saw blade question

Hi group,
I have a question about the way jewelry saw blades are numbered. I have a
book that suggests using 05 or 06 size blades. I am looking at catalogs but
they have 5 or 5/0. Would 5/0 be the same as 05?
I will be making jump rings and eventually might cut SS sheet. Any opinions
on what sizes are good to buy? Does any place sell an assortment pack?
Thanks,
--
Connie Ryman
Cryman Studio

"C Ryman" - Would 5/0 be the same as 05? I will be making jump
rings and eventually might cut SS sheet.

I would get 6 doz. 3/0 saw blades, 3 doz. 8/0 and 4 doz. 1 saw
blades . The saw blades are listed from # 8 - the largest, to # 8/0
the smallest.
Also get some Bur-life or some bees wax as lubricant. 1 oz of either
is plenty.
Expect to pay $ 2.50 to $ 3.00 a doz for your sawblades. Expect to
break saw blades often untill you learn how to use a saw.

Get a good 3 to 4 in throat (depth of cut) saw frame and purchase
either a German made, or French made ( Samson - my favorite ) . Expect
to pay from $ 10.00 - $ 27.00 . Do not get cheep here...

Get a good light, a good chair, a bench with a V bench block and
some good music.
If you do not have a bench, a plywood sheet 1/2 to 3/4 thick and
18 in. by 36 will do nicely ( all measurements in inches ). Screw a 1
X 2 strip to the front of the plywood. Put felt pads on the bottom
where it will not scratch a good dinner table top . Mount one or two
swing arm lamps , which you can remove for storage . Screw or staple
the top of a apron ( 3 to 4 foot long ) to the front so that it will
hang over your lap and around your neck so as to catch small objects
you will otherwise loose . Trust me on this ...
The bench pin should point at the same level as your shirt pocket
top. A good removeable bench pin holder with a metal top for hammering
on has a replaceable wooden bench pin. That should cost about $ 12.00
..

Adjust your chair to fit. The adjustable task chair can be
purchased used for $ 10.00 - 20.00 . This will save you back pain and
is also worth the money. A good fishing tackle or small tool box to
hold everything in and you are ready.

These are basic tools and you can save money on some items, but
your hand tools should be of "Standard or Better" quality .

The Complete Metalsmith by Tim McCreight is the book I would
first pick. Price $ 15.00 . Where to buy = Rio Grande # 1-800-545-6566
Ask for their Tool catalog and also the Findings catalog. Good dealers
and Free catalogs .

This is a little more than you asked for, but a saw is no use
unless a bench pin and bench are used to brace your work.

ROBB

Unwanted CDs, CD-Rs, etc. can be a good source of material to practice
on. Not exactly like precious metals but good to get your technique down.
The blades go in the frame such that the 'pointy' part of the teeth
point towrds the handle(down). On small blades you may need to 'catch'
the teeth on some cloth to determine which way they point. Try to keep
the blade vertical and relax on the 'up' (non-cutting) stroke. When
turning sharp corners, relax all pressure, keep sawing, while slowly
turning the frame to the new direction.
The blade should be tight enough in the frame to sound somewhat
musical when plucked like a harp string. When finished for the day, lean
a little pressure on the handle while butting the top against your
bench, loosen the bottom (handle end) screw and release one end of the
blade until next time its needed. Reverse the procedure to reinstall
blade. Expect to break quite a few at first. Expect that cheap blades
may not saw straight. YOU must saw straight.

Pay attention to ROBB's post.

Carl
1 Lucky Texan


ROBB wrote:
"C Ryman" - Would 5/0 be the same as 05? I will be making jump
rings and eventually might cut SS sheet.

I would get 6 doz. 3/0 saw blades, 3 doz. 8/0 and 4 doz. 1 saw
blades . The saw blades are listed from # 8 - the largest, to # 8/0
the smallest.
Also get some Bur-life or some bees wax as lubricant. 1 oz of either
is plenty.
Expect to pay $ 2.50 to $ 3.00 a doz for your sawblades. Expect to
break saw blades often untill you learn how to use a saw.

Get a good 3 to 4 in throat (depth of cut) saw frame and purchase
either a German made, or French made ( Samson - my favorite ) . Expect
to pay from $ 10.00 - $ 27.00 . Do not get cheep here...

