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#1
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Knitting a flat circle - the math?
I want to knit a flat circle (about 10" across) and not use short rows. I've
looked at a couple of dishcloth and doily patterns and am trying to figure out the math used to get it flat. All the ones I've seen have you start in the middle with a few stitches on DPN. I'd rather start on the outside using a circular and then graduate to DPNs as you get closer to the center. (I know, I just HAVE to be difficult!) I just think it would be easier. I know you must decrease with each round, but by how much? If I start with, say 100 sts on a circular, is there a formula I should use to know when to decrease - Knit 2 together every X stitches? Any insight appreciated! Abi |
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#2
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On Thu, 10 Mar 2005 13:25:51 -0500, Gallagher babbled something about:
mercilessly snipped I know you must decrease with each round, but by how much? If I start with, say 100 sts on a circular, is there a formula I should use to know when to decrease - Knit 2 together every X stitches? Abi I just *know* that either Sonya or Wooly are going to beat me to the answer while I do the math.... but if they don't... I'll get back to ya, Abi! (Personally, *I'd* start in the middle....) Hugs, Noreen -- ~ change n e t to c o m to email me ~ \or\ ~ Strip "tease" to email me ~ |
#3
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You'll end up on DPNs either way...
Working from the outside in you should treat it like the crown of a tam, which, IIRC, uses double decreases (s2kw, k1, p2sso) every other round at 8 points. Its easier to work from the inside to the outer edge, imo. On Thu, 10 Mar 2005 13:25:51 -0500, "Gallagher" spewed forth : I want to knit a flat circle (about 10" across) and not use short rows. I've looked at a couple of dishcloth and doily patterns and am trying to figure out the math used to get it flat. All the ones I've seen have you start in the middle with a few stitches on DPN. I'd rather start on the outside using a circular and then graduate to DPNs as you get closer to the center. (I know, I just HAVE to be difficult!) I just think it would be easier. I know you must decrease with each round, but by how much? If I start with, say 100 sts on a circular, is there a formula I should use to know when to decrease - Knit 2 together every X stitches? Any insight appreciated! Abi |
#4
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In article , "Gallagher"
wrote: I want to knit a flat circle (about 10" across) and not use short rows. I've looked at a couple of dishcloth and doily patterns and am trying to figure out the math used to get it flat. All the ones I've seen have you start in the middle with a few stitches on DPN. I'd rather start on the outside using a circular and then graduate to DPNs as you get closer to the center. (I know, I just HAVE to be difficult!) I just think it would be easier. I know you must decrease with each round, but by how much? If I start with, say 100 sts on a circular, is there a formula I should use to know when to decrease - Knit 2 together every X stitches? Any insight appreciated! Abi I knitted a square from the inside out, for one of the 6x6 exhanges. It became a star, and no matter how hard I tried doing it from the inside out, still the four edges would bow in to the center. I then took the pattern and started at the outside on indeed double pointed needles, I used 5 I think. The square became nice and flat with straight edges. I could see right away if it was going to lay flat or not, and added or decreased the stitches on the four corners. Maybe it would work for a circle as well. Sample and see if it works. I got my pattern from the Readers Digest complete guide to needlework Els -- hate spam not welcome |
#5
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Abi i feel with you that starting on the outside is better for ME ,
Try and find a pattern that works regulary from the middle outwards and do it the other way ,, strat by the maximum end number of stiches ....You might need 2 circulars ,,,i will think about this and see waht i can work out . mirjam |
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Thanks for all the advice, folks!
I was hoping to start from the outside of my disc and work in because my arthritis somes makes starting a small circumference on DPN difficult. I have used the two circular method, and may try that, then graduate to DPN after a few rows, then to circulars as the circle expands. What I want to avoid is doing a large octagon. I'd like this circle to be, well, a circle - no points. If I ever master the "perfect circle" I'll post my findings. Abi |
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#8
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Well, I am humbled! More info than my little brain can process.
At knittersreview.com, I found a bit of more simplified information - "To knit a circle---any circle for any reason--- all you have to do is have 8 increases/decreases every other row. You can space them anyway you wish as long as they average 4 per row. For example, 8 every other row, 16 every fourth row, etc. " So, once I try it, I'll post my results. Thanks to all, Abi |
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On Fri, 11 Mar 2005 10:02:05 -0500, "Gallagher"
wrote: Thanks for all the advice, folks! I was hoping to start from the outside of my disc and work in because my arthritis somes makes starting a small circumference on DPN difficult. I have used the two circular method, and may try that, then graduate to DPN after a few rows, then to circulars as the circle expands. What I want to avoid is doing a large octagon. I'd like this circle to be, well, a circle - no points. If I ever master the "perfect circle" I'll post my findings. Another thing you can do is crochet the first few rounds, if you know how to crochet, and then pick up the crochet stitches onto DPNs. -- Barbara Vaughan My email address is my first initial followed by my last name at libero dot it. |
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