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Disappearing Nine Patch - Math help
Ok, so I want to make a disappearing nine patch...but how big do I
make the original squares so that my final piece ends up being 12" finished? I came up with 4 2/3" and that is totally not making any sense in my brain. I don't have the oomph to actually give it a try and take it apart and redo it when I mess it up.... Thanks! Dannielle |
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Disappearing Nine Patch - Math help
ok, I just can't resist.... (somebody had to say it) why would you care
about it if it's going to disappear...?? Judy who had wine with dinner before going online |
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Disappearing Nine Patch - Math help
On Apr 27, 7:01*pm, Dannielle wrote:
Ok, so I want to make a disappearing nine patch...but how big do I make the original squares so that my final piece ends up being 12" finished? *I came up with 4 2/3" and that is totally not making any sense in my brain. *I don't have the oomph to actually give it a try and take it apart and redo it when I mess it up.... Thanks! Dannielle Less than 1/8" under 7", according to my math. I'd never heard of a disappearing nine-patch, so I did a quick google, and what I found suggested that you begin with 3 equal-sized 9-patches, then cut them into quaters. After that... things differ, but one winds up sewing the pieces back together into some final configuration. In your case, you want that to be 12" square, right? If this is what you're doing, then your final 12" square (144 sq. in.) divided by 3 component 9-squares = 48 sq. in. ea. The square root of 48 (to make the original 9-patch squares) is a little less than 7. So if you started with 7" blocks (after squaring, as described on the sources I read), you should be in the ballpark, + or -. Doc Smith |
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Disappearing Nine Patch - Math help
Dannielle wrote:
Ok, so I want to make a disappearing nine patch...but how big do I make the original squares so that my final piece ends up being 12" finished? I came up with 4 2/3" and that is totally not making any sense in my brain. I don't have the oomph to actually give it a try and take it apart and redo it when I mess it up.... Thanks! Dannielle You're right. The squares you start with should be 4 2/3". No matter what size you want your D9P to be, the finished size of your starting 9 patch always needs to be 1/2" larger than the finished size of the final D9P. So if you want your D9P to be 12" finished then the starting 9 patch needs to be 12 1/2" finished. Divide 12 1/2" by 3 and you get 4.17". Add your seam allowances and you get a starting patch of 4.67". -- Jeri "You can complain because roses have thorns, or you can rejoice because thorns have roses." ~Ziggy~ |
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Disappearing Nine Patch - Math help
On Apr 28, 1:58*am, "Jeri" wrote:
Dannielle wrote: Ok, so I want to make a disappearing nine patch...but how big do I make the original squares so that my final piece ends up being 12" finished? *I came up with 4 2/3" and that is totally not making any sense in my brain. *I don't have the oomph to actually give it a try and take it apart and redo it when I mess it up.... Thanks! Dannielle You're right. The squares you start with should be 4 2/3". No matter what size you want your D9P to be, the finished size of your starting 9 patch always needs to be 1/2" larger than the finished size of the final D9P. So if you want your D9P to be 12" finished then the starting 9 patch needs to be 12 1/2" finished. Divide 12 1/2" by 3 and you get 4.17". Add your seam allowances and you get a starting patch of 4.67". -- Jeri "You can complain because roses have thorns, or you can rejoice because thorns have roses." *~Ziggy~ Jeri, Thanks! That really helps! Dannielle |
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Disappearing Nine Patch - Math help
Alright! I just did one, I put the original squares at 4 3/4", cause
