Border and binding help - How do you do them?

My current piecing project is almost finished(just the top). All I have
left is the outer border. The directions say to cut the outer border along
the salvages. I think I know why they suggest doing this - no piecing of
the border to make long enough and more stable/less distortion for wall
hangings (is that right). Any way, the fabric given in the kit for this is
2 yds. Do any of you actually do this? How do you cut a strip that long
and have end up straight when your done?

Now for my binding question: The 2 yds. for the outer border are also for
the binding. The instructions say to cut the binding just as you do the
border. I was told in my beginning class that you should do the binding on
the bias. How may of you do your bindings on the bias? This quilt is not a
wall hanging so the binding will get some wear. Will I regret not doing it
on the bias in a couple of years due to it wearing out? My mom says she
rarely does it on the bias and hasn't had one wear out, but hers don't get
used that much and are washed even less.

TIA!
--
Charlotte
http://community.webshots.com/user/charh108

To get a straight cut, you need to fold the fabric into four or six,
matching the edges nicely, then trim off the selvedge with the rotary
cutter and ruler, remembering to keep the "working" piece (bit you want
to keep) under the ruler. Then turn the whole thing round and cut the
piece you want off using ther measurements on your ruler. If you don't
have a rotary cut ruler, you can measure the part you need, mark with a
pencil in 2 or 3 places, then use a regular ruler and rotary cut as
before. You need to have all this on your cutting board, of course, as
each cut should be made in one go... If you need another length, move
the ruler and cut again.

Bindidngs will last much longer and will be much easier to attach if
they are cut on the straight grain.. Bias bindings are for curved
edges... Use a double binding (cut 2 1/2 inches wide, fold and press in
half, sew both raw edges to the edge of the quilt in one pass) for bed/
lap quilts, for wall hangingsd I usually use a single binding (cut 1
3/4 inches, sew one raw edge to the quilt, turn the other underneath
and sew down on the back.. the first is easier to finish,if you have
enough fabric...

Anything else, or if you still don't get it, please DO ASK

Best stuff,

Helen Howes

...those who dance are often thought mad, by those who cannot hear the
music...

Tao Te Ching


http://www.raindropkites.co.uk
http://www.helenhowestextiles.co.uk

"Charlotte Hippen" wrote in message
news:88MPd.36412$C24.5912@attbi_s52...

Now for my binding question: The 2 yds. for the outer border are also for
the binding. The instructions say to cut the binding just as you do the
border. I was told in my beginning class that you should do the binding
on the bias. How may of you do your bindings on the bias? This quilt is
not a wall hanging so the binding will get some wear. Will I regret not
doing it on the bias in a couple of years due to it wearing out? My mom
says she rarely does it on the bias and hasn't had one wear out, but hers
don't get used that much and are washed even less.

I do all my bindings on the bias, but NOT for wear reasons. I have a quilt
from about 1870 with straight grain binding that has been washed a billion
times, and the binding is not wearing any faster than the original quilt.
(And I'm quite certain the binding is original).

So, you may ask, why am I doing bias binding? I find my quilts end up
flatter that way. For some reason, no matter how carefully I measure, pin,
and sew, I always seem to introduce a ripple when I use straight grain
binding. Obviously it's something I'm doing wrong, but I can't seem to track
it down. (And yes, it IRRITATES me! LOL)

And since I use the parallelogram trick for making bias binding, I find
there's no more waste than with straight grain binding. So I go with what
works for me. YMMV.

--
Kathy A. (Woodland, CA)
Queen of Fabric Tramps
http://www.kayneyquilting.com ,
remove the obvious to reply

I really prefer cutting borders on the lengthwise grain. They do seem
to hang "better" and it is nice to not have seams in the border. I
usually fold my fabrics on the cross, making sure that the folds are
even . If you make sure that the folds are all parallel to each other
and cut perpendicular to the folds your borders will be straight. I
figure that is what all the lines on the rulers are for........ making
sure that things are parallel and perpendicular. G

As for binding, the only time you really need to use bias is when you
have curves to go around. For straight edges straight binding works
just fine. G

Pati, in Phx

Charlotte Hippen wrote:

My current piecing project is almost finished(just the top). All I have
left is the outer border. The directions say to cut the outer border along
the salvages. I think I know why they suggest doing this - no piecing of
the border to make long enough and more stable/less distortion for wall
hangings (is that right). Any way, the fabric given in the kit for this is
2 yds. Do any of you actually do this? How do you cut a strip that long
and have end up straight when your done?

Now for my binding question: The 2 yds. for the outer border are also for
the binding. The instructions say to cut the binding just as you do the
border. I was told in my beginning class that you should do the binding on
the bias. How may of you do your bindings on the bias? This quilt is not a
wall hanging so the binding will get some wear. Will I regret not doing it
on the bias in a couple of years due to it wearing out? My mom says she
rarely does it on the bias and hasn't had one wear out, but hers don't get
used that much and are washed even less.

