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gluing organics to metal



 
 
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  #11  
Old August 17th 06, 04:35 AM posted to rec.crafts.jewelry
Peter W.. Rowe,
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 355
Default gluing organics to metal

On Wed, 16 Aug 2006 20:11:57 -0700, in rec.crafts.jewelry "Andrew Werby"
wrote:


"Abrasha" wrote
And what exactly do you mean with "mechanical mount"? How would you mount
a
pearl "mechanically" to a sterling silver post? Would you elaborate a bit
please.

--
Abrasha
http://www.abrasha.com

[I'm surprised you don't know how to do this. Split the post and insert a
small wedge of silver. Push the pearl onto it, driving the wedge into the
split and expanding it in the hole. This results in a "mechanical"
connection that was often used before the advent of modern glues. Of course,
a little epoxy helps too...]

Andrew Werby
www.unitedartworks.com



And for those unfamilier with this currently seldom done method (though it's
still useful every now and then), the easiest way to split the post is not to.
instead, make it from a folded over piece of half round wire. Then all you need
do is prevent the solder from flowing up into the split when you solder on the
post, which is done simply by spreading the "wings" of the post while soldering.
Close it up again before fitting the wedge and pearl. The pearl or bead or
whatever part needs to be precisly fitted to the post and wedge, regarding the
depth of the drill hole, so the wedge does get pushed into the post spreading
it. This takes care, since if the wedge is too small or the hole too deep, the
fit isn't so tight, and if the hole not quite deep enough or the wedge too big,
the assembly jams tight before the pearl is fully pressed down. And once you
assemble this, it cannot be taken apart again, so you don't get to trial fit it
(at least not with the wedge in place...) And it holds best if you use a drill
or bur to spread out the interior bottom end of the hole (undercut the hole on
the inside), so the peg has something to spread into (the hole is wider inside
than at the outside of the pearl). That way, once fitted, it cannot pull out.
Commonly, even in the old days, some sort of cement was also used, if only to
keep the pearl from being able to spin or wiggle a bit on the end of the post.
Even in the (very) old days, glues sufficient for this task were available.
All in all, though, this is fussy enough to do that I for one am quite grateful
for modern glues. They hold when you want em to, and can be disassembled too,
if you need to do so.

cheers

Peter
Ads
  #12  
Old August 17th 06, 05:16 AM posted to rec.crafts.jewelry
Carl 1 Lucky Texan
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 57
Default gluing organics to metal

Peter W.. Rowe, wrote:

On Wed, 16 Aug 2006 20:11:57 -0700, in rec.crafts.jewelry "Andrew Werby"
wrote:


"Abrasha" wrote

And what exactly do you mean with "mechanical mount"? How would you mount
a
pearl "mechanically" to a sterling silver post? Would you elaborate a bit
please.

--
Abrasha
http://www.abrasha.com


[I'm surprised you don't know how to do this. Split the post and insert a
small wedge of silver. Push the pearl onto it, driving the wedge into the
split and expanding it in the hole. This results in a "mechanical"
connection that was often used before the advent of modern glues. Of course,
a little epoxy helps too...]

Andrew Werby
www.unitedartworks.com




And for those unfamilier with this currently seldom done method (though it's
still useful every now and then), the easiest way to split the post is not to.
instead, make it from a folded over piece of half round wire. Then all you need
do is prevent the solder from flowing up into the split when you solder on the
post, which is done simply by spreading the "wings" of the post while soldering.
Close it up again before fitting the wedge and pearl. The pearl or bead or
whatever part needs to be precisly fitted to the post and wedge, regarding the
depth of the drill hole, so the wedge does get pushed into the post spreading
it. This takes care, since if the wedge is too small or the hole too deep, the
fit isn't so tight, and if the hole not quite deep enough or the wedge too big,
the assembly jams tight before the pearl is fully pressed down. And once you
assemble this, it cannot be taken apart again, so you don't get to trial fit it
(at least not with the wedge in place...) And it holds best if you use a drill
or bur to spread out the interior bottom end of the hole (undercut the hole on
the inside), so the peg has something to spread into (the hole is wider inside
than at the outside of the pearl). That way, once fitted, it cannot pull out.
Commonly, even in the old days, some sort of cement was also used, if only to
keep the pearl from being able to spin or wiggle a bit on the end of the post.
Even in the (very) old days, glues sufficient for this task were available.
All in all, though, this is fussy enough to do that I for one am quite grateful
for modern glues. They hold when you want em to, and can be disassembled too,
if you need to do so.

