Saving my pipes - setting up a home studio

In article .com,
steve writes
i don't have running water in my workshop - but a garden hose outside a
ways.

i use just water buckets. which works very well for throwing & minimal
wash up.

for glazing i rinse off at the garden hose (by the flowers, not the
veggies).

meanwhile i suspose a dedicated bucket for rinsing off glaze might
accidently be creating a cool glaze?

I tried that; it produced a rather unfortunate Brown!

Steve
Bath
UK


just a thought.

see ya

steve

--
Steve Mills
Bath
UK

next time add ash!

see ya

steve



Steve Mills wrote:
In article .com,
steve writes
i don't have running water in my workshop - but a garden hose
outside a
ways.

i use just water buckets. which works very well for throwing &
minimal
wash up.

for glazing i rinse off at the garden hose (by the flowers, not the
veggies).

meanwhile i suspose a dedicated bucket for rinsing off glaze might
accidently be creating a cool glaze?

I tried that; it produced a rather unfortunate Brown!

Steve
Bath
UK


just a thought.

see ya

steve

--
Steve Mills
Bath
UK

What is ash going to do to the firing range and how much would you add? 5%
addition of ash seems to increase the fluxes by about 3% (decreasing the
ratio of Si and Al). I would hate to waste the Cobalt but could you get a
usable black... nahhh - could never bring myself to do that.

wrote in message
oups.com...
next time add ash!

see ya

steve



Steve Mills wrote:
In article .com,
steve writes
i don't have running water in my workshop - but a garden hose
outside a
ways.

i use just water buckets. which works very well for throwing &
minimal
wash up.

for glazing i rinse off at the garden hose (by the flowers, not the
veggies).

meanwhile i suspose a dedicated bucket for rinsing off glaze might
accidently be creating a cool glaze?

I tried that; it produced a rather unfortunate Brown!

Steve
Bath
UK


just a thought.

see ya

steve

--
Steve Mills
Bath
UK

ash certainly runs like crazy at cone 10 or there-abouts, but my point
is it adds a texture or visual interest to the glaze. i've messed
around with 100% ash on cone 10 pieces, making sure to not put much on
for the lower portion of vases. inside bowls is great. eventually i
just use 50-50 ash & porcelain & then add some colorants. i don't
bother measuring, but will someday. in the begining i didn't bother
washing the ash. after a while i "washed" the ash once i even heard of
doing it. now i seem to just leave a bucket of ash outside for a long
time & it gets rainwater & dries up so i guess it self cleans...

mason stains are a cheap easy way to add color. and aside from the
pottery suppliers mason stains can be bought thru cement manufacturing
sites.

i just figure a blah glaze might be saved with some ash - maybe even
50% ash with the blah glaze.

see ya

steve


dkat wrote:
What is ash going to do to the firing range and how much would you
add? 5%
addition of ash seems to increase the fluxes by about 3% (decreasing
the
ratio of Si and Al). I would hate to waste the Cobalt but could you
get a
usable black... nahhh - could never bring myself to do that.

wrote in message
oups.com...
next time add ash!

see ya

steve



Steve Mills wrote:
In article
.com,
steve writes
i don't have running water in my workshop - but a garden hose
outside a
ways.

i use just water buckets. which works very well for throwing &
minimal
wash up.

for glazing i rinse off at the garden hose (by the flowers, not
the
veggies).

meanwhile i suspose a dedicated bucket for rinsing off glaze
might
accidently be creating a cool glaze?

I tried that; it produced a rather unfortunate Brown!

Steve
Bath
UK


just a thought.

see ya

steve

--
Steve Mills
Bath
UK

wrote in message
oups.com...
ash certainly runs like crazy at cone 10 or there-abouts, but my point
is it adds a texture or visual interest to the glaze. i've messed
around with 100% ash on cone 10 pieces, making sure to not put much on
for the lower portion of vases. inside bowls is great. eventually i
just use 50-50 ash & porcelain & then add some colorants. i don't
bother measuring, but will someday. in the begining i didn't bother
washing the ash. after a while i "washed" the ash once i even heard of
doing it. now i seem to just leave a bucket of ash outside for a long
time & it gets rainwater & dries up so i guess it self cleans...

mason stains are a cheap easy way to add color. and aside from the
pottery suppliers mason stains can be bought thru cement manufacturing
sites.

i just figure a blah glaze might be saved with some ash - maybe even
50% ash with the blah glaze.

I know ash does beautiful things in a reduction cone 8 firing. I'm doing
oxidation cone 6 so I was concerned with both the running and the effects
you would get in that atmosphere and range. I suppose the safe way is to
just do the inside of a bowl to see results... couldn't hurt and it
certainly is nice to be able to not have to throw out anything that can be
used. Have you ever heard of using charcoal ash?

i've done combinations with fireplace wood ash & bar-b-q ash. i don't
know which component is responsible, but i got a marble stone affect.
that *patchwork* of higher & lower tones within the same basic glaze.

see ya

steve



DKat wrote:
wrote in message
oups.com...
ash certainly runs like crazy at cone 10 or there-abouts, but my
point
is it adds a texture or visual interest to the glaze. i've messed
around with 100% ash on cone 10 pieces, making sure to not put much
on
for the lower portion of vases. inside bowls is great. eventually
i
just use 50-50 ash & porcelain & then add some colorants. i don't
bother measuring, but will someday. in the begining i didn't
bother
washing the ash. after a while i "washed" the ash once i even
heard of
doing it. now i seem to just leave a bucket of ash outside for a
long
time & it gets rainwater & dries up so i guess it self cleans...

mason stains are a cheap easy way to add color. and aside from the
pottery suppliers mason stains can be bought thru cement
manufacturing
sites.

i just figure a blah glaze might be saved with some ash - maybe
even
50% ash with the blah glaze.

