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#21
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Bernette 410 -- stitch length problems
I have both of these gadgets and would never think of sewing thick items
without one or the other. Emily |
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#22
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Bernette 410 -- stitch length problems
In article YdGJg.9310$p23.3738@trnddc04,
Taria wrote: I'll never get rid of my 930. It is a dream of a machine. See what I mean, OP? I can't imagine ever parting with mine either. It makes the nicest zz sitiches. 830's are great machines also and go used for a little less. They are both tough models to find since people don't want to give them up once they have them! btw, mine is able to stay in reverse. How do you get it to stay in reverse? -- I fear me you but warm the starved snake Who, cherished in your breasts, will sting your hearts. (Henry VI,Shakespeare) |
#23
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Bernette 410 -- stitch length problems
Betty Vereen Hill wrote: wrote in message oups.com... Use a hump-jumper on thick seams. Do NOT pull the fabric through, as you will break needles, and likely throw the timing off. Please excuse my ignorance. Just what is a hump-jumper? I've fought with my share of thick seams, but I've never known that there might be something that would alleviate the problem. My pitiful Singer 5050 pales in comparison to the fabulous machines many of you command. I really hate to admit it - I have pulled the fabric through when fighting with a thick seam. Is there relief in my future? Betty in Georgia --- I must confess, Betty: I made my own hump-jumper. Took 3 or 4 of those thick cards that packaged binding and trim come wrapped around, cut and taped the cards together (used wide package tape) so that each side has a different thickness on it's edge. Works pretty well, and when I mis-place it, I grab another chunk of thick cardboard, fold it in half, and use it. Sometimes I use a face plate from my machine, but I don't advise it, as it might put dings in the plate. Cea |
#24
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Bernette 410 -- stitch length problems
Kay Lancaster wrote:
Since I lose plastic doodads with great frequency (and sewing with a kitten helping doesn't increase the odds that plastic doodads remain on the sewing table), I tried Louise Cutting's method: find a piece of the garment similar in weight to the thick spot, and use that as a hump jumper. Works well for me. I think we must all be very good at re-inventing the wheel. For many years, whenever I have shortened jeans for DD, I have used the cut off section of the hem as a "hump jumper". I just never called it that.... I even save a few of them in case a re-hemming doesn't require cutting off the full depth of the old hem. Beverly |
#25
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Bernette 410 -- stitch length problems
BEI Design wrote:
Kay Lancaster wrote: Since I lose plastic doodads with great frequency (and sewing with a kitten helping doesn't increase the odds that plastic doodads remain on the sewing table), I tried Louise Cutting's method: find a piece of the garment similar in weight to the thick spot, and use that as a hump jumper. Works well for me. I think we must all be very good at re-inventing the wheel. For many years, whenever I have shortened jeans for DD, I have used the cut off section of the hem as a "hump jumper". I just never called it that.... I even save a few of them in case a re-hemming doesn't require cutting off the full depth of the old hem. Beverly I've done this too, in a pinch. The advantage of the purchased hump jumper (costs money, darn it!) is that its 'fork' design lets you position it with the prongs extended under the presser foot, equalizing the thickness under the entire foot instead of just at the back. The open slot in hump jumpers is just over a half inch, and in the jean-a-ma-jig is a full inch, which usually lets you clear the extra thickness before the presser foot slides off. Doreen in Alabama |
#26
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Bernette 410 -- stitch length problems
You are right. Mine doesn't either (reverse that is)
I haven't sewn on it in too long I guess. I don't guess that has ever bothered me if I didn't even notice though. Interesting that my 930 cost about $1400 in 1985. It is still worth more than half that amount and sews like a dream. She has sewn a zillion miles I bet. Everytime I have the gals over to sew someone comments about how smooth it is. They all expect it to sew like an old clunker I guess. A friend has an 830 and she says everytime she goes sewing machine shopping she can't find a reason to get a new one. Taria Phaedrine wrote: In article YdGJg.9310$p23.3738@trnddc04, Taria wrote: I'll never get rid of my 930. It is a dream of a machine. See what I mean, OP? I can't imagine ever parting with mine either. It makes the nicest zz sitiches. 830's are great machines also and go used for a little less. They are both tough models to find since people don't want to give them up once they have them! btw, mine is able to stay in reverse. How do you get it to stay in reverse? |
