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#11
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The Death of Ski Sweaters and Ganseys - Long
I think Aaron that the real reason for this is that manmade Non knit
sport clothes are esier to take care of , than handknits , and that is the main reason for less use of kbnitted sweaters . Also so manmde material Suits are Water proof, which is usefull when somebody skies. And last but not least the long time that many people knitted less ,, you have to remember that knitting is having a Come back....but for so many years many women didn`t knit ...It was Cheaper easier and much more REASONABLE to use the wonderful easy to take care of wonderful ready made Sports suits. With all respect to your words , you start your idea from the end result and work it back to explain it.On the way you sort of disregard the Trend , the changes in working forces [ more women working with having kids and having to copre with 100s other `little duties` - thus no time to knit`. It might do you good to read a bit about Herstory, and see how that affected the use of certain clothing items. Social trends are affected not only by 'Heating` , they are much more affected by the Economic Needs of the powers that Be , that needed the women in the Workforce , thus fashion and trends were mobilized, just like in the 15th century when women were shown the pictures of the "Knitting Maddona " with the Behind push to become 'housewives' , Now trends and fashions had the behind push "Buy more ready mades go work in office !!!!" ... mirjam mirjam Yarnstandards.com is the end of ski sweaters and fisherman's ganseys. I am not saying that the Standard Yarn Weight System is the cause of the end of ski sweaters and fisherman's sweaters, any more than a bridge is the cause of the end of a road, but when you get to the end of the road, there is the bridge. Nobody skis in sweaters any more, for one very good reason - Modern sweaters are too loosely knit. A real ski sweater needs to be tightly knit and close fitting. (Recently, I went downhill skiing, and was the only one on the slopes wearing a sweater. There were many people in the lodge, the restaurants, the shops, and the town wearing "ski sweaters," so I know "ski sweaters" were around, but I was the only person actually skiing in a sweater.) Modern designers assume that their creations will be worn in modern heated environments, and therefore should not be too warm. These days, skiers wear their sweaters in the car, and in the lodge, and not schussing down the slopes. Thus, modern ski sweaters are knit loosely and have a loose fit that keeps them from being too warm. Likewise, nobody wears fisherman's sweaters fishing any more! So, designs that were traditionally knit tightly to be very warm are now knit loosely, so they are not so warm. (Fine stitch patterns are now done large and look crude.) We have established a feedback cycle. Our knit goods are designed to be cooler, so that they can be worn in warmer environments. Then, when somebody wants real cold weather gear, they select a pile jacket rather than the available knit goods. If people are not wearing knit goods in really cold environments, then there is more tendency to design knit goods that are not so warm -- that is: loosely knit and loosely fitting. Today we design sweaters for folks that are going to the mall, rather than for folks that are going to fish, or to ski or sailing , or to follow the hunt. We have abandoned the sports wear market. We make imitation sports wear. The needle recommendations in the yarn standards are to knit fabrics that are loose, and not too warm. As long as we follow those recommendations, our knitting will be porous to the drafts, and flutter in the breeze. And worse, they will sag. And they will not be so durable, after all, the standards assume that you want a "cool" fashion statement. Save your man from frostbite. Knit him a ski sweater out of worsted weight wool on #3 needles. Keep your boy warm by knitting him a gansey out of DK weight on # 1 needles. (Then, send them off skiing and fishing. They need the exercise!) And then, make yourself a cup of tea with water heated on a fire fueled by a your print out of the Standard Yarn Weight System, because the price of energy is going up and we are going to need warmer sweaters. Aaron |
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#12
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The Death of Ski Sweaters and Ganseys - Long
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#13
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The Death of Ski Sweaters and Ganseys - Long & Dry
I went to mall, after mall, after mall, and I looked at commercially
