Took a class

On Mon, 12 Feb 2007 05:38:37 GMT in rec.crafts.jewelry Abrasha
, pulled fingers out of his butt and stuck 'em in
his mouth and said gsrmuumfmdmurmmscommwuummm:
Peter W.. Rowe, wrote:
On Sun, 11 Feb 2007 18:47:45 -0800, in rec.crafts.jewelry Abrasha
wrote:

Frosty wrote:


Anyway it's an unbelievable substance that I put on my sawblades and
it helps me cut straighter and easier and I don't break sawblades
hardly at all (and I use 9/0 blades mostly.)
A total waste of money. Spit is the best lubricant. Just lick your saw
blades. Never fails. I've been doing it for more than 30 years.

And after the first few years, either you learn to lick the blade in the
downward direction, or the cuts stop hurting so much in any case.

personally, I prefer bur life over spit, especially on drill bits. Seems less
messy. Not that it works better, though...

On drill bits, I use Wintergreen oil.

I can't find genuine Wintergreen oil. Will synthetic do?


one "tongue-in-cheek" problem with spit, of course, is that it might cause a
blade to rust.

Rust has never been a problem, since the blades do not stay wet long
enough. Thew spit evaporates due to the heat developed through
friction. That's how fast I saw. And when I file, it gets so hot,
sparks fly!

You must be sawing steel. ;-)

That might mean needing to change the blade more than once a
year or so, before the teeth are totally worn off.

Most of the time, my blades do indeed wear out and get dull, before they
break. It was very different when I was a beginner.

Frosty wrote:

On drill bits, I use Wintergreen oil.

I can't find genuine Wintergreen oil. Will synthetic do?

Yes. I don't think genuine Wintergreen oil can be found anywhere anymore.

one "tongue-in-cheek" problem with spit, of course, is that it might cause a
blade to rust.
Rust has never been a problem, since the blades do not stay wet long
enough. Thew spit evaporates due to the heat developed through
friction. That's how fast I saw. And when I file, it gets so hot,
sparks fly!

You must be sawing steel. ;-)

Yep, but I even make sparks fly when I saw gold. That's how good I am.

I'll try to take a picture and post it.

--
Abrasha
http://www.abrasha.com

On Mon, 12 Feb 2007 08:48:47 +0000, Peter W.. Rowe, wrote:


or me either, or I'll never get another discount from him again :-)
And hey, I'm jealous of the boot thing. What I get for not living in the bay
area, I guess. Dang.

Seriously, though, I rather think if you eat the shipping costs, you'll have
lost any price advantage you might have gotten from other dealers.
Peter

Ok, for the sake of the comunity I'll stick with what I got and learn from
my errors.

Thanks gentlemen,
matthew
ohio

On Mon, 12 Feb 2007 02:45:16 +0000, Peter W.. Rowe, wrote:

On Sun, 11 Feb 2007 18:33:12 -0800, in rec.crafts.jewelry MatthewK
wrote:


I'm wondering if the european manufactured ones would be better for
knives and such. Need something to do with a worn out file. I pretty
much feel files are "disposable". That's also what I've been told by
"old" guys.

There may be differences, but if you're only just learning things about
knife making, I wouldn't sweat it too much. use what you have. Most
good knives are not made from old files, but rather, more sophisticated
alloys, like the various 400 serious stainless steels, or better grades
of tool steels suited to knives. If you're just starting out, I rather
suspect your technical skills are not finely enough honed yet to be able
to really take much advantage of subtle differences that might exist
between the steels used in european files versus american ones, if there
even are any.


I'll aways have some use for old files. Right now I'm setup for doing
low alloy carbon tool steels, if I had a heat treating oven instead of a
gas forge, I would play with M2, A2, etc.

If you ever mention stainless and knife again....I might get my posts
refused. Seriously though, I would need a much better setup to heat
treat stainless. I could farm it out.....but as a whole me and
stainless don't like each other. Your absolutely right about my technical
skills too. I'm approaching a lot of this as a "tool maker" and not a
knifemaker. It's all very amature night. I just got my forge built and I
am playing with some samples. I'll run some more test pieces before I heat
treat any knives I have in the works.

One of my future project ideas is to make a "stockman" pocket knife from
scratch.


I should of checked my purchases out better. But still don't feel too
bad. A lot of the reason I purchased everything from one suplier off
the bat was time/convience. I just didn't think of looking through
machining type resources. I also should of ordered catalogs a month
ago. Took my first class and wanted stuff now......


I didn't mean to suggest you should feel bad at all.

I didn't take it as anything but good advice. Should of been more
patient and researched, ask questions here, basically what you and Abrasha
said.

matthew
ohio

Abrasha wrote:
ted frater wrote:


what do other folks use to lube metal cutting saws?
Have a nice day.



Spit.

have you always had plenty of that?

