.

I use a tin white for the porcelain as well. I haven't been through
college and don't know a thing about glaze chemistry. It's like buying
a cake mix to me. Off the shelf, follow the instructions, cook to the
recommended temperature. Et voila!

Susie
--
Susie Thompson
If you can't stand the heat, don't tickle the dragon!
to email me, replace deadspam.com with susiethompson.co.uk
 




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