COE of Kokomo Glass?

Does anyone know the COE of Kokomo Stained Glass? I have called and
emailed this company a couple times with no answers. Every other
glass company has been a tremendous help, but not Kokomo.

Any help would be appreciated!


--
Janet

Since Kokomo does not apparently sell its glass for fusing, it does not
test for a specific compatibility with a COE, so its colors may vary wildly
in COE. The only time it would have problems if it could not make swirlies,
etc.
If you wish to use Kokomo, you will have to test colors against what ever
you want to use as base glass for strain.
Someone who has done the testing may be willing to share what they found,
but probably for only the specific colors they liked and tested.

--
Mike Firth
Hot Glass Bits Furnace Working Website
http://users.ticnet.com/mikefirth/hotbit46.htm Latest notes

"Janet R" wrote in message
m...

Does anyone know the COE of Kokomo Stained Glass? I have called and
emailed this company a couple times with no answers. Every other
glass company has been a tremendous help, but not Kokomo.

Any help would be appreciated!


--
Janet

Thanks...I have quite a bit of it due to a large clearance sale. I
use it lampworking, but have only been using individual glass for each
bead. I will test the glass before I make anything with a mixture.

Janet R

"Mike Firth" wrote in message
...
| Since Kokomo does not apparently sell its glass for fusing, it does
not
| test for a specific compatibility with a COE, so its colors may vary
wildly
| in COE. The only time it would have problems if it could not make
swirlies,
| etc.
| If you wish to use Kokomo, you will have to test colors against
what ever
| you want to use as base glass for strain.
| Someone who has done the testing may be willing to share what they
found,
| but probably for only the specific colors they liked and tested.
|
| --
| Mike Firth
| Hot Glass Bits Furnace Working Website
| http://users.ticnet.com/mikefirth/hotbit46.htm Latest notes
|
| "Janet R" wrote in message
| m...
|
| Does anyone know the COE of Kokomo Stained Glass? I have called
and
| emailed this company a couple times with no answers. Every other
| glass company has been a tremendous help, but not Kokomo.
|
| Any help would be appreciated!
|
|
| --
| Janet
|
|
|
|

i asked that of them a couple of years ago. here's their reply:

Bullseye & Uroboros both have chemical treated ring
mottels. As far as slumping our glass, I have experimented with slumping our
glass & have found that on the opals it is critical to catch the glass right
when it falls then vent the kiln down to 1050F as quickly as possible, then
follow your normal ramp down. Over firing is usually the cause of
devitrifacation. There are several studios that slump & fuse our glass with
great success. Here is some more info that might be helpful to you.

Some General Information about Fusing with Kokomo Glass



First and foremost, the following information is intended to assist you in
your experimenting and testing, and is expressly NOT intended to suggest
that we make any claims as to the suitability of our products for fusing. Or
to be plainer: fuse at your own risk.



Annealing Temperature for Cathedral Colors:



Anneal: 945 F

Strain Point: 872 F

COE: Generally in the neighborhood of 92-94, but you will need to test each
sheet if they are from different runs. Even different runs of the same color
can have significantly different fusing properties.



Annealing Temperatures for Opals:



Opal D Anneal: 891 F Strain Pt. 833
F

Opal M Anneal: 914 F Strain Pt. 851 F

Opal ML Anneal: 930 F Strain Pt. 862 F

Opal L Anneal: 936 F Strain Pt.
867 F



Typical Ramping Up—Allow 1 hour per ¼” of thickness. All kilns behave
differently. Test in your kiln to adjust for faster or slower times.
Projects with more surface area may require slower ramping.



Typical glasses will begin to sag at around 1050 F.



Annealing—Soak 1 hour per ¼” of thickness @ 945F

Ramp to strain point 872 F

(1/4” thick piece should take 2-3 hours)

Soak @ strain point 15 minutes per ¼” thickness

Ramp down to room temperature.

For ¼” thick piece, turn kiln off and do not vent until 250 F.



If you are fusing Kokomo glass, Experiment, Experiment, Experiment and Test,
Test, Test. Some colors devitrify more than others. Reds and yellows hate to
be fused.



"Janet R" wrote in message
m...

Does anyone know the COE of Kokomo Stained Glass? I have called and
emailed this company a couple times with no answers. Every other
glass company has been a tremendous help, but not Kokomo.

Any help would be appreciated!


--
Janet

Thanks! I will have to test it like crazy. I have been using it for
lampworking and its the only glass that has so many surprises.

I probably will stick to uroboros and soft glass for now.

Janet R


"Charles Spitzer" wrote in
message ...
|i asked that of them a couple of years ago. here's their reply:
|
| Bullseye & Uroboros both have chemical
treated ring
| mottels. As far as slumping our glass, I have experimented with
slumping our
| glass & have found that on the opals it is critical to catch the
glass right
| when it falls then vent the kiln down to 1050F as quickly as
possible, then
| follow your normal ramp down. Over firing is usually the cause of
| devitrifacation. There are several studios that slump & fuse our
glass with
| great success. Here is some more info that might be helpful to you.
|
| Some General Information about Fusing with Kokomo Glass
|
|
|
| First and foremost, the following information is intended to assist
you in
| your experimenting and testing, and is expressly NOT intended to
suggest
| that we make any claims as to the suitability of our products for
fusing. Or
| to be plainer: fuse at your own risk.
|
|
|
| Annealing Temperature for Cathedral Colors:
|
|
|
| Anneal: 945 F
|
| Strain Point: 872 F
|
| COE: Generally in the neighborhood of 92-94, but you will need to
test each
| sheet if they are from different runs. Even different runs of the
same color
| can have significantly different fusing properties.
|
|
|
| Annealing Temperatures for Opals:
|
|
|
| Opal D Anneal: 891 F Strain
Pt. 833
| F
|
| Opal M Anneal: 914 F Strain Pt. 851 F
|
| Opal ML Anneal: 930 F Strain
Pt. 862 F
|
| Opal L Anneal: 936 F
Strain Pt.
| 867 F
|
|
|
| Typical Ramping Up—Allow 1 hour per ¼” of thickness. All kilns
behave
| differently. Test in your kiln to adjust for faster or slower times.
| Projects with more surface area may require slower ramping.
|
|
|
| Typical glasses will begin to sag at around 1050 F.
|
|
|
| Annealing—Soak 1 hour per ¼” of thickness @ 945F
|
| Ramp to strain point 872 F
|
| (1/4” thick piece should take 2-3 hours)
|
| Soak @ strain point 15 minutes per ¼” thickness
|
| Ramp down to room temperature.
|
| For ¼” thick piece, turn kiln off and do not vent until 250 F.
|
|
|
| If you are fusing Kokomo glass, Experiment, Experiment, Experiment
and Test,
| Test, Test. Some colors devitrify more than others. Reds and yellows
hate to
| be fused.
|
|
|
| "Janet R" wrote in message
| m...
|
| Does anyone know the COE of Kokomo Stained Glass? I have called
and
| emailed this company a couple times with no answers. Every other
| glass company has been a tremendous help, but not Kokomo.
|
| Any help would be appreciated!
|
|
| --
| Janet
|
|
|
|