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For those who want to know.. Making Beach Glass With Your Tumbler!



 
 
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  #1  
Old December 18th 03, 09:25 PM
Harry
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default For those who want to know.. Making Beach Glass With Your Tumbler!

Here is very good instrutions on how to make beach glass and sea glass with your tumblers.

Making Beach Glass With Your Tumbler
One of the most common requests we get via email is for directions for tumbling glass to recreate the frosted matte
finish found in glass washed up on the beach. A rotary tumbler is recommended, as a vibratory machine won’t give you the
soft curves that are part of the seaglass look.
A few things to keep in mind about tumbling glass, in general:
*Safety: Handle broken glass with care! If you decide to break the glass yourself, put the glass objects in a heavy
fabric bag before wielding your hammer, and wear both safety goggles and gloves. You can either choose to work with
broken pieces of everyday glass (like bottles and jars), or for more variety in color and size/shape, try our slag
glass.
*Out-gassing: Glass -- whether manmade or natural (obsidian) -- produces gas during the process. Check your barrel at
least daily, and "burp" it if it shows any sign of swelling. You may also try adding a small amount of baking soda to
your mix to minimize the gas production, though not during any final polishing step.
*Cushioning your glass: Glass chips easily, so you should add something to your load to slow the process down. You can
use plastic pellets or a variety of other materials to do this, such as: corn syrup, cornstarch, sugar, molasses, rice
hulls, gelatin, sawdust. You will need to experiment to find the right level, as too much thickener will make each step
take longer than necessary.
*Rock hardness: Don't mix the glass (which is about Mohs 5) with any harder material.
Follow the regular directions for tumbling that came with your tumbler (or you can find them in our LEARN MORE section),
with these changes:
*Step One: Process using 120-180 grit silicon carbide if you need to remove a lot of material. Otherwise skip this step.
Cushion your load. Check the progress every day, which incidentally will relieve any gas build-up in your barrel. You
may not want to do this step for more than two or three days. Experimenting is the heart of creating seaglass!
*Step Two: Use 320 grit silicon carbide and a cushioning agent. Check your progress daily, and stop when you’ve gotten
the effect you want.
Instead of commercial grit some people just use ordinary beach sand -- if you want a lot of variation in your finished
product, this might be for you.
Polished Glass

If you have a rotary tumbler and want that jewel-like sheen in your finished glass, follow the directions for tumbling
stones with these changes:

*Step One: If your glass is rough (as obsidian may be) or needs a lot of shaping, start with the 1st step, using 120-180
grit silicon carbide. Add plastic pellets or one of the other cushioning agents listed above. Be careful that the load
level is right for your barrel. If, however, your glass is smoother, you may be able to skip this step and go onto the
Step Two. Check the progress every day or two, which incidentally will relieve any gas build-up in your barrel. Wash
your glass and the barrel thoroughly when the step is finished.
DON'T WASH THE SLURRY DOWN THE DRAIN!

*Step Two: Use 320 grit silicon carbide and a cushioning agent. Be careful with your load level. If it's getting too
low, add (fresh or recycled from an earlier Step Two) plastic pellets. Check the progress and wash your glass and barrel
as above.

*Step Three (Pre-Polish): Use 600 grit silicon carbide and a cushioning agent. Be careful with your load level. Check
the progress and wash your glass and barrel as above.

*Step Three-A (Second Pre-Polish): Don't skip this step with glass! Use 600 grit aluminum oxide, rather than silicon
carbide, as the different characteristics of the media will smooth scratches left by the silicon carbide. Use a
cushioning agent, bring your load up to the proper level, and check progress and wash the glass and barrel as above.

*Step Four (Polish): Use Cerium Oxide or Chrome Oxide polish. Use a cushioning agent, check your load level, and check
progress as above. If your glass still has a slight haze, burnish following the directions for tumbling stones.

If you are using a vibratory tumbler, keep in mind that not as much rounding of the glass will occur. If your pieces are
a lot more jagged in shape than you like, you may want to do the first step or two in a rotary tumbler if you have
access to one. Otherwise, follow the directions for vibratory tumbling, with these exceptions:


*Step One: Skip if your glass is not rough. If it seems advisable to complete this step, use 120-220 grit silicon
carbide. You may want to use a cushioning agent -- but not plastic pellets. Wash your glass and hopper thoroughly when
the step is finished.

