Tabletop finish

I've built several benches to do stained glass on. They aren't
anything fancy, just built out of 2x4s and plywood. The work surfaces
are 3/4" finish plywood. Before they get soaked in flux, sweat, and
beer, is there a good finish to use for wood surfaces used for stained
glass work? I'm sorta thinking that it's best left unfinished, but if
there is a good finish, now's the time.

Thanks, Michael

I had some SherwinWilliams clear acrylic industrial finish that I put on
some worktables in my warmglass shop. It sure looks good and seems to be
holding up well. It was left over from a couple of restain/refinish jobs
we did, at at $105/gal I decided not to let it go to waste.

"Michael" wrote in message
oups.com...
I've built several benches to do stained glass on. They aren't
anything fancy, just built out of 2x4s and plywood. The work surfaces
are 3/4" finish plywood. Before they get soaked in flux, sweat, and
beer, is there a good finish to use for wood surfaces used for stained
glass work? I'm sorta thinking that it's best left unfinished, but if
there is a good finish, now's the time.

Thanks, Michael

you might lay a piece of sheetrock on top. it makes a great cutting surface
and soaks up all those liquids. It also is impervious to the soldering heat.
m

"Michael" wrote in message
oups.com...
I've built several benches to do stained glass on. They aren't
anything fancy, just built out of 2x4s and plywood. The work surfaces
are 3/4" finish plywood. Before they get soaked in flux, sweat, and
beer, is there a good finish to use for wood surfaces used for stained
glass work? I'm sorta thinking that it's best left unfinished, but if
there is a good finish, now's the time.

Thanks, Michael

On Nov 12, 4:28 pm, Michael wrote:
I've built several benches to do stained glass on. They aren't
anything fancy, just built out of 2x4s and plywood. The work surfaces
are 3/4" finish plywood. Before they get soaked in flux, sweat, and
beer, is there a good finish to use for wood surfaces used for stained
glass work? I'm sorta thinking that it's best left unfinished, but if
there is a good finish, now's the time.

Thanks, Michael

Get a bunch of particle board cut up into different sizes and use
those as your work boards. It's so much easier to turn projects over
and move them out of the way. I never build anything directly on my
worktables.

Moonraker wrote:

I had some SherwinWilliams clear acrylic industrial finish that I put
on some worktables in my warmglass shop. It sure looks good and seems
to be holding up well. It was left over from a couple of restain/
refinish jobs we did, at at $105/gal I decided not to let it go to
waste.

*************
At that kinda price I'd be wanting to do shots. I'll be back down
your way here in a couple months, Moonraker. If your offer for a
visit still stands, I will try and make it by. It's always refreshing
and inspirational to see quality work and meet the people who do it.

Michael

Michele wrote:

you might lay a piece of sheetrock on top. it makes a great cutting
surface and soaks up all those liquids. It also is impervious to the
soldering heat.

***************
Thank you for the suggestion, Michele. That is a great idea. The
owner of Southern Glass down in Jacksonville recommended that, too,
but I had associated it pretty much with assembling came panels, and
didn't have it figured as a full-service top. I'm going to raise the
floor about a half-inch with something easy to stand on. That means
the drywall on top would maintain the relative bench height.

Michael

Chemo the Clown wrote:

Get a bunch of particle board cut up into different sizes and use
those as your work boards. It's so much easier to turn projects over
and move them out of the way. I never build anything directly on my
worktables.

*****************
I need to do that for sure. Right now I'm cutting and laying the
pieces out on the pattern on top of a couple sheets of cardboard.
I've had to move my two lamp-halves several times now, and every time
I move them I shudder at the thought of the cardboard buckling or me
dropping it. I've thought about numbering every piece against that
occasion, but that's an extra step I'd rather avoid.

Thank you for the suggestion, Chemo.

Michael

On Nov 13, 2:19 pm, Michael wrote:
Michele wrote:

you might lay a piece of sheetrock on top. it makes a great cutting
surface and soaks up all those liquids. It also is impervious to the
soldering heat.

***************
Thank you for the suggestion, Michele. That is a great idea. The
owner of Southern Glass down in Jacksonville recommended that, too,
but I had associated it pretty much with assembling came panels, and
didn't have it figured as a full-service top. I'm going to raise the
floor about a half-inch with something easy to stand on. That means
the drywall on top would maintain the relative bench height.

Michael

Me, personally..I don't like drywall. Chalk gets all over the place
and you must tape the edges to try and keep them from just crumbling
apart. I never like the way the nails held in dryall either. Particle
board takes lots of abuse. Most work boards I have are almost 15 years
old. Plus, it's alot more sturdy to transport panels.

BTW...Larry the Cable Guy just became a father. Baby girl. Said to
look just like Phil Collins. Weighed in at 6 lbs 14 oz which is just
two pounds under what Nichole Richie weighed last week.

I'm standing by. Let me know a few days in advance.
"Michael" wrote in message
ups.com...
Moonraker wrote:

I had some SherwinWilliams clear acrylic industrial finish that I put
on some worktables in my warmglass shop. It sure looks good and seems
to be holding up well. It was left over from a couple of restain/
refinish jobs we did, at at $105/gal I decided not to let it go to
waste.

*************
At that kinda price I'd be wanting to do shots. I'll be back down
your way here in a couple months, Moonraker. If your offer for a
visit still stands, I will try and make it by. It's always refreshing
and inspirational to see quality work and meet the people who do it.

Michael

i don't use nails, just push pins on straight edges so they are perfect w/
drywall, and a full sheet is wrapped on the edges so no chalky
aftertaste???? m

"Chemo the Clown" wrote in message
ups.com...
On Nov 13, 2:19 pm, Michael wrote:
Michele wrote:

you might lay a piece of sheetrock on top. it makes a great cutting
surface and soaks up all those liquids. It also is impervious to the
soldering heat.

***************
Thank you for the suggestion, Michele. That is a great idea. The
owner of Southern Glass down in Jacksonville recommended that, too,
but I had associated it pretty much with assembling came panels, and
didn't have it figured as a full-service top. I'm going to raise the
floor about a half-inch with something easy to stand on. That means
the drywall on top would maintain the relative bench height.

Michael

Me, personally..I don't like drywall. Chalk gets all over the place
and you must tape the edges to try and keep them from just crumbling
apart. I never like the way the nails held in dryall either. Particle
board takes lots of abuse. Most work boards I have are almost 15 years
old. Plus, it's alot more sturdy to transport panels.

BTW...Larry the Cable Guy just became a father. Baby girl. Said to
look just like Phil Collins. Weighed in at 6 lbs 14 oz which is just
two pounds under what Nichole Richie weighed last week.