If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. |
|
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
Dorset crosswheel button instructions
Found this on the net if anyone is interested and wants to try it out. This
says to make them with Linen thread, but we make them out of yarn, adding beads to the spokes etc..Bit of history then how to do them...Cheers...Cher Here is a variation in the directions: From The Lady's Guide to Plain Sewing, Book II: The buttons usually used for shirts and personal linen were thread buttons. A well organized cottage industry, begun in 1622, in Dorset, England, gave rise to the name of numerous styles, including the Dorset Crosswheel. First bone discs then metal rings were used to make many of the buttons. They should be made without a break in the ring, such as those used for Roman shades and curtains. Those of 3/8 inch inside diameter are a good size. To make a dorset crosswheel button, a linen thread of 40/2 or a similar size, usually bleached, is used to stitch the buttons. You will need a piece at least two yards long for each button. The first step is called casting: using a small, blunt needle, make buttonhole stitches all around the ring, spacing the stitches very closely, and completely covering the ring. The knots, or pearls, of the stitches, will lay to the outside of the ring. The second step is called slicking: twist the buttonhole stitches around the ring, so that the knots, or pearls, are on the inside of the ring. Use the needle to catch some of the pearls, and begin the twisting with a lever like action. After the twisting is started, it is usually quite easy to finish the slicking with the fingers. The third step is called laying: holding the ring firmly with the fingers of one hand, and the thread pulled taunt by the other, wrap the thread around the ring, making "spokes". Usually, tweleve spokes are made. With your imagination, divide the ring like the numbers on a clock. The thread must be held taunt to prevent the spokes from loosening and falling off the ring. The centers will not cross exactly at this stage. Complete this step by securing the threads to the center with a couple of crosses stitches, catching all of the spokes. The first crossd stitches can be adjusted to the center using the needle to push the stitches. Cross the centers again. Check to be sure the crossed stitches are in the middle of the ring. This is very important! The fourth step is called rounding: using the needle, weave around from spoke to spoke, taking a stitch under and back over each spoke (like a backstitch). Work from the center outward, fillin in the ring as closely as possible. Keeo your work even and neat. Finish the button by using a sharp needle to run the remaining thread tail through the back of the rounding and exit at the center back of the button. The tail may be left to use to set on the button, or may be trimmed off. End text. |
Ads |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
Dorset crosswheel button instructions
That is really interesting. I wish I had more time! I have saved these
instructions and the page you sent earlier, and maybe I'll get to try them next year. Katherine spinninglilac wrote: Found this on the net if anyone is interested and wants to try it out. This says to make them with Linen thread, but we make them out of yarn, adding beads to the spokes etc..Bit of history then how to do them...Cheers...Cher Here is a variation in the directions: From The Lady's Guide to Plain Sewing, Book II: The buttons usually used for shirts and personal linen were thread buttons. A well organized cottage industry, begun in 1622, in Dorset, England, gave rise to the name of numerous styles, including the Dorset Crosswheel. First bone discs then metal rings were used to make many of the buttons. They should be made without a break in the ring, such as those used for Roman shades and curtains. Those of 3/8 inch inside diameter are a good size. To make a dorset crosswheel button, a linen thread of 40/2 or a similar size, usually bleached, is used to stitch the buttons. You will need a piece at least two yards long for each button. The first step is called casting: using a small, blunt needle, make buttonhole stitches all around the ring, spacing the stitches very closely, and completely covering the ring. The knots, or pearls, of the stitches, will lay to the outside of the ring. The second step is called slicking: twist the buttonhole stitches around the ring, so that the knots, or pearls, are on the inside of the ring. Use the needle to catch some of the pearls, and begin the twisting with a lever like action. After the twisting is started, it is usually quite easy to finish the slicking with the fingers. The third step is called laying: holding the ring firmly with the fingers of one hand, and the thread pulled taunt by the other, wrap the thread around the ring, making "spokes". Usually, tweleve spokes are made. With your imagination, divide the ring like the numbers on a clock. The thread must be held taunt to prevent the spokes from loosening and falling off the ring. The centers will not cross exactly at this stage. Complete this step by securing the threads to the