some help for my soldering tip?

The round part of my tip is rusting pretty badly and leaving bits of gunky
rust in the solder. Is there a good way to take the rust off and not damage
the tin coating?

--
Connie Ryman
Cryman Studio
www.eclecticbeadery.com

what type of iron is it? most have replacement tips for a couple bucks. Are
you periodically wiping the tip on a damp sponge or a sal ammoniac block?
That will alleviate getting the gunk in the solder bead. m

"C Ryman" wrote in message
...
The round part of my tip is rusting pretty badly and leaving bits of gunky
rust in the solder. Is there a good way to take the rust off and not
damage
the tin coating?

--
Connie Ryman
Cryman Studio
www.eclecticbeadery.com

It's a Mika which is not as common as Inland but I like it OK. My Inland
died last year. The working end of the chisel tip is fine, I use a wet
sponge and Sal Ammoniac. The problem is father up. The rust is getting
bad, maybe from being in the basement. Bits of rust all over the sponge. I
guess I can try lightly sanding it.

--
Connie Ryman
Cryman Studio
www.eclecticbeadery.com
"Michele Blank" wrote in message
...
what type of iron is it? most have replacement tips for a couple bucks.
Are
you periodically wiping the tip on a damp sponge or a sal ammoniac block?
That will alleviate getting the gunk in the solder bead. m

"C Ryman" wrote in message
...
The round part of my tip is rusting pretty badly and leaving bits of
gunky
rust in the solder. Is there a good way to take the rust off and not
damage
the tin coating?

--
Connie Ryman
Cryman Studio
www.eclecticbeadery.com

I use a wire brush on my bench grinder. Maybe you could use one of the
brass bristle brushes that you use to remove oxidation from the lead/zinc if
you don't have a big grinder?
"C Ryman" wrote in message
...
It's a Mika which is not as common as Inland but I like it OK. My Inland
died last year. The working end of the chisel tip is fine, I use a wet
sponge and Sal Ammoniac. The problem is father up. The rust is getting
bad, maybe from being in the basement. Bits of rust all over the sponge.
I
guess I can try lightly sanding it.

--
Connie Ryman
Cryman Studio
www.eclecticbeadery.com
"Michele Blank" wrote in message
...
what type of iron is it? most have replacement tips for a couple bucks.
Are
you periodically wiping the tip on a damp sponge or a sal ammoniac
block?
That will alleviate getting the gunk in the solder bead. m

"C Ryman" wrote in message
...
The round part of my tip is rusting pretty badly and leaving bits of
gunky
rust in the solder. Is there a good way to take the rust off and not
damage
the tin coating?

--
Connie Ryman
Cryman Studio
www.eclecticbeadery.com

"C Ryman" wrote in message
...
The round part of my tip is rusting pretty badly and leaving bits of
gunky
rust in the solder. Is there a good way to take the rust off and not
damage
the tin coating?

I use a Mika (456) also, your gonna love this....
I dunk my iron in the liquid flux to clean it, and that gunk, after your
iron is hot, grab that "barrel" part up above the clad part of the tip and
give it a twist, all that "oxidation" will come off. Have a few replacement
tips around for when the metal ( copper) gets too thin and you can change
the tips.
After getting the crud off, dunk it in the flux to clean it to the metal and
then keep soldering. That gunk can't flow into your flux if you only add
solder down near the tip and not up so high above the cladding. Their tips
seem to wear fast but I like the irons, light weight and big fat ceramic
compared top the instaheats.

I use a Mika (456) also, your gonna love this....
I dunk my iron in the liquid flux to clean it, and that gunk, after your
iron is hot, grab that "barrel" part up above the clad part of the tip and
give it a twist, all that "oxidation" will come off. Have a few
replacement
tips around for when the metal ( copper) gets too thin and you can change
the tips.
After getting the crud off, dunk it in the flux to clean it to the metal
and
then keep soldering. That gunk can't flow into your flux if you only add
solder down near the tip and not up so high above the cladding. Their
tips
seem to wear fast but I like the irons, light weight and big fat ceramic
compared top the instaheats.


Don't even know my own equipment, my apologies...
I have a Hakko iron 456 with the larger ceramic and the clad tip by which I
knock off the crud, hope nobody screwed up an iron tip on account of what I
said, but then again, maybe it works!!

