glass color change

I am just learning to make glass beads. I have been using glass scraps
that are left over from the stained glass windows and crafts I have
been making. I am wondering why my beads are not the same color as the
glass scraps. I started out with a very beautiful and vibrant red
glass and when my beads cooled they were a very ugly gray color with a
slight bit of the red color showing in some places. I used two
different kinds of red glass and this happened each time. Some of my
beads broke and they were red on the inside. the gray only shows up in
a thin layer on the outside. Am I doing something wrong? What could be
causing this?
Crystal

"calford" wrote in message ...

I am just learning to make glass beads. I have been using
glass scraps
that are left over from the stained glass windows and crafts
I have
been making. I am wondering why my beads are not the same
color as the
glass scraps. I started out with a very beautiful and vibrant
red
glass and when my beads cooled they were a very ugly gray
color with a
slight bit of the red color showing in some places. I used
two
different kinds of red glass and this happened each time.
Some of my
beads broke and they were red on the inside. the gray only
shows up in
a thin layer on the outside. Am I doing something wrong? What
could be
causing this?


Hi Crystal,

Unfortunately red glass tends to be the most sensitive colour
as far as over-heating, over-working and scorching. Sucks, eh?
I too have some of those red/grey beads. sigh

The other thing is that different types of glass have different
coefficients of expansion (COE) which means that they melt and
solidify at different temperatures. This is why you can't mix
some of the more well-known glass types together. For example
you can't mix borosilicate glass with Moretti glass. Unless
you are using all one known COE for your stained glass you are
going to continue getting broken beads. Sorry to say that you
are going to have to stick with beads made from single colours
made from the same sheet of stained glass unless you know for
sure that you have one type of glass with a stated COE (ex.
Bullseye glass some use for fusing should be okay with Bullseye
glass rods for lampworking).

Does this help at all?


- Sandy

It sounds as if you may be working on a Hot Head torch... is this the
case? If so, what's happening is due to the low amount of oxygen present
in the Hod Head's flame; it's called "reduction", and it draws a layer
of metals to the surface of the glass. This *can* be pretty, with some
glasses, but with others it resuls in an ugly grey or, on blues, a
brick-red color. You may be able to avoid it by turning your flame down
slightly and working an inch or so farther out in the flame. You can
also be literally scorching your glass by working too close to the torch
head, but because it's all on the outside surface, I'd be willing to
bet it's reduction. If you're using an oxy-propane torch, simply turn
your propane down a little so your oxygen is a higher proportion of the
flame.

As Sandy said, not all glasses are compatible, but if you know the
makers of your scrap, you will be fairly safe keeping Bullseye (COE 90)
with Bullseye and Spectrum (COE96) with Spectrum. Uroboros is more of a
PITA because they make both COE 90 and COE 96 glass, and the others I
don't know from Adam.

-Kalera
http://www.beadwife.com
http://www.snipurl.com/kebay


calford wrote:
I am just learning to make glass beads. I have been using glass scraps
that are left over from the stained glass windows and crafts I have
been making. I am wondering why my beads are not the same color as the
glass scraps. I started out with a very beautiful and vibrant red
glass and when my beads cooled they were a very ugly gray color with a
slight bit of the red color showing in some places. I used two
different kinds of red glass and this happened each time. Some of my
beads broke and they were red on the inside. the gray only shows up in
a thin layer on the outside. Am I doing something wrong? What could be
causing this?
Crystal

I think you already have good information on reduction in red glass. Red is
always a PITA. I love it though and I work with it a lot. You just have to
work it very cool and not get it boiling.

Kalera pointed out that there are different types of glass and some of them
aren't the same COEs. I usually test them first. I usually make a test
bead with the colors I want. That's not to say that I don't usually stick
to Bullseye to Bullseye or Spectrum to Spectrum, but some of the glass I
can't remember and so I test.

I try to keep the different manufacturers separated in sheet glass, but I
definitely have them separate in rod form. Even if they are compatible with
Moretti I keep them in their own containers.

Have fun and let us know if you have any problems or any good items as well.

Starlia



"calford" wrote in message
m...
I am just learning to make glass beads. I have been using glass scraps
that are left over from the stained glass windows and crafts I have
been making. I am wondering why my beads are not the same color as the
glass scraps. I started out with a very beautiful and vibrant red
glass and when my beads cooled they were a very ugly gray color with a
slight bit of the red color showing in some places. I used two
different kinds of red glass and this happened each time. Some of my
beads broke and they were red on the inside. the gray only shows up in
a thin layer on the outside. Am I doing something wrong? What could be
causing this?
Crystal

Starlia,
How do you test your glass to make sure it has the same COE when you don't
know for sure it is compatible?
Roxan
"starlia" wrote in message
...
I think you already have good information on reduction in red glass. Red
is
always a PITA. I love it though and I work with it a lot. You just have
to
work it very cool and not get it boiling.

