PaperClay - water resistant?!?

Anyone have any suggestions?
I'm going to start with paperclay but i need it to be water
resistant...

The same problem I have with clay fired with glaze at RAKU :/

Thank you in advance!
Vitold

wrote:
Anyone have any suggestions?
I'm going to start with paperclay but i need it to be water
resistant...

The same problem I have with clay fired with glaze at RAKU :/

Thank you in advance!
Vitold

There are two different stuffs called paper clay.

One is paper pulp+glue (papier mache). It is not waterproof
unless you use f.ex epoxy glue.

The pther is normal water based clay with cellulose pulp added.
When fired, the organic stuff burns out leaving very porous and
lightweight ceramic form. It is waterproof in the sense
that it does not dissolve in water, but because of porosity
it is less waterproof than ordinary bisque fired clay.
I *guess* one can glaze it so it becomes not-permeable.
-lauri

I use clay mixed with paper (cellulose). It is ordinary bisque fired
first and then fired with glaze but in raku technique - so the glaze is
very "cracle" and very water unresistant :-)
What to use to make for ex a vase resistant?
Vitold


Lauri Levanto wrote:
wrote:
Anyone have any suggestions?
I'm going to start with paperclay but i need it to be water
resistant...

The same problem I have with clay fired with glaze at RAKU :/

Thank you in advance!
Vitold

There are two different stuffs called paper clay.

One is paper pulp+glue (papier mache). It is not waterproof
unless you use f.ex epoxy glue.

The pther is normal water based clay with cellulose pulp added.
When fired, the organic stuff burns out leaving very porous and
lightweight ceramic form. It is waterproof in the sense
that it does not dissolve in water, but because of porosity
it is less waterproof than ordinary bisque fired clay.
I *guess* one can glaze it so it becomes not-permeable.
-lauri

witold.pyrkosz wrote:
I use clay mixed with paper (cellulose). It is ordinary bisque fired
first and then fired with glaze but in raku technique - so the glaze is
very "cracle" and very water unresistant :-)
What to use to make for ex a vase resistant?
Vitold


Lauri Levanto wrote:

wrote:

Anyone have any suggestions?
I'm going to start with paperclay but i need it to be water
resistant...

The same problem I have with clay fired with glaze at RAKU :/

Thank you in advance!
Vitold


There are two different stuffs called paper clay.

One is paper pulp+glue (papier mache). It is not waterproof
unless you use f.ex epoxy glue.

The pther is normal water based clay with cellulose pulp added.
When fired, the organic stuff burns out leaving very porous and
lightweight ceramic form. It is waterproof in the sense
that it does not dissolve in water, but because of porosity
it is less waterproof than ordinary bisque fired clay.
I *guess* one can glaze it so it becomes not-permeable.
-lauri


Unfortunately I can't help more with glazes.
I am a glass artist and use paper clay only to make bisque fired moulds.

All i know is that you have to match the shrinkage of the glaze
with the body.
-lauri

"witold.pyrkosz" wrote in message
ups.com...
I use clay mixed with paper (cellulose). It is ordinary bisque fired
first and then fired with glaze but in raku technique - so the glaze is
very "cracle" and very water unresistant :-)
What to use to make for ex a vase resistant?
Vitold

You might try polyurethane on the inside of your vase. I know that Marine
Spar polyurethane makes wood pretty much impervious to water.

The only thing that I know will work, because I do it professionally, is to
seal with an epoxy resin putty, the putty would be colored to match or
become the glaze, then spray the whole thing with a special 'aliphatic'
urethane to protect the epoxy. A lot of work. Epoxy is 100% effect as a
water vapour barrier. If it chips, or cracks - then all that work is wasted
until it is repaired.

This is a very common problem - people see those giant, inexpensive glazed
pots coming out of Asia - only to find they last less than one season
outside. The have to be sealed inside, but also outside because of the poor,
microcracked glazing, and often the pots themselves are not 'high' fired and
therefore very fragile.


wrote in message
oups.com...
Anyone have any suggestions?
I'm going to start with paperclay but i need it to be water
resistant...

The same problem I have with clay fired with glaze at RAKU :/

Thank you in advance!
Vitold

It is very important to use clay and glaze that match; in other words
don't use earthenware glaze on a stoneware clay.
Granted the matrix of a paperclay body is more open than your average
smooth clay, but then so is a coarse crank or sculptural body, and they
can be glazed very successfully.

TEST!
Sort out what clay you are going to use, make a small test pot, buy a
small amount of an appropriate brush-on glaze, follow the instructions
on the label, and fire the result to the recommended cone.
If it holds water you're there, if not, by following the above you have
taken a course that can be checked at each stage which should allow you
to isolate what went wrong.

