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#1
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thin clay...
Hi there!
I introduced myself yesterday and I now have a question. I like to make very thin pieces from polymer clay but I'm finding that they don't harden enough, they stay very flexible. This is the case for all clays that I've used i.e. Premo, Fimo, Sculpey III etc.. Anyone found a way to harden them? Thanks -- Amanda http://www.picturetrail.com/amandarose1 |
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#2
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They need an armature if you dont want the flexiblity.
Diana -- http://photos.yahoo.com/lunamom44 "Bead Sprite" wrote in message ... Hi there! I introduced myself yesterday and I now have a question. I like to make very thin pieces from polymer clay but I'm finding that they don't harden enough, they stay very flexible. This is the case for all clays that I've used i.e. Premo, Fimo, Sculpey III etc.. Anyone found a way to harden them? Thanks -- Amanda http://www.picturetrail.com/amandarose1 |
#3
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Hi Amanda,
Unfortunately, flexibility in thin areas is a characteristic of all polymer clays (much less so with the Sculpeys though, so I'm surprised you didn't find that better... Sculpey does give up strength for its stiffness though). If you want to make something stiffer, you can use an armature inside as has been mentioned (cardstock to metal, e.g.), add a backing sheet of clay, or coat with liquid clay and rebake. Baking longer might help a *bit.* Those should all help, though I don't know if that will be enough for what you want. What kind of thing are you making where it becomes a problem? Diane B. http://glassattic.com --polymer clay "encyclopedia" E-mail: (don't use AOL address) |
#4
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Thanks very much for the advice! Well, I make jewellery and want to make
some leaves that will be all clustered together and, well, I don't mind them being flexible myself, I just thought that it might not be acceptable to sell them like that. If they're just a strong though, then I guess it would be alright to leave them as they are (or 'leaf 'them as they are) Actually, maybe you can help with another question that I asked over in rec.crafts.beads? As I say, I want to string all the leaves together so that they look like they're growing and are all clustered together, kind of on a vine, like ivy. I'm wondering how best to do this as I've not done a great deal of bead weaving. I've pierced the holes through the stems horizontally, if that helps. Many thanks -- Amanda http://www.picturetrail.com/amandarose1 "DianeGlassAttic" wrote in message ... Hi Amanda, Unfortunately, flexibility in thin areas is a characteristic of all polymer clays (much less so with the Sculpeys though, so I'm surprised you didn't find that better... Sculpey does give up strength for its stiffness though). If you want to make something stiffer, you can use an armature inside as has been mentioned (cardstock to metal, e.g.), add a backing sheet of clay, or coat with liquid clay and rebake. Baking longer might help a *bit.* Those should all help, though I don't know if that will be enough for what you want. What kind of thing are you making where it becomes a problem? Diane B. http://glassattic.com --polymer clay "encyclopedia" E-mail: (don't use AOL address) |
#5
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Amanda,
I have a leaf necklace at: http://www.scpcg.org/gallery.htm that uses a branch fringe technique. Is that something like what you were thinking of? Diane Villano "Bead Sprite" wrote in message ... snip Actually, maybe you can help with another question that I asked over in rec.crafts.beads? As I say, I want to string all the leaves together so that they look like they're growing and are all clustered together, kind of on a vine, like ivy. I'm wondering how best to do this as I've not done a great deal of bead weaving. I've pierced the holes through the stems horizontally, if that helps. Many thanks -- Amanda http://www.picturetrail.com/amandarose1 |
#6
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Amanda, you can make a sandwich of polymer clay using another clay called
Magic Sculp, which is an epoxy mix. The Magic Sculp dries in a couple of hours without having to bake, but can go in the over first. I have tried to work as follows: 1) Create a underlying surface with Magic Sculp, making it as thin as possible. Let air dry for a day. 2) Next day, add other details with polymer clay and bake the whole thing together. Now, I'm sure you will aks me: why don't I make the entire thing with Magic Sculp: because although it is very sturdy and almost unbreakable when used a little thicker, when used thinly it can be brittle, so the polymer clay makes it so that it cannot be broken. Also because the texture quality of the polymer clay is much nicer to work with finer details and ornamentation. -- Eni ----------------- http://www.oken3d.com |
#7
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That's really helpful, Eni! Many thanks indeed for letting me know as I