TIA!

Thanks for your reply.

I think maybe I'll just use the width of the fabric then and piece the
border. That really sounds easy to screw up the way you described. And I
don't have a way to get more of the same fabric if I screw it up.

As for your binding answer, some of what you said contradicts what I was
told so now I'm confused. I was told to use the method you described where
you cut it 2 1/2 in. and fold it. It makes sense to me that the straight
cut would be easier (on straight edges anyway) because you don't have to
worry about distorting it when you put in on the front. I'm confused about
the wear issue thought. I was told that straight of grain wears more
because the threads on the outer edge receiving all the stress are always
the same. Maybe my instructor was commenting on what happens when they do
wear out and I misunderstood. Can you or anyone else help un-confuse me?

--
Charlotte
http://community.webshots.com/user/charh108


wrote in message
ups.com...
To get a straight cut, you need to fold the fabric into four or six,
matching the edges nicely, then trim off the selvedge with the rotary
cutter and ruler, remembering to keep the "working" piece (bit you want
to keep) under the ruler. Then turn the whole thing round and cut the
piece you want off using ther measurements on your ruler. If you don't
have a rotary cut ruler, you can measure the part you need, mark with a
pencil in 2 or 3 places, then use a regular ruler and rotary cut as
before. You need to have all this on your cutting board, of course, as
each cut should be made in one go... If you need another length, move
the ruler and cut again.

Bindidngs will last much longer and will be much easier to attach if
they are cut on the straight grain.. Bias bindings are for curved
edges... Use a double binding (cut 2 1/2 inches wide, fold and press in
half, sew both raw edges to the edge of the quilt in one pass) for bed/
lap quilts, for wall hangingsd I usually use a single binding (cut 1
3/4 inches, sew one raw edge to the quilt, turn the other underneath
and sew down on the back.. the first is easier to finish,if you have
enough fabric...

Anything else, or if you still don't get it, please DO ASK

Best stuff,

Helen Howes

..those who dance are often thought mad, by those who cannot hear the
music...

Tao Te Ching


http://www.raindropkites.co.uk
http://www.helenhowestextiles.co.uk

So what is the parallelogram method?

--
Charlotte
http://community.webshots.com/user/charh108


"Kathy Applebaum" wrote in message
.. .

And since I use the parallelogram trick for making bias binding, I find
there's no more waste than with straight grain binding. So I go with what
works for me. YMMV.

--
Kathy A. (Woodland, CA)
Queen of Fabric Tramps
http://www.kayneyquilting.com ,
remove the obvious to reply

Charlotte, that may be true about the wear on a single thread line, *if
you cut and fold the binding absolutely perfectly on grain*. However,
most of us are not quite that accurate (to the tread line) and there is
not really just one straight thread along the edge. So cutting and
sewing the binding on the straight works fine.

As to the borders, it also depends on the fabric pattern. If it is
directional please take that into account. Cutting long borders on the
lengthwise is really not that difficult. Honest. Just take the fabric
and open it up. Take one selvedge and fold it so it is even with
itself. Fold again, this gives you a 4 layer piece roughly 18" (if you
are starting with a 2 yard piece) by the width of the fabric. Shake it
to make sure the folds are straight. IF you have room to cut the 18"
lay it down on your mat. If not, make one more fold, so you have a 9"
wide cut to make.
Make sure the folds are parallel by making sure that the bottom (or
top) fold is along a measurement line of the ruler. The other folds
should also be on a measurement line of the ruler (for example, if the
bottom fold is at 1", the top fold should be at 10" or 19". Or at least
straight along the line near there, like just below the 10" line, or at
the 19 1/8" line.) . Cut perpendicular to the fold.
I usually cut the first border the border width plus an inch, and then
turn it around to trim the selvedge off. But I check every time to
make sure my folds are all parallel before I cut. (I am only making 4
cuts so that is not a real problem.)

Good luck,
Pati, in Phx

Charlotte Hippen wrote:

Thanks for your reply.

I think maybe I'll just use the width of the fabric then and piece the
border. That really sounds easy to screw up the way you described. And I
don't have a way to get more of the same fabric if I screw it up.

As for your binding answer, some of what you said contradicts what I was
told so now I'm confused. I was told to use the method you described where
you cut it 2 1/2 in. and fold it. It makes sense to me that the straight
cut would be easier (on straight edges anyway) because you don't have to
worry about distorting it when you put in on the front. I'm confused about
the wear issue thought. I was told that straight of grain wears more
because the threads on the outer edge receiving all the stress are always
the same. Maybe my instructor was commenting on what happens when they do
wear out and I misunderstood. Can you or anyone else help un-confuse me?

