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#1
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Questions on Ingredients
Well just posting has gotten me to the point of ordering ingredients. Now
I'm stuck on which ones. Can anyone tell my why one over the other? Is the more expensive necessarily the better buy (or visa versa)? whiting Snocal 40 whiting Vicron 2511 Wollastonite W10 200M Wollastonite W20 352M Rutile Light Ceramic Rutile Dark Milled Rutile Grandular Neph Syn 270M Minex3 Neph Syn 400M Minex4 Potash Custer Potash G-200 Bentonite Western 200M Bentonite Western 325M Bentonite B Betonite 149 *Flint SIL-CO-SIL 75 (200M) Flint SIL-CO-SIL 52 (325M) Flint SIL-CO-SIL 40 (400M) * is this what I'm to use for Silica in the MC6G book? |
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#2
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On Fri, 16 Jul 2004 06:21:07 GMT, "dkat" wrote:
Well just posting has gotten me to the point of ordering ingredients. Now I'm stuck on which ones. Can anyone tell my why one over the other? Is the more expensive necessarily the better buy (or visa versa)? whiting Snocal 40 whiting Vicron 2511 Wollastonite W10 200M Wollastonite W20 352M Rutile Light Ceramic Rutile Dark Milled Rutile Grandular Neph Syn 270M Minex3 Neph Syn 400M Minex4 Potash Custer Potash G-200 Bentonite Western 200M Bentonite Western 325M Bentonite B Betonite 149 *Flint SIL-CO-SIL 75 (200M) Flint SIL-CO-SIL 52 (325M) Flint SIL-CO-SIL 40 (400M) * is this what I'm to use for Silica in the MC6G book? First, flint is indeed the form of silica most folks use. Higher mesh numbers (xxxM) indicate finer powders; they have been passed through a mesh with that many threads or wires per inch. Finer powders make glazes that will melt together faster, but I don't really have any experience comparing differences betweeen (say) 325M and 400M... I'd guess this would make no difference to most uses. I tend to mentally divide things into "coarse" and "fine" at around 100M, and wouldn't hesitate to use anything over 200M in a glaze. Prices may differ, so I'd go with what gets the job done most economically. And you might want to get some Gillespie Borate (or some other GB substitute) for those times when you need to get a low-temperature melt and low expansion. There are lots of recipes that call for this (or an "equivalent" frit), so I wouldn't rule it out just yet. Just my $0.02 worth... Bob Masta dqatechATdaqartaDOTcom D A Q A R T A Data AcQuisition And Real-Time Analysis www.daqarta.com |
#3
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"dkat" wrote in message ... Well just posting has gotten me to the point of ordering ingredients. Now I'm stuck on which ones. Can anyone tell my why one over the other? Is the more expensive necessarily the better buy (or visa versa)? whiting Snocal 40 whiting Vicron 2511 Wollastonite W10 200M Wollastonite W20 352M Rutile Light Ceramic Rutile Dark Milled Rutile Grandular Neph Syn 270M Minex3 Neph Syn 400M Minex4 Potash Custer Potash G-200 Bentonite Western 200M Bentonite Western 325M Bentonite B Betonite 149 *Flint SIL-CO-SIL 75 (200M) Flint SIL-CO-SIL 52 (325M) Flint SIL-CO-SIL 40 (400M) * is this what I'm to use for Silica in the MC6G book? Dkat: Bob has already replied on mesh sizes, so I would add that you will get different results from the light rutile, and the rutile granular. You should have both. If a "recipe" doesn't specify, use the light rutile. As far as the feldspars, Custer and G-200. Again, you should have both, and some K4 as well, since different glazes call for different types of 'spar. Personally, I always go with the finest grain I can get. Easier to mix, stays in suspension better. If the price is not that different, that is, since I can always grind it down finer myself and re-sieve it. Best, Wayne Seidl Key West, Florida, USA North America, Terra Latitude 81.45W, Longitude 24.33N Elevation 3.1 feet (1m) |
#4
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Thank you. I was going to get 3195 and 3134 Frits - will those do? And
which is the Rutile you would use for glazes? This is my current list that I'm trying to whittle it down if you care - G200 Feldspar 12 Custer Feldspar 15 Ferro Frit 3134 50 Ferro Frit 3195 62 Wollastonite 12 Whiting 12 Nepheline Syenite12 OM-4 Ball Clay EPK 12 Silica Talc 9 Spanish Red Iron Oxide 30 Rutile Green Chrome Ox Tin Oxide Titanium Dioxide "Bob Masta" wrote in message ... On Fri, 16 Jul 2004 06:21:07 GMT, "dkat" wrote: First, flint is indeed the form of silica most folks use. Higher mesh numbers (xxxM) indicate finer powders; they have been passed through a mesh with that many threads or wires per inch. Finer powders make glazes that will melt together faster, but I don't really have any experience comparing differences betweeen (say) 325M and 400M... I'd guess this would make no difference to most uses. I tend to mentally divide things into "coarse" and "fine" at around 100M, and wouldn't hesitate to use anything over 200M in a glaze. Prices may differ, so I'd go with what gets the job done most economically. And you might want to get some Gillespie Borate (or some other GB substitute) for those times when you need to get a low-temperature melt and low expansion. There are lots of recipes that call for this (or an "equivalent" frit), so I wouldn't rule it out just yet. Just my $0.02 worth... Bob Masta dqatechATdaqartaDOTcom D A Q A R T A Data AcQuisition And Real-Time Analysis www.daqarta.com |
