Mystery curtains

Main Entry: mil·li·nery
Pronunciation: 'mi-l&-"ner-E
Function: noun
1 : women's apparel for the head
2 : the business or work of a milliner

Is that it? I've heard and seen the word, but didn't know what it was. And,
if you're running into store clerks under the age of perhaps 40, I doubt
they've even seen the word. You'd think that if someone works in a fabric
store, they'd do so because they have some interest in the specialty, but in
fact, some are only there for the job.


"Pat in Virginia" wrote in message
news:OA_Ad.3938$Tf5.159@lakeread03...
Try looking for casement curtains or casement sheers.
You can get magnetic rods, if your door is metal. A
nice place to look is Country Curtains. Google that. I
have gorgeous casements from them. A tad pricey, but
lovely.

You think finding a nice curtain is difficult? Just try
asking for millinery ... not known even in an 'upscale
store.' How do these people ge, and hold those jobs?

NAYY. PAT in VA/USA

Doug Kanter wrote:

My back door has a window, and I need the type of curtain which has a
small
rod at top and bottom, and is pulled tight between the two. I've gone
into
several stores (in the U.S.) looking for them, and unfortunately,
teenage
stupidity has invaded fabric and window treatment departments. The
kiddies
look at me like I'm from Mars when I describe these curtains. Does that
type
of curtain have a name, or is there a secret code word necessary in
order to
get an intelligent response in retail shops?

G'day Doug

I've made a similar lace curtain for the exterior door in my laundry, it
has glass in the top half of the door. I cut poly lace curtaining
double the finished width by the length including rod pocket casings top
and bottom. They are quite simple to make if you can get hold of a
sewing machine (it seems from your message that you don't have one?).
To hold my curtain in place I used some plastic covered springwire found
in curtain shops here (Australia). In the ends you fit very small screw
eyes and in turn these attach to a small hook that has been screwed into
the door. Cut the springwire a little shorter than is needed so it will
stretch slightly without drooping. Of course this springwire will only
hold lightweight curtains, heavier fabrics will need a rod. If this is
the case why not try 1/2" wooden dowel with the same screw eye and hook
setup? Sorry I can't help with the name, but cafe curtains (as I
understand them) have a valance across the top and the bottom curtain
starts around half way down the window.

Can also agree with your frustation with shop assistants these days,
it's the same here unfortunately. One of my pet-hates is someone
working in the fabric section who knows zilch about sewing and can't
even measure fabric correctly....now don't get me started!!!

Hope this helps? As you can see there are lots of ways to skin this
cat!! LOL

Bronwyn ;-)



Doug Kanter wrote:

My back door has a window, and I need the type of curtain which has a small
rod at top and bottom, and is pulled tight between the two. I've gone into
several stores (in the U.S.) looking for them, and unfortunately, teenage
stupidity has invaded fabric and window treatment departments. The kiddies
look at me like I'm from Mars when I describe these curtains. Does that type
of curtain have a name, or is there a secret code word necessary in order to
get an intelligent response in retail shops?

Good to www.JCPenney.com click on curtains and drapes on the left side of
page then door panels on the right side of the next page. I think you'll
find what you want.
Juno

"HC" wrote in message
...
G'day Doug

I've made a similar lace curtain for the exterior door in my laundry, it
has glass in the top half of the door. I cut poly lace curtaining
double the finished width by the length including rod pocket casings top
and bottom. They are quite simple to make if you can get hold of a
sewing machine (it seems from your message that you don't have one?).
To hold my curtain in place I used some plastic covered springwire found
in curtain shops here (Australia). In the ends you fit very small screw
eyes and in turn these attach to a small hook that has been screwed into
the door. Cut the springwire a little shorter than is needed so it will
stretch slightly without drooping. Of course this springwire will only
hold lightweight curtains, heavier fabrics will need a rod. If this is
the case why not try 1/2" wooden dowel with the same screw eye and hook
setup? Sorry I can't help with the name, but cafe curtains (as I
understand them) have a valance across the top and the bottom curtain
starts around half way down the window.

Can also agree with your frustation with shop assistants these days,
it's the same here unfortunately. One of my pet-hates is someone
working in the fabric section who knows zilch about sewing and can't
even measure fabric correctly....now don't get me started!!!

Hope this helps? As you can see there are lots of ways to skin this
cat!! LOL

Bronwyn ;-)



Doug Kanter wrote:

My back door has a window, and I need the type of curtain which has a
small
rod at top and bottom, and is pulled tight between the two. I've gone
into
several stores (in the U.S.) looking for them, and unfortunately,
teenage
stupidity has invaded fabric and window treatment departments. The
kiddies
look at me like I'm from Mars when I describe these curtains. Does that
type
of curtain have a name, or is there a secret code word necessary in
order to
get an intelligent response in retail shops?

