Orvus.

On 5/29/04 3:34 AM, in article ,
"Karen C - California" wrote:

In article , Elaine
Benfatto writes:

(snip!)

And now I have a dishwasher, for which I haven't figured out an emergency
substitute detergent.


Tang or baking soda!

Tang (or the generic replacement) is also great for hard water stains!
Cheryl

Another interesting post. So much to learn. I won't change how I
handle my needlework, because what I do has been successful and because
I'm not worried about 100 years down the road. But there were some
interesting notes to take into consideration should the need arise.
I've printed it out. Thanks, Elaine.
Dianne

Elaine Benfatto wrote:

Jim Cripwell described the ingredients and said it was pure soap - not
detergent.


Actually, I must disagree with that. I formulate shampoos and body care
products professionally so I am very familiar with what is in Orvus. It
is a detergent, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate. NOT a soap. SLS is exceptionally
cheap and used in very, very many household products, from dishwashing
detergents to toothpaste. Anything in which foam is desired.

Among the detergents (or in the technical jargon, "surfactants") that
are used for shampoo and body care products, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate is
considered quite harsh and drying to the skin. I would personally never
use it in its pure state as a shampoo, because it can be an eye irritant
and it would do quite a number on my already rather dry hair. It is used
in many shampoos, though, because formulators buffer it with other
ingredients that reduce its harsh effects on skin and hair. SLS is
mainly used to produce foam. There are many other surfactants that clean
hair beautifully and gently, but do not produce the level of foam that
consumers expect in shampoos. So SLS is used to boost the foam levels
(and also reduce the overall costs. It's extremely cheap stuff!)


I use Woolite, but I would be very careful of it with some threads,
since it has a minor bleaching agent in it.


Woolite does not contain a bleaching agent. This question has come up in
some of my other email lists, and I have done my best to figure out
Woolite's formulation from the information available on its Material
Data Safety Sheet. As far as I can tell (and the information in the MSDS
is limited), it contains Sodium Laureth Sulfate (a somewhat gentler
version of Orvus) and another, harsher surfactant that is used more
often for industrial cleaning products. There is no acid (as I've heard
some people report) nor is there bleach listed among its ingredients.
The biggest problem, besides the harshness of the surfactants, is that
it seems rather alkaline. That is not so good for wool. Cotton likes
alkaline conditions, but wools prefer acidic environments. Alkaline
conditions can degrade the hand and the luster of wool fibers.

Silk can tolerate alkaline conditions, but I can't say as much for the
dyes sometimes used on silk. From what I can see, the dyes can sometimes
be affected by certain harsh detergents that break down the chemical
bonds holding the dye molecules to the fiber, causing the dyes to run.


Kitchen detergent, such as Dawn, works very well in embroidery because
it gets rid of skin oils effectively.


The amount of oils that needs to be cleaned from needlework after the
stitching is finished is actually quite small. I know people get very
concerned about skin oils and grime, but compared to other household
cleaning jobs, there's relatively little oil to wash out. I agree that
hand dishwashing liquids have some of the most effective grease-cutting
detergents available in consumer-level products right now. I would
recommend, however, that you stay with the cheap generic store brands
that don't have all the "power booster" enhancements, etc. You don't
need it. The ingredients used to enhance grease-cutting could have a
negative effect on the dyes in your silk and wool fibers. (Not as
critical for cotton or linen, which are dyed in alkaline conditions in
the first place.) So the cheap, wimpy products that don't foam all that
well are perfect for cleaning handwork.

Another perfectly acceptable alternative are generic storebrand
shampoos. Again, stay away from the fancy conditioning, herbal enhanced,
shiny glitz making, curly activating types... They could possibly leave
some conditioning agents behind after rinsing (they're formulated that
way!) and we don't know what effects those conditioners would have over
the years, decades, and hopefully centuries ahead. But generic shampoos
are formulated with as few ingredients as possible for monetary reasons.
So if you look at the product labels, you'll no doubt see our old friend
Orvus (aka Sodium Lauryl Sulfate) listed with its well-known siblings,
Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate, Cocoamide DEA, and
perhaps Cocomidapropyl Betaine. All of these are perfectly fine for
fiber, can remove skin oils from the needlework, and rinse clean. And
they're cheap. Baby shampoo could be fine too, but it's not necessary
and it's expensive.


And I often used Tide or Cheer - which guard against fading colors.


I would not recommend laundry detergents for washing needlework. Yes,
the brands you listed are supposed to guard against fading colors, but
that's in the context of other laundry detergents! Among household
cleaners, laundry detergents are probably among the strongest you have
in your house. Many, many of them do not even contain detergents, but
are based on other chemical families, such as washing sodas and
ethylated alcohols. All of these ingredients can have the effect of
loosening the dye from the fiber, which causes fading They're great for
washing cotton and synthetics in washing machines, and would be good for
cleaning things like stoves, burned pots, etc. But handwork? No. Stick
with simple liquid detergents, like those found in shampoo, dishwashing
liquid, or Orvus. They are more compatible with the materials in your
pieces and will clean without nearly the same risk of damage.

Elaine Benfatto
Cambridge, Mass USA

In article , Cheryl Isaak
writes:

Tang or baking soda!

Duly filed away. Though, since I buy dishwasher detergent when it's on sale
two-fer (and then get four), it's highly unlikely that I will ever run out of
the stuff.

And if I do, there is the bottle of grease-cutter dish liquid to tide me over a
short spell of doing it manually.
--
Finished 5/21/04 - Fireman's Wife
WIP: Fireman's Prayer, Amid Amish Life, Angel of Autumn, Calif Sampler, Holiday
Snowglobe

Paralegal - Writer - Editor - Researcher
http://hometown.aol.com/kmc528/KMC.html

On Thursday, May 27, 2004 4:06:34 PM UTC-4, Gillian Murray wrote:
Well, all. I have just returned from my local Ranch/feed store with their
last jug of Orvus. It is just under $20 for 120 ounces, so it will work out
a lot more economical to use than the stuff in a blue jar at the stitchy
stores. The owner said some people even wash their hair in it, so we may try
it on the dogs. Interestingly enough, on the container it DOES mention it's
use in handwashing delicate fabrics, so I guess the secret is out!

Gillian
sweltering in 100deg (shade) temps in Florida.

Where ccan you buy ORVUS soap in Jacksonville, Fl? Thanks, Maryann

On 8/14/2013 1:24 PM, wrote:

Where ccan you buy ORVUS soap in Jacksonville, Fl? Thanks, Maryann

A good feed or saddle shop would have it, if not, craft shops like
Michaels carry it, more expensively.

Or check your local Tractor Supply store (I checked and there is one in
Jacksonville). Remember, though, that they sell the gallon containers,
since it's a shampoo for farm animals. Works really great on them, too!


--
Joan

See my pictures he http://ndjoan.shutterfly.com/pictures

If worries can cure your sickness, prolong your life, or replace
happiness, then go ahead and worry! If they can't, why worry?

Enjoy every moment of your life...there is no second chance.

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