Kalera pointed out that there are different types of glass and some of
them
aren't the same COEs. I usually test them first. I usually make a test
bead with the colors I want. That's not to say that I don't usually stick
to Bullseye to Bullseye or Spectrum to Spectrum, but some of the glass I
can't remember and so I test.

I try to keep the different manufacturers separated in sheet glass, but I
definitely have them separate in rod form. Even if they are compatible
with
Moretti I keep them in their own containers.

Have fun and let us know if you have any problems or any good items as
well.

Starlia



"calford" wrote in message
m...
I am just learning to make glass beads. I have been using glass scraps
that are left over from the stained glass windows and crafts I have
been making. I am wondering why my beads are not the same color as the
glass scraps. I started out with a very beautiful and vibrant red
glass and when my beads cooled they were a very ugly gray color with a
slight bit of the red color showing in some places. I used two
different kinds of red glass and this happened each time. Some of my
beads broke and they were red on the inside. the gray only shows up in
a thin layer on the outside. Am I doing something wrong? What could be
causing this?
Crystal

I can do the stretch test when molten. If it makes a certain arch it isn't
compatible. I would have to find old posts on WC to find the angle.

My favorite way is to make several test beads and if they break then the
glass isn't compatible. Since they can break after annealing I give it a
few weeks. In the meantime, all the test glass was marked so I can
reference the beads.

Most of my sheet glass is BE. Very little is Spectrum, although I like that
glass. My main supplier only sells BE in sheet so it's not a huge problem.
Still, I make sure I test most of my non-fusable glass. I used to purchase
a lot of fusable glass, but I'd rather save the bucks and test.
"roxan" wrote in message
...
Starlia,
How do you test your glass to make sure it has the same COE when you don't
know for sure it is compatible?
Roxan
"starlia" wrote in message
...
I think you already have good information on reduction in red glass.
Red
is
always a PITA. I love it though and I work with it a lot. You just
have
to
work it very cool and not get it boiling.

Kalera pointed out that there are different types of glass and some of
them
aren't the same COEs. I usually test them first. I usually make a test
bead with the colors I want. That's not to say that I don't usually
stick
to Bullseye to Bullseye or Spectrum to Spectrum, but some of the glass I
can't remember and so I test.

I try to keep the different manufacturers separated in sheet glass, but
I
definitely have them separate in rod form. Even if they are compatible
with
Moretti I keep them in their own containers.

Have fun and let us know if you have any problems or any good items as
well.

Starlia



"calford" wrote in message
m...
I am just learning to make glass beads. I have been using glass scraps
that are left over from the stained glass windows and crafts I have
been making. I am wondering why my beads are not the same color as the
glass scraps. I started out with a very beautiful and vibrant red
glass and when my beads cooled they were a very ugly gray color with a
slight bit of the red color showing in some places. I used two
different kinds of red glass and this happened each time. Some of my
beads broke and they were red on the inside. the gray only shows up in
a thin layer on the outside. Am I doing something wrong? What could be
causing this?
Crystal

Thanks Starlia.
Roxan
"starlia" wrote in message
...
I can do the stretch test when molten. If it makes a certain arch it
isn't
compatible. I would have to find old posts on WC to find the angle.

My favorite way is to make several test beads and if they break then the
glass isn't compatible. Since they can break after annealing I give it a
few weeks. In the meantime, all the test glass was marked so I can
reference the beads.

Most of my sheet glass is BE. Very little is Spectrum, although I like
that
glass. My main supplier only sells BE in sheet so it's not a huge
problem.
Still, I make sure I test most of my non-fusable glass. I used to
purchase
a lot of fusable glass, but I'd rather save the bucks and test.
"roxan" wrote in message
...
Starlia,
How do you test your glass to make sure it has the same COE when you
don't
know for sure it is compatible?
Roxan
"starlia" wrote in message
...
I think you already have good information on reduction in red glass.
Red
is
always a PITA. I love it though and I work with it a lot. You just
have
to
work it very cool and not get it boiling.

Kalera pointed out that there are different types of glass and some of
them
aren't the same COEs. I usually test them first. I usually make a
test
bead with the colors I want. That's not to say that I don't usually
stick
to Bullseye to Bullseye or Spectrum to Spectrum, but some of the glass
I
can't remember and so I test.

I try to keep the different manufacturers separated in sheet glass,
but
I
definitely have them separate in rod form. Even if they are
compatible
with
Moretti I keep them in their own containers.

Have fun and let us know if you have any problems or any good items as
well.

