Red glaze

Hi D Kat,
No problem the green is;
Potash Feldspar 60
Dolomite 20
Quartz 15
China clay 5
Total 100%
Plus;
Rutile 6
Copper Carbonate 1
Bentonite 1

This has to be applied thicker than the red otherwise the green becomes a
bit "wishy-washy" ( love the technical terms) and translucent. But fired to
cone 9 (1265'C) and soak for 15 mins. the ramp rate for firing is 200'C/Hr
to 900'C then 100'C/Hr to 1265'C

Hope this helps
Regards

Kevin.


"D Kat" wrote in message
...
I hestitate to ask but since you shared the red can you share the green?
Thanks in any case
"Kevin Baldwin" wrote in message
. uk...
I know I'm not supposed to send pictures on this newsgroup but here
goes.
This was the original test firing I did and the result. The blue and
green
tests have different recipes. A point to note when the GREEN is applied
over
the RED you get a mottled BLUE probably because of the rutile in the
green
glaze.

Regards

Kevin.



"dkat" wrote in message
t...
What iron did you use? For oxidation firings it has been our
experience
that you need to use Special (Spanish) red iron oxide... Otherwise as
you
say you get a brown (maybe a red on the inside of the pot). DKat

"CNB" wrote in message
...
I tried that glaze but I didn't have A.K. Ball Clay or H.V. Ball
Clay
so
I
used 13% OM4 and I tried it on a buff clay. I did not get the red
color
that
I wanted. It was brown. Do you think it was due to substituting the
ball
clay or because of the clay body I used? The picture in the book
showed
a
deep red with black mottling which was beautiful. I didn't get that.
Also
can you tell me what cone that you fire it too? I tried fireing it
to
several different cone temperatures. All came out brown.
Thanks,
CNB

"Kevin Baldwin" wrote in message
k...
| The following is a very good glaze when fired to 1265'C on white
stoneware
| in an electric kiln. I use it all the time, its very stable does
not
run
| when soaked for 18 minutes.
|
| Potash Feldspar 44
| Quartz 14
| Bone Ash 14
| Talc 10
| A.K. Ball Clay 8
| H.V Ball Clay 5
| Lithium Carbonate 3
| Bentonite 2
| ______________ 100%
| Plus;
| Red Iron Oxide 11
|
|
|

I used synthetic bone ash because that's what my supplier gave me when I
asked for bone ash. Should I should have used real bone ash? I did try
re-firing in bisque but that didn't work. I tried slow firing up and I tried
slow firing down. I will check my iron oxide today with my supplier today. I
have RIO and I don't think that is the same but they do have Spanish Red.
Thanks,
Crystal

"ShantiP1" wrote in message
...
| There are a couple of things that may have made the difference. Did you
use
| real bone ash or synthetic? Also, these oxidation saturated iron glazes
have to
| be applied thickly!
| Usually, refiring the piece in a bisque firing will bring out the red.
This
| also works with high fired shinos.
| And, lastly, use the more expensive iron oxide -- Spanish or even better
the
| 95% Red Iron Oxide which is more expensive, but would give you a better
chance
| of getting what you want. You can find it on line if your local dealer
doesn't
| carry it.
|
| Regards,
| June
| http://www.angelfire.com/art2/shambhalapottery/

Thanks for the other recipe and especially your ramp schedule. I'm assuming
that this is the same ramp schedule you use for the red glaze. I've but the
ramp schedule and the pic in my glaze program. Today I'm calling my supplier
and ask questions about the ingredients I used in my glaze.
Crystal

"Kevin Baldwin" wrote in message
. uk...
| Hi D Kat,
| No problem the green is;
| Potash Feldspar 60
| Dolomite 20
| Quartz 15
| China clay 5
| Total 100%
| Plus;
| Rutile 6
| Copper Carbonate 1
| Bentonite 1
|
| This has to be applied thicker than the red otherwise the green becomes a
| bit "wishy-washy" ( love the technical terms) and translucent. But fired
to
| cone 9 (1265'C) and soak for 15 mins. the ramp rate for firing is 200'C/Hr
| to 900'C then 100'C/Hr to 1265'C
|
| Hope this helps
| Regards
|
| Kevin.

If I get half the red of Kevin's I'll be happy. Maybe if you follow his
firing schedule you would get more red? If you have a picture of the result
you get at cone 6 I would love to see it. You could send it directly to me.
I have a couple internet potter friends who exchange pictures with me
directly.
Crystal

"dkat" wrote in message
t...
| We fire to cone six. The only two iron oxides that I have known of for
| getting red in an oxidation firing are "Spanish" and "Special". I don't
| know about "Rio". We rarely get anything as nice as what was posted
though
| (I do wish this country would move into the 21st century so we could post
| pictures freely - that was a real treat to see those samples - I shouldn't
| rant about how most of S Korea is on fast internet connections of one form
| or another and the U.S. only has a small part of it connections not still
on
| modems...)