I think Doug could do these curtains up just fine without doing a stitch or
hiring a stitcher! The curtains will be gathered across the width part so
whatever width the fabric is will gather up just fine and the selvage edge
of the fabric really won't make that big a difference and it won't ravel or
need to be hemmed. Screw a cup hook on the four corners of the window. Get
doweling or a little round curtain rod that will fit the width and slide
into the cup hooks, top and bottom. Turn the cup hook so the doweling
doesn't fall out. Measure from the top to bottom doweling and add 6". Lay
your fabric down, right side down, and turn the cut edges up an inch and
iron flat. Now turn (fold over) again equal amounts so you have the top to
bottom measurement of the dowels and iron this down flat. You'll want the
turned edges pretty much equal. Get a roll of "Steam a Seam" at the fabric
store, sandwich between the turned under first inch and the bottom fabric so
you have a channel to put the dowel through. Iron that down per instructions
on the Steam a Seam packet. This stuff will glue that down as well as a
stitch and hangs in there for washing as well. Slide the dowels through the
top and bottom channels, thread the ends through the cup hooks, fiddle a bit
with the gathering to even it up and Doug will have a dandy curtain on his
window that any non sewing bachelor would be proud of. You could also use
the metal shirring rods, as previously mentioned with the little clips that
secure them on either end if you can find them, the curtain construction
would be the same. Try places like K-Mart, Wal-Mart, Target and the likes in
their curtain rod section, these are pretty standard inventory. With a pair
of reasonably descent scissors, an iron and a measuring tape he has all the
tools needed to get what he wants for a very affordable price. Plus he'll
still have a good amount of that seam tape left over for all kinds of handy
mending jobs that won't require a needle and thread. If you are looking for
an inexpensive fabric try checking the curtain departments in the same
stores you found your rods and look for "sheer panels" they come one to a
package and that's all you would need. Depending on the length of your
window you could probably get away with using one of the pockets for a rod
already sewn into the panel and do the second panel as I suggested. When all
that material is gathered it won't be that obvious what you've done and
since the you didn't publish your address the chances of the QA's in the
'seamstress police" department showing up with calipers and a magnifying
glass would be pretty slim. The sheer curtain, when gathered, will give you
privacy but still let in the light.

Val


"Doug Kanter" wrote in message
...
My back door has a window, and I need the type of curtain which has a
small
rod at top and bottom, and is pulled tight between the two. I've gone into
several stores (in the U.S.) looking for them, and unfortunately, teenage
stupidity has invaded fabric and window treatment departments. The kiddies
look at me like I'm from Mars when I describe these curtains. Does that
type
of curtain have a name, or is there a secret code word necessary in order
to
get an intelligent response in retail shops?

"Valkyrie" (SNIPPED)
I think Doug could do these curtains up just fine without doing a stitch or
hiring a stitcher!

That is a genius idea for someone who can't sew. Congratulations on the
what I think is the best idea so far for Doug.

Michelle Giordano - Now wishing I had a door like that, I like how those
curtains look

"dnmgiordano" wrote in message
news:N7eBd.636967$Pl.388711@pd7tw1no...

"Valkyrie" (SNIPPED)
I think Doug could do these curtains up just fine without doing a stitch
or hiring a stitcher!

That is a genius idea for someone who can't sew. Congratulations on the
what I think is the best idea so far for Doug.

Michelle Giordano - Now wishing I had a door like that, I like how those
curtains look


I may go this way, but on the other hand, I've had cuffs done on pants for
$10. What could it cost for someone to sew two straight seams on a
rectangular piece of fabric?? $11.00? :-)

Doug Kanter wrote:
I may go this way, but on the other hand, I've had cuffs done on pants for
$10. What could it cost for someone to sew two straight seams on a
rectangular piece of fabric?? $11.00? :-)



Well, if you came to me, I wouldn't charge $11, simply because it was
such an easy job...I just did a quilt for $10/hr, so....even if it took
me 12 minutes, that is only $2.00....or am I doing my math wrong again??
LOL

Larisa

"CNYstitcher" wrote in message
...
Doug Kanter wrote:
I may go this way, but on the other hand, I've had cuffs done on pants
for $10. What could it cost for someone to sew two straight seams on a
rectangular piece of fabric?? $11.00? :-)

Well, if you came to me, I wouldn't charge $11, simply because it was such
an easy job...I just did a quilt for $10/hr, so....even if it took me 12
minutes, that is only $2.00....or am I doing my math wrong again?? LOL

Larisa


I'd give you a three dollar tip just for being funny!

Larisa, YOu should charge for a full hour. You have to set up, cut and sew.
Did any repairperson ever come to your house and fix soething that took 20
minutes and charge you for that time. I doubt it. They charge for the first
full hour. So you have to charge the full amount. You must place a high
value on what you do. You know your worth it.
Juno
"Doug Kanter" wrote in message
...

"CNYstitcher" wrote in message
...
Doug Kanter wrote:
I may go this way, but on the other hand, I've had cuffs done on pants
for $10. What could it cost for someone to sew two straight seams on a
rectangular piece of fabric?? $11.00? :-)

Well, if you came to me, I wouldn't charge $11, simply because it was
such
an easy job...I just did a quilt for $10/hr, so....even if it took me 12
minutes, that is only $2.00....or am I doing my math wrong again?? LOL

Larisa


I'd give you a three dollar tip just for being funny!

"Juno" wrote in message
...
Larisa, YOu should charge for a full hour. You have to set up, cut and
sew.
Did any repairperson ever come to your house and fix soething that took 20
minutes and charge you for that time. I doubt it. They charge for the
first
full hour. So you have to charge the full amount. You must place a high
value on what you do. You know your worth it.
Juno

I agree, I would charge $10 - 20 (canadian mind you) for that job.

Michelle Giordano