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A Sewing Machine For The Workshop



 
 
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  #51  
Old February 10th 08, 10:35 AM posted to rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.woodworking,rec.crafts.textiles.sewing
Geoff
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Default A Sewing Machine For The Workshop

On Sun, 10 Feb 2008 14:08:20 +1100, Jordan wrote:

Singer 132K6


What he said. We have one my grandfather bought when he was in the carpet
business - i still have the packing crate somewhere. If you cant sew it
with the 132K6, you need a drill and nuts and bolts...
Oil them every day with light machine oil, including the bobbin case, and
clear out the fluff.
Geoff
Ads
  #52  
Old February 10th 08, 02:52 PM posted to rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.woodworking,rec.crafts.textiles.sewing
Anon
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Posts: 3
Default A Sewing Machine For The Workshop

Hi All



Yep 132k6 is good if you want to do tarps for a B-double or stitch polishing
mops for buffing.

Or serious motor trimming with plastics.



It is a lot heavier than a 111W.



A 132 is not good for lighter work



Take a trip to the nearest industrial sewing supplier and ask to see the
range of needles for both machines.



For normal upholstery or sail making a 111 is fine up to a fabric thickness
of a bit over 3/16"

After that the 132 comes in.

But doing lighter work on a 132 is not good.



The 132 does not like light weight threads at all. Light work is spoiled by
the heavy threads required Needles from about size 22 up to the equivalent
of a 3" framing gun nail.

Normal sewing thread will break. Special threads are required.



The 111w only just copes with normal sewing threads as used on a domestic
machine the min needle size is 16 it is happier with an 18 or bigger



If you get one of these machines do not try to run it at 3-5000 rpm the
normal speed for an industrial machine these days.



Go to a supplier and get the right motor around 750 rpm max for the 111 and
650 for the 132. We ran a 132 on a CNC stitching machine at around 1000 but
the setup had to be perfect. It was never that happy.



Run em any faster and the beautifully (Hand) honed and hardened bearings
will simply seize, lock up and break something. And that will mean goodbye.



Final tip Use Teflon added oil, is a huge improvement compared to the normal
white machine oil on the hook and base. The rotating part you put the bobbin
in. it will run much cooler



Cheers



Macka Australia



PS Hi Don Nichols.. I spoke to you on this forum about 7 years ago. (you
gave me good advice too)



Thank You



John McNamara


  #53  
Old February 10th 08, 10:41 PM posted to rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.woodworking,rec.crafts.textiles.sewing
Jordan
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Posts: 3
Default A Sewing Machine For The Workshop

Anon wrote:

Go to a supplier and get the right motor around 750 rpm max for the 111 and
650 for the 132. We ran a 132 on a CNC stitching machine at around 1000 but
the setup had to be perfect. It was never that happy.

etc


Good useful info Macka - thanks.
For really fine leatherwork, I've seen amazing work done on machines
with roller feet and feed.

Jordan
  #54  
Old February 11th 08, 02:35 AM posted to rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.woodworking,rec.crafts.textiles.sewing
SteveB[_3_]
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Posts: 6
Default A Sewing Machine For The Workshop


"Jordan" wrote in message
u...
Anon wrote:

Go to a supplier and get the right motor around 750 rpm max for the 111
and 650 for the 132. We ran a 132 on a CNC stitching machine at around
1000 but the setup had to be perfect. It was never that happy.

etc


Good useful info Macka - thanks.
For really fine leatherwork, I've seen amazing work done on machines with
roller feet and feed.

Jordan


I got a nice Singer 111W155 walking foot model with stand and all for $250
at a yard sale about a year ago. Going to use it soon for canvas awning
work. They work good on leather, too.

Steve


  #55  
Old February 11th 08, 06:13 AM posted to rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.woodworking,rec.crafts.textiles.sewing
Ivan Vegvary
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Posts: 2
Default A Sewing Machine For The Workshop


"Anon" wrote in message
...
HI

look for a Singer 111w or 112w (About 80 years old) there were tens of
thousands made.


I picked up an old Singer year 1921±. I told the seller (sewing machine
repair man that has dozens of commercial machines for sale) that I am going
to sew through 'door-skin' to make door panels for my auto restoration. I
didn't have any 'door-skin' to try it on and he didn't have any leather. He
found a 12" chunk of 1/4 inch thick Masonite. We laid a piece of fabric on
top of it and sewed through the pair with the greatest of ease. No problem.

Ivan Vegvary


  #56  
Old February 11th 08, 07:25 AM posted to rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.woodworking,rec.crafts.textiles.sewing
SteveB[_3_]
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Posts: 6
Default A Sewing Machine For The Workshop


"Ivan Vegvary" wrote in message
news:5QQrj.191$YJ4.63@trndny01...

"Anon" wrote in message
...
HI

look for a Singer 111w or 112w (About 80 years old) there were tens of
thousands made.


I picked up an old Singer year 1921±. I told the seller (sewing machine
repair man that has dozens of commercial machines for sale) that I am
going to sew through 'door-skin' to make door panels for my auto
restoration. I didn't have any 'door-skin' to try it on and he didn't
have any leather. He found a 12" chunk of 1/4 inch thick Masonite. We
laid a piece of fabric on top of it and sewed through the pair with the
greatest of ease. No problem.