never hearl of Magic Sculp before and it sounds like just what I need! I live in the UK, so it may not be available over here. Do you know of any stockists online? Thanks again! -- Amanda http://www.picturetrail.com/amandarose1 "Eni Oken" wrote in message ... Amanda, you can make a sandwich of polymer clay using another clay called Magic Sculp, which is an epoxy mix. The Magic Sculp dries in a couple of hours without having to bake, but can go in the over first. I have tried to work as follows: 1) Create a underlying surface with Magic Sculp, making it as thin as possible. Let air dry for a day. 2) Next day, add other details with polymer clay and bake the whole thing together. Now, I'm sure you will aks me: why don't I make the entire thing with Magic Sculp: because although it is very sturdy and almost unbreakable when used a little thicker, when used thinly it can be brittle, so the polymer clay makes it so that it cannot be broken. Also because the texture quality of the polymer clay is much nicer to work with finer details and ornamentation. -- Eni ----------------- http://www.oken3d.com |
#8
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Milliput, a UK product, is similar to Magic Sculpt. Another epoxy clay
or sculpting compound is Aves Epoxy Sculpt. For best results in achieving a thin sheet with all of these products, knead thoroughly and let it rest for an hour. Roll in-between sheets of waxed paper that's been coated with vaseline and let rest again. Just before it cures or sets (about 2 hours from first mixing) you should be ready to shape it. Polymer clay will adhere, but best adhesion occurs before the epoxy completely cures. You can freeze mixed epoxy for up to 3 days to extend the working time. You can also mix it, once kneaded, with polymer clay. I like a blend of 2/3rds epoxy to 1/3 polymer (Fimo seems to work best) for a medium that's easier to use, though not as strong, and has a working time of about 5 hours before it sets up. Hope this helps, Katherine Dewey Bead Sprite wrote: That's really helpful, Eni! Many thanks indeed for letting me know as I never hearl of Magic Sculp before and it sounds like just what I need! I live in the UK, so it may not be available over here. Do you know of any stockists online? Thanks again! -- Amanda http://www.picturetrail.com/amandarose1 "Eni Oken" wrote in message ... Amanda, you can make a sandwich of polymer clay using another clay called Magic Sculp, which is an epoxy mix. The Magic Sculp dries in a couple of hours without having to bake, but can go in the over first. I have tried to work as follows: 1) Create a underlying surface with Magic Sculp, making it as thin as possible. Let air dry for a day. 2) Next day, add other details with polymer clay and bake the whole thing together. Now, I'm sure you will aks me: why don't I make the entire thing with Magic Sculp: because although it is very sturdy and almost unbreakable when used a little thicker, when used thinly it can be brittle, so the polymer clay makes it so that it cannot be broken. Also because the texture quality of the polymer clay is much nicer to work with finer details and ornamentation. -- Eni ----------------- http://www.oken3d.com |
#9
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O! This only just showed up on my server, so sorry for delayed response!
Many many thanks for the great advice, I really appreciate it! Take care! -- Amanda http://www/picturetrail.com/amandarose1 Replace 'nocrap' with 'hotmail' to reply "Katherine Dewey" wrote in message ... Milliput, a UK product, is similar to Magic Sculpt. Another epoxy clay or sculpting compound is Aves Epoxy Sculpt. For best results in achieving a thin sheet with all of these products, knead thoroughly and let it rest for an hour. Roll in-between sheets of waxed paper that's been coated with vaseline and let rest again. Just before it cures or sets (about 2 hours from first mixing) you should be ready to shape it. Polymer clay will adhere, but best adhesion occurs before the epoxy completely cures. You can freeze mixed epoxy for up to 3 days to extend the working time. You can also mix it, once kneaded, with polymer clay. I like a blend of 2/3rds epoxy to 1/3 polymer (Fimo seems to work best) for a medium that's easier to use, though not as strong, and has a working time of about 5 hours before it sets up. Hope this helps, Katherine Dewey Bead Sprite wrote: That's really helpful, Eni! Many thanks indeed for letting me know as I never hearl of Magic Sculp before and it sounds like just what I need! I live in the UK, so it may not be available over here. Do you know of any stockists online? Thanks again! -- Amanda http://www.picturetrail.com/amandarose1 "Eni Oken" wrote in message ... Amanda, you can make a sandwich of polymer clay using another clay called Magic Sculp, which is an epoxy mix. The Magic Sculp dries in a couple of hours without having to bake, but can go in the over first. I have tried to work as follows: 1) Create a underlying surface with Magic Sculp, making it as thin as possible. Let air dry for a day. 2) Next day, add other details with polymer clay and bake the whole thing together. Now, I'm sure you will aks me: why don't I make the entire thing with Magic Sculp: because although it is very sturdy and almost unbreakable when used a little thicker, when used thinly it can be brittle, so the polymer clay makes it so that it cannot be broken. Also because the texture quality of the polymer clay is much nicer to work with finer details and ornamentation. -- Eni ----------------- http://www.oken3d.com |
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