available ski sweaters and noting that they were not as suitable for skiing as sweaters available 40 years ago. The sweaters that I skied in 40 years ago were also commercially machine knit. My post was to note a change in commercial practice since WWII that had implications for the craft and hobby of knitting. As I was leaning about knitting ganseys, I would knit swatches using the needles recommended on the yarn band, and not get the results that I was seeking. I found this very confusing and frustrating. My post was the result of puzzling on this for a couple of years. I stated that the needles commonly recommended on yarn bands are not the correct needles for real ski sweaters and real ganseys. The Yarn Standards reflect recent practices of knitwear designers. These designers try to maximize the appeal of their garments. Since more Yankees go to the mall, than go skiing or sailing, these designers produce garments that are more suitable for mall wear than for skiing or for sailing. My post was to remind hobby knitters of the traditions of knitting on finer needles. One virtue of knitting is that truly beautiful garments can be constructed out of a wide variety of materials including silk, acrylic, nylon, and polypropylene. But, some traditional knit fabric constructions take great advantage of properties unique to particular wool yarns. Such garments are more elegantly attractive than any "sports suit". However, I believe that because knit wool is inherently warm, many modern knitwear designers compromised these traditional approaches to fabric construction to produce garments that are more appropriate in warmer environments (and cheaper!!!) In these compromises, some of the traditional beauty and functionality of the traditional constructions has been lost. That is the nature of compromises. My post was to remind folks that the traditional knitwear constructions have their own significant virtues. Most craft and hobby knitters will want to follow the lead of modern knitwear designers and knit looser fabrics with more "ease". Modern knitwear designer are after all -- experts. My post was to remind knitters that there are alternative approaches that can produce truly wonderful results. One can deviate from the yarn standard, and still produce "superior" knitting. As hobbyists, we (sometimes) have the luxury of devoting extravagant amounts of time to knitting products that are far superior to items commercially produced for the mass market. My post was to point out an opportunity for competent amateurs to produce results that far exceed those of the modern professionals. Such opportunities are rare. Aaron "Mirjam Bruck-Cohen" wrote in message ... I think Aaron that the real reason for this is that manmade Non knit sport clothes are esier to take care of , than handknits , and that is the main reason for less use of kbnitted sweaters . Also so manmde material Suits are Water proof, which is usefull when somebody skies. And last but not least the long time that many people knitted less ,, you have to remember that knitting is having a Come back....but for so many years many women didn`t knit ...It was Cheaper easier and much more REASONABLE to use the wonderful easy to take care of wonderful ready made Sports suits. With all respect to your words , you start your idea from the end result and work it back to explain it.On the way you sort of disregard the Trend , the changes in working forces [ more women working with having kids and having to copre with 100s other `little duties` - thus no time to knit`. It might do you good to read a bit about Herstory, and see how that affected the use of certain clothing items. Social trends are affected not only by 'Heating` , they are much more affected by the Economic Needs of the powers that Be , that needed the women in the Workforce , thus fashion and trends were mobilized, just like in the 15th century when women were shown the pictures of the "Knitting Maddona " with the Behind push to become 'housewives' , Now trends and fashions had the behind push "Buy more ready mades go work in office !!!!" ... mirjam mirjam Yarnstandards.com is the end of ski sweaters and fisherman's ganseys. I am not saying that the Standard Yarn Weight System is the cause of the end of ski sweaters and fisherman's sweaters, any more than a bridge is the cause of the end of a road, but when you get to the end of the road, there is the bridge. Nobody skis in sweaters any more, for one very good reason - Modern sweaters are too loosely knit. A real ski sweater needs to be tightly knit and close fitting. (Recently, I went downhill skiing, and was the only one on the slopes wearing a sweater. There were many people in the lodge, the restaurants, the shops, and the town wearing "ski sweaters," so I know "ski sweaters" were around, but I was the only person actually skiing in a sweater.) Modern designers assume that their creations will be worn in modern heated environments, and therefore should not be too warm. These days, skiers wear their sweaters in the car, and in the lodge, and not schussing down the slopes. Thus, modern ski sweaters are knit loosely and have a loose fit that keeps them from being too warm. Likewise, nobody wears fisherman's sweaters fishing any more! So, designs that were traditionally knit tightly to be very warm are now knit loosely, so they are not so warm. (Fine stitch patterns are now done large and look crude.) We have established a