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Roman blinds
I've made lined Roman blinds very successfully before, but they were for
upstairs rooms where it didn't matter that you could see the tape from outside. Now I'm making them for a room which faces out onto the street. Is there a way of making them with the lining outside of the tape? In other words the tape sewed straight onto the fabric and the lining put on afterwards? Or doesn't it matter that the tape shows? I'd appreciate opinions and advice. Lizzie |
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Lizzie, I always line my blinds with white fabric, so the tape is not
noticeable from outside. Karen Maslowski in Ohio Lizzie wrote: I've made lined Roman blinds very successfully before, but they were for upstairs rooms where it didn't matter that you could see the tape from outside. Now I'm making them for a room which faces out onto the street. Is there a way of making them with the lining outside of the tape? In other words the tape sewed straight onto the fabric and the lining put on afterwards? Or doesn't it matter that the tape shows? I'd appreciate opinions and advice. Lizzie |
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SAme here. You can do them with just rings, no tape but it
is more work. Taria Karen Maslowski wrote: Lizzie, I always line my blinds with white fabric, so the tape is not noticeable from outside. Karen Maslowski in Ohio Lizzie wrote: I've made lined Roman blinds very successfully before, but they were for upstairs rooms where it didn't matter that you could see the tape from outside. Now I'm making them for a room which faces out onto the street. Is there a way of making them with the lining outside of the tape? In other words the tape sewed straight onto the fabric and the lining put on afterwards? Or doesn't it matter that the tape shows? I'd appreciate opinions and advice. Lizzie |
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Karen and Taria
Thanks for your advice. I think the white lining is the way to go. Lizzie |
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Hi,
I always use just the rings - it's really not a whole lot more work: mark the ring placement with chalk (or your own favourite marking method) and then whip the rings on with your machine and the button function. Works a charm as the start and finish are both 'knotted off' - a dab of fray stop and the job is done! I actually find doing the rings faster than the tape. Cynthia "taria" wrote in message news:XwEWd.81539$uc.53707@trnddc04... SAme here. You can do them with just rings, no tape but it is more work. Taria Karen Maslowski wrote: Lizzie, I always line my blinds with white fabric, so the tape is not noticeable from outside. Karen Maslowski in Ohio Lizzie wrote: I've made lined Roman blinds very successfully before, but they were for upstairs rooms where it didn't matter that you could see the tape from outside. Now I'm making them for a room which faces out onto the street. Is there a way of making them with the lining outside of the tape? In other words the tape sewed straight onto the fabric and the lining put on afterwards? Or doesn't it matter that the tape shows? I'd appreciate opinions and advice. Lizzie |
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Lizzie Mar 6, 5:18 am
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles.sewing From: "Lizzie" Subject: Roman blinds Lizzie wrote: I've made lined Roman blinds very successfully before, but they were for upstairs rooms where it didn't matter that you could see the tape from outside. Now I'm making them for a room which faces out onto the street. Is there a way of making them with the lining outside of the tape? In other words the tape sewed straight onto the fabric and the lining put on afterwards? Or doesn't it matter that the tape shows? --- Lizzie, if you use tape to match the lining, it won't matter if the ring tape shows. Trying to sandwich the tape between the lining and face fabric would result in the lining being an uncontrolled mess of fabric. I usually back Roman shades with sun-block fabric; a heavier, rubberized lining, which reduces solar heat gain, light penetration, and has some noise reduction value. I sew the individual rings on using the sewing machine. Ring positions are pre-marked lightly with vanishing marker, or, if I might be interrupted, I use a light pencil mark, a tiny X. Makes it easy to pick up a ring, machine-tack, pick up a ring, etc. Cea |
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#8
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Seeker Mar 16, 5:15 pm show options
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles.sewing From: Seeker - Find messages by this author Date: Thu, 17 Mar 2005 01:15:28 GMT Local: Wed, Mar 16 2005 5:15 pm Subject: Roman blinds Reply | Reply to Author | Forward | Print | Individual Message | Show original | Report Abuse On 9 Mar 2005 07:04:19 -0800, wrote: - Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Lizzie Mar 6, 5:18 am Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles.sewing From: "Lizzie" Subject: Roman blinds Lizzie wrote: I've made lined Roman blinds very successfully before, but they were for upstairs rooms where it didn't matter that you could see the tape from outside. Now I'm making them for a room which faces out onto the street. Is there a way of making them with the lining outside of the tape? In other words the tape sewed straight onto the fabric and the lining put on afterwards? Or doesn't it matter that the tape shows? --- Lizzie, if you use tape to match the lining, it won't matter if the ring tape shows. Trying to sandwich the tape between the lining and face fabric would result in the lining being an uncontrolled mess of fabric. I usually back Roman shades with sun-block fabric; a heavier, rubberized lining, which reduces solar heat gain, light penetration, and has some noise reduction value. I sew the individual rings on using the sewing machine. Ring positions are pre-marked lightly with vanishing marker, or, if I might be interrupted, I use a light pencil mark, a tiny X. Makes it easy to pick up a ring, machine-tack, pick up a ring, etc. Cea --------------------- I'm having trouble visualizing how to sew rings on by machine. Can someone go into more depth about this. Kate said to use the button foot. How do you line the ring up? Do you have to use a button reed? And how do you deal with the curve of the ring? Am I missing any thing? Sharon ------------------------ I use neither tape, nor button foot, relying on finger pressure and a wide zig-zag foot to keep the ring in place as I sew. When I am constructing the shade, after either bagging or inserting the lining while the shade is flat on the worktable, I mark the back of the lining for ring placement, using a lead pencil, marking lightly. I also stick a straight pin through both layers at marks, to prevent layers shifting as they are handled. Fold shade in gentle accordian folds, carry to machine. I work with a shade as I work with quilt fabric, a section at a time. Position shade under needle. Pick ring out of a boxful of rings, lift presser foot. lay ring beneath foot, lower foot, take 2 in-place lock stitches, adjust stitch width to a wide enough zig-zag so that needle clears the ring diameter, run a 4 to 6 zz stitches, then take 2 in-place lock stitches to keep thread from ravelling out. In place stitching: set stitch length at 0, take 2 stitches through the same hole. Almost always forms a small knot, locking stitches in place. Don't snip threads between stitches--just move to next ring mark, repeat above steps. Later, trim threads. Once you've done a few of these, you'll find you can sew the rings on at high speed using your machine. It's quick, easy, and, if you sew shades for a living, it's a skill worth acquiring, since speed=money. Tips: if using rubberized sunblock backing on shades, don't use over a size 11 or 12 needle, at largest, to prevent light penetration from holes which form in the backing. Another tip to keep the holes to minimum: skip the in-place lock stitches, leave long enough thread tails, tie off threads by hand on each ring. HTH. Cea |
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