Thanks Pati. Straight binding just seams so much easier to me. No mess
cutting it and no worries about stretching while sewing.

--
Charlotte
http://community.webshots.com/user/charh108

"Pati Cook" wrote in message
ink.net...
I really prefer cutting borders on the lengthwise grain. They do seem to
hang "better" and it is nice to not have seams in the border. I usually
fold my fabrics on the cross, making sure that the folds are even . If you
make sure that the folds are all parallel to each other and cut
perpendicular to the folds your borders will be straight. I figure that is
what all the lines on the rulers are for........ making sure that things
are parallel and perpendicular. G

As for binding, the only time you really need to use bias is when you have
curves to go around. For straight edges straight binding works just fine.
G

Pati, in Phx

Thanks for that explanation Pati!! I think I'm now clear on the bias vs.
straight edge binding.

With the folding of the fabric, you don't have all the folds all on top of
each other then, you stager them? I guess you would have to do that so you
can actually see them to make sure they are parallel.

My fabric for this one is a med. size floral, so there is now pattern issue
with piecing, just simply means there would be a seam some where in the
middle of it. I guess though this quilt would be a good one to try it on.
The center has 15 different fabrics and the inner border makes 16. The
outside is one of the 15 inner fabrics, but I guess with that may if I screw
it up badly I could just pick something that compliments and no one would
really know that it is another fabric.

--
Charlotte
http://community.webshots.com/user/charh108

"Pati Cook" wrote in message
ink.net...
Charlotte, that may be true about the wear on a single thread line, *if
you cut and fold the binding absolutely perfectly on grain*. However,
most of us are not quite that accurate (to the tread line) and there is
not really just one straight thread along the edge. So cutting and sewing
the binding on the straight works fine.
As to the borders, it also depends on the fabric pattern. If it is
directional please take that into account. Cutting long borders on the
lengthwise is really not that difficult. Honest. Just take the fabric
and open it up. Take one selvedge and fold it so it is even with itself.
Fold again, this gives you a 4 layer piece roughly 18" (if you are
starting with a 2 yard piece) by the width of the fabric. Shake it to
make sure the folds are straight. IF you have room to cut the 18" lay it
down on your mat. If not, make one more fold, so you have a 9" wide cut
to make. Make sure the folds are parallel by making sure that the bottom
(or top) fold is along a measurement line of the ruler. The other folds
should also be on a measurement line of the ruler (for example, if the
bottom fold is at 1", the top fold should be at 10" or 19". Or at least
straight along the line near there, like just below the 10" line, or at
the 19 1/8" line.) . Cut perpendicular to the fold. I usually cut the
first border the border width plus an inch, and then turn it around to
trim the selvedge off. But I check every time to make sure my folds are
all parallel before I cut. (I am only making 4 cuts so that is not a real
problem.)

Good luck,
Pati, in Phx

In article ,
"Kathy Applebaum" wrote:

"Charlotte Hippen" wrote in message
news:88MPd.36412$C24.5912@attbi_s52...

Now for my binding question: The 2 yds. for the outer border are also for
the binding. The instructions say to cut the binding just as you do the
border. I was told in my beginning class that you should do the binding
on the bias. How may of you do your bindings on the bias? This quilt is
not a wall hanging so the binding will get some wear. Will I regret not
doing it on the bias in a couple of years due to it wearing out? My mom
says she rarely does it on the bias and hasn't had one wear out, but hers
don't get used that much and are washed even less.

I do all my bindings on the bias, but NOT for wear reasons. I have a quilt
from about 1870 with straight grain binding that has been washed a billion
times, and the binding is not wearing any faster than the original quilt.
(And I'm quite certain the binding is original).

So, you may ask, why am I doing bias binding? I find my quilts end up
flatter that way. For some reason, no matter how carefully I measure, pin,
and sew, I always seem to introduce a ripple when I use straight grain
binding. Obviously it's something I'm doing wrong, but I can't seem to track
it down. (And yes, it IRRITATES me! LOL)

And since I use the parallelogram trick for making bias binding, I find
there's no more waste than with straight grain binding. So I go with what
works for me. YMMV.

And to chime in with Kathy, I have found that binding cut on the
lengthwise grain is the most fiddly of all. I have seen so many quilts
that were beautifully flat until that binding was put on and then it
rippled all over the place. One quilt shop owner told me that in order
to get her quilt to lie flat that she picked out all the binding and
when she re-sewed it on pulled it really hard as she sewed it onto the
quilt. Took her a couple trys to get it right.

Usually I do binding on the widthwise grain (cut selvedge to selvedge)
unless I want the pattern to look different then I do bias.

marcella