Ivan Vegvary


Looking up my 111W155 serial number in the Singer manual tells me mine was
made in 1957. They are a workhorse. Ultimate Sew and Vac have them for
$710 each, probably refurbished and tweaked. Comes with table, stand and
motor.

Consew makes a mongo unit that we used for our canvas awning business, but
IIRC, it was pretty spendy. I don't know. I did the welding for the
frames, and my partner did the canvas.

Going to make some of my own awnings for my house this spring. I still have
quite a few awnings hanging around Las Vegas from when I was a contractor.
They're very nice ........ if you don't have to pay retail. ;-)

Steve


  #57  
Old February 11th 08, 05:57 PM posted to rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.woodworking,rec.crafts.textiles.sewing
NoOne N Particular
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Posts: 5
Default A Sewing Machine For The Workshop

SNIP

I got a nice Singer 111W155 walking foot model with stand and all for $250
at a yard sale about a year ago. Going to use it soon for canvas awning
work. They work good on leather, too.

Steve


I picked up a 111w152 from a canvas shop (for boats) that was going out
of business. Machine (in GREAT shape), table, and a few feet for $200.
One nice thing about it was that the previous owner had "re-engined"
the machine with a more powerful motor and new clutch. I haven't tried
going through any masonite or anything like that, but I did try sewing
eight layers of heavy (30 oz) marine vinyl just to see what happened.
To my surprise, nothing unusual happened. Just sewed it all together
like it was just two layers. I already had a very healthy respect for
the machines capabilities, but it DID give me a little bit higher level
of respect for the machine though. If you were unfortunate enough or
careless enough to get your finger under that needle . . .

The only thing I would recommend though is if you can find it (and
afford it), get a machine with reverse. If you find a good deal on a
machine that does not have reverse, don't let that stop you from buying
it. It probably isn't all that much of a deal, but it seems like it
would be easier to "lock" stitches at the beginning and end. There are
ways around not having reverse, but having it would just make things a
little bit easier.


Wayne
  #58  
Old February 12th 08, 08:04 AM posted to rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.woodworking,rec.crafts.textiles.sewing
Anon
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Posts: 3
Default A Sewing Machine For The Workshop

Hi Wayne

If you like the machine; your 111w, do not try it on masonite. The sound of
hardened and polished steel snapping is not good.
and the spare parts (not counting the labour) will cost you more than the
cost of the machine. If you can get them.

The 132 can do masonite, but the stuff they use in cars and upholstery is
not flooring underlay. it is soft and flexible.

Cheers

John McNamara





"NoOne N Particular" wrote in message
t...
SNIP

I got a nice Singer 111W155 walking foot model with stand and all for
$250 at a yard sale about a year ago. Going to use it soon for canvas
awning work. They work good on leather, too.

Steve

I picked up a 111w152 from a canvas shop (for boats) that was going out of
business. Machine (in GREAT shape), table, and a few feet for $200. One
nice thing about it was that the previous owner had "re-engined" the
machine with a more powerful motor and new clutch. I haven't tried going
through any masonite or anything like that, but I did try sewing eight
layers of heavy (30 oz) marine vinyl just to see what happened. To my
surprise, nothing unusual happened. Just sewed it all together like it
was just two layers. I already had a very healthy respect for the
machines capabilities, but it DID give me a little bit higher level of
respect for the machine though. If you were unfortunate enough or
careless enough to get your finger under that needle . . .

The only thing I would recommend though is if you can find it (and afford
it), get a machine with reverse. If you find a good deal on a machine
that does not have reverse, don't let that stop you from buying it. It
probably isn't all that much of a deal, but it seems like it would be
easier to "lock" stitches at the beginning and end. There are ways around
not having reverse, but having it would just make things a little bit
easier.


Wayne



  #59  
Old February 12th 08, 06:07 PM posted to rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.woodworking,rec.crafts.textiles.sewing
NoOne N Particular
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Posts: 5
Default A Sewing Machine For The Workshop

Anon wrote:
Hi Wayne

If you like the machine; your 111w, do not try it on masonite.


No worries there. I have NO plans to sew anything other than fabrics
and maybe some "glass". Having said that, if I were to try some
masonite I think (hope?) the needle would be the first thing to go. But
I don't have big enough balls to try it.

Wayne

P.S. The "glass" I am referring to would be the clear plastic used in
boat canvas windows.
  #60  
Old February 12th 08, 08:14 PM posted to rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.woodworking,rec.crafts.textiles.sewing
Kate XXXXXX Kate XXXXXX is offline
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Posts: 1,708
Default A Sewing Machine For The Workshop

NoOne N Particular wrote:
Anon wrote:
Hi Wayne

If you like the machine; your 111w, do not try it on masonite.


No worries there. I have NO plans to sew anything other than fabrics
and maybe some "glass". Having said that, if I were to try some
masonite I think (hope?) the needle would be the first thing to go. But
I don't have big enough balls to try it.

Wayne

P.S. The "glass" I am referring to would be the clear plastic used in
boat canvas windows.


And there was me thinking you meant fibreglass fabric!

Good luck with the project. Do keep us up to date on how it goes.

--
Kate XXXXXX R.C.T.Q Madame Chef des Trolls
Lady Catherine, Wardrobe Mistress of the Chocolate Buttons
http://www.katedicey.co.uk
Click on Kate's Pages and explore!
 




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