Differential feed on a serger / overlocker ?

What's "differential feed", and when and why should I consider using
it ?

Thanks

Andy Dingley wrote:
What's "differential feed", and when and why should I consider
using it ?

Thanks

From a shop.com article:
" The differential feed evenly feeds difficult lightweight and stretch
fabrics and enables gathering. "

My original serger did not have differential feed, so I learned by
trial-and-error to gently restrain some fabrics to get a better result. My
newer serger, the Huskylock 910 does have differential feed, in addition to
a much better/easier conversion to rolled hem.

It is really great to be able to change the feed to accommodate different
weights and types of fabrics. I have not used mine for gathering, but I
know some folks here do.

--
Beverly
delete no spam and .invalid to reply

Andy Dingley wrote:
What's "differential feed", and when and why should I consider using
it ?

Andy,

Differential feed (otherwise refered to on the sewing groups as 'diff'
so as to avoid having to type the whole word in every time!) is used to
either stretch fabric (a diff below 1) or gather fabric (a diff above 1)
(diff=1=equal feeding).

The diff works by moving the 2 sets of feed dogs under the serger
presser foot at different speeds.

If you are serging a stretch fabric, sometimes the act of sewing it
stretches the material and causes what is known as lettucing - your
fabric comes out with a frilly edge (mind you this effect can be used
deliberatly in frilly skirts, but when making a t-shirt its not what you
want!) - so you increase your diff to gather the material slightly as it
is serged to counteract the lettuce effect.

If you are serging a light fabric - and I actually hit this problem for
the first time in 18mths happy serging with a shirt weight poly-cotton -
not a vey thin one either - it can pucker up and look gathered when you
have serged it. To counteract this effect, you set your diff down to
strech the fabric as it is sewn - hey presto, a flat seam with no nasty
gathers.

If you set your diff up on a normal fabric, you can gather it on its own
(with no special foot), or gather it and sew it on to a flat peice of
material at the same time if you have a gathering foot.

HTH,

Sarah

Andy Dingley wrote:
What's "differential feed", and when and why should I consider using
it ?

Thanks

Differential feed allows you to set the serger to feed the top and
bottom layers at different rates. This can be helpful to keep like
fabrics from slipping, and to keep unlike fabrics from bunching up. You
can actually do the same thing with your fingers, and my first serger
had no differential so I learned this way. Also, with sewing machines
you tend to learn to do this. You know how on sewing some things, you
always put one part on the bottom? Because the feed dogs move the
fabric, but the presser foot does not. Once you know your differential
feed and its settings, you can "gather" one layer onto another, saving
lots of extra steps.

--

Joanne @ stitches @ singerlady.reno.nv.us
http://bernardschopen.tripod.com/
Life is about the journey, not about the destination.

On Fri, 18 Feb 2005 13:44:23 -0800, Pogonip
wrote:

You know how on sewing some things, you
always put one part on the bottom? Because the feed dogs move the
fabric, but the presser foot does not.

I wouldn't know 8-) - there's a top feed on my Pfaff, and the
industrial is a real walking foot. I used to sew a lot of kites where
this is a real problem with slippery ripstop - so I found machines
where it just wasn't a problem.

Once you know your differential
feed and its settings, you can "gather" one layer onto another, saving
lots of extra steps.

I very rarely gather things - most stuff I sew is quite heavy fabrics;
luggage or trad. gents tailoring. It's all flat seams and even really
curved seams are the rarity.

If I wanted to gather a medium weight linen into a sleeve cuff, could
I do this by using the differential feed and overlocking the raw edge
with some gathering in it, before I attached the cuff band ?

I _might_ be sewing some '50s style dresses soon, which would be fun.
Nice chance to work with different fabrics too. That might give cause
for more ruffling, gathering and the like.

Andy Dingley wrote:
If I wanted to gather a medium weight linen into a sleeve cuff, could
I do this by using the differential feed and overlocking the raw edge
with some gathering in it, before I attached the cuff band ?

You could, although that depends on the style of the blouse / shirt you
are making. In traditional mens wear, the excess fabric in a sleeve is
pleated in 2 or 3 small pleats pointing to the cuff placket. If you were
making, say a peasant blouse, then gathering the excess would be
appropriate.

If you have a gathering foot for your serger you can gather the fabric
and sew it to the cuff in one action, although this does require you to
calibrate the gathering.

Regards,

Sarah