Accidentally left piece on hoop-- is it ruined?

I just went to take out a cross stitch piece I started in October that I didn't
pick up at all during November (due to National Novel Writing Month) and
realized that I left it in the drawer on the hoop for the entire month. I am
not very far along in the piece at all, so if I had to start over I could, but
the background fabric I got is perfect (hand-dyed one of a kind) and I'd prefer
not to have to start that search again.

Will this piece be ruined, or will it be possible to get the hoop marks out
when I iron and/or wash it? The piece is the nativity scene from the November
issue of Cross Stitch Collection, and I"ve been waiting to start if for an
entire year. (They printed a promo of it this time last year and then never
ran the chart.)

Rest assured, those hoop marks can be easily and safely removed.

If you wash it or soak it thoroughly (not a quick swish in water).

Is the ground cotton or a manmade blend? Then use a medium hot iron
with lots of steam (cotton) - a tad cooler if blended, though I use a
hotter iron than most folks might dare. Iron after towel drying.

If the ground is linen, you MUST iron it with the degree of wetness
right after rolling in a towel. And the iron must be on the hottest
setting possible. (Many modern irons don't get hot enough for linen).

Iron with the embroidery face down (just in case you forgot about that
hint), on a thick terry towel folded double or triple so that the
embroidery will pop right off that ground.

IF the hoop marks are stubborn (they shouldn't be), then thoroughly soak
in water for up to three days to rehydrate the fabric.

Dianne

Mmeindia wrote:
I just went to take out a cross stitch piece I started in October that I didn't
pick up at all during November (due to National Novel Writing Month) and
realized that I left it in the drawer on the hoop for the entire month. I am
not very far along in the piece at all, so if I had to start over I could, but
the background fabric I got is perfect (hand-dyed one of a kind) and I'd prefer
not to have to start that search again.

Will this piece be ruined, or will it be possible to get the hoop marks out
when I iron and/or wash it? The piece is the nativity scene from the November
issue of Cross Stitch Collection, and I"ve been waiting to start if for an
entire year. (They printed a promo of it this time last year and then never
ran the chart.)

but
the background fabric I got is perfect (hand-dyed one of a kind)

It depends entirely on the fabric. A lot of hand dyed fabrics are not washable
without bleeding. If you have a big enough piece you could try cutting a bit
and seeing how it behaves when wet. Otherwise I would try ironing with a dry
(no steam) iron.
Good luck!

Sara
WIPS: ?

licated (Mmeindia) had some very interesting things
to say about Accidentally left piece on hoop-- is it ruined?:

Will this piece be ruined, or will it be possible to get the hoop marks out
when I iron and/or wash it? The piece is the nativity scene from the November
issue of Cross Stitch Collection, and I"ve been waiting to start if for an
entire year. (They printed a promo of it this time last year and then never
ran the chart.)

IME, just about any wrinkles come out fine when I do the iron/press
dry routine, but I haven't used any easily-melted stuff, so can use
cotten temperatures for pressing.

That reminds me: is rayon going to be a problem to iron, as far as
melting? My current project involves cotton and rayon flosses with
Kreinik braid on Jobelan.

--
"The universe is quite robust in design and appears to be
doing just fine on its own, incompetent support staff notwithstanding.
:-)" - the Dennis formerly known as (evil), MCFL

In article , Seanette Blaylock
writes:

That reminds me: is rayon going to be a problem to iron, as far as
melting?

Short Answer:
Your Needlework Pressing System probably has a setting for Rayon, which is
lower than the Cotton setting. That probably means you'll have to press a
little longer than you would on the higher heat, but it will eventually get
flat.

Long Answer:
Jo passed this along from her Crazy Quilt list, and I'll repeat it in full.

Rayon is the oldest man-made fiber. The process of creating viscose rayon
from plants was discovered in 1891! Despite being "man-made", rayon is
composed of cellulose. This means that it is made from plants!
Specifically, viscose rayon, which is the type of rayon that our embroidery
threads are made from, is made of highly-processed plant fibers, which the
textile industry calls "regenerated cellulose". I think of viscose rayon
as
being the "Velveeta Cheese" of the thread world.

In chemical soups that would thrill the most avid scientist, plant fiber is
converted to a thick liquid, called "viscose". Once the right amount and
types of chemical bonds have formed, bark and non-soluble plant material
has
been eliminated, and air bubbles have been gotten rid of, the thick liquid
is extruded through something like a huge pasta-making machine. This
"rayon
spaghetti" is our rayon filament. These rayon filaments are much like silk
filaments. They are round, continuous, smooth, and therefore very shiny.
After being washed, the filaments are cut and can be used in the textile
industry.

The filaments can be dyed, as rayon accepts dyes very well, as we all know!
The rayon filaments can be spun with silk and plied to create artsilks like
Rajmahal and Cifonda brand artsilks also called rayon floss. These are
used
primarily for thread painting embroidery where their high sheen is desired.
These are extremely fine threads where two strands of artsilk equals one
strand of cotton floss. Slightly dampening these, using short lengths, and
retaining a constant tension on the stitch will control them.

