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  #11  
Old July 16th 04, 08:35 PM
dkat
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That could be a nasty surprise (mixing up 5 gallons of glaze to then have to
throw it out or live with yucky results - how do you throw out 5 gallons of
glaze?)! Thank you. I suppose I will have to do some more thorough
analysis. Luckily I have read "Mastering Cone 6 Glazes" and already have
enough science background to know that CuO2 does not really equal CuO (same
weight will give different amounts of Copper molecules). I will be basing
my glazes on MC6G but their recipes are such, that what Silica, Neph, etc.
to use is not given and I did not have a clue what the source of Silica
would be (since most people are dependent on what their supplier has that
makes sense and it also makes clearer why the glazes have to be adjusted for
local use). When I used to make up glazes the supplies were there for me
and I never had to think about what they were or what to order..... Thanks
to all the postings I have now learned why milling matters and what the
trade offs are, that raw material sold under the same main name but from
different makers may have different chemical compositions, and that Flint
and Quartz are the material to buy for silica.... (though that one still
confuses me some), etc. I really do appreciate all the response.


"Steve Mills" wrote in message
news
To add a little to June's excellent advice. When you have settled on the
core selection of glazes that you like be as consistent as you can over
the materials you use, don't go for different stuff because it is
cheaper or your glazes could change for the worse.

Steve
Bath
UK


In article , ShantiP1
writes
I tend you use ceramic grade rutile which is darker than light rutile and

use
that unless light is specified.
As far as the whiting goes, aske your supplier what the difference is. I

know
with some wollastonites for instance, there is a bit of iron, so you

might want
to find whichever whiting or wollastonite is purer.
Although Custer and G200 can usually be used interchangeable, Custer has

a bit
more silica which can help prevent crazing if your recipe is on the

border as
far of expansion is concerned.
If you know how to reformulate a recipe, with or without software, it's

easy
enough to reformulate it for a different spar; but in most cases, either

one
would have a good chance of working.
The frits aren't interchangeable really, because although thy all have

boron,
the other ingredients vary. 3195 has more alumina in it for instance and

I use
that if I want a high alumina recipe and don't want too much clay in the
recipe. You get a bit more boron for the money in 3195 which is why I

often use
it, but I make sure it fits in on a molecular level with my recipe.

If you're working at cone 6 I would not advise getting your list of

materials
too small.

You can do without wollastonite and reformulate the recipe for silica and
whiting which is what wollastonite is composed of; but you'll have to

back
engineer the recipe.

For cone 6, minimum materials list, I would advise

Frit 3134
Neph sy
F4 soda spar
Custer
epk
OM4 ball clay
whiting
talc
dolomite
silica - 200 mesh
spodumene
zinc oxide
bentonite
Zircopax or Superpax
Tin Oxide
and your basic coloring oxides

With these ingredients you can formulate alkaline glazes, calcium or

alumina
matts, etc. These are also the ingredients you would most commonly find

in cone
6 recipes.

If you want to extend the list, you can also get some of these to play

around
with:
wollastnite

barium carbonate
strontium carbonate
Lithium carbonate
Gillespie Borate or Boraq (Gerstley substitutes)
Volcanic ash
Frit 3124
Frit 3195

Regards,
June
http://www.angelfire.com/art2/shambhalapottery/




--
Steve Mills
Bath
UK



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  #12  
Old July 16th 04, 11:08 PM
ShantiP1
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

You might take a look at my website. I have a lot of cone 6 oxidation tests
pictures with recipes listed. There is a very good calcium matt recipe there
that I formulated based on a calcium eutectic in the Parmalee book. I show a
few different colors -- pale green like a blue green celadon and a few rutile
bearings ones ranging from peach to deep orange.
There are also some transparent glossy glazes as well, with a few color
variations.
Know that if you use the glaze recipes from the Mastering Glazes book, that you
might want to use 200 mesh silica, since finer silica can cause those glazes to
move more if you fire to a large cone 6, which is what I think those glazes
were formulated for.
I've tested a couple of them and the chrome tin red for instance, looks best
with a cone 7 bar cone which is equivalent to a large cone 6.
I believe that Ron Roy has, in the past, recommended 200 mesh
silica/quartz/flint as a safety factor.
For a bright blue 1% cobalt carbonate in a calcium, boron etc. glaze would do
it. For more interest, in addtion to the cobalt, you can add 3-6& rutile which
will give a bit more variegation and more interest. You can also add 1-2% iron
along with the other colorants. All of those should give a pretty bright blue,
particularly on a white body. Darker bodies will tone down the brightness, but
you can always use a slip over a dark body if you want to to go that route, but
still want the bright blue.
Here's my website, if you want to peruse the recipes and pictures.

http://www.angelfire.com/art2/shambhalapottery/

Warm regards,
June
http://www.angelfire.com/art2/shambhalapottery/
  #13  
Old July 17th 04, 12:08 AM
dkat
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

I have perused your site many a time. My eyes are not good enough to
actually be able to see the glazes on the size picture you show and my brain
is not nimble enough to connect what tile goes with what description. I do
keep trying though..... It is like being in a candy shop and being 5 years
old....

