Gridding Hint!

I'm working on a large, complex spot-type sampler (Long Dog's _Mouline
Rouge_) on 36 count linen. I wanted to grid the fabric every 20
stitches, since the design elements aren't contiguous and I am very
likely to miscount.

I found it very hard to count 40 little threads and not get off by one
in one direction or another. And if one grid line is off, all the
following ones will be too. And it's so BORING to lay in the whole
grid at once! Bleagh.

SO--I marked the center and stitched the center motif. It's easy
enough to do that, since the stitches touch. Then I laid in the grid
lines that pass through that motif. It was easier now that I had
columns and rows of stitches to follow. This let me place the next
motif, and I laid in those grid lines as I came to them, too! Double
checking everything, I find I'm much more accurate than when I try to
follow one little thread across 26" of fabric.

I really like this--It is easier to start the grid line while the
fabric is taut in the hoop. I leave long ends of the grid line
trailing and finish putting them in when I take my work out of the
hoop for the day.

I hope this makes sense and helps someone else.

Monique Reed

Monique

In article , Monique Reed
writes:

I found it very hard to count 40 little threads and not get off

When I'm counting large numbers, I temporarily go under 5, over 5 -- every
stitch I see on top of the fabric means 10 threads. If you're gridding, you'd
obviously do that with a different color than your gridding. One row of 5s in
each direction should suffice to get your grid lines in the right place, and
then you can pull them before you start stitching.


--
Finished 12/14/03 -- Mermaid (Dimensions)
WIP: Angel of Autumn, Calif Sampler, Holiday Snowglobe, Guide the Hands (2d
one)

Paralegal - Writer - Editor - Researcher
http://hometown.aol.com/kmc528/KMC.html

-I marked the center and stitched the center motif. It's easy
enough to do that, since the stitches touch. Then I laid in the grid
lines that pass through that motif. It was easier now that I had
columns and rows of stitches to follow. BRBR

What a fantastic idea!!!!! I have a large chart that requires a grid and I had
been putting it off because I really don't like to grid. As soon as I am off
line, I am going to pull it out and see if that would work with my chart. In
return for your hint, I will give you one I saw here a long time ago. If you
have a very long line of cx and no reference points...like the first line of a
chart..work 9 half cross (the bottom stitch of your usual cx and the 10th is a
full cx and so on. It is a lot easier to count to ten and to count by tens
than the old way. Off to check my chart, Boo

I go under two/over two, under two over two under FOUR over two under two
over two under FOUR with Aida. Double those numbers with evenweave, of
course.

It looks like this : _ _ _ _ _ _ with larger gap in the
vertical rows exactly intersecting the larger gap in the horizontal

Then crossways, do exactly the same so the under 4 exactly intersects the
under 4 in the first row. That way you only really have to count the first
horizontal and vertical rows REALLY carefully, as if you have those right,
the rest just follow on, and you know it`s right every time you get to an
intersection. It sounds horribly complicated, but think about it and it `s
really easy. Maybe a bit more fiddly than just dashing across, but with
this method you can do any parts of your pattern you like and they`ll always
meet up in the right place. This assumes a ten stitch grid, of course.

Pat P
message ...
I'm working on a large, complex spot-type sampler (Long Dog's _Mouline
Rouge_) on 36 count linen. I wanted to grid the fabric every 20
stitches, since the design elements aren't contiguous and I am very
likely to miscount.

I found it very hard to count 40 little threads and not get off by one
in one direction or another. And if one grid line is off, all the
following ones will be too. And it's so BORING to lay in the whole
grid at once! Bleagh.

SO--I marked the center and stitched the center motif. It's easy
enough to do that, since the stitches touch. Then I laid in the grid
lines that pass through that motif. It was easier now that I had
columns and rows of stitches to follow. This let me place the next
motif, and I laid in those grid lines as I came to them, too! Double
checking everything, I find I'm much more accurate than when I try to
follow one little thread across 26" of fabric.

I really like this--It is easier to start the grid line while the
fabric is taut in the hoop. I leave long ends of the grid line
trailing and finish putting them in when I take my work out of the
hoop for the day.

I hope this makes sense and helps someone else.

Monique Reed

Monique

In article ,
says...
I'm working on a large, complex spot-type sampler (Long Dog's _Mouline
Rouge_) on 36 count linen. I wanted to grid the fabric every 20
stitches, since the design elements aren't contiguous and I am very
likely to miscount.

I found it very hard to count 40 little threads and not get off by one
in one direction or another. And if one grid line is off, all the
following ones will be too. And it's so BORING to lay in the whole
grid at once! Bleagh.

SO--I marked the center and stitched the center motif. It's easy
enough to do that, since the stitches touch. Then I laid in the grid
lines that pass through that motif. It was easier now that I had
columns and rows of stitches to follow. This let me place the next
motif, and I laid in those grid lines as I came to them, too! Double
checking everything, I find I'm much more accurate than when I try to
follow one little thread across 26" of fabric.

