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#1
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Wooden Frame for Panel
Hi Folks!
I've just made a wooden frame for a 16" x 20" leaded panel. It's made with 1" thick by 2" wide poplar, has an extra deep rabbet to accommodate the panel and has a 1/4" strip to secure it in place. The corners are mitered and the pieces were assembled with carpenter's glue and one heavy staple in each corner. A woodworker friend thinks it won't be strong enough to hold the panel. A guy from the SG shop thinks it is strong enough. Does anybody know from experience whether the method of assembly is strong for a panel this size? Would it also be good for panels up to 20" x 24"? Thanks for your help, Suzan |
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#2
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I'd say glue and one staple are not enough, glass is very heavy and gravity
is not your friend. This reminds me of a recent accident at a glass show I participated in. Someone had a stained glass panel in a wood frame. I believe they used eye hooks in the top side of the frame which split the wood (anyway, the wood frame split somehow). Unfortunately, underneath the hanging panel was a glass sculpture and an art glass table. All 3 were damaged and the show sponsor representative was looking them over during the opening reception. I don't know if all three artists were reimbursed, but I bet they were pretty unhappy about the damage. Once, I had to call an artist at the beginning of a show set up and say "you used the wrong type of glue, you piece is falling apart, get over here". So it just makes sense to make your art as secure and tough as possible. Good Luck, -- Connie Ryman Cryman Studio www.eclecticbeadery.com "Moonraker" wrote in message . .. I think you'll probably find the panel could use some extra strength. I'd suggest that you pre-drill and then add a single screw into each corner, with the threads of the screw oriented in a vertical position when the panel is hanging. You'll be drilling through the thickness of the poplar, parallel with the width and into the end grain of the matching piece of that corner. I don't think a staple is adequate mechanical fastening, and who knows how long the glue will hold if it is subjected to heat/cold/moisture, etc. "Suzan" wrote in message ble.rogers.com... Hi Folks! I've just made a wooden frame for a 16" x 20" leaded panel. It's made with 1" thick by 2" wide poplar, has an extra deep rabbet to accommodate the panel and has a 1/4" strip to secure it in place. The corners are mitered and the pieces were assembled with carpenter's glue and one heavy staple in each corner. A woodworker friend thinks it won't be strong enough to hold the panel. A guy from the SG shop thinks it is strong enough. Does anybody know from experience whether the method of assembly is strong for a panel this size? Would it also be good for panels up to 20" x 24"? Thanks for your help, Suzan |
#3
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If the panel were glued into the frame with silicone the frame would be strong
enough. the panel would hold the frame together. If the panel is not glued to the frame the frame may not be strong enough. Carpenter's glue is very strong when the pieces to be glued have grains that are within 45 degrees of being parallel. Carpenter's glue won't last when end grained glued as in a mitered corner. What you've got is a frame that may eventually be held together only by the staples. If you had used a frame vise and brads or finish nails on the corners they might have been strong enough. You could do that now and I think it would be strong enough. I am a carpenter. John Bassett |
#4
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Hi John,
Since your a carpenter maybe you can answer this question for me. What is the name of the wavy pieces of metal that are hammered into to the mitered edges? I guess they are used instead of staples. Are they any good or do they weaken the wood and cause splitting later? Thanks -- Connie Ryman Cryman Studio www.eclecticbeadery.com "Wolfebas" wrote in message ... If the panel were glued into the frame with silicone the frame would be strong enough. the panel would hold the frame together. If the panel is not glued to the frame the frame may not be strong enough. Carpenter's glue is very strong when the pieces to be glued have grains that are within 45 degrees of being parallel. Carpenter's glue won't last when end grained glued as in a mitered corner. What you've got is a frame that may eventually be held together only by the staples. If you had used a frame vise and brads or finish nails on the corners they might have been strong enough. You could do that now and I think it would be strong enough. I am a carpenter. John Bassett |
#5
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I was just looking at an 12x17 oak frame I have for SG but have not used
yet. It does not have any hanging apparatus. Any advice on what to use and the best placement for it. TIA -- Connie Ryman Cryman Studio www.eclecticbeadery.com |
#6
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"C Ryman" wrote in message ... I was just looking at an 12x17 oak frame I have for SG but have not used yet. It does not have any hanging apparatus. Any advice on what to use and the best placement for it. TIA -- Connie Ryman Cryman Studio www.eclecticbeadery.com I've used these before...they seem to work OK. http://www.delphiglass.com/index.cfm...cat=1559&viewc at=1559 |
#7
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I was just looking at an 12x17 oak frame I have for SG but have not used yet. It does not have any hanging apparatus. Any advice on what to use and the best placement for it. TIA -- Connie Ryman Cryman Studio www.eclecticbeadery.com I've used these before...they seem to work OK. http://www.delphiglass.com/index.cfm...cat=1559&viewc at=1559 There seems to be a problem with the link, care to give a description? Is 1559 an item #? |
#8
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I don't know why the link didn't work....the item # is 8841. Enter this
number in the search window at Delphi's site. "Javahut" wrote in message ... I was just looking at an 12x17 oak frame I have for SG but have not used yet. It does not have any hanging apparatus. Any advice on what to use and the best placement for it. TIA -- Connie Ryman Cryman Studio www.eclecticbeadery.com I've used these before...they seem to work OK. http://www.delphiglass.com/index.cfm...cat=1559&viewc at=1559 There seems to be a problem with the link, care to give a description? Is 1559 an item #? |
#9
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"Andy T." wrote in message om... the best way I have found over the years is to cut a 3/4" x 3/8" dado in the wood and save the strip that comes from that. then cut and miter the piece of wood to the sizes you need. Use a 90 degree wood clam and clamp one of the corners and predrill a hole. Glue and screw the corner. Do the same for the remaining 3 corners. Trim the wood that came out of the dados to slightly less than 1/4" thick. Cut to length and miter those to fit into the back of the frame. Set your pane into the frame and then either hot glue the pieces of wood in or use a pin nailer. BTW...if you slightly off set the one piece of wood that the screw goes into, when you tighten the screw, the wood will "pull" together to make a very nice fit. Of course, you'll want to sand and finish the frame before installing your glass. Another really nice joint is a "feather" joint. Do a search into some of the woodworking sites and you'll find it. Good luck! Andy http://www.neoglassic.com put a spline in each corner and glue it in. "Suzan" wrote in message able.rogers.com... Hi Folks! I've just made a wooden frame for a 16" x 20" leaded panel. It's made with 1" thick by 2" wide poplar, has an extra deep rabbet to accommodate the panel and has a 1/4" strip to secure it in place. The corners are mitered and the pieces were assembled with carpenter's glue and one heavy staple in each corner. A woodworker friend thinks it won't be strong enough to hold the panel. A guy from the SG shop thinks it is strong enough. Does anybody know from experience whether the method of assembly is strong for a panel this size? Would it also be good for panels up to 20" x 24"? Thanks for your help, Suzan |
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