#5
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Thank you - scratch the rutile question just posted.... Beginning to feel a
bit more confident (I was fearless until I had kids....) "wayneinkeywest" wrote in message ... Dkat: Bob has already replied on mesh sizes, so I would add that you will get different results from the light rutile, and the rutile granular. You should have both. If a "recipe" doesn't specify, use the light rutile. As far as the feldspars, Custer and G-200. Again, you should have both, and some K4 as well, since different glazes call for different types of 'spar. Personally, I always go with the finest grain I can get. Easier to mix, stays in suspension better. If the price is not that different, that is, since I can always grind it down finer myself and re-sieve it. Best, Wayne Seidl Key West, Florida, USA North America, Terra Latitude 81.45W, Longitude 24.33N Elevation 3.1 feet (1m) |
#6
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Thank you - scratch the rutile question just posted.... Beginning to feel a bit more confident (I was fearless until I had kids....) -- Think of glaze making as a cake recipe. Either it works, rises fabulously, and your guests (peers and customers) all "Oooh" and "Aaaahhh" over it, - - or it falls flat and the dog gets it WG (I'm still feeding the dog, who is now too fat to walk :) Have fun! Wayne Seidl Key West, Florida, USA North America, Terra Latitude 81.45W, Longitude 24.33N Elevation 3.1 feet (1m) |
#7
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I tend you use ceramic grade rutile which is darker than light rutile and use
that unless light is specified. As far as the whiting goes, aske your supplier what the difference is. I know with some wollastonites for instance, there is a bit of iron, so you might want to find whichever whiting or wollastonite is purer. Although Custer and G200 can usually be used interchangeable, Custer has a bit more silica which can help prevent crazing if your recipe is on the border as far of expansion is concerned. If you know how to reformulate a recipe, with or without software, it's easy enough to reformulate it for a different spar; but in most cases, either one would have a good chance of working. The frits aren't interchangeable really, because although thy all have boron, the other ingredients vary. 3195 has more alumina in it for instance and I use that if I want a high alumina recipe and don't want too much clay in the recipe. You get a bit more boron for the money in 3195 which is why I often use it, but I make sure it fits in on a molecular level with my recipe. If you're working at cone 6 I would not advise getting your list of materials too small. You can do without wollastonite and reformulate the recipe for silica and whiting which is what wollastonite is composed of; but you'll have to back engineer the recipe. For cone 6, minimum materials list, I would advise Frit 3134 Neph sy F4 soda spar Custer epk OM4 ball clay whiting talc dolomite silica - 200 mesh spodumene zinc oxide bentonite Zircopax or Superpax Tin Oxide and your basic coloring oxides With these ingredients you can formulate alkaline glazes, calcium or alumina matts, etc. These are also the ingredients you would most commonly find in cone 6 recipes. If you want to extend the list, you can also get some of these to play around with: wollastnite barium carbonate strontium carbonate Lithium carbonate Gillespie Borate or Boraq (Gerstley substitutes) Volcanic ash Frit 3124 Frit 3195 Regards, June http://www.angelfire.com/art2/shambhalapottery/ |
#8
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have had our dog on a diet after they made fun of her at the vets. She
is much thinner, more active and BOY does she ADORE me when I'm in the kitchen! "wayneinkeywest" wrote in message . .. Thank you - scratch the rutile question just posted.... Beginning to feel a bit more confident (I was fearless until I had kids....) -- Think of glaze making as a cake recipe. Either it works, rises fabulously, and your guests (peers and customers) all "Oooh" and "Aaaahhh" over it, - - or it falls flat and the dog gets it WG (I'm still feeding the dog, who is now too fat to walk :) Have fun! Wayne Seidl Key West, Florida, USA North America, Terra Latitude 81.45W, Longitude 24.33N Elevation 3.1 feet (1m) |
#9
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Thank you. I will attempt to keep all of this in mind. Given that I am