Frosty wrote:
On Sun, 11 Feb 2007 10:23:21 GMT in rec.crafts.jewelry ted frater
, pulled fingers out of his butt and stuck 'em
in his mouth and said gsrmuuygfubcnnowuummm:

Frosty wrote:

So I took my first jewelry class last monday, had a really good time. I

snippy

I met a guy on there who is trying to launch a business selling this
magical stuff I like to call Brown's Snake Oil (He calls it
BrownPolymer because either his name is Brown or he has it tested as
Brown University or both, but it's not brown but rather sorta tan...)
Anyway it's an unbelievable substance that I put on my sawblades and
it helps me cut straighter and easier and I don't break sawblades
hardly at all (and I use 9/0 blades mostly.)
(If any of you know where I can get a couple gross of 10/0 blades I'd
be most appreciative.)
The Orchid list is here http://www.ganoksin.com/invite.htm
The Snake Oil god is here

Frosty


Hey!!, its Sunday morning and its coffee time as well. Its so wet
outside im sitting in my living room with the wood fire going well,
Time to have a think,
So snake oil you say? to lubricate thin saw blades a subject dear to my
heart.
We do a lot of sawing here, from jewellers piercing size to big band saw
size with lotsof different saws in between.
To lubricate metal cutting by hand iive allways used a petroleum wax
candle as it stays on the blade even if it gets warm.
you can use bees wax, or any other lubricating oil.
theres a thread cutting compound thats based on stearin ie soap,
tho ive not tried that on a jewellers hand saw. Its also usedin the
wire drawing industry, so it must be good.
Weve cut with our power hack saw, the sort that goes back and forth
like a donkey engine and weve used water to keep the blade cool, cutting
3in round bar.
So your snake oil could be just about like corn oil Just about any oil
would work well.
WD 40 is I belive mostly kerosene with a pretty smell. Expensive for
what it is. This works too but doesnt last long
Finally the previous writer paid nearly $300 for those small tools?
they saw them coming. Thed be a quarter of that from the tool suppliers
in the Birmingham jewellery quarter tool shops, and not the cheap
chinese copies.
what do other folks use to lube metal cutting saws?
Have a nice day.


Yeah, you can lop off great slabs of steel with an electric hack saw,
but if your cuts need to be precise or if you're engraving or bright
cutting, you don't want putrid globs of sheep-dip lube or corn-hole
oil all over a fine piece of platinum jewelry.
The nice thing about this polymer over conventional oils is that you
need only apply it ONE time, and it need only to coat the surface of
the cutting tool (know how think a surface is?)
So yeah, maybe if a person is thrashing about with crude, stone-age
tools, , any ol' oil would work just fine. Heck,
I'll betcha spit would work for you too.

You have a nice day too Tom.



Hang on a minuite, if im cutting off a piece of Grane ( thats swedish to
you) tool steel, i wouldnt want to use a jewellers piercing saw to do it.
That tool steel is the best for drop stamping dies and I happened to
aquire a 6ft length of it. thats where the 3in bar bit cane in my
previous post.
Cutting it off is just the start of a long process that finishes up
with some serious detail precision 3D die sinking.
That will match any of your fine sawing in detail and skill. So dont
knock whats horses for courses.

Frosty wrote:
On Mon, 12 Feb 2007 05:38:37 GMT in rec.crafts.jewelry Abrasha
, pulled fingers out of his butt and stuck 'em in
his mouth and said gsrmuumfmdmurmmscommwuummm:

Peter W.. Rowe, wrote:

On Sun, 11 Feb 2007 18:47:45 -0800, in rec.crafts.jewelry Abrasha
wrote:


Frosty wrote:



Anyway it's an unbelievable substance that I put on my sawblades and
it helps me cut straighter and easier and I don't break sawblades
hardly at all (and I use 9/0 blades mostly.)

A total waste of money. Spit is the best lubricant. Just lick your saw
blades. Never fails. I've been doing it for more than 30 years.

And after the first few years, either you learn to lick the blade in the
downward direction, or the cuts stop hurting so much in any case.

personally, I prefer bur life over spit, especially on drill bits. Seems less
messy. Not that it works better, though...

On drill bits, I use Wintergreen oil.


I can't find genuine Wintergreen oil. Will synthetic do?

one "tongue-in-cheek" problem with spit, of course, is that it might cause a
blade to rust.

Rust has never been a problem, since the blades do not stay wet long
enough. Thew spit evaporates due to the heat developed through
friction. That's how fast I saw. And when I file, it gets so hot,
sparks fly!


You must be sawing steel. ;-)

That might mean needing to change the blade more than once a
year or so, before the teeth are totally worn off.

Most of the time, my blades do indeed wear out and get dull, before they
break. It was very different when I was a beginner.



If you really want to see sparks fly try sawing lighter flint.
you can get it in big blocks from a backwoods mens shop.