cheers

Peter


Is this called a 'trunnel' as in timber framing/ship building?

Carl


--
to reply, change ( .not) to ( .net)

  #13  
Old August 17th 06, 05:17 AM posted to rec.crafts.jewelry
Peter W.. Rowe,
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 355
Default gluing organics to metal

On Wed, 16 Aug 2006 21:15:44 -0700, in rec.crafts.jewelry Carl 1 Lucky Texan
wrote:

Is this called a 'trunnel' as in timber framing/ship building?

Carl



Sounds good to me, though I've never heard that term before. Don't happen to
know a better one, so if you like, go with it!

:-)
  #14  
Old August 20th 06, 08:51 PM posted to rec.crafts.jewelry
Carl
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 38
Default gluing organics to metal

Carl 1 Lucky Texan wrote:

Is this called a 'trunnel' as in timber framing/ship building?


No, a trunnel or 'tree-nail' is a wooden peg.

The mechanism of a slotted tenon or peg with a wedge going into a blind
hole is known as fox wedging.

http://onlinedictionary.datasegment.com/word/fox+wedge (about 2/3 of the
way down)

- Carl (the other one)

  #15  
Old August 26th 06, 11:52 PM posted to rec.crafts.jewelry
Abrasha
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 298
Default gluing organics to metal

Andrew Werby wrote:
"Abrasha" wrote
And what exactly do you mean with "mechanical mount"? How would you mount
a
pearl "mechanically" to a sterling silver post? Would you elaborate a bit
please.

--
Abrasha
http://www.abrasha.com

[I'm surprised you don't know how to do this. Split the post and insert a
small wedge of silver.



I did know this, and I am fairly confident, that mbstevens did not. :-)

--
Abrasha
http://www.abrasha.com

  #16  
Old August 28th 06, 06:16 AM posted to rec.crafts.jewelry
mbstevens
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 165
Default gluing organics to metal

On Sat, 26 Aug 2006 22:52:07 +0000, Abrasha wrote:

[I'm surprised you don't know how to do this. Split the post and insert a
small wedge of silver.



I did know this, and I am fairly confident, that mbstevens did not. :-)


This is an _obvious_ bit of Abrashive trolling, but I notice it has a
little smiley on it, so I'll ask first, just to save Peter some
trouble: Do you --really-- want me to bite back, Abrasha?
:~)





  #17  
Old October 2nd 07, 05:12 PM posted to rec.crafts.jewelry
Al Balmer
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 20
Default gluing organics to metal

On Thu, 17 Aug 2006 04:17:18 GMT, "Peter W.. Rowe,"
wrote:

On Wed, 16 Aug 2006 21:15:44 -0700, in rec.crafts.jewelry Carl 1 Lucky Texan
wrote:

Is this called a 'trunnel' as in timber framing/ship building?

No. A trunnel depends on the wood getting wet and swelling. The split
tenon technique is used in woodworking, though. Both in a blind
mortise, as described here, and in a through mortise, where you can
drive the wedge in from the other end. In that case, it's usually a
wood of a contrasting color, for decorative purposes.

Carl



Sounds good to me, though I've never heard that term before. Don't happen to
know a better one, so if you like, go with it!

:-)


--
Al Balmer
Sun City, AZ
 




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