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#1
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Does anyone use and recommend the Ultimate Needlework System 4?
Hi! I am new to this list. I recently started doing crewel
embroidery and have discovered it to be a "crewel addiction" :-). I did a search and read some past posts on crewel embroidery - for now I have been learning the ropes with some "vintage" Erica Wilson and Elsa Williams kits which I got off of Ebay. Since I so love doing this, and find it to be very relaxing and peaceful, I want to invest in the right "tools". I have a bit of a windfall coming to me in the next month or so, and in anticipation I am plotting my splurges :-). I know the Lowery Workstation is quite popular amongst serious stitchers, but I ran across the "Ultimate Needlework System 4" while doing a search on the internet for needlework stands, and it seems to me to have a few advantages over the Lowery. Here is the link, for anyone who may be interested: http://www.stitchers-paradise.com/Stands/System_4.htm I did a search and someone else asked this question about 5 years ago, and no one responded. I am hoping there will be a response this time. :-) THANK YOU IN ADVANCE Sewing Susan Maplewood, MN |
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#2
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I love my system 4. It is extremely steady. The Lowery seems
quite tippy to me -- most people I know who use a Lowery need to put a weight on the base to keep it from moving. I've never had to do that with the System 4. I also like that it is quite collapsible -- folds up easily and even goes in my suitcase. On Thu, 6 May 2004, sewingsusan wrote: Hi! I am new to this list. I recently started doing crewel embroidery and have discovered it to be a "crewel addiction" :-). I did a search and read some past posts on crewel embroidery - for now I have been learning the ropes with some "vintage" Erica Wilson and Elsa Williams kits which I got off of Ebay. Since I so love doing this, and find it to be very relaxing and peaceful, I want to invest in the right "tools". I have a bit of a windfall coming to me in the next month or so, and in anticipation I am plotting my splurges :-). I know the Lowery Workstation is quite popular amongst serious stitchers, but I ran across the "Ultimate Needlework System 4" while doing a search on the internet for needlework stands, and it seems to me to have a few advantages over the Lowery. Here is the link, for anyone who may be interested: http://www.stitchers-paradise.com/Stands/System_4.htm I did a search and someone else asked this question about 5 years ago, and no one responded. I am hoping there will be a response this time. :-) THANK YOU IN ADVANCE Sewing Susan Maplewood, MN ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Katherine Becker "As god is my witness I thought turkeys could fly" NEVER SEND A FERRET TO DO A WEASEL's JOB --WKRP ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ |
#4
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Looks good - the only word of caution is the fact that it appears that it
has to stand in front of you against the Lowery sitting beside your chair and it`s ability to just swing away from you with the flick of s screw lever. The other thing is that the clamp only opens to 1 and a quarter inches - are you sure that this is enough? Pat P wrote in message ighton.edu... I love my system 4. It is extremely steady. The Lowery seems quite tippy to me -- most people I know who use a Lowery need to put a weight on the base to keep it from moving. I've never had to do that with the System 4. I also like that it is quite collapsible -- folds up easily and even goes in my suitcase. On Thu, 6 May 2004, sewingsusan wrote: Hi! I am new to this list. I recently started doing crewel embroidery and have discovered it to be a "crewel addiction" :-). I did a search and read some past posts on crewel embroidery - for now I have been learning the ropes with some "vintage" Erica Wilson and Elsa Williams kits which I got off of Ebay. Since I so love doing this, and find it to be very relaxing and peaceful, I want to invest in the right "tools". I have a bit of a windfall coming to me in the next month or so, and in anticipation I am plotting my splurges :-). I know the Lowery Workstation is quite popular amongst serious stitchers, but I ran across the "Ultimate Needlework System 4" while doing a search on the internet for needlework stands, and it seems to me to have a few advantages over the Lowery. Here is the link, for anyone who may be interested: http://www.stitchers-paradise.com/Stands/System_4.htm I did a search and someone else asked this question about 5 years ago, and no one responded. I am hoping there will be a response this time. :-) THANK YOU IN ADVANCE Sewing Susan Maplewood, MN ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Katherine Becker "As god is my witness I thought turkeys could fly" NEVER SEND A FERRET TO DO A WEASEL's JOB --WKRP ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ |
#5
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I love my system 4. It is extremely steady. The Lowery seems