center with a couple of crosses stitches, catching all of the spokes. The first crossd stitches can be adjusted to the center using the needle to push the stitches. Cross the centers again. Check to be sure the crossed stitches are in the middle of the ring. This is very important! The fourth step is called rounding: using the needle, weave around from spoke to spoke, taking a stitch under and back over each spoke (like a backstitch). Work from the center outward, fillin in the ring as closely as possible. Keeo your work even and neat. Finish the button by using a sharp needle to run the remaining thread tail through the back of the rounding and exit at the center back of the button. The tail may be left to use to set on the button, or may be trimmed off. End text. |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
Dorset crosswheel button instructions
Grabbed and saved for another time. Thank you, Cher! )
Gem "spinninglilac" wrote in message ... Found this on the net if anyone is interested and wants to try it out. This says to make them with Linen thread, but we make them out of yarn, adding beads to the spokes etc..Bit of history then how to do them...Cheers...Cher Here is a variation in the directions: From The Lady's Guide to Plain Sewing, Book II: The buttons usually used for shirts and personal linen were thread buttons. A well organized cottage industry, begun in 1622, in Dorset, England, gave rise to the name of numerous styles, including the Dorset Crosswheel. First bone discs then metal rings were used to make many of the buttons. They should be made without a break in the ring, such as those used for Roman shades and curtains. Those of 3/8 inch inside diameter are a good size. To make a dorset crosswheel button, a linen thread of 40/2 or a similar size, usually bleached, is used to stitch the buttons. You will need a piece at least two yards long for each button. The first step is called casting: using a small, blunt needle, make buttonhole stitches all around the ring, spacing the stitches very closely, and completely covering the ring. The knots, or pearls, of the stitches, will lay to the outside of the ring. The second step is called slicking: twist the buttonhole stitches around the ring, so that the knots, or pearls, are on the inside of the ring. Use the needle to catch some of the pearls, and begin the twisting with a lever like action. After the twisting is started, it is usually quite easy to finish the slicking with the fingers. The third step is called laying: holding the ring firmly with the fingers of one hand, and the thread pulled taunt by the other, wrap the thread around the ring, making "spokes". Usually, tweleve spokes are made. With your imagination, divide the ring like the numbers on a clock. The thread must be held taunt to prevent the spokes from loosening and falling off the ring. The centers will not cross exactly at this stage. Complete this step by securing the threads to the center with a couple of crosses stitches, catching all of the spokes. The first crossd stitches can be adjusted to the center using the needle to push the stitches. Cross the centers again. Check to be sure the crossed stitches are in the middle of the ring. This is very important! The fourth step is called rounding: using the needle, weave around from spoke to spoke, taking a stitch under and back over each spoke (like a backstitch). Work from the center outward, fillin in the ring as closely as possible. Keeo your work even and neat. Finish the button by using a sharp needle to run the remaining thread tail through the back of the rounding and exit at the center back of the button. The tail may be left to use to set on the button, or may be trimmed off. End text. |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
Dorset crosswheel button instructions
You will need time on your hands if you try them out Katherine, They can be
fiddly when you start to do them, As I rarely use them as buttons but for decorations I use any size ring..lol Wool Silk whatever..Cheers....Cher "Katherine" wrote in message ... That is really interesting. I wish I had more time! I have saved these instructions and the page you sent earlier, and maybe I'll get to try them next year. Katherine spinninglilac wrote: Found this on the net if anyone is interested and wants to try it out. This says to make them with Linen thread, but we make them out of yarn, adding beads to the spokes etc..Bit of history then how to do them...Cheers...Cher Here is a variation in the directions: From The Lady's Guide to Plain Sewing, Book II: The buttons usually used for shirts and personal linen were thread buttons. A well organized cottage industry, begun in 1622, in Dorset, England, gave rise to the name of numerous styles, including the Dorset Crosswheel. First bone discs then metal rings were used to make many of the buttons. They should be made without a break in the ring, such as those used for Roman shades and curtains. Those of 3/8 inch inside diameter are a good size. To make a dorset crosswheel button, a linen thread of 40/2 or a similar size, usually bleached, is used to stitch the buttons. You will need a piece at least two yards long for each button. The