Thank you for the information. That is quite helpful to know (and exactly
what I was lacking without exactly knowing it).

There are two glazes on digitalfire with Alberta Slip that I really, really
like... (but I don't want to use Lithium and I can't find Alberta Slip... ).
I could imagine working with only those 2 glazes along with a marble white
very easily. These may be the two that I try to crate with chemical
analysis.... (I can fantasies right...)

Alberta Slip II Lithium Brown Cone 6
Alberta Slip Rutile Blue for Cone 6

"ShantiP1" wrote in message
...
You might take a look at my website. I have a lot of cone 6 oxidation

tests
pictures with recipes listed. There is a very good calcium matt recipe

there
that I formulated based on a calcium eutectic in the Parmalee book. I

show a
few different colors -- pale green like a blue green celadon and a few

rutile
bearings ones ranging from peach to deep orange.
There are also some transparent glossy glazes as well, with a few color
variations.
Know that if you use the glaze recipes from the Mastering Glazes book,

that you
might want to use 200 mesh silica, since finer silica can cause those

glazes to
move more if you fire to a large cone 6, which is what I think those

glazes
were formulated for.
I've tested a couple of them and the chrome tin red for instance, looks

best
with a cone 7 bar cone which is equivalent to a large cone 6.
I believe that Ron Roy has, in the past, recommended 200 mesh
silica/quartz/flint as a safety factor.
For a bright blue 1% cobalt carbonate in a calcium, boron etc. glaze would

do
it. For more interest, in addtion to the cobalt, you can add 3-6& rutile

which
will give a bit more variegation and more interest. You can also add 1-2%

iron
along with the other colorants. All of those should give a pretty bright

blue,
particularly on a white body. Darker bodies will tone down the brightness,

but
you can always use a slip over a dark body if you want to to go that

route, but
still want the bright blue.
Here's my website, if you want to peruse the recipes and pictures.

http://www.angelfire.com/art2/shambhalapottery/

Warm regards,
June
http://www.angelfire.com/art2/shambhalapottery/



  #14  
Old July 17th 04, 12:57 AM
ShantiP1
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

I made the pictures small because they only allow me so much space on the whole
web site.
You can copy and paste the pictures into a program like Paint Shop Pro and then
increase their size. You can download a trial period of Paint Shop Pro off the
internet if you don't have it or a similar program.
Most of the recipes for the tiles are listed and it shouldn't be difficult to
find them. Since some of the glazes have the same base, just different
colorants, it just seemed a waste of memory to list the base recipe every time.


Warm regards,
June
http://www.angelfire.com/art2/shambhalapottery/

  #16  
Old July 17th 04, 03:19 PM
ShantiP1
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Posts: n/a
Default

I have tested this and it works just fine to get a closer, enlarged look. It
only distorts if you expand it too much.

Regards,
June
http://www.angelfire.com/art2/shambhalapottery/
  #17  
Old July 17th 04, 07:46 PM
dkat
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Didn't work for me (I really can't see anything other than the basic color
of the glaze - depth, opacity, variance, etc only show vaguely in a very
few)....

I really do appreciate all of the work you have done and that you are
sharing. From it I can almost figure out what oxides do what with what
ingredients. The problem is I cannot really tell what glaze you are
referring to at given times. I'm sure that others are able to connect the
dots just fine. I am not a verbal person. For me you would have to have it
organized more visually and less verbally (you just lose me when you are
talking about color 'J' and Glaze June Perry's #XXXX - which I'm sure is
meaningful to you but means nothing to me and then I have to go find what
color J is by which time I have forgotten what the tile looked like and what
glaze it went to...)

If it were more structured and succinct I could follow - for example

Tile 1
ROW 1 June Perry's #6711 Base GLAZE

34.00 Nepheline Syenite
14.95 Wollastonite
16.43 Grolleg Kaolin
6.20 Barium Carbonate
14.95 Silica
10.47 Talc
3.00 Lithium Carbonate


COL 1 Copper oxide 2%,Cobalt oxide 0.5%,Tin oxide 2%
COL 2 Copper Carbonate 2%, Tin Oxide 3%
COL 3 Rutile 2.5%, Manganese Dioxide 1%, Titanium dioxide 1%
COL 4 3% Copper Carbonate, 2% Tin oxide

ROW 2 June Perry's #6610V3 Base GLAZE

33.00 F4 Soda Spar
5.50 Custer Potash feldspar
10.50 Spodumene
18.00 EPK
8.70 Dolomite
13.00 Ferro Frit 3134
4.00 Zinc Oxide
4.00 Talc
7.00 Silica (use amorphous if possible to help avoid crazing).
Total 107


COL 1 Cobalt oxide 0.5%,Tin oxide 2%
COL 2 Copper Carbonate 2%, Tin Oxide 3%
COL 3 Rutile 2.5%, Titanium dioxide 1%
COL 4 3% Copper Carbonate


ShantiP1" wrote in message
...
I have tested this and it works just fine to get a closer, enlarged look.

It
only distorts if you expand it too much.