*Step Two: Use 220 grit silicon carbide and consider using a cushioning agent. Wash as above.

*Step Three: Use 600 grit silicon carbide and cushion if necessary. Wash as above.

*Step Four (Pre-Polish): Use 600 grit aluminum oxide as outlined in vibratory tumbling. Wash thoroughly.

*Step Five (Polish - Wet): Use Cerium Substitute or .8-1 micron aluminum oxide; follow manufacturer’s suggestions as to
amount. You may use 1 to 4 cubes of sugar per lb. of load as a cushioning agent if it seems necessary. Wash thoroughly
and burnish as needed.

*Alternate Step Five (Polish - Dry): An alternative polishing method you can use with a vibratory tumbler is to process
your glass without water. Use Vibra-Dry in three steps, using #600, then #2500, and finally #25000 in 2 to 3 day runs.
You may also try simply using cerium oxide and a lot of cornmeal, running the step for 3 to 4 days.




Seaglass

Achieving a soft, matte finish on your glass is much easier than going for a high polish. A rotary tumbler is
recommended, as a vibratory machine won’t give you the soft curves that are part of the seaglass look. Using a
cushioning agent -- plastic pellets or one of the others listed above -- will reduce chips and fractures.

*Step One: Process using 120-180 grit silicon carbide if you need to remove a lot of material. Otherwise skip this step.
Cushion your load. Check the progress every day, which incidentally will relieve any gas build-up in your barrel. You
may not want to do this step for more than two or three days. Experimenting is the heart of creating seaglass!

Wash your glass when the step is finished.

*Step Two: Use 320 grit silicon carbide and a cushioning agent. Check your progress daily, and stop when you’ve gotten
the effect you want.

Instead of commercial grit some people just use ordinary beach sand, or that sold in hardware stores for making
concrete. If you want a lot of variation in your finished product, this might be for you.

Have fun.. and start creating and doing other things with your tumblers other than just polishing.




Harry's Happy Place
http://harryb41.homestead.com/HarrysHappyPlace.html

My Ebay Auctions
http://cgi6.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...sort=3&rows=50
Ads
  #2  
Old December 19th 03, 09:49 PM
roxan
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Thanks Harry for this good information.
Roxan
"Harry" wrote in message
...
Here is very good instrutions on how to make beach glass and sea glass

with your tumblers.

Making Beach Glass With Your Tumbler
One of the most common requests we get via email is for directions for

tumbling glass to recreate the frosted matte
finish found in glass washed up on the beach. A rotary tumbler is

recommended, as a vibratory machine won't give you the
soft curves that are part of the seaglass look.
A few things to keep in mind about tumbling glass, in general:
*Safety: Handle broken glass with care! If you decide to break the glass

yourself, put the glass objects in a heavy
fabric bag before wielding your hammer, and wear both safety goggles and

gloves. You can either choose to work with
broken pieces of everyday glass (like bottles and jars), or for more

variety in color and size/shape, try our slag
glass.
*Out-gassing: Glass -- whether manmade or natural (obsidian) -- produces

gas during the process. Check your barrel at
least daily, and "burp" it if it shows any sign of swelling. You may also

try adding a small amount of baking soda to
your mix to minimize the gas production, though not during any final

polishing step.
*Cushioning your glass: Glass chips easily, so you should add something to

your load to slow the process down. You can
use plastic pellets or a variety of other materials to do this, such as:

corn syrup, cornstarch, sugar, molasses, rice
hulls, gelatin, sawdust. You will need to experiment to find the right

level, as too much thickener will make each step
take longer than necessary.
*Rock hardness: Don't mix the glass (which is about Mohs 5) with any

harder material.
Follow the regular directions for tumbling that came with your tumbler (or

you can find them in our LEARN MORE section),
with these changes:
*Step One: Process using 120-180 grit silicon carbide if you need to

remove a lot of material. Otherwise skip this step.
Cushion your load. Check the progress every day, which incidentally will

relieve any gas build-up in your barrel. You
may not want to do this step for more than two or three days.

