Clay Boss wheel - blown circuitboard - I need a part, but from where?

Didn't just blow the fuse, also blew the yellow disk capacitor on the
circuit board (and I hope nothing else!). The board is marked KBDM
REV.A 111894. It's Creative Industries Clay Boss, nice little wheel if
I can fix it.

Problem is, the capacitor has no legible value on it, like in farads,
so I dunno how to buy a replacement part. All it says is "Z151 09UL"
and I can't find a meaning for that.

So, question: anybody know the capacitor value, or have an actual
schematic for the board?

Alternate question: is there any place I can just buy a replacement
board for less than the cost of a whole new wheel? Anybody got a Clay
Boss with a broken motor, willing to part with the circuit board?

I'm beggin' ya, here! Thanks in advance,

-- töff, Fresno CA USA

In article .com, töff
says...
Didn't just blow the fuse, also blew the yellow disk capacitor on the
circuit board (and I hope nothing else!). The board is marked KBDM
REV.A 111894. It's Creative Industries Clay Boss, nice little wheel if
I can fix it.

Problem is, the capacitor has no legible value on it, like in farads,
so I dunno how to buy a replacement part. All it says is "Z151 09UL"
and I can't find a meaning for that.

So, question: anybody know the capacitor value, or have an actual
schematic for the board?

ITYF it's one of these: http://tinyurl.com/2vr6xz

http://www.maida.com/content/product...ullRecord.asp?
iACVolts=150&iDCVolts=0&iDiskSize=0&stylenum=D6921 ZOV151RA09

Any MOV of similar rating will do the job.

Do you know what made it blow in the first place?

ITYF it's one of these: http://tinyurl.com/2vr6xz

Wow! You found it! .... 760 pF, I know what that means, yeh.

Do you know what made it blow in the first place?

Bit of a mystery. The working theory is that the power line we plugged
into was 240V instead of 120V. it sure looked like a 120V plug to me!
But that's just a theory ... the outlet in question is way across town
and it's kinda moot to go back and test it somehow.

Thanks for the link, that's fantastic! ... Off to Radio Shack ...

-- töff

In article .com,
says...
Z151 09UL



made by new york semivonductor, avaialbnle in lots of 1000 or less...

go down to sparkey's om ashlan and willow (just west of blackbeards)

and you should be able to get a replacement..

this may not be the only problem however,

you can try a minarik 640a motor controller, but as Ive never torn out a
clay boss im not sure what the values are.. have you tried duncan
ceramics? they do repair work on some ceramic equiptment...

im also in the ares (clovis) feel free to email me,

(moose studios potery)

[This followup was posted to rec.crafts.pottery and a copy was sent to
the cited author.]

In article .com, töff
says...
ITYF it's one of these: http://tinyurl.com/2vr6xz

Wow! You found it! .... 760 pF, I know what that means, yeh.

Do you know what made it blow in the first place?

Bit of a mystery. The working theory is that the power line we plugged
into was 240V instead of 120V. it sure looked like a 120V plug to me!
But that's just a theory ... the outlet in question is way across town
and it's kinda moot to go back and test it somehow.

Thanks for the link, that's fantastic! ... Off to Radio Shack ...

You do realise it's a MOV (metal oxide varistor, a surge protection
device) not a regular capacitor?

You do realise it's a MOV (metal oxide varistor, a surge protection
device) not a regular capacitor?

Hmm, no I didn't, until I read the spec sheet.

btw, don't bother with Radio Shack for anything like that. They're all
cell phones and car stereos now. The guy showed me where they hide
their three little drawers of (and I quote) "capaci-tators" :-D

So I'm off to a real electroniocs store tomorrow.

Thanks again for the help! With luck I can reinvent the wheel ... I
mean, repair.

After Action Report

HUGE THANKS to Rob Morley for identifying the blown cap-- I mean the
blown Metal Oxide Varistor.

Unable to find the exact replacement, but found a very similar one,
specs only slightly higher. Soldered it in, turned it on, and our
little Clay Boss runs like a champ again.

VICTORY!

In article . com, töff
says...
After Action Report

HUGE THANKS to Rob Morley for identifying the blown cap-- I mean the
blown Metal Oxide Varistor.

Glad I could be of assistance.

Unable to find the exact replacement, but found a very similar one,
specs only slightly higher. Soldered it in, turned it on, and our
little Clay Boss runs like a champ again.

VICTORY!

YIPPEE :-)

"töff" wrote in message
ups.com...
After Action Report

HUGE THANKS to Rob Morley for identifying the blown cap-- I mean the
blown Metal Oxide Varistor.

Unable to find the exact replacement, but found a very similar one,
specs only slightly higher. Soldered it in, turned it on, and our
little Clay Boss runs like a champ again.

VICTORY!


Thumbs Up!!! Been waiting to see how this went. DK

HUGE THANKS to Rob Morley for identifying the blown cap-- I mean the
blown Metal Oxide Varistor.

Unable to find the exact replacement, but found a very similar one,
specs only slightly higher. Soldered it in, turned it on, and our
little Clay Boss runs like a champ again.

VICTORY!


Thumbs Up!!! Been waiting to see how this went. DK

Just a small technical point about MOVs. These are designed to draw a heavy
current when the input voltage exceeds the rated figure, which blows a
protective fuse and usually the MOV as well. This protects the rest of the
electronics from nasty high voltage spikes. Removing the MOV and replacing
the fuse will usually get the device to work again, but obviously without
any overvoltage protection. However, it could be handy in an emergency
situation for a short time.

Cheers

Dave