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#1
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Polyclay weakness
I am having some trouble with the strength of thin ( 4 mm ) thick polyclay.
I use Fimo,and it tends to break very easily. I am making large flat shapes, then decorating them with various things. I am sure I have the temperature right, ( I use an oven thermometer ), so would there be another kind of Polyclay that would be stronger. I was recommended Sculpy once, yet not tried it. Any suggestions would be welcome. I do live in the UK though so American Polyclay might not be available here. -- Jackdaw, collector of facts, trivia and bright twinkly things |
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#2
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Polyclay weakness
For strength and thinness, I'd try mixing Premo with your Fimo
classic, using Premo by itself or better yet, Katoclay. Barbara On Mar 27, 2:54 am, "Dicon" wrote: I am having some trouble with the strength of thin ( 4 mm ) thick polyclay. I use Fimo,and it tends to break very easily. I am making large flat shapes, then decorating them with various things. I am sure I have the temperature right, ( I use an oven thermometer ), so would there be another kind of Polyclay that would be stronger. I was recommended Sculpy once, yet not tried it. Any suggestions would be welcome. I do live in the UK though so American Polyclay might not be available here. -- Jackdaw, collector of facts, trivia and bright twinkly things |
#3
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Polyclay weakness
Hi, Jackdsw--
The other variable besides curing temperature and brand is conditioning. Hte clay has to be "exercised"--the equivalent of running it through a pasta machine about 15 times--or enough to mix colors thoroughly--to develop the flexibility. Cured unconditioned clay is very brittle. Georgia www.georgiamorgan.net "Dicon" wrote in message ... I am having some trouble with the strength of thin ( 4 mm ) thick polyclay. I use Fimo,and it tends to break very easily. I am making large flat shapes, then decorating them with various things. I am sure I have the temperature right, ( I use an oven thermometer ), so would there be another kind of Polyclay that would be stronger. I was recommended Sculpy once, yet not tried it. Any suggestions would be welcome. I do live in the UK though so American Polyclay might not be available here. -- Jackdaw, collector of facts, trivia and bright twinkly things |
#4
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Polyclay weakness
"Georgia" wrote in message m... Hi, Jackdsw-- The other variable besides curing temperature and brand is conditioning. Hte clay has to be "exercised"--the equivalent of running it through a pasta machine about 15 times--or enough to mix colors thoroughly--to develop the flexibility. Cured unconditioned clay is very brittle. Georgia www.georgiamorgan.net Thanks for BOTH the above tips. I didn't realise that the conditioning had any effect on it. Would that effect those articles that have been "waiting" for a week to be cooked? Anyway, I think I will need to look out a pasta machine. I did have one once, but only for pasta but it was a ***** to clean so threw it away in the bin. Oh Well....live and learn. -- Jackdaw, collector of facts, trivia and bright twinkly things my addy is |
#5
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Polyclay weakness
Thanks for BOTH the above tips. I didn't realise that the conditioning had
any effect on it. Would that effect those articles that have been "waiting" for a week to be cooked? Anyway, I think I will need to look out a pasta machine. I did have one once, but only for pasta but it was a ***** to clean so threw it away in the bin. Oh Well....live and learn. -- Jackdaw, collector of facts, trivia and bright twinkly things my addy is I don't know if this is an option for you, but Mona Kissel is offering a modification to the Atlas 150 that makes cleaning the PM a breeze. I haven't done this, yet, but all reviews (from people I trust) have been 100% positive: http://www.monakissel.com/toolspasta.html |
#6
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Polyclay weakness
"Dicon" wrote in message ... snip I didn't realise that the conditioning had any effect on it. Would that effect those articles that have been "waiting" for a week to be cooked? I've never read that it did, but from (sad) personal experience, I'd say that I think it does. I try not to let things even wait overnight. Which means I should get down to my studio NOW! Georgia |
#7
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Polyclay weakness
"Georgia" wrote in message m... "Dicon" wrote in message ... snip I didn't realise that the conditioning had any effect on it. Would that effect those articles that have been "waiting" for a week to be cooked? I've never read that it did, but from (sad) personal experience, I'd say that I think it does. I try not to let things even wait overnight. Which means I should get down to my studio NOW! sigh Thanks for that. We live and learn. Back to the drawing board. thinks ) I wonder if I bashed the stuff with a mallet a few times, do you think that would condition it? more thinks Probably have to remove Fimo from hair and surrounding vicinity! OK. Will lookout a pasta machine, they do surface now and then in Charity / Thrift Shops. Until then it's muscle power. Thanks for the feed-back. -- Jackdaw, collector of facts, trivia and bright twinkly things my addy is |