Experimenting is the heart of creating seaglass!
*Step Two: Use 320 grit silicon carbide and a cushioning agent. Check your

progress daily, and stop when you've gotten
the effect you want.
Instead of commercial grit some people just use ordinary beach sand -- if

you want a lot of variation in your finished
product, this might be for you.
Polished Glass

If you have a rotary tumbler and want that jewel-like sheen in your

finished glass, follow the directions for tumbling
stones with these changes:

*Step One: If your glass is rough (as obsidian may be) or needs a lot of

shaping, start with the 1st step, using 120-180
grit silicon carbide. Add plastic pellets or one of the other cushioning

agents listed above. Be careful that the load
level is right for your barrel. If, however, your glass is smoother, you

may be able to skip this step and go onto the
Step Two. Check the progress every day or two, which incidentally will

relieve any gas build-up in your barrel. Wash
your glass and the barrel thoroughly when the step is finished.
DON'T WASH THE SLURRY DOWN THE DRAIN!

*Step Two: Use 320 grit silicon carbide and a cushioning agent. Be careful

with your load level. If it's getting too
low, add (fresh or recycled from an earlier Step Two) plastic pellets.

Check the progress and wash your glass and barrel
as above.

*Step Three (Pre-Polish): Use 600 grit silicon carbide and a cushioning

agent. Be careful with your load level. Check
the progress and wash your glass and barrel as above.

*Step Three-A (Second Pre-Polish): Don't skip this step with glass! Use

600 grit aluminum oxide, rather than silicon
carbide, as the different characteristics of the media will smooth

scratches left by the silicon carbide. Use a
cushioning agent, bring your load up to the proper level, and check

progress and wash the glass and barrel as above.

*Step Four (Polish): Use Cerium Oxide or Chrome Oxide polish. Use a

cushioning agent, check your load level, and check
progress as above. If your glass still has a slight haze, burnish

following the directions for tumbling stones.

If you are using a vibratory tumbler, keep in mind that not as much

rounding of the glass will occur. If your pieces are
a lot more jagged in shape than you like, you may want to do the first

step or two in a rotary tumbler if you have
access to one. Otherwise, follow the directions for vibratory tumbling,

with these exceptions:


*Step One: Skip if your glass is not rough. If it seems advisable to

complete this step, use 120-220 grit silicon
carbide. You may want to use a cushioning agent -- but not plastic

pellets. Wash your glass and hopper thoroughly when
the step is finished.

*Step Two: Use 220 grit silicon carbide and consider using a cushioning

agent. Wash as above.

*Step Three: Use 600 grit silicon carbide and cushion if necessary. Wash

as above.

*Step Four (Pre-Polish): Use 600 grit aluminum oxide as outlined in

vibratory tumbling. Wash thoroughly.

*Step Five (Polish - Wet): Use Cerium Substitute or .8-1 micron aluminum

oxide; follow manufacturer's suggestions as to
amount. You may use 1 to 4 cubes of sugar per lb. of load as a cushioning

agent if it seems necessary. Wash thoroughly
and burnish as needed.

*Alternate Step Five (Polish - Dry): An alternative polishing method you

can use with a vibratory tumbler is to process
your glass without water. Use Vibra-Dry in three steps, using #600, then

#2500, and finally #25000 in 2 to 3 day runs.
You may also try simply using cerium oxide and a lot of cornmeal, running

the step for 3 to 4 days.




Seaglass

Achieving a soft, matte finish on your glass is much easier than going for

a high polish. A rotary tumbler is
recommended, as a vibratory machine won't give you the soft curves that

are part of the seaglass look. Using a
cushioning agent -- plastic pellets or one of the others listed above --

will reduce chips and fractures.

*Step One: Process using 120-180 grit silicon carbide if you need to

remove a lot of material. Otherwise skip this step.
Cushion your load. Check the progress every day, which incidentally will

relieve any gas build-up in your barrel. You
may not want to do this step for more than two or three days.

Experimenting is the heart of creating seaglass!

Wash your glass when the step is finished.