first step is called casting: using a small, blunt needle, make buttonhole stitches all around the ring, spacing the stitches very closely, and completely covering the ring. The knots, or pearls, of the stitches, will lay to the outside of the ring. The second step is called slicking: twist the buttonhole stitches around the ring, so that the knots, or pearls, are on the inside of the ring. Use the needle to catch some of the pearls, and begin the twisting with a lever like action. After the twisting is started, it is usually quite easy to finish the slicking with the fingers. The third step is called laying: holding the ring firmly with the fingers of one hand, and the thread pulled taunt by the other, wrap the thread around the ring, making "spokes". Usually, tweleve spokes are made. With your imagination, divide the ring like the numbers on a clock. The thread must be held taunt to prevent the spokes from loosening and falling off the ring. The centers will not cross exactly at this stage. Complete this step by securing the threads to the center with a couple of crosses stitches, catching all of the spokes. The first crossd stitches can be adjusted to the center using the needle to push the stitches. Cross the centers again. Check to be sure the crossed stitches are in the middle of the ring. This is very important! The fourth step is called rounding: using the needle, weave around from spoke to spoke, taking a stitch under and back over each spoke (like a backstitch). Work from the center outward, fillin in the ring as closely as possible. Keeo your work even and neat. Finish the button by using a sharp needle to run the remaining thread tail through the back of the rounding and exit at the center back of the button. The tail may be left to use to set on the button, or may be trimmed off. End text. |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
Dorset crosswheel button instructions
As I said to Katherine, Gems, they are somewhat fiddly to do for the first
time. So you need some time to start going with them. Get larger rings and work with yarn to start with just to get the idea. Cheers.....Cher "MRH" mthecarpenterATxcelcoDOTonDOTca wrote in message ... Grabbed and saved for another time. Thank you, Cher! ) Gem "spinninglilac" wrote in message ... Found this on the net if anyone is interested and wants to try it out. This says to make them with Linen thread, but we make them out of yarn, adding beads to the spokes etc..Bit of history then how to do them...Cheers...Cher Here is a variation in the directions: From The Lady's Guide to Plain Sewing, Book II: The buttons usually used for shirts and personal linen were thread buttons. A well organized cottage industry, begun in 1622, in Dorset, England, gave rise to the name of numerous styles, including the Dorset Crosswheel. First bone discs then metal rings were used to make many of the buttons. They should be made without a break in the ring, such as those used for Roman shades and curtains. Those of 3/8 inch inside diameter are a good size. To make a dorset crosswheel button, a linen thread of 40/2 or a similar size, usually bleached, is used to stitch the buttons. You will need a piece at least two yards long for each button. The first step is called casting: using a small, blunt needle, make buttonhole stitches all around the ring, spacing the stitches very closely, and completely covering the ring. The knots, or pearls, of the stitches, will lay to the outside of the ring. The second step is called slicking: twist the buttonhole stitches around the ring, so that the knots, or pearls, are on the inside of the ring. Use the needle to catch some of the pearls, and begin the twisting with a lever like action. After the twisting is started, it is usually quite easy to finish the slicking with the fingers. The third step is called laying: holding the ring firmly with the fingers of one hand, and the thread pulled taunt by the other, wrap the thread around the ring, making "spokes". Usually, tweleve spokes are made. With your imagination, divide the ring like the numbers on a clock. The thread must be held taunt to prevent the spokes from loosening and falling off the ring. The centers will not cross exactly at this stage. Complete this step by securing the threads to the center with a couple of crosses stitches, catching all of the spokes. The first crossd stitches can be adjusted to the center using the needle to push the stitches. Cross the centers again. Check to be sure the crossed stitches are in the middle of the ring. This is very important! The fourth step is called rounding: using the needle, weave around from spoke to spoke, taking a stitch under and back over each spoke (like a backstitch). Work from the center outward, fillin in the ring as closely as possible. Keeo your work even and neat. Finish the button by using a sharp needle to run the remaining thread tail through the back of the rounding and exit at the center back of the button. The tail may be left to use to set on the button, or may be trimmed off. End text. |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
Dorset crosswheel button instructions
They remind me of dream catchers, in concept at least.