#27
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Bernette 410 -- stitch length problems
Doreen wrote:
BEI Design wrote: Kay Lancaster wrote: Since I lose plastic doodads with great frequency (and sewing with a kitten helping doesn't increase the odds that plastic doodads remain on the sewing table), I tried Louise Cutting's method: find a piece of the garment similar in weight to the thick spot, and use that as a hump jumper. Works well for me. I think we must all be very good at re-inventing the wheel. For many years, whenever I have shortened jeans for DD, I have used the cut off section of the hem as a "hump jumper". I just never called it that.... I even save a few of them in case a re-hemming doesn't require cutting off the full depth of the old hem. Beverly I've done this too, in a pinch. The advantage of the purchased hump jumper (costs money, darn it!) is that its 'fork' design lets you position it with the prongs extended under the presser foot, equalizing the thickness under the entire foot instead of just at the back. The open slot in hump jumpers is just over a half inch, and in the jean-a-ma-jig is a full inch, which usually lets you clear the extra thickness before the presser foot slides off. Doreen in Alabama I got a thing called a 'button reed' with my Husqvarna sewing machine. Looks like this Hump Jumper thing, but is grey: http://www.thesewingplace.com/index....OD&ProdID=1038 -- Kate XXXXXX R.C.T.Q Madame Chef des Trolls Lady Catherine, Wardrobe Mistress of the Chocolate Buttons http://www.katedicey.co.uk Click on Kate's Pages and explore! |
#28
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Bernette 410 -- stitch length problems
Kate Dicey wrote:
I got a thing called a 'button reed' with my Husqvarna sewing machine. Looks like this Hump Jumper thing, but is grey: http://www.thesewingplace.com/index....OD&ProdID=1038 That's interesting. The Sewing Place description says "The perfect tool for making the space for a button shank." Since I always sew buttons on by hand, that use for the hump jumper had never occurred to me, but I can see that it would be very helpful in conjunction with the button foot. If I may amend my explanation of the purchased thingys' benefits, I should have said "The advantage of the purchased hump jumper (costs money, darn it!) is that its 'fork' design lets you position it with the prongs extended under the presser foot *as you approach the problematic area*, equalizing the thickness under the entire foot instead of just at the back." Doreen in Alabama |
#29
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Bernette 410 -- stitch length problems
wrote in message oups.com... Betty Vereen Hill wrote: wrote in message oups.com... Use a hump-jumper on thick seams. Do NOT pull the fabric through, as you will break needles, and likely throw the timing off. Please excuse my ignorance. Just what is a hump-jumper? I've fought with my share of thick seams, but I've never known that there might be something that would alleviate the problem. My pitiful Singer 5050 pales in comparison to the fabulous machines many of you command. I really hate to admit it - I have pulled the fabric through when fighting with a thick seam. Is there relief in my future? Betty in Georgia --- I must confess, Betty: I made my own hump-jumper. Took 3 or 4 of those thick cards that packaged binding and trim come wrapped around, cut and taped the cards together (used wide package tape) so that each side has a different thickness on it's edge. Works pretty well, and when I mis-place it, I grab another chunk of thick cardboard, fold it in half, and use it. Sometimes I use a face plate from my machine, but I don't advise it, as it might put dings in the plate. Cea Thanks for your tips, Cea. The ingenuity of people in solving problems with what they have at hand is always a source of amazement for me. Betty in Georgia |
#30
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Bernette 410 -- stitch length problems
Phaedrine wrote in
news:Phaedrine.Stonebridge-810B63.00301331082006@news- 50.dca.giganews.com: In article , FragileWarrior wrote: Phaedrine wrote in . com: In article .com, "AMM" wrote: I have a Bernette (sp?) 410 sewing machine that we bought about 20 years ago reconditioned. I'm fairly happy with it (especially when I look at what new machines cost), except for one problem: it's not very good at pulling the cloth through at a consistent rate. This is a bottom of the line machine to start with. If it was reconditioned 20 years ago (!), I can't imagine it has much life left in it. Tell that to my Featherweight workhorse. Perhaps I missed something. Your remark has what to do with the OP's Bernette? My point was that age or previous ownership isn't necessarily a sign of a machine that's outlived it's usefulness. |
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