*Step Two: Use 320 grit silicon carbide and a cushioning agent. Check your

progress daily, and stop when you've gotten
the effect you want.

Instead of commercial grit some people just use ordinary beach sand, or

that sold in hardware stores for making
concrete. If you want a lot of variation in your finished product, this

might be for you.

Have fun.. and start creating and doing other things with your tumblers

other than just polishing.




Harry's Happy Place
http://harryb41.homestead.com/HarrysHappyPlace.html

My Ebay Auctions

http://cgi6.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...id=harryb4 1&
include=0&since=-1&sort=3&rows=50

  #3  
Old December 19th 03, 11:01 PM
Harry
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

On Fri, 19 Dec 2003 16:49:34 -0500, "roxan" wrote:
You are very welcome. If anyone would want or need instrutions on
tumbling your own Paua Shell please ask. I will also provide you
with the link to where I personally buy the raw Paua shell to tumble.

Thanks Harry for this good information.
Roxan
"Harry" wrote in message
.. .
Here is very good instrutions on how to make beach glass and sea glass

with your tumblers.

Making Beach Glass With Your Tumbler
One of the most common requests we get via email is for directions for

tumbling glass to recreate the frosted matte
finish found in glass washed up on the beach. A rotary tumbler is

recommended, as a vibratory machine won't give you the
soft curves that are part of the seaglass look.
A few things to keep in mind about tumbling glass, in general:
*Safety: Handle broken glass with care! If you decide to break the glass

yourself, put the glass objects in a heavy
fabric bag before wielding your hammer, and wear both safety goggles and

gloves. You can either choose to work with
broken pieces of everyday glass (like bottles and jars), or for more

variety in color and size/shape, try our slag
glass.
*Out-gassing: Glass -- whether manmade or natural (obsidian) -- produces

gas during the process. Check your barrel at
least daily, and "burp" it if it shows any sign of swelling. You may also

try adding a small amount of baking soda to
your mix to minimize the gas production, though not during any final

polishing step.
*Cushioning your glass: Glass chips easily, so you should add something to

your load to slow the process down. You can
use plastic pellets or a variety of other materials to do this, such as:

corn syrup, cornstarch, sugar, molasses, rice
hulls, gelatin, sawdust. You will need to experiment to find the right

level, as too much thickener will make each step
take longer than necessary.
*Rock hardness: Don't mix the glass (which is about Mohs 5) with any

harder material.
Follow the regular directions for tumbling that came with your tumbler (or

you can find them in our LEARN MORE section),
with these changes:
*Step One: Process using 120-180 grit silicon carbide if you need to

remove a lot of material. Otherwise skip this step.
Cushion your load. Check the progress every day, which incidentally will

relieve any gas build-up in your barrel. You
may not want to do this step for more than two or three days.

Experimenting is the heart of creating seaglass!
*Step Two: Use 320 grit silicon carbide and a cushioning agent. Check your

progress daily, and stop when you've gotten
the effect you want.
Instead of commercial grit some people just use ordinary beach sand -- if

you want a lot of variation in your finished
product, this might be for you.
Polished Glass

If you have a rotary tumbler and want that jewel-like sheen in your

finished glass, follow the directions for tumbling
stones with these changes:

*Step One: If your glass is rough (as obsidian may be) or needs a lot of

shaping, start with the 1st step, using 120-180
grit silicon carbide. Add plastic pellets or one of the other cushioning

agents listed above. Be careful that the load
level is right for your barrel. If, however, your glass is smoother, you

may be able to skip this step and go onto the
Step Two. Check the progress every day or two, which incidentally will

relieve any gas build-up in your barrel. Wash
your glass and the barrel thoroughly when the step is finished.
DON'T WASH THE SLURRY DOWN THE DRAIN!

*Step Two: Use 320 grit silicon carbide and a cushioning agent. Be careful

with your load level. If it's getting too
low, add (fresh or recycled from an earlier Step Two) plastic pellets.

Check the progress and wash your glass and barrel
as above.

*Step Three (Pre-Polish): Use 600 grit silicon carbide and a cushioning

agent. Be careful with your load level. Check
the progress and wash your glass and barrel as above.