Katherine spinninglilac wrote: You will need time on your hands if you try them out Katherine, They can be fiddly when you start to do them, As I rarely use them as buttons but for decorations I use any size ring..lol Wool Silk whatever..Cheers....Cher "Katherine" wrote in message ... That is really interesting. I wish I had more time! I have saved these instructions and the page you sent earlier, and maybe I'll get to try them next year. Katherine spinninglilac wrote: Found this on the net if anyone is interested and wants to try it out. This says to make them with Linen thread, but we make them out of yarn, adding beads to the spokes etc..Bit of history then how to do them...Cheers...Cher Here is a variation in the directions: From The Lady's Guide to Plain Sewing, Book II: The buttons usually used for shirts and personal linen were thread buttons. A well organized cottage industry, begun in 1622, in Dorset, England, gave rise to the name of numerous styles, including the Dorset Crosswheel. First bone discs then metal rings were used to make many of the buttons. They should be made without a break in the ring, such as those used for Roman shades and curtains. Those of 3/8 inch inside diameter are a good size. To make a dorset crosswheel button, a linen thread of 40/2 or a similar size, usually bleached, is used to stitch the buttons. You will need a piece at least two yards long for each button. The first step is called casting: using a small, blunt needle, make buttonhole stitches all around the ring, spacing the stitches very closely, and completely covering the ring. The knots, or pearls, of the stitches, will lay to the outside of the ring. The second step is called slicking: twist the buttonhole stitches around the ring, so that the knots, or pearls, are on the inside of the ring. Use the needle to catch some of the pearls, and begin the twisting with a lever like action. After the twisting is started, it is usually quite easy to finish the slicking with the fingers. The third step is called laying: holding the ring firmly with the fingers of one hand, and the thread pulled taunt by the other, wrap the thread around the ring, making "spokes". Usually, tweleve spokes are made. With your imagination, divide the ring like the numbers on a clock. The thread must be held taunt to prevent the spokes from loosening and falling off the ring. The centers will not cross exactly at this stage. Complete this step by securing the threads to the center with a couple of crosses stitches, catching all of the spokes. The first crossd stitches can be adjusted to the center using the needle to push the stitches. Cross the centers again. Check to be sure the crossed stitches are in the middle of the ring. This is very important! The fourth step is called rounding: using the needle, weave around from spoke to spoke, taking a stitch under and back over each spoke (like a backstitch). Work from the center outward, fillin in the ring as closely as possible. Keeo your work even and neat. Finish the button by using a sharp needle to run the remaining thread tail through the back of the rounding and exit at the center back of the button. The tail may be left to use to set on the button, or may be trimmed off. End text. |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
Dorset crosswheel button instructions
Yes I think they do me a little bit, but the structure of the spokes are
alot stronger than the thin cotton threads used to make the net of the d/catcher.. Cheers....Cher "Katherine" wrote in message ... They remind me of dream catchers, in concept at least. Katherine spinninglilac wrote: You will need time on your hands if you try them out Katherine, They can be fiddly when you start to do them, As I rarely use them as buttons but for decorations I use any size ring..lol Wool Silk whatever..Cheers....Cher "Katherine" wrote in message ... That is really interesting. I wish I had more time! I have saved these instructions and the page you sent earlier, and maybe I'll get to try them next year. Katherine spinninglilac wrote: Found this on the net if anyone is interested and wants to try it out. This says to make them with Linen thread, but we make them out of yarn, adding beads to the spokes etc..Bit of history then how to do them...Cheers...Cher Here is a variation in the directions: From The Lady's Guide to Plain Sewing, Book II: The buttons usually used for shirts and personal linen were thread buttons. A well organized cottage industry, begun in 1622, in Dorset, England, gave rise to the name of numerous styles, including the Dorset Crosswheel. First bone discs then metal rings