[Ganoksin] [Issue #132] Tips From The Jeweler's Bench

The Ganoksin Project
S i n c e 1 9 9 6
Jewelry Manufacturing Methods and Techniques
http://www.ganoksin.com

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In This Edition:

1. Mystery and Memory - The Jewelry of Sandra Enterline
2. The Czars' Gold - Masterpieces of Russian Handicrafts
3. Cultured Youth - The Use of Pearls in Cosmetics
4. Wax Build-up Technique: Popular Textural Wax Designs
5. Setting Gemstones in Wax
6. Manufacturing Retailer Benefits from CAD/CAM
7. General Jewelry Repairs Using ABI Mini Pulse Arc III
8. Creative Cold Connections - Setting a Stone with no Soldering

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In This Edition of Tips From The Jeweler's Bench
http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/tip_sear.htm

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1. Mystery and Memory - The Jewelry of Sandra Enterline
By Patricia Harris and David Lyon

Since earning a BFA at the Rhode Island School of Design in 1983,
Enterline has narrowed her focus to a handful of simple shapes and
forms and has emphasized construction so spare that it might almost
seem severe. In the first decade of her career, she often made spheres,
but found herself frustrated by what she calls the "industrial" feeling
of the shape. Around 1992, she began elongating the halves. "If I
raised them up a little bit more, it was an egg form," she recalls,
noting that the shape still remained simple and abstract, yet was
suggestive of the natural world. Since the early 1990s, she has evolved
a library of signature forms-egg, sphere, truncated cone, cylinder,
circular medallion, and four-lobed star fruit-that she repeats with
endless variation. Each one employs a biomorphic geometry that
straddles both the natural world and the constructs of mathematics....


Complete Story:
http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/nena...-enterline.htm

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2. The Czars' Gold - Masterpieces of Russian Handicrafts
By Peter Henselder

The Kremlin Armory houses unique collections of precious items that
mirror the artistic wealth of the country and the relations with other
peoples and regions. They include the fantastic testimonies to Russian
goldsmith art from the 12th to the 20th century. The Czars' gold
conveys an impressive overview of the development in the gold and
silversmith crafts in the East of Europe. Each epoch contributed to the
rich variety. The Kremlin Treasure Chamber is mentioned for the first
time in the 14th century. The bijou owned by the Grand Prince Ivan
Kalita form the basic inventory of the current collection. This is no
coincidental development. This mention is linked to the ascendance of
Moscow as a potent, central power Previously, marauding Mongols and
Tartars had time and again led to destruction and had obstructed the
development of Russian cities....

Complete Story:
http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/nenam/czars-gold.htm

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3. Cultured Youth - The Use of Pearls in Cosmetics
By Cara Woudenberd

Ginseng, green tea, and herb and oil extracts are just a few of the
main ingredients in millions of cosmetics on the market today. And now
pearls have entered the picture in a bigger way, hoping to take the
cosmetics industry by storm. But the use of pearls in cosmetics is not
a new concept. For thousands of years, people in Asia, especially in
China and Japan, have been using pearl powder as a natural remedy to
maintain the appearance of youthful skin. It has also been used in
traditional Chinese medicine as a dietary supplement, usually in
capsule form, to supply the body with amino acids and minerals....

Complete Story:
http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/nena...-skin-care.htm

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4. Wax Build-up Technique: Popular Textural Wax Designs
By Minoru Azama

Aside from the visual pleasure one derives from a textured surface, the
biggest benefit is the ease in finishing the cast piece. No filing, no
burs, no abrasive points, and no scratch removal compounds are
necessary. Simply use a wire brush on the flexshaft for a soft satin
finish. If a mirror finish is desired, then go on to the polishing
wheel....

Complete Story:
http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/nena...ax-designs.htm

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5. Setting Gemstones in Wax
By Gerald N. Lewy

The one of the most revolutionary advance in recent years, apart from
the Laser soldering, is the method of "Setting Stones in Wax". It has
"freed" up many impossible designs and allowing the manufacturer to
forge ahead and create many difficult setting projects. Otherwise, that
company might have had to re-design their ideas and to have the stones
hand set. A jewellery company can now replicate each design with the
same degree of accuracy and professionalism....

Complete Story:
http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/nenam/wax-set-gems.htm

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6. Manufacturing Retailer Benefits from CAD/CAM
By Mark B. Mann

At GLJW it's not unusual to see the sales staff wearing jewelers'
aprons and optivisors at one of the 25 computers showing customers CAD
layouts of a proposed design. Neither is it odd to see customers
watching the mill shape their jewelry or a future bride e-mailing CAD
renderings of her wedding ring to a fiance who lives in another state.
Owner Jim Tuttle, a 19-year bench jeweler with an industrial
engineering background, says the percentage the store makes with
CAD/CAM has gone from 0% to 90% in three years....

Complete Story:
http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/nena...m-benefits.htm

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7. General Jewelry Repairs Using ABI Mini Pulse Arc III
By Mark B. Mann

This article covers routine repair and assembly projects accomplished
using Mini Pulse Arc III. Tack-, fusion- and pulse-arc equipment
settings will differ and are based upon the volume, amount of contact
and alloy of the material you are working with. Practicing using like
materials will give you a parameter for the settings required for your
application. Keep a record of settings and tasks for future
reference....

Complete Story:
http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/nena...ng-repairs.htm

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8. Creative Cold Connections - Setting a Stone with no Soldering
By Tim McCreight

In the jewelry world the term cold connections usually describes
mechanical joining techniques that are used to fasten together parts
that cannot be soldered. In many cases, cold connections fall into a
"layer-this-onto-that" approach. Cold connections are more than a
roster of techniques - they can trigger new ways to think about design.
By combining function, engineering, and aesthetics, cold connections
lead us to fresh ideas. The pendant described here has only four parts
but it uses three kinds of cold connections....

Complete Story:
http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/nena...onnections.htm

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