Thank you! As my Dad used to say, you are a gentleman and a scholar. DK

"Kevin Baldwin" wrote in message
. uk...
Hi D Kat,
No problem the green is;
Potash Feldspar 60
Dolomite 20
Quartz 15
China clay 5
Total 100%
Plus;
Rutile 6
Copper Carbonate 1
Bentonite 1

This has to be applied thicker than the red otherwise the green becomes a
bit "wishy-washy" ( love the technical terms) and translucent. But fired
to
cone 9 (1265'C) and soak for 15 mins. the ramp rate for firing is 200'C/Hr
to 900'C then 100'C/Hr to 1265'C

Hope this helps
Regards

Kevin.


"D Kat" wrote in message
...
I hestitate to ask but since you shared the red can you share the green?
Thanks in any case
"Kevin Baldwin" wrote in message
. uk...
I know I'm not supposed to send pictures on this newsgroup but here
goes.
This was the original test firing I did and the result. The blue and
green
tests have different recipes. A point to note when the GREEN is
applied
over
the RED you get a mottled BLUE probably because of the rutile in the
green
glaze.

Regards

Kevin.



"dkat" wrote in message
t...
What iron did you use? For oxidation firings it has been our
experience
that you need to use Special (Spanish) red iron oxide... Otherwise
as
you
say you get a brown (maybe a red on the inside of the pot). DKat

"CNB" wrote in message
...
I tried that glaze but I didn't have A.K. Ball Clay or H.V. Ball
Clay
so
I
used 13% OM4 and I tried it on a buff clay. I did not get the red
color
that
I wanted. It was brown. Do you think it was due to substituting
the
ball
clay or because of the clay body I used? The picture in the book
showed
a
deep red with black mottling which was beautiful. I didn't get
that.
Also
can you tell me what cone that you fire it too? I tried fireing it
to
several different cone temperatures. All came out brown.
Thanks,
CNB

"Kevin Baldwin" wrote in message
k...
| The following is a very good glaze when fired to 1265'C on white
stoneware
| in an electric kiln. I use it all the time, its very stable does
not
run
| when soaked for 18 minutes.
|
| Potash Feldspar 44
| Quartz 14
| Bone Ash 14
| Talc 10
| A.K. Ball Clay 8
| H.V Ball Clay 5
| Lithium Carbonate 3
| Bentonite 2
| ______________ 100%
| Plus;
| Red Iron Oxide 11
|
|
|

I will try getting some pictures that are usable by this weekend and send
them. As I said, at best our red is an earthy red to brown and the glaze
uses Gertsley Borate (you can easily find it under Randy's Red or the like
in the Clayart archives I believe).

http://digitalfire.com/gerstleyborate/index.html
http://www.potters.org/categories.htm


"CNB" wrote in message
...
If I get half the red of Kevin's I'll be happy. Maybe if you follow his
firing schedule you would get more red? If you have a picture of the
result
you get at cone 6 I would love to see it. You could send it directly to
me.
I have a couple internet potter friends who exchange pictures with me
directly.
Crystal

"dkat" wrote in message
t...
| We fire to cone six. The only two iron oxides that I have known of for
| getting red in an oxidation firing are "Spanish" and "Special". I don't
| know about "Rio". We rarely get anything as nice as what was posted
though
| (I do wish this country would move into the 21st century so we could
post
| pictures freely - that was a real treat to see those samples - I
shouldn't
| rant about how most of S Korea is on fast internet connections of one
form
| or another and the U.S. only has a small part of it connections not
still
on
| modems...)

Oh, I'm sorry. I was misunderstanding your post. I thought you were using
the SAME glaze recipe as Kevin's. I had tested the exact same recipe as
Kevin is using and couldn't get the results he got. I have the recipe for
Randy's red although I have not tried it. I saved a picture that I found to
my computer and linked it with my glaze calculater. (Not that I know how to
use the calculation part but I use it to save all my recipies.) I'm glad my
memory is jogged of that recipe. It is also in cone 6 which is more my
firing range.
Thanks,
Crystal

"dkat" wrote in message
t...
| I will try getting some pictures that are usable by this weekend and send
| them. As I said, at best our red is an earthy red to brown and the glaze
| uses Gertsley Borate (you can easily find it under Randy's Red or the like
| in the Clayart archives I believe).
|
| http://digitalfire.com/gerstleyborate/index.html
| http://www.potters.org/categories.htm
|
|

I called my supplier after reading all of your posts and messages to me.
They agreed it is most likely the Red Iron Oxide that I used that is causing
the problem with the color. I was using Rio but I now have Spanish Red iron
oxide on order. I will retest the recipe Kevin is using and also try Randy's
Red (DKat thanks for reminding me about Randy's Red.)
And everyone... it's nice to get all the extra information that is passed
on. For example thickness applications, firing schedules, etc. Every bit
helps,
Much appreciation,
Crystal