quite tippy to me -- most people I know who use a Lowery need to put a weight on the base to keep it from moving. I've never had to do that with the System 4. I also like that it is quite collapsible -- folds up easily and even goes in my suitcase. THANK YOU KATHERINE!!! This purchase is big bucks in my book, so I really want to do my research. Of course it should be a lifetime investment. You mention two of the reason why, according to what I read at the "stitcher's paradise" website, I am considering the system 4. I would definitely spring for the collapsible . I also thought that the feature whereby the joints are somehow mechanically inclined so that the project stays in place however you place it, without having to constantly tighten wingnuts was really "special" - so to speak. Have you had the opportunity to compared this feature to the Lowery??? Right now I only use a hoop frame, a 1" thick x 10" Hardwick (german made) hoop on a seat stand which I got on ebay (and really love because it holds the fabric really tight) but I am constantly tightening the wingnuts as I flip the hoop up and down and that gets a little annoying - throws me out of rhythem! I want to get a square frame, especially for some projects I have planned using satin jean fabric (which wouldn't work in a hoop frame, from what I have read.) I have gotten accustommed to two-handed stitching, so I need a stand for such a frame. I would use the System with a square frame - either a scroll-style frame with the sides laced up, or I may spring for an English-style traditional slate frame (as seen in the "Royal School of Needlework" and at the "Accomplishments-Shop.com" website). I am currently doing crewel embroidery and need the fabric to be really tight all the way around. I want to do the "fish sampler" in the "Royal School of Needlework Embroidery Techiques" book. My cousin is an advid fisherman and he has helped me through some tough times, been like a brother to me, I really want to do that picture for him and I think I need a square frame because the satin jean fabric it calls can get marks on it from a hoop frame (according to what I have read.) So that is the first project I will want to do when I can get the right tools for the job! Another question - You said that your system 4 doesn't tip - what style and how heavy of a frame are you using with it??? Also - are you using the light and magnifier attachment? THANK SO MUCH for responding to my request for an opinion on this product, I don't have the opportunity to try it out before purchasing it. Forgive me for asking you to indulge me with a few more answers to my questions! Sewing Susan :-) |
#6
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sewingsusan wrote:
I want to get a square frame, especially for some projects I have planned using satin jean fabric (which wouldn't work in a hoop frame, from what I have read.) That is utter biased nonsense by whomever wrote it. I've done several Mountmellick pieces - all in a 4-inch or 6-inch hand-held hoop. All on cotton satin jean. Hoops do absolutely no harm to either the fabric or the stitches. Not the satin jean from Ireland nor the satin jean sold in America and made who knows where. I made several tray mats out of the stuff, as well as drapes for my den. The mats with drawn thread work . . . in case somebody decides to say you can't do drawn thread on satin jean. This fabric would work simply fine in your seat frame. That doesn't mean you shouldn't purchase another type frame if that is something you want to do. But your fabric in a hoop, whether tambour, seat, or hand, once suitably bound and screwed tight, will hold fabric as tight as you need it until you loosen it up. And it won't cause hoop marks on satin jean, linen, cotton, blends. It will mark velvet, but that can normally be steamed back in shape. I've used hoops for velvet several times. Not scolding *you* . . . just being emphatic about this myth that just doesn't want to die a natural death. :-) Dianne |
#7
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In article ,
(sewingsusan) wrote: ....nipped... but I ran across the "Ultimate Needlework System 4" while doing a search on the internet for needlework stands, and it seems to me to have a few advantages over the Lowery. Here is the link, for anyone who may be interested: I looked at this one seriously before I bought my K's Creation stand. That one has a ball joint head that allows for any position at all for your frame and it swings out of the way when you want to get up from your chair. I have to stitch with my legs and feet up so a stand that works from the side was best for me. It is a bit tippy I have to admit, but I solved that by putting my chair foot on the stand. No problems now and I simply love this stand! lara -- http://groups.yahoo.com/group/needlepoint_etc/ http://www.digitalstoryteller.com/BT...ey/index.shtml Photographer - editor - writer |
#8
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Dianne wrote:
