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#1
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Small opening
Dang beautiful here in NoCal. No hur'canes
in sight. Another good day above ground. I often pass my rope or cord through an opening not much bigger than the rope itself. What is the preferred hitch for this attachment? A small opening will not allow a double pass as in a round turn & 2HH, or an anchor hitch. I've looked though my books and I'm using something called a lobster-buoy hitch. It ends up looking like two half-hitches, but with the end trapped against the anchorage. Is this a good choice? What would you use? Luke in Ca |
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#2
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x-no-archive: yes
"Luke 451" wrote: Dang beautiful here in NoCal. No hur'canes in sight. Another good day above ground. Tell us that when an entire subdivision just slides down the slope and disappears in the ocean. :-)) I often pass my rope or cord through an opening not much bigger than the rope itself. What is the preferred hitch for this attachment? A small opening will not allow a double pass as in a round turn & 2HH, or an anchor hitch. Is there much load on your rope? Can you just pass it through the opening and put a sturdy stopper knot on the other end? After all, that _is_ for the most part the function of a "stopper knot". -- Karl Pollak, British Columbia Sea Scouting in Canada at http://www.seascouts.ca/ |
#3
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Luke 451 schreef:
I'm using something called a lobster-buoy hitch. What would you use? hi Luke, you must tie it under load? you have to untie it after heavy loading? you untie and release it when loaded? it has to stay tied under all conditions? it has to be adjusted? you can cut and waste the line afterwards? there is plenty time and you can bring an instruction book? you have only one hand available? is it to halter an animal? o, and an important one: do other people have to be able to understand how to untie it? examples: I used a marlin spike hitch as a stopper knot with release (out of curiosity) I used the HFP slippery 8 loop in monofilament, to hang and adjust posters (thanks roo) lobster buoy hitch? good solution in non critical situations, I usually use something without thinking, without a name when I think of it, I use a loop knot I learned long ago (to tie cows to a ring) it needs only one tuck and it is a slipped loop knot I never saw it mentioned in a book or website I have to tie it, to see it, to discribe it here ... actually it is a slipped buntline hitch but not tied as a hitch, it is tied as a loop (through the eye or ring) with the 'loop knot' away from the ring or eye (not snuggled up to it) and the final (only) tuck with the doubled end (as a slipped end) is pulled tight hard, parallel to the 'standing' part (away from the ring) in such a way that the knot is spilled in a fixed form, not sliding towards the ring (does this make sense? I am not sure how to say this in English) it is not the safest knot I suppose, I only use it in non critical situations but it never failed me, not even with cows and (to my surprise) it never slided tight to the ring and become a slipped buntline hitch) now I think of it, it is not very different from a lobster buoy hitch (that one is not mentioned often too) knot thinking, Ben --- Shunryu Suzuki : "In the beginner's mind there are many possibilities, in the expert's mind there are few" |
#4
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wrote in message oups.com... Luke 451 schreef: I'm using something called a lobster-buoy hitch. What would you use? hi Luke, you must tie it under load? you have to untie it after heavy loading? you untie and release it when loaded? it has to stay tied under all conditions? it has to be adjusted? you can cut and waste the line afterwards? there is plenty time and you can bring an instruction book? you have only one hand available? is it to halter an animal? o, and an important one: do other people have to be able to understand how to untie it? Ben, I had to chuckle at this, but I get your point. Everything is conditional and answers depend on the conditions. I'm making a permanent connection in this case, and altho others will use it, I don't want them having to alter it. No animals are involved and it's not under a load when I tie it. I've tried a stopper (Ashley's) like Karl suggested but I prefer the cord not being able slide. Heck, two overhands probably would hold for years, but where's the art in that? I'll see if I can figure out the slipped buntline as a loop that you described. Thanks for your attn. Luke in Ca |
#5
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Luke 451 schreef: I'm making a permanent connection in this case, and altho others will use it, I don't want them having to alter it. Heck, two overhands probably would hold for years, but where's the art in that? I'll see if I can figure out the slipped buntline as a loop that you described. hi Luke, no no, I do not say a "slipped buntline as a loop" is a knot I want to suggest to you and I think it is not suitable for a permanent connection yes yes, I am interested what you think of it (good name for now: "slipped buntline as a loop") permanent connection, that is still a bit unclear ;-) the most demanding connection ... the eye in a flapping sail? since it can give repetitive beating, hold strong forces and most demanding of all: withstand dangling without load then, my candidate is the buntline hitch 'pur sang' but you might need a knife to release it good solution: lobster buoy hitch or try an eye spice knotting is art, Ben |
#6
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x-no-archive: yes
"Luke 451" wrote: load when I tie it. I've tried a stopper (Ashley's) like Karl suggested but I prefer the cord not being able slide. No problemo, dude. Just tie a double Matthew Walker before and after the rope passes through the hole. Ellegant, permanent, no movement. Trim and finish off with a neat sailmaker's whipping. -- Karl Pollak, British Columbia Sea Scouting in Canada at http://www.seascouts.ca/ |
#7
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suggested but I prefer the cord not being able slide.
No problemo, dude. Just tie a double Matthew Walker before and after Unless one has braided rope, then the double (either side) stopper solution is needed. There is a form of what might be called "the fig.9" knot (one more half-twist than a fig.8, one less than the Stevedore) that is symmetric, and surely stronger as a mid-line knot than the Overhand. One could tie this and then finish by setting the end-most Overhand stopper snug, or otherwise use Ashley's Stopper and try to work the Fig.9 variant snug (you might not care that it be all so completely snug). For the symmetric Fig.9: tie an overhand such that the rope runs from L to R, then anticlockwise up & back down crossing UNDER and continuing around clockwise up OVER & tucked out Under; now, end pointing upwards at this stage, bring it anticlockwise back around and tuck out UNDER only the last segment of the Overhand (part between its last two tucks--the Over/Under ones). You'll need to work this tight, but it doesn't further tighten under load, unlike say an Overhand (hardest knot to unjam!) or Fig.8. --dl* ==== |
#8
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A Mathew Walker on both sides would be the safest, don't you think?
Well, I pointed out that MW requires laid rope. But besides that, no, I don't think it would be safest: if none of various methods fails, they're equally safe; moreover, the MW knot is less bulky, and that in itself might make it more vulnerable to pulling through. But all this is a per-case assessment. I think that the MW would be, as KP opines, most elegant! (Better be, for it will be the most troublesome to tie.) So, choose as needs & desires dictate. (-; |
#9
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Small opening
Luke 451 wrote:
load when I tie it. I've tried a stopper (Ashley's) like Karl Are you refering to what Ashley called the Oysterman's stopper? That's what I would use in the bitter end. For the standing part, I would like to see a nicer lead such as the The double overhand knot (Ashley 516 in my 1944 edition). I'd tie the Oysterman's first then tie the double over hand and work it up snug against the opening. Ted |
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