Or, the rayon filaments can be spun and plied, then 2 or 3 twisted together
to create EdMar's 7 varieties of Z-twisted rayon threads. These are used
for dimensional embroidery and as an inexpensive substitute for silk twist.
These can be controlled by stretching the thread slightly until it "gives".
It then becomes manageable to use while retaining its other stitching
characteristics.

Unless you're planning to bake your thread, breaking shouldn't be a
problem.
The problems of breaking depend upon the quality of the spinning and
drawing
processes through which the viscose progresses. Viscose rayon loses
strength above 149° C; chars and decomposes at 177 to 204° C. It does not
melt or stick at elevated temperatures. Hot dilute acids attack rayon,
whereas bases do not seem to significantly attack rayon. Rayon is attacked
by bleaches at very high concentrations and by mildew under severe hot and
moist conditions. Prolonged exposure to sunlight causes loss of strength
because of degradation of cellulose chains, so it is wise to keep rayon
embroidery out of direct sunlight. Rayon resists pill formation, making it
a
good thread to use for frequently-washed home linens, where pearl cotton
would pill. Rayon threads stretch from 10 to 30% while dry before breaking;
and stretch 15 to 40% while wet before breaking.

Rayon is used in lots of our homes as non-woven drier sheets and
tampons/pads; as textiles like bedspreads, sheets, curtains, etc. and in
clothing.

No, I don't know what setting on your Needlework Pressing System corresponds to
what temperature. Ask the manufacturer.





--
Finished 11/17/04 - Pets are People Too
WIP: Fireman's Prayer (#2), Amid Amish Life, Angel of Autumn, Calif Sampler,
Holiday Snowglobe

Paralegal - Writer - Editor - Researcher
http://hometown.aol.com/kmc528/KMC.html

I think of viscose rayon
as
being the "Velveeta Cheese" of the thread world.

Ah. That must be why though I'm drawn to its lovely shininess, it is evil (like
Velveeta) and must be resisted at all costs!

Thanks for the rayon lecture. It was very interesting. But I think I'll still
stay away from the slippery stuff.
Donna @ West Point

to view my blog - http://majtravaux.blogspot.brain.com/
remove brain

Boredom is a choice, not a circumstance.

You need to use a pressing cloth when ironing rayon. The hot iron directly
on it will cause rayon to melt.

Janet


"Seanette Blaylock" wrote in
message ...
licated (Mmeindia) had some very interesting things
to say about Accidentally left piece on hoop-- is it ruined?:

Will this piece be ruined, or will it be possible to get the hoop marks
out
when I iron and/or wash it? The piece is the nativity scene from the
November
issue of Cross Stitch Collection, and I"ve been waiting to start if for
an
entire year. (They printed a promo of it this time last year and then
never
ran the chart.)

IME, just about any wrinkles come out fine when I do the iron/press
dry routine, but I haven't used any easily-melted stuff, so can use
cotten temperatures for pressing.

That reminds me: is rayon going to be a problem to iron, as far as
melting? My current project involves cotton and rayon flosses with
Kreinik braid on Jobelan.

--
"The universe is quite robust in design and appears to be
doing just fine on its own, incompetent support staff notwithstanding.
:-)" - the Dennis formerly known as (evil), MCFL

had some very interesting things to say
about Accidentally left piece on hoop-- is it ruined?:

You need to use a pressing cloth when ironing rayon. The hot iron directly
on it will cause rayon to melt.

Thanks for the heads-up, especially with a project that's going to be
a gift and on a tight deadline. CANNOT afford disaster here.

--
"The universe is quite robust in design and appears to be
doing just fine on its own, incompetent support staff notwithstanding.
:-)" - the Dennis formerly known as (evil), MCFL

Dianne Lewandowski wrote:

If the ground is linen, you MUST iron it with the degree of wetness
right after rolling in a towel. And the iron must be on the hottest
setting possible. (Many modern irons don't get hot enough for linen).

How would you recommend ironing a trapunto'ed linen piece? Stuffed with
wool. Stitched with linen. I'm not at the point where it's time to clean
the monster, but I'm curious. I have spilled things and cat-haired it,
so it's gotta get *cleaned* when done. I'm thinking best bet is dry it
flat (or hanging), and then see if it will need ironing, but it will
probably end up looking better for seeing an iron.

Yes, I'll post pics when done.

-georg

wrote:

You need to use a pressing cloth when ironing rayon. The hot iron directly
on it will cause rayon to melt.

Not melt. Rayon is not plastic. It will not melt.

Char, perhaps. Rayon is cellulose. Like paper, and cotton.
--
Jenn Ridley :
WIP: Art Stitch Rose Trio, Emperor's Coat, Carousel, Halloween Circle
Most recently Finished: Always be a Wildflower, FrankenFlora, Romance