MatthewK wrote:
On Mon, 12 Feb 2007 08:48:47 +0000, Peter W.. Rowe, wrote:

or me either, or I'll never get another discount from him again :-)
And hey, I'm jealous of the boot thing. What I get for not living in the bay
area, I guess. Dang.

Seriously, though, I rather think if you eat the shipping costs, you'll have
lost any price advantage you might have gotten from other dealers.
Peter

Ok, for the sake of the comunity I'll stick with what I got and learn from
my errors.


Don't worry about a thing. I still have all the hand files I got over
30 years ago (September 1973) with my first set of tools. The only
difference here is, that I did not choose them, I was told to buy them
by the school I went to. They were on a list the I was given, with all
the tools that I needed to buy.

Those hand files are all #3, and they stink, ... big time. Not even
useful as nail files.

--
Abrasha
http://www.abrasha.com

"Abrasha" wrote in message
...
MatthewK wrote:
On Mon, 12 Feb 2007 08:48:47 +0000, Peter W.. Rowe, wrote:

or me either, or I'll never get another discount from him again :-)
And hey, I'm jealous of the boot thing. What I get for not living in the bay
area, I guess. Dang.

Seriously, though, I rather think if you eat the shipping costs, you'll have
lost any price advantage you might have gotten from other dealers.
Peter

Ok, for the sake of the comunity I'll stick with what I got and learn from
my errors.


Don't worry about a thing. I still have all the hand files I got over
30 years ago (September 1973) with my first set of tools. The only
difference here is, that I did not choose them, I was told to buy them
by the school I went to. They were on a list the I was given, with all
the tools that I needed to buy.

Those hand files are all #3, and they stink, ... big time. Not even
useful as nail files.



I still have my #3 and #4 files from when I was an apprentice. Like you they
were on the list of tools to buy by my trade school,
and they haven't been used since.

Cheers,
Dale.

On Tue, 13 Feb 2007 03:59:06 GMT in rec.crafts.jewelry ted frater
, intended to write something intelligible, but
instead wrote :

snipps

Hey!!, its Sunday morning and its coffee time as well. Its so wet
outside im sitting in my living room with the wood fire going well,
Time to have a think,
So snake oil you say? to lubricate thin saw blades a subject dear to my
heart.
We do a lot of sawing here, from jewellers piercing size to big band saw
size with lotsof different saws in between.
To lubricate metal cutting by hand iive allways used a petroleum wax
candle as it stays on the blade even if it gets warm.
you can use bees wax, or any other lubricating oil.
theres a thread cutting compound thats based on stearin ie soap,
tho ive not tried that on a jewellers hand saw. Its also usedin the
wire drawing industry, so it must be good.
Weve cut with our power hack saw, the sort that goes back and forth
like a donkey engine and weve used water to keep the blade cool, cutting
3in round bar.
So your snake oil could be just about like corn oil Just about any oil
would work well.
WD 40 is I belive mostly kerosene with a pretty smell. Expensive for
what it is. This works too but doesnt last long
Finally the previous writer paid nearly $300 for those small tools?
they saw them coming. Thed be a quarter of that from the tool suppliers
in the Birmingham jewellery quarter tool shops, and not the cheap
chinese copies.
what do other folks use to lube metal cutting saws?
Have a nice day.

Frosty sed:
Yeah, you can lop off great slabs of steel with an electric hack saw,
but if your cuts need to be precise or if you're engraving or bright
cutting, you don't want putrid globs of sheep-dip lube or corn-hole
oil all over a fine piece of platinum jewelry.
The nice thing about this polymer over conventional oils is that you
need only apply it ONE time, and it need only to coat the surface of
the cutting tool (know how think a surface is?)
So yeah, maybe if a person is thrashing about with crude, stone-age
tools, , any ol' oil would work just fine. Heck,
I'll betcha spit would work for you too.

You have a nice day too Tom.



Hang on a minuite, if im cutting off a piece of Grane ( thats swedish to
you) tool steel, i wouldnt want to use a jewellers piercing saw to do it.
That tool steel is the best for drop stamping dies and I happened to
aquire a 6ft length of it. thats where the 3in bar bit cane in my
previous post.
Cutting it off is just the start of a long process that finishes up
with some serious detail precision 3D die sinking.

Yeah, and so maybe then you'd want a cutting oil that's just a wee bit
better than those oils you mentioned above.

That will match any of your fine sawing in detail and skill. So dont
knock whats horses for courses.

That must be some of that fancy ferin' rhyming slang lingo I've read
about. But what's it mean? Any way, I'm not goin' on here about
whether you or I have better skills, I'm talkin' cutting oils. And the
stuff you mention above was probably the best one could hope for back
in the days of knights and dragons, but here in the technical vastness
of the 21st century we encourage our naves to try newfangled things
like lubricants made specifically for cutting metal, and not oils that
double as fluid to cook in.
YMMV