were used to make many of the buttons. They should be made without a break in the ring, such as those used for Roman shades and curtains. Those of 3/8 inch inside diameter are a good size. To make a dorset crosswheel button, a linen thread of 40/2 or a similar size, usually bleached, is used to stitch the buttons. You will need a piece at least two yards long for each button. The first step is called casting: using a small, blunt needle, make buttonhole stitches all around the ring, spacing the stitches very closely, and completely covering the ring. The knots, or pearls, of the stitches, will lay to the outside of the ring. The second step is called slicking: twist the buttonhole stitches around the ring, so that the knots, or pearls, are on the inside of the ring. Use the needle to catch some of the pearls, and begin the twisting with a lever like action. After the twisting is started, it is usually quite easy to finish the slicking with the fingers. The third step is called laying: holding the ring firmly with the fingers of one hand, and the thread pulled taunt by the other, wrap the thread around the ring, making "spokes". Usually, tweleve spokes are made. With your imagination, divide the ring like the numbers on a clock. The thread must be held taunt to prevent the spokes from loosening and falling off the ring. The centers will not cross exactly at this stage. Complete this step by securing the threads to the center with a couple of crosses stitches, catching all of the spokes. The first crossd stitches can be adjusted to the center using the needle to push the stitches. Cross the centers again. Check to be sure the crossed stitches are in the middle of the ring. This is very important! The fourth step is called rounding: using the needle, weave around from spoke to spoke, taking a stitch under and back over each spoke (like a backstitch). Work from the center outward, fillin in the ring as closely as possible. Keeo your work even and neat. Finish the button by using a sharp needle to run the remaining thread tail through the back of the rounding and exit at the center back of the button. The tail may be left to use to set on the button, or may be trimmed off. End text. |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
Cher, thanks I received the booklet:
Cher,
Thank you so very much for the Learn to Knit booklet. Strange though, there was no little tool that you spoke of. I am reading it now. Thanks again, Susie |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
Cher, thanks I received the booklet:
Somewhere on the card I said I couldn't locate the tool, but will keep
trying....lol We had a clear up here over the last couple of months, taking all my books and tins upstairs to my workroom...I've looked where I was absolutely sure they were, but they weren't....but as soon as I locate it I will send it to you...sorry you didn't get it in this package, but I wanted you to have the booklet more than anything and not wait til I found the tool. It's only a little latch hook thingy used for picking up stitches on machine knitting, but they work really well for hand knitting as well, and I have quite a number of them.. So you will get one. Gem must be receiving her present soon then as this was sent at the same time.# Enjoy you booklet......hugz....Cher "Susie" wrote in message ... Cher, Thank you so very much for the Learn to Knit booklet. Strange though, there was no little tool that you spoke of. I am reading it now. Thanks again, Susie |
#10
|
|||
|
|||
Cher, thanks I received the booklet:
Cher,
Oh gosh, I read that sentence and thought it said something about you couldn't find the book but it says hook........lol. That's ok. Don't worry about it. I got a crochet hook for 'trying' to fix stuff and might get a few smaller sizes. I have another class tomorrow. I bet she suggests a sweater all ready. OH NO. LOL. Thanks again, Susie Somewhere on the card I said I couldn't locate the tool, but will keep trying....lol ......................... Enjoy you booklet......hugz....Cher |
|
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
BOUTIQUE HAIR BOW INSTRUCTIONS Free Offray Ribbons & Clips | www.hairbowinstructions.net | Marketplace | 0 | August 31st 04 10:40 PM |
BOUTIQUE HAIR BOW INSTRUCTIONS - HAIRBOWS FREE Ribbons & Clippies! | www.hairbowinstructions.net | Sewing | 0 | August 31st 04 10:38 PM |
Pre-AD and Quick Story: Who's got the Button? | lgreene | Polymer Clay | 0 | August 7th 04 11:17 AM |
Button, button | Marisa Cappetta | Beads | 25 | February 21st 04 04:51 AM |
Pattern instructions question | Karen in MN | Yarn | 2 | February 9th 04 02:54 AM |