who on earth puts thirds on their rulers? NOBODY! With a scant 1/4" seam allowance and the horizontal and vertical cuts at 6 1/2", once sewn back together this block rocks! I have decided that this might just be "THE" block for my black and tan quilt. I will make it a different size, however, like start with all 5" blocks and roll on from there. As long as they are all the same, it shouldn't matter. One of these days I will make a Yellow Brick Road quilt. I swear! Dannielle You're right. The squares you start with should be 4 2/3". No matter what size you want your D9P to be, the finished size of your starting 9 patch always needs to be 1/2" larger than the finished size of the final D9P. So if you want your D9P to be 12" finished then the starting 9 patch needs to be 12 1/2" finished. Divide 12 1/2" by 3 and you get 4.17". Add your seam allowances and you get a starting patch of 4.67". -- Jeri "You can complain because roses have thorns, or you can rejoice because thorns have roses." *~Ziggy~ |
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Disappearing Nine Patch - Math help
I'm with you, Dannielle. If we were doing one of our Pat on Her Hill's
creations, I just might be willing to cut something point oh something - but for the 9-patch? Heck no. Just couldn't matter that much. Today I came across a recipe that called for 2/3 of a teaspoon. Decided a generous heap of one-half ought to do. Has anybody ever even seen a measuring spoon for thirds? Polly "dbeitzell" wroteAlright! I just did one, I put the original squares at 4 3/4", cause who on earth puts thirds on their rulers? NOBODY! With a scant 1/4" seam allowance and the horizontal and vertical cuts at 6 1/2", once sewn back together this block rocks! I have decided that this might just be "THE" block for my black and tan quilt. I will make it a different size, however, like start with all 5" blocks and roll on from there. As long as they are all the same, it shouldn't matter. One of these days I will make a Yellow Brick Road quilt. I swear! |
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Disappearing Nine Patch - Math help
Hi Polly,
Not 2/3 tsp, but I have a set for "a smidgen", "a pinch" and "a dash. Never used them, easier to do a shake. Anna Belle On Tue, 28 Apr 2009 22:18:16 -0500, "Polly Esther" wrote: I'm with you, Dannielle. If we were doing one of our Pat on Her Hill's creations, I just might be willing to cut something point oh something - but for the 9-patch? Heck no. Just couldn't matter that much. Today I came across a recipe that called for 2/3 of a teaspoon. Decided a generous heap of one-half ought to do. Has anybody ever even seen a measuring spoon for thirds? Polly "dbeitzell" wroteAlright! I just did one, I put the original squares at 4 3/4", cause who on earth puts thirds on their rulers? NOBODY! With a scant 1/4" seam allowance and the horizontal and vertical cuts at 6 1/2", once sewn back together this block rocks! I have decided that this might just be "THE" block for my black and tan quilt. I will make it a different size, however, like start with all 5" blocks and roll on from there. As long as they are all the same, it shouldn't matter. One of these days I will make a Yellow Brick Road quilt. I swear! |
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Disappearing Nine Patch - Math help
On Apr 28, 3:06*pm, dbeitzell wrote:
snip who on earth puts thirds on their rulers? *NOBODY! Umm... Nerds do, of course. What you want is an "engineering scale" (or rule) - not an "architectural scale". http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Engineer's_scale You can find them at engineering and/or art supply stores. It's a ruler with a triangular cross-section. One of the scales is 30 ft. to the inch, so one third of an inch is 10' on the scale. DW appropriated one of mine for... get this... QUILTING! Nowadays, it should be easy enough to create & print one out on your computer. But if your printer isn't accurate enough, (or you're stuck on that desert island your math teacher always warned you about...) there's an old trick I learned in design class that will get the job done. 1. On a piece of paper (or label stock if you plan to stick it on the end of a ruler for future use) draw two parallel vertical lines about 6" long, exactly one inch apart. 2. Near the bottom of the two lines, line your standard ruler up at an angle so that the one inch mark is on the first (left) line, and the 2-1/2" mark is on the second (right) line. Make tick-marks at 1-1/2" and 2". 3. Repeat step 2 near the top of the two lines. 4. Draw vertical lines through the two sets of tick marks. You now have an inch divided EXACTLY (or as nearly as practical) into thirds. The same method can be used to divide an inch into just about any number of equal parts. Fifths of an inch? - no problem - or use the 50 scale on the engineering scale above. ;-) Doc Smith |
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