#8
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Polyclay weakness
I am having some trouble with the strength of thin ( 4 mm ) thick polyclay. I use Fimo,and it tends to break very easily. I am making large flat shapes, then decorating them with various things. I am sure I have the temperature right, ( I use an oven thermometer ), so would there be another kind of Polyclay that would be stronger. I was recommended Sculpy once, yet not tried it. Any suggestions would be welcome. I do live in the UK though so American Polyclay might not be available here. You don't want to try Sculpey III because it is the weakest of all the colored clays, and original Sculpey, used by modelers, is even weaker than Sculpey III. If you can find Sculpey in the UK you may be able to find Premo as it's made by the same company, Polyform. Premo is much stronger. You said you were making "large flat shapes." I'm wondering how large, because polymer clay only has so much strength on its own. If you're making something flat no more than about 10cm square and it's meant to hang on a wall you probably don't need a backing. If it's any larger and/or has a structural function there are a number of materials you could use, depending on size and purpose. How big are they and what are you doing with your pieces? |
#9
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Polyclay weakness
"Martha" nospam @ nospam.com wrote in message news:41FOh.1203$NO.862@trndny05... I am having some trouble with the strength of thin ( 4 mm ) thick polyclay. I use Fimo,and it tends to break very easily. I am making large flat shapes, SNIP You said you were making "large flat shapes." I'm wondering how large, because polymer clay only has so much strength on its own. If you're making something flat no more than about 10cm square and it's meant to hang on a wall you probably don't need a backing. If it's any larger and/or has a structural function there are a number of materials you could use, depending on size and purpose. How big are they and what are you doing with your pieces? They are small crucifixes approx four inches by three inches. The thickness would be one quarter inch. I have made the initial few from 4mm wood which is both light and strong, so I know the design works. They are aimed at the "Goth" market, and so far, the response from the few shops that have seen the design are favourable. I cook the Fimo in the gas oven and as I have used an oven thermometer, I guess the temperature & timing is correct. I will look around the web for Premo and try a design in that. Thanks for the tip. Still looking for a second hand Pasta machine. -- Jackdaw, collector of facts, trivia and bright twinkly things. |
#10
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Polyclay weakness
"Dicon" wrote in message ... "Martha" nospam @ nospam.com wrote in message news:41FOh.1203$NO.862@trndny05... I am having some trouble with the strength of thin ( 4 mm ) thick polyclay. I use Fimo,and it tends to break very easily. I am making large flat shapes, SNIP You said you were making "large flat shapes." I'm wondering how large, because polymer clay only has so much strength on its own. If you're making something flat no more than about 10cm square and it's meant to hang on a wall you probably don't need a backing. If it's any larger and/or has a structural function there are a number of materials you could use, depending on size and purpose. How big are they and what are you doing with your pieces? They are small crucifixes approx four inches by three inches. The thickness would be one quarter inch. I have made the initial few from 4mm wood which is both light and strong, so I know the design works. They are aimed at the "Goth" market, and so far, the response from the few shops that have seen the design are favourable. I cook the Fimo in the gas oven and as I have used an oven thermometer, I guess the temperature & timing is correct. I will look around the web for Premo and try a design in that. Thanks for the tip. Still looking for a second hand Pasta machine. -- Jackdaw, collector of facts, trivia and bright twinkly things. If you're making the "base" out of flat wood it should be strong enough to support the clay as long as it's well conditioned, and especially as you've got Premo now. Are you using glue to tack the unbaked clay onto the wood? If you're not I would definitely recommend brushing on a thin, even layer and laying down the base clay while the glue is still tacky, and then rolling or braying the clay over the wood to get a good, tight bond and make sure all the air bubbles are gone. I don't know what brands are available in UK but most of the white PVA glues they sell for fabric crafts are good for clay. You can go here http://www.glassattic.com/polymer/glues-Diluent.htm for more info. Click on "White" glues at top of page. Try and find something labeled as nontoxic. If you're not already doing so it would probably help to put a sealer coat or two of a clay-friendly varnish over finished product. It does add strength as well as protect the finish. I have thrown out a few oven thermometers for being wildly inaccurate, so make sure you double check yours. Good luck with your projects. Hope you can sell a bunch. Martha |
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