ARGH! Need help on a gusset or four

I'm hoping someone will be able to point me in the right direction on
this. I'm making a "traditional Chinese" top for tai chi. I'm
working off of one of my teacher's tops--which I'm not allowed to take
apart, blast it. Anyhow, the whole body of the garment--front, back
and sleeves down the the elbow--is one piece of fabric. There's a
pair of curved gussets at each armpit. I can see how to do gussets
where two seams meet, but am having difficulty in figuring out how to
do them just along a single seam. I'm not entirely sure they're
needed, as it's a pretty loose top to start with. I did manage to get
one of the gussets sewn, but it's all puckered at the point, even
after some judicious trimming. Is there some trick to it or do I just
need to try and try again (that's why I'm working muslin!).

Sue

S wrote:
I'm hoping someone will be able to point me in the right
direction on this. I'm making a "traditional Chinese" top for
tai chi. I'm working off of one of my teacher's tops--which
I'm not allowed to take apart, blast it. Anyhow, the whole
body of the garment--front, back and sleeves down the the
elbow--is one piece of fabric. There's a pair of curved
gussets at each armpit. I can see how to do gussets where two
seams meet, but am having difficulty in figuring out how to do
them just along a single seam. I'm not entirely sure they're
needed, as it's a pretty loose top to start with. I did manage
to get one of the gussets sewn, but it's all puckered at the
point, even after some judicious trimming. Is there some trick
to it or do I just need to try and try again (that's why I'm
working muslin!).

This is a bit difficult to describe without pictures, but I'll give it
a try.
1. stitch a line of reinforcing stitches within the seam allowance on
the piece which will have the gusset inserted *into* it. That is,
stitch to the point, pivot and stitch back out to the edge.
2. slash the seam allowance *carefully* just to the point BUT NOT
THROUGH THE LINE OF STITCHING.
3. place the gusset and the body piece (for lack of a better term)
right sides together, lining up the seam allowance on each and
matching the *slashed point* with the dot (or whatever mark you have
made in the gusset) and pinning (or basting) ONLY ONE HALF OF THE
SEAM, right up to the slashed point.
4. begin stitching the seam allowance BODY SIDE UPPER MOST, GUSSET
PIECE AT THE BOTTOM.
5. when you reach the *point* leave the needle down, raise the presser
foot, and pivot the gusset about 90 degrees, and pivot the body piece
further around to match the new seam allowance on the second side,
being very careful everything is smooth and excess fabric is out of
the seam allowance..
6. complete the second half of the seam.

Hope that helps, I know it sounds weird, but leaving the second half
of the seam unpinned/unbasted allows you to pivot the pieces with the
needle down right at the corner, making for a smooth seam all the way.

If you can't visualize this, I'll try to get some pictures of the
process and put them on the web.

Beverly

Dear Sue,

I have made martial arts garments for my son. I imagine they are made
in a similar way to your Tai Chi garments. The gusset is a large
square. Half of the square is sewn to the front body and front sleeve;
the other two raw edges are sewn to the back body and sleeve. The
folded center forms the diagonal underarm edge. This is a very old
method in both the East and the West, and served for hundreds of years
for shirts and chemises.

Teri

Hope that helps, I know it sounds weird, but leaving the second half
of the seam unpinned/unbasted allows you to pivot the pieces with the
needle down right at the corner, making for a smooth seam all the way.

If you can't visualize this, I'll try to get some pictures of the
process and put them on the web.

I *think* that makes sense. I've cut out several pieces that are just
the armpit with its little wedge-shaped hole for the gusset and, of
course, a similar number of gussets. I shall give your directions a
try and keep my fingers crossed! I think you're saying basically the
same thing my grandmother was, but a lot more clearly (or maybe it's
because it's written down).

Thank you! I'll let you know if I get it to work!

Sue

Teri,

I have made martial arts garments for my son. I imagine they are made
in a similar way to your Tai Chi garments. The gusset is a large
square. Half of the square is sewn to the front body and front sleeve;
the other two raw edges are sewn to the back body and sleeve. The
folded center forms the diagonal underarm edge. This is a very old
method in both the East and the West, and served for hundreds of years
for shirts and chemises.

*nod* I found instructions for this on the web--an SCA member's site,
I think. Unfortunately this is not the way these gussets work; they
are actually going into wedge-shaped holes in the armpit area (which I
think I forgot to put in my original post). Though if I am not able
to make the others work before I start beating my head against the
wall...I may try this way instead.

Thank you!

Sue

Dear Sue,

I've done this type of gusset, too. It was popular in tailored
garments in the 1950s (I'm old). The most important part of this type
of gusset is to stay-stitch it exactly on the stitching line before
slashing. It helps to draw the stitching line on the gusset;
otherwise, it won't fit when you try to sew it in. One usually doesn't
want to begin sewing in the corner of a box, but in this case, it may
be easier to do so.

If this doesn't work, there is another way to get it perfect. Cut a
double set of gussets--one for inside, one for outside. Press in the
seam allowances, and stitch it by hand into place. Use the second set
of gussets to sew to the inside. This will hide all the raw edges.
Good Luck!

Teri

"S" wrote in message
...

I *think* that makes sense. I've cut out several pieces that are
just
the armpit with its little wedge-shaped hole for the gusset and, of
course, a similar number of gussets. I shall give your directions a
try and keep my fingers crossed! I think you're saying basically
the
same thing my grandmother was, but a lot more clearly (or maybe it's
because it's written down).

Thank you! I'll let you know if I get it to work!

I hope it does help. I finally developed this technique after *years*
of frustration with gussets and other types of insertions. Just call
out if you want some pictures.

Beverly

Thanks to you both! I did the stay-stitching, which enabled me to cut
*right* up to the corner, and things smoothed out nicely. I'm still
not sure they're needed, but it doesn't matter so much now that I can
do them acceptably.

Sue

S wrote:
Thanks to you both! I did the stay-stitching, which enabled me
to cut *right* up to the corner, and things smoothed out
nicely. I'm still not sure they're needed, but it doesn't
matter so much now that I can do them acceptably.

Sue

Congratulations! One always needs to master new sewing
skills/techniques. You will almost surely use it *sometime*. ;-)

Beverly