Steve
Bath
UK


In article .com,
writes
Anyone have any suggestions?
I'm going to start with paperclay but i need it to be water
resistant...

The same problem I have with clay fired with glaze at RAKU :/

Thank you in advance!
Vitold


--
Steve Mills
Bath
UK

if you're using a cone 10 claybody with paperclay added & fire the
final piece to cone 10 you will be fine with a water containing vessle.


if you fire to raku temps, you'll see water ooze thru.

i fired lately some sawdust clay. cone 10. works fine! the cool part
to me is the pieces are a lot lighter then typical.

see ya

steve

Steve Mills wrote:
It is very important to use clay and glaze that match; in other words
don't use earthenware glaze on a stoneware clay.
Granted the matrix of a paperclay body is more open than your average
smooth clay, but then so is a coarse crank or sculptural body, and they
can be glazed very successfully.

TEST!
Sort out what clay you are going to use, make a small test pot, buy a
small amount of an appropriate brush-on glaze, follow the instructions
on the label, and fire the result to the recommended cone.
If it holds water you're there, if not, by following the above you have
taken a course that can be checked at each stage which should allow you
to isolate what went wrong.

Steve
Bath
UK


In article .com,
writes
Anyone have any suggestions?
I'm going to start with paperclay but i need it to be water
resistant...

The same problem I have with clay fired with glaze at RAKU :/

Thank you in advance!
Vitold


--
Steve Mills
Bath
UK

Isn't the nature of the porosity of paper clay (high fired) different
to the nature of other clays (i.e. Aren't the voids left as the
paper is burnt away acting as channels, whether vitrified or not)?
Also, when the cellulose fibre burns does it leave an ash residue that
could in effect become an integral glaze? I ask these questions in pure
ignorance, does anybody know?
Andy

steve wrote:

if you're using a cone 10 claybody with paperclay added & fire the
final piece to cone 10 you will be fine with a water containing vessle.


if you fire to raku temps, you'll see water ooze thru.

i fired lately some sawdust clay. cone 10. works fine! the cool part
to me is the pieces are a lot lighter then typical.

see ya

steve

Steve Mills wrote:
It is very important to use clay and glaze that match; in other words
don't use earthenware glaze on a stoneware clay.
Granted the matrix of a paperclay body is more open than your average
smooth clay, but then so is a coarse crank or sculptural body, and they
can be glazed very successfully.

TEST!
Sort out what clay you are going to use, make a small test pot, buy a
small amount of an appropriate brush-on glaze, follow the instructions
on the label, and fire the result to the recommended cone.
If it holds water you're there, if not, by following the above you have
taken a course that can be checked at each stage which should allow you
to isolate what went wrong.

Steve
Bath
UK


In article .com,
writes
Anyone have any suggestions?
I'm going to start with paperclay but i need it to be water
resistant...

The same problem I have with clay fired with glaze at RAKU :/

Thank you in advance!
Vitold


--
Steve Mills
Bath
UK

Has it been used?

d
"plodder" wrote in message
ups.com...
Isn't the nature of the porosity of paper clay (high fired) different
to the nature of other clays (i.e. Aren't the voids left as the
paper is burnt away acting as channels, whether vitrified or not)?
Also, when the cellulose fibre burns does it leave an ash residue that
could in effect become an integral glaze? I ask these questions in pure
ignorance, does anybody know?
Andy

steve wrote:

if you're using a cone 10 claybody with paperclay added & fire the
final piece to cone 10 you will be fine with a water containing vessle.


if you fire to raku temps, you'll see water ooze thru.

i fired lately some sawdust clay. cone 10. works fine! the cool part
to me is the pieces are a lot lighter then typical.

see ya

steve

Steve Mills wrote:
It is very important to use clay and glaze that match; in other words
don't use earthenware glaze on a stoneware clay.
Granted the matrix of a paperclay body is more open than your average
smooth clay, but then so is a coarse crank or sculptural body, and they
can be glazed very successfully.

TEST!
Sort out what clay you are going to use, make a small test pot, buy a
small amount of an appropriate brush-on glaze, follow the instructions
on the label, and fire the result to the recommended cone.
If it holds water you're there, if not, by following the above you have
taken a course that can be checked at each stage which should allow you
to isolate what went wrong.

Steve
Bath
UK


In article .com,
writes
Anyone have any suggestions?
I'm going to start with paperclay but i need it to be water
resistant...

The same problem I have with clay fired with glaze at RAKU :/

Thank you in advance!
Vitold


--
Steve Mills
Bath
UK