Leeching clay

Just how much can you leech before the clay isn't usable? Started
beading with Sculpey III after leeching it once and it was still way
too soft, especially the purple and mint green colors - just trying to
pierce a bead even when left to cool down would cause the whole thing
to squash. They're now in the third set of paper changes (I am using
cheap card stock which holds more than typing paper), but is there a
point at which you've taken too much out and the clay won't harden?

---

http://www.FenrirOnline.com

Computer services, custom metal etching,
arts, crafts, and much more.

I am not sure about how much you can leach it but I do know that I use
Premo clay because it is harder and a better quality. Especially for
something like beads which need to be strong. I read somewhere that if
you leach it too much you can use a dilutent like mineral oil or
sculpey dilutent to make it more workable. Have you tried
www.glassattic.com yet? There you can find anything you want to know
about working with polymer clay.

Shannon

My Auctions:http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQfgtpZ1QQ...QsassZshahdhch

On 11 May 2005 20:59:41 -0700, "shahdhch"
wrote:

I am not sure about how much you can leach it but I do know that I use
Premo clay because it is harder and a better quality. Especially for
something like beads which need to be strong. I read somewhere that if
you leach it too much you can use a dilutent like mineral oil or
sculpey dilutent to make it more workable. Have you tried
www.glassattic.com yet? There you can find anything you want to know
about working with polymer clay.

I only buy Premo now but I have about six pounds of Sculpey III and
Fimo (Original) left to use before I get into it. The Sculpey is
strong enough for beads once baked, it's just too soft when you work
with it. Glassattic doesn't have anything specific on how much you can
leech clay before it doesn't work anymore.

---

http://www.FenrirOnline.com

Computer services, custom metal etching,
arts, crafts, and much more.

I think what is leeching is the plasticizer (sp?) which is the thing
that makes it soft and workable. I don't think it will effect the baked
beads one way or the other as far as hardness goes. It's supposed to
evaporate when it's baked. I don't think it causes the hardening. I
know I've used very dried up Sculpy III and it baked up fine, the
difficulty was getting it conditioned.

I didn't think Premo would be all that different than Sculpy when
finished but now I know why everyone refers to it as stronger or a
better consistency for beads. It really is. When you drop it it goes
"klunk" instead of "thunk". It feels a little heavier and stronger but
also is harder to break bits off of because of a slight flexibility.
It's great stuff. I won't be going back.

I think what is leeching is the plasticizer (sp?) which is the thing
that makes it soft and workable. I don't think it will effect the baked
beads one way or the other as far as hardness goes. It's supposed to
evaporate when it's baked. I don't think it causes the hardening. I
know I've used very dried up Sculpy III and it baked up fine, the
difficulty was getting it conditioned.

I didn't think Premo would be all that different than Sculpy when
finished but now I know why everyone refers to it as stronger or a
better consistency for beads. It really is. When you drop it it goes
"klunk" instead of "thunk". It feels a little heavier and stronger but
also is harder to break bits off of because of a slight flexibility.
It's great stuff. I won't be going back.

Ingrid