I know ash does beautiful things in a reduction cone 8 firing. I'm
doing
oxidation cone 6 so I was concerned with both the running and the
effects
you would get in that atmosphere and range. I suppose the safe way
is to
just do the inside of a bowl to see results... couldn't hurt and it
certainly is nice to be able to not have to throw out anything that
can be
used. Have you ever heard of using charcoal ash?

On Thu, 31 Mar 2005 21:16:28 -0500, "dkat" wrote:

What is ash going to do to the firing range and how much would you add? 5%
addition of ash seems to increase the fluxes by about 3% (decreasing the
ratio of Si and Al). I would hate to waste the Cobalt but could you get a
usable black... nahhh - could never bring myself to do that.


Lately I've been using native clay from my garden as a glaze.
It's a nice warm chocolate/Albany/bean pot brown, but a
little ash bleaches it out to light ochre. I say "bleaching"
because that's really what it seems like. If I dip the piece
in the plain slip and then brush on a thin streak of the
slip+ash blend, the thin streak seems to turn the brown
base lighter as opposed to covering it. Since I am starting
with liquid slip from the garden clay, I can't report the
exact weight percent of ash to (dry) clay, but I estimate
around 25%. (Most recommendations say to start with
50-50 and go from there.)

Best regards,


Bob Masta
dqatechATdaqartaDOTcom

D A Q A R T A
Data AcQuisition And Real-Time Analysis
www.daqarta.com

"Bob Masta" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 31 Mar 2005 21:16:28 -0500, "dkat" wrote:

What is ash going to do to the firing range and how much would you add?
5%
addition of ash seems to increase the fluxes by about 3% (decreasing the
ratio of Si and Al). I would hate to waste the Cobalt but could you get
a
usable black... nahhh - could never bring myself to do that.


Lately I've been using native clay from my garden as a glaze.
It's a nice warm chocolate/Albany/bean pot brown, but a
little ash bleaches it out to light ochre. I say "bleaching"
because that's really what it seems like. If I dip the piece
in the plain slip and then brush on a thin streak of the
slip+ash blend, the thin streak seems to turn the brown
base lighter as opposed to covering it. Since I am starting
with liquid slip from the garden clay, I can't report the
exact weight percent of ash to (dry) clay, but I estimate
around 25%. (Most recommendations say to start with
50-50 and go from there.)

Best regards,


Bob Masta
dqatechATdaqartaDOTcom

D A Q A R T A
Data AcQuisition And Real-Time Analysis
www.daqarta.com

That sounds so lovely. I really do miss Albany slip and reduction firing at
times. I think Long Island is one big sandbar. I have yet to find clay in
my digging... I wonder how my S.O. would feel about bringing back dug clay
from our trips if I swore off loading the car with rocks?

On Sat, 2 Apr 2005 12:39:55 -0500, "dkat" wrote:

That sounds so lovely. I really do miss Albany slip and reduction firing at
times. I think Long Island is one big sandbar. I have yet to find clay in
my digging... I wonder how my S.O. would feel about bringing back dug clay
from our trips if I swore off loading the car with rocks?


I'm not doing reduction, just typical ^6 oxidation. I originally
thought to use the clay for handbuilding. It was full of lime bits
that needed to be sieved out, so it was very time consuming.
But when used as a glaze, those hours of effort last a lot
longer than when used as a body clay... ;-)

I think the idea of bring back clay from trips is excellent.
You could make your own souvenir pots, glazed with the
actual place you visited! You'll need to get enough to
allow some test runs, and I suppose you might need to
be prepared to add some fluxes to get the clay to melt.
(I just got lucky with mine.)

In fact, I've been thinking about making glazes using the
marl from the lake at my wife's family cottage to replace whiting.
I'm thinking this may be a way to make family gifts with
sentimental value. Probably a lot of local materials could be worked
into glazes like this. Just a thought.

Best regards,





Bob Masta
dqatechATdaqartaDOTcom

D A Q A R T A
Data AcQuisition And Real-Time Analysis
www.daqarta.com

"Bob Masta" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 2 Apr 2005 12:39:55 -0500, "dkat" wrote:

That sounds so lovely. I really do miss Albany slip and reduction firing
at
times. I think Long Island is one big sandbar. I have yet to find clay
in
my digging... I wonder how my S.O. would feel about bringing back dug
clay
from our trips if I swore off loading the car with rocks?


I'm not doing reduction, just typical ^6 oxidation. I originally
thought to use the clay for handbuilding. It was full of lime bits
that needed to be sieved out, so it was very time consuming.
But when used as a glaze, those hours of effort last a lot
longer than when used as a body clay... ;-)

I think the idea of bring back clay from trips is excellent.
You could make your own souvenir pots, glazed with the
actual place you visited! You'll need to get enough to
allow some test runs, and I suppose you might need to
be prepared to add some fluxes to get the clay to melt.
(I just got lucky with mine.)

In fact, I've been thinking about making glazes using the
marl from the lake at my wife's family cottage to replace whiting.
I'm thinking this may be a way to make family gifts with
sentimental value. Probably a lot of local materials could be worked
into glazes like this. Just a thought.
Best regards,
Bob Masta
dqatechATdaqartaDOTcom
D A Q A R T A
Data AcQuisition And Real-Time Analysis
www.daqarta.com

Well this is certainly inspiring. What I love about pottery is all of the
dimensions and the potentials for adventure. If you ever get bored with one
aspect there is always another to delve into. Thanks for sharing!