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#11
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"KSL" wrote in message u... Bubbles It's many years since I did any throwing and I have never seen this 'screw' method for steadying bats - I used a ring of clay with no other mechanical retention. I have done a bit of Google searching and this is what I understand from the descriptions; There are holes drilled through the wheel, into which are screwed cap-screws (round-headed bolts with a hex). The bats have holes drilled through them that correspond with the heads of cap-screws. When the bat is placed on the wheel the screws stabilise the bat. If this is all correct and the holes in your bats are now oversize, then the solution seems obvious. Drill new, correct size, holes in the bats. No much to complicated, like Celeste recommended just pad it out with some fairly stiff clay. Works a treat for me. I use bats all the time, I hate working directly on the wheel head. |
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#12
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I second using a Batgrabber, we've tried them out and think they're
excellent. I've used them on the wheelhead without pins, and provided you back off on the muscle power a bit they work really well. Steve Bath UK In article 42db738a.528.41@news2, gmccord writes Two things to try 1. Use a clay bat ring instead of the pins Take about 1/2 pound of wedged clay & center it on the wheelhead. Open it to the wheeelhead and slowly make a ring about 1/2 inch wide that is slightly smaller than the diameter of yur bat. Pinch the clay between you fingers and thumb holding your thumb steady and let the clay go up. Then, press down on the clay, holding the inside of the ring steady to let the clay move out from the senter of the wheel. Just repeat this a few times until you get the ring the size you want. It should be about 3/8 inch high when you're done. Place a dry bat on the ring, tap it in the center a few times & you're goo d to go. 2. Batgrabber You can buy a batgrabber at www.batgrabber.com that is placed under your bat. It's a rubber-ish material that will hold the bat from moving . It also seems to do a great job of helping with warped bats as well. Good Luck! Hi folks! I am finally back at my wheel after many months not being able to use it for one reason or another. I realize that it will take me a while to get "the feeling" back, but in the mean time, I have a rotten dilemma. If I throw on my wooden bats (I have 2), the holes are slightly bigger than the screws, so the whole bat goes kachung-kachung as I am trying to center - so I can't center. I put some toothpicks into the spaces, but it still seems as if the bat is not "solid". If I throw directly on the wheel, I center pretty good and can make "something" - but!!!! When it comes time to take my work off the wheel, I use my "topfheber" (http://www.michel.ch/michel/images_k...toepferscheibe /topfheber.jpg), I end up making the nice round pot crooked somehow :-( Any tips/suggestions would be gratefully read and tried! Marianne -- Steve Mills Bath UK |
#13
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"Steve Mills" wrote in message ... I second using a Batgrabber, we've tried them out and think they're excellent. I've used them on the wheelhead without pins, and provided you back off on the muscle power a bit they work really well. I bet you bought your's from Bath Pottery Supplies! :-) I have just sent them an e-mail asking how much they would charge to send a pair to me here in Zurich. Would be fun to try! Marianne |
#14
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Steve Mills wrote: I second using a Batgrabber, we've tried them out and think they're excellent. I've used them on the wheelhead without pins, and provided you back off on the muscle power a bit they work really well. Steve Bath UK But why are they nearly double the price here in the UK ?? |
#15
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Bubbles
You *won't* go through lots of bats. You may drill many holes, but a bat can have quite a few holes in it before you need to discard it. The only reason for buying the new bat is to act as a template for you to drill (or have someone else drill) new holes in your old bats. When you say that "sooner or later" the new holes will become too big, exactly what time frame do you have in mind? If you have to drill new holes every six or twelve months, that is hardly a problem. Given the time it takes for the pot to dry to leather hard, at which stage you can 'release' the bat back into use, I can't imagine that you would have to drill too many holes. As Steve mentioned, it is also probably worthwhile getting new screws, assuming you can get the old ones out without too much trouble. Ken Lipworth "Bubbles" wrote in message ... Hehe! The thing is that all holes will sooner or later become too big, since the edges of the screws will kind of file the holes every time you put the bat on the wheel - so I would go through a lot of bats if I didn't find a sollution to the loose bat problem. |
#16
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Too complicated???
If Bubbles gave me her two old bats and new bat, I'd have the four new holes drilled in the old bats in under 60 seconds!! How complicated is it to drill two holes? Ken "Xtra News" wrote in message ... "KSL" wrote in message u... Bubbles If this is all correct and the holes in your bats are now oversize, then the solution seems obvious. Drill new, correct size, holes in the bats. No much to complicated, like Celeste recommended just pad it out with some fairly stiff clay. Works a treat for me. I use bats all the time, I hate working directly on the wheel head. |
#17
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"KSL" wrote in message ... Too complicated??? If Bubbles gave me her two old bats and new bat, I'd have the four new holes drilled in the old bats in under 60 seconds!! How complicated is it to drill two holes? Ken You have to make sure that they are the right size, placed in exactly the right spot, you have to have your drill and your drill bits handy. Clay is just there, it takes 10 seconds, I use a little clay around pins to secure batts all the time whether they are loose or not, last thing you want is a batt flying off. ) |
#18
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In article .com, Jack
Ouzzi writes Steve Mills wrote: I second using a Batgrabber, we've tried them out and think they're excellent. I've used them on the wheelhead without pins, and provided you back off on the muscle power a bit they work really well. Steve Bath UK But why are they nearly double the price here in the UK ?? It costs a reasonable amount of money to import stuff from the USA, to which Import Duty is always added! Dealer's discounts help, but any profit margin also has to take into account the fluctuating values of the currencies involved. It is very easy to *catch a cold*! -- Steve Mills Bath UK |
#19
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Steve Mills wrote: In article .com, Jack Ouzzi writes But why are they nearly double the price here in the UK ?? It costs a reasonable amount of money to import stuff from the USA, to which Import Duty is always added! Ooooh Eck, Thanks Steve !! |
#20
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Could paint a painting on the bat and call it art. Art is duty free.
:^) -- Lee Love in Mashiko, Japan http://mashiko.org http://seisokuro.blogspot.com/ My Photo Logs "We are such stuff As dreams are made on; and our little life Is rounded with a sleep." -- Prospero The Tempest Shakespeare |
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