*Step Three-A (Second Pre-Polish): Don't skip this step with glass! Use

600 grit aluminum oxide, rather than silicon
carbide, as the different characteristics of the media will smooth

scratches left by the silicon carbide. Use a
cushioning agent, bring your load up to the proper level, and check

progress and wash the glass and barrel as above.

*Step Four (Polish): Use Cerium Oxide or Chrome Oxide polish. Use a

cushioning agent, check your load level, and check
progress as above. If your glass still has a slight haze, burnish

following the directions for tumbling stones.

If you are using a vibratory tumbler, keep in mind that not as much

rounding of the glass will occur. If your pieces are
a lot more jagged in shape than you like, you may want to do the first

step or two in a rotary tumbler if you have
access to one. Otherwise, follow the directions for vibratory tumbling,

with these exceptions:


*Step One: Skip if your glass is not rough. If it seems advisable to

complete this step, use 120-220 grit silicon
carbide. You may want to use a cushioning agent -- but not plastic

pellets. Wash your glass and hopper thoroughly when
the step is finished.

*Step Two: Use 220 grit silicon carbide and consider using a cushioning

agent. Wash as above.

*Step Three: Use 600 grit silicon carbide and cushion if necessary. Wash

as above.

*Step Four (Pre-Polish): Use 600 grit aluminum oxide as outlined in

vibratory tumbling. Wash thoroughly.

*Step Five (Polish - Wet): Use Cerium Substitute or .8-1 micron aluminum

oxide; follow manufacturer's suggestions as to
amount. You may use 1 to 4 cubes of sugar per lb. of load as a cushioning

agent if it seems necessary. Wash thoroughly
and burnish as needed.

*Alternate Step Five (Polish - Dry): An alternative polishing method you

can use with a vibratory tumbler is to process
your glass without water. Use Vibra-Dry in three steps, using #600, then

#2500, and finally #25000 in 2 to 3 day runs.
You may also try simply using cerium oxide and a lot of cornmeal, running

the step for 3 to 4 days.




Seaglass

Achieving a soft, matte finish on your glass is much easier than going for

a high polish. A rotary tumbler is
recommended, as a vibratory machine won't give you the soft curves that

are part of the seaglass look. Using a
cushioning agent -- plastic pellets or one of the others listed above --

will reduce chips and fractures.

*Step One: Process using 120-180 grit silicon carbide if you need to

remove a lot of material. Otherwise skip this step.
Cushion your load. Check the progress every day, which incidentally will

relieve any gas build-up in your barrel. You
may not want to do this step for more than two or three days.

Experimenting is the heart of creating seaglass!

Wash your glass when the step is finished.

*Step Two: Use 320 grit silicon carbide and a cushioning agent. Check your

progress daily, and stop when you've gotten
the effect you want.

Instead of commercial grit some people just use ordinary beach sand, or

that sold in hardware stores for making
concrete. If you want a lot of variation in your finished product, this

might be for you.

Have fun.. and start creating and doing other things with your tumblers

other than just polishing.




Harry's Happy Place
http://harryb41.homestead.com/HarrysHappyPlace.html

My Ebay Auctions

http://cgi6.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...id=harryb4 1&
include=0&since=-1&sort=3&rows=50






Harry's Happy Place
http://harryb41.homestead.com/HarrysHappyPlace.html

My Ebay Auctions
http://cgi6.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...sort=3&rows=50
  #4  
Old December 20th 03, 02:16 AM
BeckiBead
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Harry -- welcome, Cleveburg man, from Columbus! (waving up to you)

Do you have a Dremel or the ability to drill holes in your shell pieces? I
only work with beads -- don't know what to do with Paua shell all by it's
lonesome. They are gorgeous. If you want to put holes in some I will buy
them.


Becki
"In between the moon and you, the angels have a better view of the crumbling
difference between wrong and right." -- Counting Crows
  #6  
Old December 21st 03, 06:17 PM
BeckiBead
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Harry -- very very little snow here on the ground, and I LIKE IT THAT WAY so
don't jinx us. If you make some with holes let me know.


Becki
"In between the moon and you, the angels have a better view of the crumbling
difference between wrong and right." -- Counting Crows
 




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