Full bust adjustment? (x-posted)

"Miss-G-" wrote
Hi everyone,

I'm in need of your superb advice yet again! I'm a C cup (34 inches) and
have come to the point where I'm no longer terrified of altering patterns
and would like to fix up some that gape at the neckline, and sag under the
bust. I'm told I need to do a full bust adjustment, and I found the
instructions here (http://tinyurl.com/s5v4), but I'm a little unsure of a
couple of things. First of all, how do I know how much to adjust by? And
what if the top I am altering has no darts at the sides, i.e. a knit top?
I've just made Butterick 3385 and while it's a lovely top, the neckline
gapes and it's empire line with no darts at the sides, so I'm confused as
to
what to do there as well.
Thanks so much again,

Katy M

Do the alteration the same as in the diagram there, but instead of slashing
from the bust point to the bust dart, slash from bust point to the stitching
line of the armhole and swing the armhole around to accomodate the extra
length. Generally a toile is used to determine the amount of spread needed
across the bust but 1.5 - 2cm is generally adequate. You can leave the slash
spread at the waist if you need the extra ease around that area or you can
join it back together there. Don't forget to match the back of the pattern
to the new front length.

If you have a large bust and a small waist you might find it worthwhile to
look into curved darts, I find they are much more flattering than straight
ones.

To get rid of the neckline gape, determine how much extra length there is on
the neckline, and pinch this amount out of the line for the neck, smoothing
the paper back towards the armhole or whatever edge is closest. If you don't
get this explanation it's called a "gape dart" for reference.

HTH

-emma