problem with model 99 singer

stiches are coming loose as i cannot lock them ( by going backwards--very
carefully it still breakes the string)

machine cannot sew backwards

any ideas on how to stop this?--tension seems fine ( i am no uisng small
amount s gle tos top it, but would like more better ideas

tia
peter

ilaboo wrote:
stiches are coming loose as i cannot lock them ( by going backwards--very
carefully it still breakes the string)

Do you mean thread?

machine cannot sew backwards

No, the earlier ones don't: my FrankenSinger 1949 head does not go
backwards, you have to turn the work round. Does yours have a screw-in
knob to regulate the stitch length, or an up/down lever? If you have the
screw-on knob, it won't go backwards as it wasn't designed to.

any ideas on how to stop this?--tension seems fine ( i am no uisng small
amount s gle tos top it, but would like more better ideas

Turn the work round, finish off by hand, tie knots?

If the seam is to be crossed by another seam, you really don't need to
finish off. Just leave a 2" tail of threads and clip them off later
when the seam crossing it has been completed.

--
Kate XXXXXX R.C.T.Q Madame Chef des Trolls
Lady Catherine, Wardrobe Mistress of the Chocolate Buttons
http://www.katedicey.co.uk
Click on Kate's Pages and explore!

On Mon, 07 Jan 2008 02:31:08 GMT, ilaboo wrote:
stiches are coming loose as i cannot lock them ( by going backwards--very
carefully it still breakes the string)

machine cannot sew backwards

any ideas on how to stop this?--tension seems fine ( i am no uisng small
amount s gle tos top it, but would like more better ideas

Several ways to do this:
1) start and end with several stitches of very short or 0 length.
2) "stall" the fabric (prevent it from feeding) at the beginning and end
of the seam -- same effect as #1
3) sew several stitches, stop, raise the presser foot, move the fabric back
to the beginning, continue to sew over the first stitching. End the same way.
4) start 1-2 cm from the end, sew to the end of the seam. Leaving the needle
in the work, raise the presser foot and rotate the work 180 degrees. Sew the
seam. End by leaving the needle in the work, raising the presser foot,
rotating the work again, and stitching again for a few cm.

Of these, #2 is the easiest, in my opinion -- in fact, I use it myself, as
it's easier than reaching for the reverse button on my machine.

Kay

really super thanks for the help on this

thanks again
peter

ilaboo wrote:
really super thanks for the help on this

thanks again
peter


You're welcome! Stick around and tell us what you are sewing on your
Golden Oldie.

Mine was in school just before Christmas, playing with a bunch of 10-11
YO's, making Christmas Stockings.

--
Kate XXXXXX R.C.T.Q Madame Chef des Trolls
Lady Catherine, Wardrobe Mistress of the Chocolate Buttons
http://www.katedicey.co.uk
Click on Kate's Pages and explore!

Tangent to the main discussion:

When sewing a dart, back-tacking at the point puts a lump exactly
where you don't want one.

So after stitching off the point of a dart, keep stitching for an inch
or so, keeping the fold of the fabric under half the foot, but missing
it with the needle. This twists the two threads together into a cord.
When you break off, leave enough thread to tie into a knot. Tie a
half-hitch in the thread ends, then put a pin through the knot into
the point of the dart. Tighten the knot around the pin, so that it
ends up right against the point of the dart. Trim the ends to half an
inch. The half inch will be neatly twisted into a cord. (But from
the right side, it really doesn't matter how the ends look.)

One way to tie a half hitch: form the twisted cord into a loop near
the point of the dart, with the thread ends passing under the loop.
Use a pin to pull the ends up through the loop. Tighten around the
pin.

Joy Beeson
--
joy beeson at comcast dot net
http://roughsewing.home.comcast.net/ -- sewing
http://n3f.home.comcast.net/ -- Writers' Exchange
The above message is a Usenet post.
I don't recall having given anyone permission to use it on a Web site.

Joy Beeson wrote:
Tangent to the main discussion:

When sewing a dart, back-tacking at the point puts a lump exactly
where you don't want one.

So after stitching off the point of a dart, keep stitching for an inch
or so, keeping the fold of the fabric under half the foot, but missing
it with the needle. This twists the two threads together into a cord.
When you break off, leave enough thread to tie into a knot. Tie a
half-hitch in the thread ends, then put a pin through the knot into
the point of the dart. Tighten the knot around the pin, so that it
ends up right against the point of the dart. Trim the ends to half an
inch. The half inch will be neatly twisted into a cord. (But from
the right side, it really doesn't matter how the ends look.)

One way to tie a half hitch: form the twisted cord into a loop near
the point of the dart, with the thread ends passing under the loop.
Use a pin to pull the ends up through the loop. Tighten around the
pin.

Joy Beeson

One of the very few good points about the Singer Touch & Swear machines
was that with the wind-in-place bobbin, you can wind a small amount of
thread, start sewing at the point of a dart, and end in the seam
allowance leaving no threads, no knots, at the point.
--
Joanne
stitches @ singerlady.reno.nv.us.earth.milky-way.com
http://members.tripod.com/~bernardschopen/

On Tue, 08 Jan 2008 14:49:28 -0800, Pogonip
wrote:

One of the very few good points about the Singer Touch & Swear machines
was that with the wind-in-place bobbin, you can wind a small amount of
thread, start sewing at the point of a dart, and end in the seam
allowance leaving no threads, no knots, at the point.

If it's important enough, any machine can do that -- tie the bobbin
thread to the needle thread, pull it back through the machine until
you can stitch the whole dart without getting the knot into the
tension disks. For a short dart, you can pull the knot back to just
after the tension disks; if I recall correctly, as long as it doesn't
reach the needle you won't have any problem.

But I wouldn't do that unless the dart was going to end up on the
right side; a start is never quite so smooth as a finish.

Joy Beeson
--
joy beeson at comcast dot net
http://roughsewing.home.comcast.net/ -- sewing
http://n3f.home.comcast.net/ -- Writers' Exchange
The above message is a Usenet post.
I don't recall having given anyone permission to use it on a Web site.