I really like this--It is easier to start the grid line while the
fabric is taut in the hoop. I leave long ends of the grid line
trailing and finish putting them in when I take my work out of the
hoop for the day.


I would actually like to hear more about gridding. I only tried to do it
once and it was kind of a disaster. It was a very detailed but small
design (one of those Gold Collection things), and I wanted to try the
gridding since miscounting seemed likely; I'm really good at miscounting
on a design with a lot of shading. I used a color that was too dark, and
it left fibers of the color on the floss and fabric, and despite my best
efforts, I managed to make it so that it was *very* hard to remove. I
finally got it all out and was thrilled with the finished work, but I
know I must have been doing something wrong.

I have been growing steadily better and more confident with my
needlework, and seem to know my limits...what I can manage without
frustration. I have recently switched to linen (which was the last thing
I asked about here) with a lot of success because I was careful to start
with a simple project, and am working my way up. Anyway, I have a large,
very highly detailed design with a zillion colors I want to try
"someday." When the someday gets here, I will need to grid if I want to
have any hope of completing it without going nuts. Any helpful tips to
add to this would be appreciated!

--
Chrysta Wilson

The best tip I know is to use lightweight (say 4 lb.) monofilament
fishing line. It comes in all kinds of bright colors. You won't
accidentally split the monofilament with your needle when you are
stitching near it, it is easily removed when you no longer need it, and
it doesn't leave fuzzies behind. You can get 400 yds. for a couple of
bucks at discount stores.

Chrysta Wilson wrote:
I would actually like to hear more about gridding. I only tried to do it
once and it was kind of a disaster. It was a very detailed but small
design (one of those Gold Collection things), and I wanted to try the
gridding since miscounting seemed likely; I'm really good at miscounting
on a design with a lot of shading. I used a color that was too dark, and
it left fibers of the color on the floss and fabric, and despite my best
efforts, I managed to make it so that it was *very* hard to remove. I
finally got it all out and was thrilled with the finished work, but I
know I must have been doing something wrong.

I have been growing steadily better and more confident with my
needlework, and seem to know my limits...what I can manage without
frustration. I have recently switched to linen (which was the last thing
I asked about here) with a lot of success because I was careful to start
with a simple project, and am working my way up. Anyway, I have a large,
very highly detailed design with a zillion colors I want to try
"someday." When the someday gets here, I will need to grid if I want to
have any hope of completing it without going nuts. Any helpful tips to
add to this would be appreciated!

--
Brenda Lewis
WIP: "Pink Baby" photo frame, Candamar

I grid with sewing threads, i thread them every 10th thread or pair of
thrads , 4 in one color the 5th in another ,,,,never had any problem
pullling it out later .
mirjam
, On Sun, 18 Jan 2004 05:22:24 GMT, Brenda Lewis
wrote:

The best tip I know is to use lightweight (say 4 lb.) monofilament
fishing line. It comes in all kinds of bright colors. You won't
accidentally split the monofilament with your needle when you are
stitching near it, it is easily removed when you no longer need it, and
it doesn't leave fuzzies behind. You can get 400 yds. for a couple of
bucks at discount stores.

Chrysta Wilson wrote:
I would actually like to hear more about gridding. I only tried to do it
once and it was kind of a disaster. It was a very detailed but small
design (one of those Gold Collection things), and I wanted to try the
gridding since miscounting seemed likely; I'm really good at miscounting
on a design with a lot of shading. I used a color that was too dark, and
it left fibers of the color on the floss and fabric, and despite my best
efforts, I managed to make it so that it was *very* hard to remove. I
finally got it all out and was thrilled with the finished work, but I
know I must have been doing something wrong.

I have been growing steadily better and more confident with my
needlework, and seem to know my limits...what I can manage without
frustration. I have recently switched to linen (which was the last thing
I asked about here) with a lot of success because I was careful to start
with a simple project, and am working my way up. Anyway, I have a large,
very highly detailed design with a zillion colors I want to try
"someday." When the someday gets here, I will need to grid if I want to
have any hope of completing it without going nuts. Any helpful tips to
add to this would be appreciated!

--
Brenda Lewis
WIP: "Pink Baby" photo frame, Candamar

"Chrysta Wilson" wrote in message
...
In article ,
says...
I'm working on a large, complex spot-type sampler (Long Dog's _Mouline
Rouge_) on 36 count linen. I wanted to grid the fabric every 20
stitches, since the design elements aren't contiguous and I am very
likely to miscount.

I found it very hard to count 40 little threads and not get off by one
in one direction or another. And if one grid line is off, all the
following ones will be too. And it's so BORING to lay in the whole
grid at once! Bleagh.