Regards,
June
http://www.angelfire.com/art2/shambhalapottery/



  #18  
Old July 18th 04, 07:49 PM
ShantiP1
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Directions are clearly given as to what tile is what recipe.
If you have a colored printer, you can just right button click to select all
and then print the pages out. Then you could easily match the glazes with the
recipes.
Most of the glazes are clearly described, ie. matt, glossy transparent, etc.
and appropriate number given as well as the lettered version with oxide
additions for that particular version. It only takes scanning down the page to
find it. Each page only has a few rows and there are only a few tiles in each
row.
As I mentioned before, these sites only allow you so much band width which is
why I give the base recipe and then later only give the number and the oxides
for the version I'm referring to.. Also, it would have been a monumental task
to scan each tile. There would be no time to make pots! LOL
I've had many people tests some of these glazes and some have written back to
me that they are now including some in their palette. They just dug in and
started testing.
You will find the same problem to some extent in the Mastering cone 6 glazes
book, where they show a pot without listing the recipe and then you have to
turn back a page or two to find the recipe and add note the colorants from the
page where the picture is listed. This is not uncommon to do either in a book
or on web pages where they limit your space.

Regards,
June
http://www.angelfire.com/art2/shambhalapottery/
  #19  
Old July 18th 04, 08:29 PM
dkat
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

I will try to clarify since you seem to not understand what I'm saying. I'm
actually offering a means of decreasing your bandwidth. I have had no
problem understanding MC6G or associating the glaze pictures with the
recipe. As I said, I am not verbally oriented but function spatially. I
did not suggest that you change your picture (a 4X4 matrix). I simply
suggested that things be grouped in a systematic way and initially in a less
verbose manner. You are offering a free service and as you have stated
there are those that have successfully used your page as is. You should be
commended. I am not offering criticism but simply feedback on how the page
would be legible for someone such as myself. It is certainly yours to use
or not use as you wish. Enough wasted bandwidth on this topic I think.
Sorry if I took it too far.


"ShantiP1" wrote in message
...
Directions are clearly given as to what tile is what recipe.
If you have a colored printer, you can just right button click to select

all
and then print the pages out. Then you could easily match the glazes with

the
recipes.
Most of the glazes are clearly described, ie. matt, glossy transparent,

etc.
and appropriate number given as well as the lettered version with oxide
additions for that particular version. It only takes scanning down the

page to
find it. Each page only has a few rows and there are only a few tiles in

each
row.
As I mentioned before, these sites only allow you so much band width which

is
why I give the base recipe and then later only give the number and the

oxides
for the version I'm referring to.. Also, it would have been a monumental

task
to scan each tile. There would be no time to make pots! LOL
I've had many people tests some of these glazes and some have written back

to
me that they are now including some in their palette. They just dug in and
started testing.
You will find the same problem to some extent in the Mastering cone 6

glazes
book, where they show a pot without listing the recipe and then you have

to
turn back a page or two to find the recipe and add note the colorants from

the
page where the picture is listed. This is not uncommon to do either in a

book
or on web pages where they limit your space.

Regards,
June
http://www.angelfire.com/art2/shambhalapottery/



  #20  
Old July 19th 04, 04:03 AM
k k
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default


You did

In article ,
"dkat" wrote:

I will try to clarify since you seem to not understand what I'm saying. I'm
actually offering a means of decreasing your bandwidth. I have had no
problem understanding MC6G or associating the glaze pictures with the
recipe. As I said, I am not verbally oriented but function spatially. I
did not suggest that you change your picture (a 4X4 matrix). I simply
suggested that things be grouped in a systematic way and initially in a less
verbose manner. You are offering a free service and as you have stated
there are those that have successfully used your page as is. You should be
commended. I am not offering criticism but simply feedback on how the page
would be legible for someone such as myself. It is certainly yours to use
or not use as you wish. Enough wasted bandwidth on this topic I think.
Sorry if I took it too far.


"ShantiP1" wrote in message
...
Directions are clearly given as to what tile is what recipe.
If you have a colored printer, you can just right button click to select

all
and then print the pages out. Then you could easily match the glazes with

the
recipes.
Most of the glazes are clearly described, ie. matt, glossy transparent,

etc.
and appropriate number given as well as the lettered version with oxide
additions for that particular version. It only takes scanning down the

page to
find it. Each page only has a few rows and there are only a few tiles in

each
row.
As I mentioned before, these sites only allow you so much band width which

is
why I give the base recipe and then later only give the number and the

oxides
for the version I'm referring to.. Also, it would have been a monumental

task
to scan each tile. There would be no time to make pots! LOL
I've had many people tests some of these glazes and some have written back

to
me that they are now including some in their palette. They just dug in and
started testing.
You will find the same problem to some extent in the Mastering cone 6

glazes
book, where they show a pot without listing the recipe and then you have

to
turn back a page or two to find the recipe and add note the colorants from

the
page where the picture is listed. This is not uncommon to do either in a

book
or on web pages where they limit your space.

Regards,
June
http://www.angelfire.com/art2/shambhalapottery/



 




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