feedback cycle. Our knit goods are designed to be cooler, so that they can be worn in warmer environments. Then, when somebody wants real cold weather gear, they select a pile jacket rather than the available knit goods. If people are not wearing knit goods in really cold environments, then there is more tendency to design knit goods that are not so warm -- that is: loosely knit and loosely fitting. Today we design sweaters for folks that are going to the mall, rather than for folks that are going to fish, or to ski or sailing , or to follow the hunt. We have abandoned the sports wear market. We make imitation sports wear. The needle recommendations in the yarn standards are to knit fabrics that are loose, and not too warm. As long as we follow those recommendations, our knitting will be porous to the drafts, and flutter in the breeze. And worse, they will sag. And they will not be so durable, after all, the standards assume that you want a "cool" fashion statement. Save your man from frostbite. Knit him a ski sweater out of worsted weight wool on #3 needles. Keep your boy warm by knitting him a gansey out of DK weight on # 1 needles. (Then, send them off skiing and fishing. They need the exercise!) And then, make yourself a cup of tea with water heated on a fire fueled by a your print out of the Standard Yarn Weight System, because the price of energy is going up and we are going to need warmer sweaters. Aaron |
#14
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The Death of Ski Sweaters and Ganseys - Long & Dry
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#15
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The Death of Ski Sweaters and Ganseys - Long
A bobble is either a mistake, or a decorative stitch that takes a long time
to knit. Bad pun! "Katherine" wrote in message ... wrote: It is my "bobbles" that slow me down! Why? Higs, Katherine |
#16
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The Death of Ski Sweaters and Ganseys - Long & Dry
"suzee" wrote in message ... wrote: I went to mall, after mall, after mall, and I looked at commercially available ski sweaters and noting that they were not as suitable for skiing as sweaters available 40 years ago. The sweaters that I skied in 40 years ago were also commercially machine knit. My post was to note a change in commercial practice since WWII that had implications for the craft and hobby of knitting. Ahhh, the question is - did you go to any ski shops? I've been in some in the past few years and the sweaters are knit similarly to the ones of 30+ years ago. Department store `ski sweaters' aren't made to be skied in, but to be seen in -- at the lodge. Your point about "Department store sweaters" is my theme exactly. Now, we are just talking about time lines and extent. The malls were in Trucky, South Lake Tahoe, Squaw Valley, Snow Bird, (UT), Steam Boat Springs, (CO) amoungst others. All real near ski resorts. (A ski buddy had an insatiable need to visit Internet Cafes.) One "mall" consistes of a ski equipment shop, a ski rental shop, a ski clothing shop, a ski waxing shop, and a coffee shop near Sugar Bowl. I like the owner, he has a lot of old ski gear and photos of skiers dating back to the 1920's. That is the place that got me thinking about this theme. ----- Of course this is just Calfornia and it never really gets cold here. Who needs real ski sweaters here? Aaron SNIP Thank you for your reminder. sue |
#18
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The Death of Ski Sweaters and Ganseys - Long
Snipping down to the last paragraph.
Aaron wrote: Save your man from frostbite. Knit him a ski sweater out of worsted weight wool on #3 needles. Keep your boy warm by knitting him a gansey out of DK weight on # 1 needles. (Then, send them off skiing and fishing. They need the exercise!) And then, make yourself a cup of tea with water heated on a fire fueled by a your print out of the Standard Yarn Weight System, because the price of energy is going up and we are going to need warmer sweaters. You know, I recently made my daughter a sweater using size 3 needles and fingering yarn, which is what the pattern called for, and it's incredibly light. She absolutely loves it and wears it constantly, but I can't help but think that it can't be all that warm. Then again, I'm in Anaheim, CA, and it doesn't get "cold" here, but something a bit sturdier would be nice when the winds whip up. After reading your post I've decided to make the same pattern - it's a Debbie Bliss pattern with lots of cables - using a worsted yarn so she has a nice warm sweater for next winter. Thanks for the inspiration, Aaron. Maybe now is the time to dig up that Alice Starmore _Fisherman Knits_ book and try that one I've been drooling over for years... The Other Kim kimagreenfieldatyahoodotcom |
#19
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The Death of Ski Sweaters and Ganseys - Long
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#20
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The Death of Ski Sweaters and Ganseys - Long & Dry
AARON , 40 years ago ????