working out of half of my basement I really am limited both in space and time. I would like to find 2 basic base glazes (glossy and matt) that I can create at most 6 glazes from. I know what glaze look I like. Also I am old enough and have been with my toes in the water long enough that I doubt I will change (that is after almost 3 decades I find that I always gravitate to the same 3 or 4 glazes). Gold-cream breaking rust (matt or glossy breaking matt) Glossy Sea green (breaking rust on an iron body and not on a white body); Randy's Red (without the GB) Glossy Opal blue If I had any ability to paint, I would want a matt white.... "ShantiP1" wrote in message ... I tend you use ceramic grade rutile which is darker than light rutile and use that unless light is specified. As far as the whiting goes, aske your supplier what the difference is. I know with some wollastonites for instance, there is a bit of iron, so you might want to find whichever whiting or wollastonite is purer. Although Custer and G200 can usually be used interchangeable, Custer has a bit more silica which can help prevent crazing if your recipe is on the border as far of expansion is concerned. If you know how to reformulate a recipe, with or without software, it's easy enough to reformulate it for a different spar; but in most cases, either one would have a good chance of working. The frits aren't interchangeable really, because although thy all have boron, the other ingredients vary. 3195 has more alumina in it for instance and I use that if I want a high alumina recipe and don't want too much clay in the recipe. You get a bit more boron for the money in 3195 which is why I often use it, but I make sure it fits in on a molecular level with my recipe. If you're working at cone 6 I would not advise getting your list of materials too small. You can do without wollastonite and reformulate the recipe for silica and whiting which is what wollastonite is composed of; but you'll have to back engineer the recipe. For cone 6, minimum materials list, I would advise Frit 3134 Neph sy F4 soda spar Custer epk OM4 ball clay whiting talc dolomite silica - 200 mesh spodumene zinc oxide bentonite Zircopax or Superpax Tin Oxide and your basic coloring oxides With these ingredients you can formulate alkaline glazes, calcium or alumina matts, etc. These are also the ingredients you would most commonly find in cone 6 recipes. If you want to extend the list, you can also get some of these to play around with: wollastnite barium carbonate strontium carbonate Lithium carbonate Gillespie Borate or Boraq (Gerstley substitutes) Volcanic ash Frit 3124 Frit 3195 Regards, June http://www.angelfire.com/art2/shambhalapottery/ |
#10
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To add a little to June's excellent advice. When you have settled on the
core selection of glazes that you like be as consistent as you can over the materials you use, don't go for different stuff because it is cheaper or your glazes could change for the worse. Steve Bath UK In article , ShantiP1 writes I tend you use ceramic grade rutile which is darker than light rutile and use that unless light is specified. As far as the whiting goes, aske your supplier what the difference is. I know with some wollastonites for instance, there is a bit of iron, so you might want to find whichever whiting or wollastonite is purer. Although Custer and G200 can usually be used interchangeable, Custer has a bit more silica which can help prevent crazing if your recipe is on the border as far of expansion is concerned. If you know how to reformulate a recipe, with or without software, it's easy enough to reformulate it for a different spar; but in most cases, either one would have a good chance of working. The frits aren't interchangeable really, because although thy all have boron, the other ingredients vary. 3195 has more alumina in it for instance and I use that if I want a high alumina recipe and don't want too much clay in the recipe. You get a bit more boron for the money in 3195 which is why I often use it, but I make sure it fits in on a molecular level with my recipe. If you're working at cone 6 I would not advise getting your list of materials too small. You can do without wollastonite and reformulate the recipe for silica and whiting which is what wollastonite is composed of; but you'll have to back engineer the recipe. For cone 6, minimum materials list, I would advise Frit 3134 Neph sy F4 soda spar Custer epk OM4 ball clay whiting talc dolomite silica - 200 mesh spodumene zinc oxide bentonite Zircopax or Superpax Tin Oxide and your basic coloring oxides With these ingredients you can formulate alkaline glazes, calcium or alumina matts, etc. These are also the ingredients you would most commonly find in cone 6 recipes. If you want to extend the list, you can also get some of these to play around with: wollastnite barium carbonate strontium carbonate Lithium carbonate Gillespie Borate or Boraq (Gerstley substitutes) Volcanic ash Frit 3124 Frit 3195 Regards, June http://www.angelfire.com/art2/shambhalapottery/ -- Steve Mills Bath UK |
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