material for making patterns

Does anybody have any ideas for materials to use as patterns for
stained glass? My problem is when I go to grind my pieces, I can't get
them to stay stuck to the glass when they get wet. I've use super
sticky tape, rubber cement and any kind of marker that I have tried has
washed away as soon as water hits it. Any help will greatly
appreciated.
Thanks

"Moose" wrote in message
oups.com...
Does anybody have any ideas for materials to use as patterns for
stained glass? My problem is when I go to grind my pieces, I can't get
them to stay stuck to the glass when they get wet. I've use super
sticky tape, rubber cement and any kind of marker that I have tried has
washed away as soon as water hits it. Any help will greatly
appreciated.
Thanks

How much water is your grinder slinging around? You don't need to flood the
glass.

There is a product called "Mark-Stay", comes in a little screw-top bottle.
It's the consistency of axle grease, and pretty waxy. It will protect your
Sharpie marks.....or, you can just use plain old Vaseline over the marks.
But you'll have to wash the glass very well or the foil won't stick.

You also could use paint pens...gold and silver work good and seem to be
more water proof than markers.

Best advice? cut the glass closer to finished pattern size, and knock off
all the grinding. You should only have to use the grinder to put a matte
finish on the edge of the piece so the foil sticks, not grind the piece to
finish fit size. Practice on the cutting......

Moose wrote:
Does anybody have any ideas for materials to use as patterns for
stained glass? My problem is when I go to grind my pieces, I can't get
them to stay stuck to the glass when they get wet. I've use super
sticky tape, rubber cement and any kind of marker that I have tried has
washed away as soon as water hits it. Any help will greatly
appreciated.
Thanks

If you take the time to learn how to trace cut, you won't need patterns
of any kind.
http://www.debrady.com/technical/articles.htm#cutting

Dennis Brady

DeBrady Glass - http://www.debrady.com
Victorian Art Glass - http://www.victorianartglass.biz
Glass Campus - http://www.glasscampus.com

"Moose" wrote in message
oups.com...
Does anybody have any ideas for materials to use as patterns for
stained glass? My problem is when I go to grind my pieces, I can't get
them to stay stuck to the glass when they get wet. I've use super
sticky tape, rubber cement and any kind of marker that I have tried has
washed away as soon as water hits it. Any help will greatly
appreciated.
Thanks


You're spending way too much time at your grinder. You need to learn to
cut accurately the first time, and just grind to take the sharpness off the
edges so the foil will stick. I use a light table and sharpies, and have no
trouble with the mark washing off.


--
JK Sinrod
www.SinrodStudios.com
www.MyConeyIslandMemories.com

Here's two other options that our esteemed Mr. Brady also has on his
website. Why he failed to mention them is unknown but I'm sure our
speculators will come up with somthing.
================================

Template cutting involves first cutting the desired pattern shapes out
of paper or cardboard. These "templates" are then held on the glass, or
attached with glue or tape. The cutting score is made by running the
cutter along the outside edges of these templates.

Stencil cutting also includes cutting out templates, but instead of
scoring along the template, the pattern is drawn onto the glass using
the template as a stencil. The cutting score is then made on the lines
drawn onto the glass. A variation of this method is when the glass is
put over the pattern and the pattern lines drawn on the glass.


wrote:
Moose wrote:
Does anybody have any ideas for materials to use as patterns for
stained glass? My problem is when I go to grind my pieces, I can't get
them to stay stuck to the glass when they get wet. I've use super
sticky tape, rubber cement and any kind of marker that I have tried has
washed away as soon as water hits it. Any help will greatly
appreciated.
Thanks

If you take the time to learn how to trace cut, you won't need patterns
of any kind.
http://www.debrady.com/technical/articles.htm#cutting

Dennis Brady

DeBrady Glass - http://www.debrady.com
Victorian Art Glass - http://www.victorianartglass.biz
Glass Campus - http://www.glasscampus.com

wrote:
Here's two other options that our esteemed Mr. Brady also has on his
website. Why he failed to mention them is unknown but I'm sure our
speculators will come up with somthing.
================================


There's more than one way to do everything. "Template" and "Stencil"
cutting methods work but "Trace" cutting is more efficient - providing
you are willing to take the time to learn how. It's our practice to
teach all methods. We've put several hundred students through our
"Cutting Clinic" classes at various locals. I've not yet seen a single
participant that didn't leave with the belief that "Trace" cutting
would in future always be their preferred choice.

http://www.glasscampus.com/VGAF/page...tingclinic.htm

Stencil cutting also includes cutting out templates, but instead of
scoring along the template, the pattern is drawn onto the glass using
the template as a stencil. The cutting score is then made on the lines
drawn onto the glass. A variation of this method is when the glass is
put over the pattern and the pattern lines drawn on the glass.

This is what I usually do using a paint pen. The ink will wash off
sometimes and I reapply the paint when that happens. At my old house where
I had a light table I did the cut on the trace thing and that works well
when one can see through the glass well enough.
Tomes

Tomes wrote:
Stencil cutting also includes cutting out templates, but instead of
scoring along the template, the pattern is drawn onto the glass using
the template as a stencil. The cutting score is then made on the lines
drawn onto the glass. A variation of this method is when the glass is
put over the pattern and the pattern lines drawn on the glass.

This is what I usually do using a paint pen. The ink will wash off
sometimes and I reapply the paint when that happens. At my old house where
I had a light table I did the cut on the trace thing and that works well
when one can see through the glass well enough.
Tomes

Another alternative (not as efficient as trace cutting, but a lot more
efficient than cutting out scraps of paper for templates) is using
carbon paper to transfer the pattern onto the glass. For dark glass,
white, orange and yellow carbon paper is available from art supply
shops.

wrote in message
oups.com...

Another alternative (not as efficient as trace cutting, but a lot more
efficient than cutting out scraps of paper for templates) is using
carbon paper to transfer the pattern onto the glass. For dark glass,
white, orange and yellow carbon paper is available from art supply
shops.


Now, that's just nucking futz!

Putting slick carbon paper on top of slick glass and trying to hold a
pattern still and trace it is abysmally stupid.

Moonraker wrote:
wrote in message
oups.com...

Another alternative (not as efficient as trace cutting, but a lot more
efficient than cutting out scraps of paper for templates) is using
carbon paper to transfer the pattern onto the glass. For dark glass,
white, orange and yellow carbon paper is available from art supply
shops.


Now, that's just nucking futz!

Putting slick carbon paper on top of slick glass and trying to hold a
pattern still and trace it is abysmally stupid.

Nobody else has found it particularly difficult to do - and it sure
beats dicking about snipping up scraps of paper to make templates.