Materials have changed , trends and ways of life have changed , Even if a pattern from 40 years ago would be used today , the character of the wool and the wearer wouldn`t be the same... A change in Commercial practice CANNOT be dealt with a factor in itself !!! it is a a part in a great `knit` of many other factors. A change in commercial attitude comes from a change in life habits. Sometimes it comes before the change , which is already in the happening but not so Visible , sometimes it shows up at the same time ..... If you use this Measure ",,,,,, which i had 40 years ago ....." may i remind you that your shoes also are different , yourself is different, your food habits and possibilities are different, not to forget your car and your Communication possibilities .......::: I went to mall, after mall, after mall, and I looked at commercially available ski sweaters and noting that they were not as suitable for skiing as sweaters available 40 years ago. The sweaters that I skied in 40 years ago were also commercially machine knit. I am not sure i follow or agree with you on the following remark, one could EASILY turn this around , more woman went out to work , = thus less woman had time to knit for their family =hence changing habits or possibilities for hand knitting changed the practice and request from the commerce !!!!! + less will to look different .....Everybody wanted to look like others ,,,, have the same Jeans the same sweaters like Movie stars[lets] etc.. 40 years ago ,,, yeah i remember .... My post was to note a change in commercial practice since WWII that had implications for the craft and hobby of knitting. NOT every person knits the same GUAGUE , that why they give you those numbers ,,,, you should GUAGUE EACH WOOL , the expert knitter doesn`t FORCE the needles or wool to be in the Given Guague , you use it as a guide , swatch your own , and than change all stich numbers with your own Guagued number ... As I was leaning about knitting ganseys, I would knit swatches using the needles recommended on the yarn band, and not get the results that I was seeking. I found this very confusing and frustrating. My post was the result of puzzling on this for a couple of years. I stated that the needles commonly recommended on yarn bands are not the correct needles for real ski Now you puzzle me , Needles aren`t recomended , or you should NOT se this as a recomendation , just a fact ,, that the Commercial Knitter of this pattern , used a ceratin needle and got X number of stiches to knit y number of cm ,,,,,, you always should try to se how many stiches make how many cm or inches for YOU ..... sweaters and real ganseys. The Yarn Standards reflect recent practices of knitwear designers. These designers try to maximize the appeal of their garments. Since more Yankees go to the mall, than go skiing or sailing, these designers produce garments that are more suitable for mall wear than for skiing or for sailing. My post was to remind hobby knitters of the traditions of knitting on finer needles. Thank you , i understand this as a very kind offer , but i also think that the use of needles is a very personal matter as No knitter is the same ... needles should be enjoyed by the knitter , be a help not a liability nore something to feel `wrong` about ,,, every knitter should feel free to chose what suits her /him . One virtue of knitting is that truly beautiful garments can be constructed out of a wide variety of materials including silk, acrylic, nylon, and polypropylene. But, some traditional knit fabric constructions take great advantage of properties unique to particular wool yarns. Traditional , is a relative word , traditional wasn`t so close to polypropylene or acrilycs etc,,,, and for that matter i wouldn`t even call nylon traditional knitting ... [ladies who knew how to repair nylon stockings were called "Artistic Repaireres" and had specail electric needles to do it. Traditional means that the local knitters used what they had !!! and by use of several generations dveloped some habits of how to make the bst use of their materials ,,,, Steeking for example is Unique to Scandinavian countries , Not seen anywhere else . Silk Kniting was used for Royal socks , later for many Costly socks ,, for Clerical wear and rarely for the `common knitter` , Silk knitted was weighted to see if knitter didn`t steal some... I don`t think the kind of wool determined the `finer` lines of those knits , but the patterns used , the short rows , the decresse and increse of stiches and the general idea that knit was `another form of [woven ] cloth , not a cloth with some extra traits , one could use as such!!!! Thus since ALL clothes at the time were CLOSE FIT to one`s body so were Knits .. 