SO--I marked the center and stitched the center motif. It's easy
enough to do that, since the stitches touch. Then I laid in the grid
lines that pass through that motif. It was easier now that I had
columns and rows of stitches to follow. This let me place the next
motif, and I laid in those grid lines as I came to them, too! Double
checking everything, I find I'm much more accurate than when I try to
follow one little thread across 26" of fabric.

I really like this--It is easier to start the grid line while the
fabric is taut in the hoop. I leave long ends of the grid line
trailing and finish putting them in when I take my work out of the
hoop for the day.


I would actually like to hear more about gridding. I only tried to do it
once and it was kind of a disaster. It was a very detailed but small
design (one of those Gold Collection things), and I wanted to try the
gridding since miscounting seemed likely; I'm really good at miscounting
on a design with a lot of shading. I used a color that was too dark, and
it left fibers of the color on the floss and fabric, and despite my best
efforts, I managed to make it so that it was *very* hard to remove. I
finally got it all out and was thrilled with the finished work, but I
know I must have been doing something wrong.

I have been growing steadily better and more confident with my
needlework, and seem to know my limits...what I can manage without
frustration. I have recently switched to linen (which was the last thing
I asked about here) with a lot of success because I was careful to start
with a simple project, and am working my way up. Anyway, I have a large,
very highly detailed design with a zillion colors I want to try
"someday." When the someday gets here, I will need to grid if I want to
have any hope of completing it without going nuts. Any helpful tips to
add to this would be appreciated!

--
Chrysta Wilson

Use the same method to remove the wispy bits of thread as I use to remove
dog hairs from dark clothing - wrap a piece of scotch tape (or similar)
around your hand and just pat it.

Pat P

Hmmm. Spoke too soon!

Pat P

"Mirjam Bruck-Cohen" wrote in message
...
I grid with sewing threads, i thread them every 10th thread or pair of
thrads , 4 in one color the 5th in another ,,,,never had any problem
pullling it out later .
mirjam
, On Sun, 18 Jan 2004 05:22:24 GMT, Brenda Lewis
wrote:

The best tip I know is to use lightweight (say 4 lb.) monofilament
fishing line. It comes in all kinds of bright colors. You won't
accidentally split the monofilament with your needle when you are
stitching near it, it is easily removed when you no longer need it, and
it doesn't leave fuzzies behind. You can get 400 yds. for a couple of
bucks at discount stores.

Chrysta Wilson wrote:
I would actually like to hear more about gridding. I only tried to do
it
once and it was kind of a disaster. It was a very detailed but small
design (one of those Gold Collection things), and I wanted to try the
gridding since miscounting seemed likely; I'm really good at
miscounting
on a design with a lot of shading. I used a color that was too dark,
and
it left fibers of the color on the floss and fabric, and despite my
best
efforts, I managed to make it so that it was *very* hard to remove. I
finally got it all out and was thrilled with the finished work, but I
know I must have been doing something wrong.

I have been growing steadily better and more confident with my
needlework, and seem to know my limits...what I can manage without
frustration. I have recently switched to linen (which was the last
thing
I asked about here) with a lot of success because I was careful to
start
with a simple project, and am working my way up. Anyway, I have a
large,
very highly detailed design with a zillion colors I want to try
"someday." When the someday gets here, I will need to grid if I want to
have any hope of completing it without going nuts. Any helpful tips to
add to this would be appreciated!

--
Brenda Lewis
WIP: "Pink Baby" photo frame, Candamar

I posted this before, but maybe you did not see it. When you grid
use something like monofilament or quilter's thread, which does not leave
fuzzies behind, and is virtually impossible to pierce with a needle. HTH.

Chrysta Wilson ) writes:

I would actually like to hear more about gridding. I only tried to do it
once and it was kind of a disaster. It was a very detailed but small
design (one of those Gold Collection things), and I wanted to try the
gridding since miscounting seemed likely; I'm really good at miscounting
on a design with a lot of shading. I used a color that was too dark, and
it left fibers of the color on the floss and fabric, and despite my best
efforts, I managed to make it so that it was *very* hard to remove. I
finally got it all out and was thrilled with the finished work, but I
know I must have been doing something wrong.

I have been growing steadily better and more confident with my
needlework, and seem to know my limits...what I can manage without
frustration. I have recently switched to linen (which was the last thing
I asked about here) with a lot of success because I was careful to start
with a simple project, and am working my way up. Anyway, I have a large,
very highly detailed design with a zillion colors I want to try
"someday." When the someday gets here, I will need to grid if I want to
have any hope of completing it without going nuts. Any helpful tips to
add to this would be appreciated!

--
Chrysta Wilson



--
Jim Cripwell.
The gods do not subtract from the allotted span of one's life, any
time that is spent in stitching.
Adapted from a sign on The Cobb, Lyme Regis, England.