Get a good light, a good chair, a bench with a V bench block and
some good music.
If you do not have a bench, a plywood sheet 1/2 to 3/4 thick and
18 in. by 36 will do nicely ( all measurements in inches ). Screw a 1
X 2 strip to the front of the plywood. Put felt pads on the bottom
where it will not scratch a good dinner table top . Mount one or two
swing arm lamps , which you can remove for storage . Screw or staple
the top of a apron ( 3 to 4 foot long ) to the front so that it will
hang over your lap and around your neck so as to catch small objects
you will otherwise loose . Trust me on this ...
The bench pin should point at the same level as your shirt pocket
top. A good removeable bench pin holder with a metal top for hammering
on has a replaceable wooden bench pin. That should cost about $ 12.00
.

Adjust your chair to fit. The adjustable task chair can be
purchased used for $ 10.00 - 20.00 . This will save you back pain and
is also worth the money. A good fishing tackle or small tool box to
hold everything in and you are ready.

These are basic tools and you can save money on some items, but
your hand tools should be of "Standard or Better" quality .

The Complete Metalsmith by Tim McCreight is the book I would
first pick. Price $ 15.00 . Where to buy = Rio Grande # 1-800-545-6566
Ask for their Tool catalog and also the Findings catalog. Good dealers
and Free catalogs .

This is a little more than you asked for, but a saw is no use
unless a bench pin and bench are used to brace your work.

ROBB


--
to reply, change ( .not) to ( .net)

The blade should be tight enough in the frame to sound somewhat
musical when plucked like a harp string. When finished for the day, lean
a little pressure on the handle while butting the top against your
bench, loosen the bottom (handle end) screw and release one end of the
blade until next time its needed. Reverse the procedure to reinstall
blade. Expect to break quite a few at first. Expect that cheap blades
may not saw straight. YOU must saw straight.

When putting the blade in put the handle against your chest and the other
end against something and lean against it slightly to put tension on the blade.

Thanks for all the wonderful advice. I will save these messages so I can
reference back to them

--
Connie Ryman
Cryman Studio
www.eclecticbeadery.com

"C Ryman" wrote in message
...
Hi group,
I have a question about the way jewelry saw blades are numbered. I
have a
book that suggests using 05 or 06 size blades.

To me, 05 or 06 blades are normally quite thick. If it's a UK book
then it's possibly an error, because we use a single 5 or 6 or
whatever. I usually use 3/0'S for most work, which are very thin
(0.012" I think), but have been known to use 5/0's and 6/0's where an
intricate model had to be made. The higher the number (with a slash),
the thinner the blade is, and the higher the number (without a slash),
is usually a thicker blade.


I am looking at catalogs but
they have 5 or 5/0. Would 5/0 be the same as 05?

No, as above, when you get a number *without* the forward slash,
then it's a very much thicker and coarser blade.

I will be making jump rings and eventually might cut SS sheet. Any
opinions
on what sizes are good to buy? Does any place sell an assortment
pack?

I know of an assortment pack, but I really wouldn't bother if the
quality of the blades will be compromised for serious work. The pack
that I use for a back-up when running out of quality blades is from a
hardware shop local to me, and to be honest, they're crap, but have
got me out of a few tight spots now and again. They wander all over
the place. USE quality blades like Vallorbe.

For jump rings, use the thinnest you can, i.e. 3/0's to 5/0's are
fine. For cutting sheet, (if a pattern), use 3/0's or smaller, or, if
just a straight line, (i.e. you have 2mm sheet, but you want a piece
of that sheet to roll down to a thinner size), then use 2/0's or
bigger - much faster.

Hope that helps.

-SP-


Thanks,
--
Connie Ryman
Cryman Studio

-SP- wrote:
... I usually use 3/0'S for most work, which are very thin
(0.012" I think),

Is there a reference that gives the thicknesses (kerf widths) of the various
sizes of blade?



--


If you try to 'reply' to me without fixing the dot, your reply
will go into a 'special' mailbox reserved for spam. See below.


--
Carl West http://carl.west.home.comcast.net

change the 'DOT' to '.' to email me

As always, put on rubber gloves, wear eye protection, stand on an electrically
insulating mat, dress in old clothes, avoid electrical shock by working with one
hand in your pocket, and do it outdoors in a well ventilated area. Lastly, to
avoid personal injury, have it done professionally.
- http://www.homemetalshopclub.org

Hi Carl,

Is there a reference that gives the thicknesses (kerf widths) of the various sizes of blade?

Try Tim McCreight's, 'The Complete Metalsmith' Page 183 in my old
version lists saw blade thickness & depth along with the minimum size
drill hole needed if piercing is to be done.

Dave