40 years ago ladies still wore `supportive` [ more like restrictive!!!] underwear, Body lines were `sculptured` to look like certain forms the MODA designers invented. and ladies still under the fantasie of FRENCH COUTURE went along with it .... So if you wish for Better Fitting Knits i would advice you to start with selling Supportive /restrictice Girdles , Stuffed Bras, and of course Corsets .....I don`t see many women willing to do that nowadays .... And i have a little news for you as well , tight fitting knits aren`t Neccessarily warmer than the bit looser fitting ones ,,,, After all it the air in between that keeps us warmer ,,, i am much warmer in skirts than in tight fitting pants ,,,, And at those times my mother used to knit pants for me !!!! Such garments are more elegantly attractive than any "sports suit". However, I believe that because knit wool is inherently warm, many modern knitwear designers compromised these traditional approaches to fabric construction to produce garments that are more appropriate in warmer environments (and cheaper!!!) I think you are seeing it in the wrong eyes modern designers understood that knitting IS NOT woven cloth and Hence it shoul NOT be treated with the same `construction` rules as woven cloth , Knits are elastic and fluid Construction seams are prohibitive, and rigid . THe Mumify the wearer into a certain Accepted form. Knitting is the freedom and easiness of a body to be what nature gave it. Maybe Being a man You don`t think about it as we Woman , Nature gave us bodies that change with life. What you are writing to me , is that you want me to shape my body into a fantasy, you don`t allow me to enjoy the natural changes Nature allowed me to enjoy. In these compromises, some of the traditional beauty and functionality of the traditional constructions has been lost. That is the nature of compromises. My post was to remind folks that the traditional knitwear constructions have their own significant virtues. Are you still walking or biking to work ? do you cook and bakle your own food ? do you wear a 3 part Suit , with a Hardened Collar, Do you wear a tie every day ,, I hope you don`t use Tissues , but wipe your nose on a White handkerchief !!! No nikes to work, Of course you wear black or brown shoes which you Brush every day.... I am a weaver as well, and a crocheter , and i must tell you that the more i wove the more i understood that each Cloth has different uses and Traits ,, knits are different woven cloth is different crochet is different , Why impose assembling methods that are wonderful for one on the other, A true Craft person LISTENS to the materials and works WITH the materials , with their traits and doesn`t want to impose on them something that is forign to their nature. YES some of the modern designers are EXPERTS , they have learned about the True nature of the materials and try to work with their traits , not impose on them restrictions that will Shape people, into some image ,, The Cultural WAR going on mow in the world , is Just about that , betwen those who want to control part of your life , and those who want to control Every bit of your life !!! I understand your writing and appreciate that you explain your motive, but i would appreciate it even more if you will base some of it on more global wide information. Some of your assumptions are nice or even cute, but lack some of the wider background. I also think it isn`t kind to write that you want to point out to hobbists and amatheurs,,,, you don`t know who reads youyr posts , and what their level of knowledge is in tottal and copmpared to yours. I believe and trust that everybody has the same knowledge i have , unless prooven differently , and even than , who am i to call somebody names like you freely do . Every one here experts in some parts of our loved craft , and eagerly learns more from the others who expert in other parts of it . !!!! I am also amazed that you look down on.`.modern designers.