That is utter biased nonsense by whomever wrote it. I've done several Mountmellick pieces - all in a 4-inch or 6-inch hand-held hoop. All on cotton satin jean. Hoops do absolutely no harm to either the fabric or the stitches. Not the satin jean from Ireland nor the satin jean sold in America and made who knows where. I made several tray mats out of the stuff, as well as drapes for my den. The mats with drawn thread work . . . in case somebody decides to say you can't do drawn thread on satin jean. This fabric would work simply fine in your seat frame. That doesn't mean you shouldn't purchase another type frame if that is something you want to do. But your fabric in a hoop, whether tambour, seat, or hand, once suitably bound and screwed tight, will hold fabric as tight as you need it until you loosen it up. And it won't cause hoop marks on satin jean, linen, cotton, blends. It will mark velvet, but that can normally be steamed back in shape. I've used hoops for velvet several times. Not scolding *you* . . . just being emphatic about this myth that just doesn't want to die a natural . :-) Dianne Well Dianne - since I am rather new to all of this and have self-taught myself with the aid of a 1/2 dozen or so books - I went back to my sources to see who "wrote" that hoops are bad for satin fabrics. I looked through every book until I found it in Erica Wilson's "Crewel Embroidery" from 1962. That was probably my source... plus the RSN recommends the square frame for the "Fish Samler" in RSN's Embroidery Techniques... I hope to get that project done by next Christmas. Still need to buy supplies for it AND, especially, work on my skills a bit more. I am still in that steep learning curve... thanks for all the help! Susan |
#9
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sewingsusan wrote:
Well Dianne - since I am rather new to all of this and have self-taught myself with the aid of a 1/2 dozen or so books - I went back to my sources to see who "wrote" that hoops are bad for satin fabrics. I looked through every book until I found it in Erica Wilson's "Crewel Embroidery" from 1962. Yes, and Erica Wilson (If not the primary source, no less the secondary one) was the one that changed the way Fr. knots are made. She made a huge contribution to the needlework world and I bless her for the proliferation of good design and steering a yawning public back to the artform. The Martha Stewart of her day. :-) (That statement will surely rile a good bunch of RCTNers.) One of these days I will get myself a floor frame. Large embroideries (like robes) are best done on them. You can sit on the floor with them. Embroidery is like any other artform: the more you learn, the more you realize what you don't know. There's a lot of myth or generalized admonitions that don't hold up under scrutiny. Heavens, even in the painterly world arguments reign supreme over technique. It's just that, since especially the 1960's when canvas and counted work began to get a strong foothold, frames became the mantra. Because of your inquiry, I've been digging out some books on what needle to use for crewel embroidery. Interestingly, there's those who think chenille needles work best, those that think you should use crewel needles. One noted authority cautioned that chenille needles break and bend easily, so crewels are best. That is the height of the ridiculous. Crewel needles are much finer than chenilles - which are like tapestry except they have a point. I've bent many a crewel needle, but never a tapestry or chenille. That would take a good deal of heat and strength. In the end, you have to use what works for you and not take seriously anyone's single-minded thoughts about "musts". As many here have figured out through time: The only rule is: the thread goes in the eye of the needle. Actually, there are more rules than that - particularly if you pick up some esoteric techniques such as Japanese embroidery. But in the main, that's a good rule of thumb. Dianne That was probably my source... plus the RSN recommends the square frame for the "Fish Samler" in RSN's Embroidery Techniques... I hope to get that project done by next Christmas. Still need to buy supplies for it AND, especially, work on my skills a bit more. I am still in that steep learning curve... thanks for all the help! Susan |
#10
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sewingsusan wrote:
self-taught myself with the aid of a 1/2 dozen or so books - I went back to my sources to see who "wrote" that hoops are bad for satin fabrics. I looked through every book until I found it in Erica Wilson's "Crewel Embroidery" from 1962. That was probably my source... I've never seen pictures of Erica Wilson using a "dressed" hoop. I believe "dressing" will make a world of difference on more fragile fabrics. Anyway, there are things we can get away with on cross-stitch that wont'd work with lush wools or metal-thread embroideries. I wasn't aware of full-dressing until this year. Half-dressing is wrapping the inside of a plain (not lip'd) hoop with cotton floss or yarn, as a cushion and to avoid direction contact with metal or potential for wood splinters. The hoop's fully dressed if a separate piece of fabric with a window smaller than the hoop's opening is used between the working fabric and the larger hoop. The extra piece not only cushions the fabric but also protects the stressed edge from direct abrasion and incidental soiling. Diane Hare |
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