Sounds like a good idea, I have a brass brush.
Thanks,

--
Connie Ryman
Cryman Studio
www.eclecticbeadery.com
"Moonraker" wrote in message
...
I use a wire brush on my bench grinder. Maybe you could use one of the
brass bristle brushes that you use to remove oxidation from the lead/zinc
if
you don't have a big grinder?
"C Ryman" wrote in message
...
It's a Mika which is not as common as Inland but I like it OK. My
Inland
died last year. The working end of the chisel tip is fine, I use a wet
sponge and Sal Ammoniac. The problem is father up. The rust is getting
bad, maybe from being in the basement. Bits of rust all over the
sponge.
I
guess I can try lightly sanding it.

--
Connie Ryman
Cryman Studio
www.eclecticbeadery.com
"Michele Blank" wrote in
message
...
what type of iron is it? most have replacement tips for a couple
bucks.
Are
you periodically wiping the tip on a damp sponge or a sal ammoniac
block?
That will alleviate getting the gunk in the solder bead. m

"C Ryman" wrote in message
...
The round part of my tip is rusting pretty badly and leaving bits of
gunky
rust in the solder. Is there a good way to take the rust off and
not
damage
the tin coating?

--
Connie Ryman
Cryman Studio
www.eclecticbeadery.com

What are you grabbing the hot barrel with?

I was lucky the other day, during edge soldering a glob of solder fell into
my sweatshirt sleeve. I just looked at my wrist and thought "well, I'm not
yelling d&%M or jumping up and down, what's up" The solder had landed on
the side of my plastic watch band and stuck. I only had a tiny little burn
and it didn't hurt the watch.

--
Connie Ryman
Cryman Studio
www.eclecticbeadery.com
"Javahut" wrote in message
...

"C Ryman" wrote in message
...
The round part of my tip is rusting pretty badly and leaving bits of
gunky
rust in the solder. Is there a good way to take the rust off and
not
damage
the tin coating?

I use a Mika (456) also, your gonna love this....
I dunk my iron in the liquid flux to clean it, and that gunk, after your
iron is hot, grab that "barrel" part up above the clad part of the tip and
give it a twist, all that "oxidation" will come off. Have a few
replacement
tips around for when the metal ( copper) gets too thin and you can change
the tips.
After getting the crud off, dunk it in the flux to clean it to the metal
and
then keep soldering. That gunk can't flow into your flux if you only add
solder down near the tip and not up so high above the cladding. Their
tips
seem to wear fast but I like the irons, light weight and big fat ceramic
compared top the instaheats.

Pliers! I be tough, but not THAT tough! no bare hands.
the teeth of the pliers do the same thing as a file, just quicker.


"C Ryman" wrote in message
...
What are you grabbing the hot barrel with?

I was lucky the other day, during edge soldering a glob of solder fell
into
my sweatshirt sleeve. I just looked at my wrist and thought "well, I'm
not
yelling d&%M or jumping up and down, what's up" The solder had landed on
the side of my plastic watch band and stuck. I only had a tiny little
burn
and it didn't hurt the watch.

--
Connie Ryman
Cryman Studio
www.eclecticbeadery.com
"Javahut" wrote in message
...

"C Ryman" wrote in message
...
The round part of my tip is rusting pretty badly and leaving bits
of
gunky
rust in the solder. Is there a good way to take the rust off and
not
damage
the tin coating?

I use a Mika (456) also, your gonna love this....
I dunk my iron in the liquid flux to clean it, and that gunk, after your
iron is hot, grab that "barrel" part up above the clad part of the tip
and
give it a twist, all that "oxidation" will come off. Have a few
replacement
tips around for when the metal ( copper) gets too thin and you can
change
the tips.
After getting the crud off, dunk it in the flux to clean it to the metal
and
then keep soldering. That gunk can't flow into your flux if you only
add
solder down near the tip and not up so high above the cladding. Their
tips
seem to wear fast but I like the irons, light weight and big fat ceramic
compared top the instaheats.

C Ryman wrote:

What are you grabbing the hot barrel with?

I was lucky the other day, during edge soldering a glob of solder fell into
my sweatshirt sleeve. I just looked at my wrist and thought "well, I'm not
yelling d&%M or jumping up and down, what's up" The solder had landed on
the side of my plastic watch band and stuck. I only had a tiny little burn
and it didn't hurt the watch.


You should see how fast a welder can get his boot off when a glob of
white hot slag drops down it.

--
Jack


http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/xmissionbobo/