Starlia



"calford" wrote in message
m...
I am just learning to make glass beads. I have been using glass
scraps
that are left over from the stained glass windows and crafts I have
been making. I am wondering why my beads are not the same color as
the
glass scraps. I started out with a very beautiful and vibrant red
glass and when my beads cooled they were a very ugly gray color with
a
slight bit of the red color showing in some places. I used two
different kinds of red glass and this happened each time. Some of my
beads broke and they were red on the inside. the gray only shows up
in
a thin layer on the outside. Am I doing something wrong? What could
be
causing this?
Crystal

"roxan" wrote in message ...
Thanks Starlia.
Roxan
"starlia" wrote in message
...
I can do the stretch test when molten. If it makes a certain arch it
isn't
compatible. I would have to find old posts on WC to find the angle.

My favorite way is to make several test beads and if they break then the
glass isn't compatible. Since they can break after annealing I give it a
few weeks. In the meantime, all the test glass was marked so I can
reference the beads.

Most of my sheet glass is BE. Very little is Spectrum, although I like
that
glass. My main supplier only sells BE in sheet so it's not a huge
problem.
Still, I make sure I test most of my non-fusable glass. I used to
purchase
a lot of fusable glass, but I'd rather save the bucks and test.
"roxan" wrote in message
...
Starlia,
How do you test your glass to make sure it has the same COE when you
don't
know for sure it is compatible?
Roxan
"starlia" wrote in message
...
I think you already have good information on reduction in red glass.
Red
is
always a PITA. I love it though and I work with it a lot. You just
have
to
work it very cool and not get it boiling.

Kalera pointed out that there are different types of glass and some of
them
aren't the same COEs. I usually test them first. I usually make a
test
bead with the colors I want. That's not to say that I don't usually
stick
to Bullseye to Bullseye or Spectrum to Spectrum, but some of the glass
I
can't remember and so I test.

I try to keep the different manufacturers separated in sheet glass,
but
I
definitely have them separate in rod form. Even if they are
compatible
with
Moretti I keep them in their own containers.

Have fun and let us know if you have any problems or any good items as
well.

Starlia



"calford" wrote in message
m...
I am just learning to make glass beads. I have been using glass
scraps
that are left over from the stained glass windows and crafts I have
been making. I am wondering why my beads are not the same color as
the
glass scraps. I started out with a very beautiful and vibrant red
glass and when my beads cooled they were a very ugly gray color with
a
slight bit of the red color showing in some places. I used two
different kinds of red glass and this happened each time. Some of my
beads broke and they were red on the inside. the gray only shows up
in
a thin layer on the outside. Am I doing something wrong? What could
be
causing this?
Crystal

Thanks to all of you for your help. I'm also just learning how
to use the group sites to ask questions and find information so bear
with me. I probably am holding my bead too close to the torch. I have
had other problems because of this. How do I know what kind of torch
head I have? It came in a kit for making beads. I have a little knob
on the silver part of my torch head that I can turn to let more air in
but I'm not sure how to use it properly. So far I have just kept it
closed. I experimented with it once by opening it to different degrees
but then I had trouble just forming a bead. The kit instructions did
not explain it at all. I know that the glass I am using so far is all
spectrum. I get the ugly gray even when I do not mix colors though. I
have also used a tan glass (spectrum also) and my finished bead was
mostly black. It was beautiful but not what I expected. Is it common
to get a different color than what I started with or is it my
technique? Also My kit did not come with tinted glasses. I have been
using regular safety glasses. Do I need tinted glasses to protect my
eyes or just to be able to see what I am doing better. Thanks again,
Crystal

Sounds like you have a QT/Fireworks torch... you will have better result
if you keep that little air valve open all the time. Color changes are
common with some glasses, but are often the result of overheating or
exposure to a reduction (oxygen poor) flame. Do work farther out in the
flame, and you may also get better results by turning your flame down a
bit altogether.

You don't need tinted glasses to protect your vision from permanent harm
with that particular torch, but they can help prevent eyestrain. If you
find yourself headachy after torching, that can be a cause, and you may
want to pop the $30 for some AUR-92's (www.auralens.com). Otherwise,
clear safety glasses are just fine.

-Kalera
http://www.beadwife.com
http://www.snipurl.com/kebay


calford wrote:

Thanks to all of you for your help. I'm also just learning how

to use the group sites to ask questions and find information so bear
with me. I probably am holding my bead too close to the torch. I have
had other problems because of this. How do I know what kind of torch
head I have? It came in a kit for making beads. I have a little knob
on the silver part of my torch head that I can turn to let more air in
but I'm not sure how to use it properly. So far I have just kept it
closed. I experimented with it once by opening it to different degrees
but then I had trouble just forming a bead. The kit instructions did
not explain it at all. I know that the glass I am using so far is all
spectrum. I get the ugly gray even when I do not mix colors though. I
have also used a tan glass (spectrum also) and my finished bead was
mostly black. It was beautiful but not what I expected. Is it common
to get a different color than what I started with or is it my
technique? Also My kit did not come with tinted glasses. I have been
using regular safety glasses. Do I need tinted glasses to protect my
eyes or just to be able to see what I am doing better. Thanks again,
Crystal