`.. of course some are better some aren`t working to your taste , so what ? who gives you the right to look down on them ? If you like different type of knits go ahead and knit them , or publish your own designs , there is no need to speak in generalities about a whole group , many of whom you have never met. mirjam Most craft and hobby knitters will want to follow the lead of modern knitwear designers and knit looser fabrics with more "ease". Modern knitwear designer are after all -- experts. My post was to remind knitters that there are alternative approaches that can produce truly wonderful results. One can deviate from the yarn standard, and still produce "superior" knitting. As hobbyists, we (sometimes) have the luxury of devoting extravagant amounts of time to knitting products that are far superior to items commercially produced for the mass market. My post was to point out an opportunity for competent amateurs to produce results that far exceed those of the modern professionals. Such opportunities are rare. Aaron "Mirjam Bruck-Cohen" wrote in message ... I think Aaron that the real reason for this is that manmade Non knit sport clothes are esier to take care of , than handknits , and that is the main reason for less use of kbnitted sweaters . Also so manmde material Suits are Water proof, which is usefull when somebody skies. And last but not least the long time that many people knitted less ,, you have to remember that knitting is having a Come back....but for so many years many women didn`t knit ...It was Cheaper easier and much more REASONABLE to use the wonderful easy to take care of wonderful ready made Sports suits. With all respect to your words , you start your idea from the end result and work it back to explain it.On the way you sort of disregard the Trend , the changes in working forces [ more women working with having kids and having to copre with 100s other `little duties` - thus no time to knit`. It might do you good to read a bit about Herstory, and see how that affected the use of certain clothing items. Social trends are affected not only by 'Heating` , they are much more affected by the Economic Needs of the powers that Be , that needed the women in the Workforce , thus fashion and trends were mobilized, just like in the 15th century when women were shown the pictures of the "Knitting Maddona " with the Behind push to become 'housewives' , Now trends and fashions had the behind push "Buy more ready mades go work in office !!!!" ... mirjam mirjam Yarnstandards.com is the end of ski sweaters and fisherman's ganseys. I am not saying that the Standard Yarn Weight System is the cause of the end of ski sweaters and fisherman's sweaters, any more than a bridge is the cause of the end of a road, but when you get to the end of the road, there is the bridge. Nobody skis in sweaters any more, for one very good reason - Modern sweaters are too loosely knit. A real ski sweater needs to be tightly knit and close fitting. (Recently, I went downhill skiing, and was the only one on the slopes wearing a sweater. There were many people in the lodge, the restaurants, the shops, and the town wearing "ski sweaters," so I know "ski sweaters" were around, but I was the only person actually skiing in a sweater.) Modern designers assume that their creations will be worn in modern heated environments, and therefore should not be too warm. These days, skiers wear their sweaters in the car, and in the lodge, and not schussing down the slopes. Thus, modern ski sweaters are knit loosely and have a loose fit that keeps them from being too warm. Likewise, nobody wears fisherman's sweaters fishing any more! So, designs that were traditionally knit tightly to be very warm are now knit loosely, so they are not so warm. (Fine stitch patterns are now done large and look crude.) We have established a feedback cycle. Our knit goods are designed to be cooler, so that they can be worn in warmer environments. Then, when somebody wants real cold weather gear, they select a pile jacket rather than the available knit goods. If people are not wearing knit goods in really cold environments, then there is more tendency to design knit goods that are not so warm -- that is: loosely knit and loosely fitting. Today we design sweaters for folks that are going to the mall, rather than for folks that are going to fish, or to ski or sailing , or to follow the hunt. We have abandoned the sports wear market. We make imitation sports wear. The needle recommendations in the yarn standards are to knit fabrics that are loose, and not too warm. As long as we follow those recommendations, our knitting will be porous to the drafts, and flutter in the breeze. And worse, they will sag. And they will not be so durable, after all, the standards assume that you want a "cool" fashion statement. Save your man from frostbite. Knit him a ski sweater out of worsted weight wool on #3 needles. Keep your boy warm by knitting him a gansey out of DK weight on # 1 needles. (Then, send them off skiing and fishing. They need the exercise!) And then, make yourself a cup of tea with water heated on a fire fueled by a your print out of the Standard Yarn Weight System, because the price of energy is going up and we are going to need warmer sweaters. Aaron |
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